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Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock
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majid_sabet


Nov 8, 2010, 9:01 AM
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Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock
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Any more detail ?

The Riverside Mountan Rescue Unit reported around 8:45 p.m. Sunday that it will start a mission to rescue a climber on Tahquitz Rock above Idyllwild

http://www.mydesert.com/...uck-on-Tahquitz-Rock


ianmeister89


Nov 8, 2010, 1:22 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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I'm interested to see what's going on here... Hope all turns out well.


snoopy138


Nov 8, 2010, 2:30 PM
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Re: [ianmeister89] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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http://www.kpsplocal2.com/...5tkOyy1g6jHzm8w.cspx

no info on how they got stuck, though.


jt512


Nov 10, 2010, 1:59 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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Here is the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit's report on the rescue. An interesting read, but still no explanation of how the climbers became stranded.

Jay


Partner robdotcalm


Nov 10, 2010, 2:44 PM
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Re: [jt512] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Here is the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit's report on the rescue. An interesting read, but still no explanation of how the climbers became stranded.

Jay

Very curious as the route is 5.1 and the climbers were in good shape having no problem climbing out with a toprope. I hope the climbers write up what happened. Kudos to the rescue team.

r.c


erisspirit


Nov 10, 2010, 3:07 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Here is the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit's report on the rescue. An interesting read, but still no explanation of how the climbers became stranded.

Jay

Very curious as the route is 5.1 and the climbers were in good shape having no problem climbing out with a toprope. I hope the climbers write up what happened. Kudos to the rescue team.

r.c

and usually the last pitch is pretty low key. I'm pretty curious as to what happened too.


jt512


Nov 10, 2010, 3:17 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Here is the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit's report on the rescue. An interesting read, but still no explanation of how the climbers became stranded.

Jay

Very curious as the route is 5.1 and the climbers were in good shape having no problem climbing out with a toprope. I hope the climbers write up what happened. Kudos to the rescue team.

r.c

FWIW, the route, White Maiden's Walkaway, is rated 5.4 in the guidebook.

Jay


snoopy138


Nov 10, 2010, 3:24 PM
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Re: [erisspirit] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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erisspirit wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Here is the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit's report on the rescue. An interesting read, but still no explanation of how the climbers became stranded.

Jay

Very curious as the route is 5.1 and the climbers were in good shape having no problem climbing out with a toprope. I hope the climbers write up what happened. Kudos to the rescue team.

r.c

and usually the last pitch is pretty low key. I'm pretty curious as to what happened too.

on White Maiden's, for the first time? I'd guess they were off route somewhere.


snoopy138


Nov 10, 2010, 3:25 PM
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Re: [jt512] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Here is the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit's report on the rescue. An interesting read, but still no explanation of how the climbers became stranded.

Jay

Very curious as the route is 5.1 and the climbers were in good shape having no problem climbing out with a toprope. I hope the climbers write up what happened. Kudos to the rescue team.

r.c

FWIW, the route, White Maiden's Walkaway, is rated 5.4 in the guidebook.

Jay

I'd assume Rob is using the traditional rating from all of the Wilts guidebooks.


Partner robdotcalm


Nov 10, 2010, 4:28 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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"snoopy138 wrote:
I'd assume Rob is using the traditional rating from all of the Wilts guidebooks.

Vogel and Gaines, p.52, rating is 5.1. More for what it's worth stuff: " wouldn't recommend this route to slow parties starting late or new leaders - it takes more route finding, has tougher moves and more difficult pro placements than many other higher grade routes at Tahquitz." From Mt. Project.

No doubt, when you get off route things can off get more difficult. However, without hearing from the climbers, this is speculation.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


jt512


Nov 10, 2010, 4:34 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
"snoopy138 wrote:
I'd assume Rob is using the traditional rating from all of the Wilts guidebooks.

Vogel and Gaines, p.52, rating is 5.1.

It's 5.4 in the 3rd edition.

Jay


Partner robdotcalm


Nov 10, 2010, 4:53 PM
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Re: [jt512] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
"snoopy138 wrote:
I'd assume Rob is using the traditional rating from all of the Wilts guidebooks.

Vogel and Gaines, p.52, rating is 5.1.

It's 5.4 in the 3rd edition.

Jay

Grade inflation!

Rob.calm


socalclimber


Nov 10, 2010, 5:07 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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Uhhhh... I did that route this summer with two friends of mine. We started at 1:00PM on a busy Saturday, and were on top by 3:00PM. Probably only placed about 3 pieces/pitch tops. Did the whole mess in 6 pitches.

People need to stay in the gym till they understand what multi-pitch actually means...

That route probably has about a half dozen different ways you can go. It is good old fashioned climbing. Nothing more, nothing less.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Nov 10, 2010, 7:55 PM)


climbingaggie03


Nov 10, 2010, 8:09 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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maybe they were free soloing and got lost or stuck? or maybe it got dark and they didn't have headlamps? it does sound strange to get stuck on a 5.4, seems like they should have know how to get themselves out of trouble. Hopefully they'll post somewhere and give us the rest of the story.


socalclimber


Nov 10, 2010, 8:19 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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climbingaggie03 wrote:
maybe they were free soloing and got lost or stuck? or maybe it got dark and they didn't have headlamps? it does sound strange to get stuck on a 5.4, seems like they should have know how to get themselves out of trouble. Hopefully they'll post somewhere and give us the rest of the story.

If they were free soloing this wouldn't have happened I promise you. They were clueless, and had no business getting on something multi pitch. I don't need to hear their "story" to know what happened here.


el_layclimber


Nov 10, 2010, 8:39 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
climbingaggie03 wrote:
maybe they were free soloing and got lost or stuck? or maybe it got dark and they didn't have headlamps? it does sound strange to get stuck on a 5.4, seems like they should have know how to get themselves out of trouble. Hopefully they'll post somewhere and give us the rest of the story.

If they were free soloing this wouldn't have happened I promise you. They were clueless, and had no business getting on something multi pitch. I don't need to hear their "story" to know what happened here.

In defense of not finishing a 5.1 -5.4 (what's the difference there anyway?) route, there was a decent storm that came in Sunday night in LA. I don't know what it was like in Tahquitz, but between 2 and 5 pm temps dropped very fast in Los Angeles, and though it was clear around 8 pm in Santa Monica, it was raining very heavily by 2 am or so. This system may have come in faster and been more intense in the mountains.
Personally, I would bail or finish the route before getting yanked off by a handful of S&R guys but the weather on Sunday night in the area might help to explain what happened. http://www.weather.com/...ler/monthly/USCA0506


climbingaggie03


Nov 10, 2010, 8:55 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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http://www.kpsplocal2.com/...5tkOyy1g6jHzm8w.cspx

shows pictures of the climbers but doesn't give names, looks like a couple? they have harnesses, rain jackets, fleeces, and headlamps. So I have no idea why they needed SAR, maybe only one could lead and the leader lost their nerve with the rain, and thought it'd be too slick.


theguy


Nov 10, 2010, 9:20 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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climbingaggie03 wrote:
maybe they were free soloing

"trailing the subjectsí rope for use as a belay line"

el_layclimber wrote:
In defense of not finishing a 5.1 -5.4 (what's the difference there anyway?) route, there was a decent storm that came in Sunday night in LA. I don't know what it was like in Tahquitz,

"when the first text came out...the forecasted storm was just rolling in..."


erisspirit


Nov 10, 2010, 10:30 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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climbingaggie03 wrote:
maybe they were free soloing and got lost or stuck? or maybe it got dark and they didn't have headlamps? it does sound strange to get stuck on a 5.4, seems like they should have know how to get themselves out of trouble. Hopefully they'll post somewhere and give us the rest of the story.

BTW The report stated that the guys helping form the ground saw the groups headlamps, and also that the rescuers used the stranded groups rope during part of the rescue.


sp115


Nov 11, 2010, 8:05 AM
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I've never seen the route, and I'm not being critical of anyone involved, but why couldn't they rap-off from the location they were stuck at?


gmggg


Nov 11, 2010, 8:41 AM
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Re: [sp115] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
I've never seen the route, and I'm not being critical of anyone involved, but why couldn't they rap-off from the location they were stuck at?

And leave some nuts, slings, biners, and/or cams behind!?! Never!


billl7


Nov 11, 2010, 8:59 AM
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Re: [sp115] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
I've never seen the route, and I'm not being critical of anyone involved, but why couldn't they rap-off from the location they were stuck at?
Dropped rack? (edit: speculating)


(This post was edited by billl7 on Nov 11, 2010, 8:59 AM)


ClimbSoHigh


Nov 11, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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My hunch is a dropped rack or partially dropped rack. The report indicates that at the end "The subjects didnít have much on them so attention turned toward the team". If they had warm jackets and headlamps, it would seem like they were reasonably prepared fro the climb.

Other possiblities...

If only 1 could lead, he might have pulled a muscle, but that probably would have been told to SAR who indicated the climbers were uninjured. Maybee the leader was fatigued and had trouble thinking clearly with darkness and a storm on the horizon. Possibly they got in over their heads and the leader was too affraid to lead a traversing pitch, or the second was affraid of cleaning a traverse? Since the report indicates "Heads up, we have stuck climbers on Tahquitz rock, one pitch from the top. Not called out yet but get ready" indicates they might have doubted the correct path to follow so they called for guidance, (dropped topo?). Not knowing the area might be why dispatch assumed a rescue would be called shortly. Dispatch might have tried to talk them in the right direction but couldn't.

I could easily see a new climber reading about a multi pitch 5.1 climb and think, "I can do that no problem" after a handful of succesful single pitch leads. From what it sounds like, this climb was a bit sandbagged if the rating jumped 3 grades since it's first ascent.

Since they were on a 5.1-5.4 I would think they are very new to trad climbing, and probably only knew the basic climbing aspects and not the "what if" skills they needed. Bailing by headlamp in a storm might have turned ugly and possibly made this SAR into a body recovery. Obviously they were affraid to do anything (climb or rap) and if they had started to panic, I would think that calling SAR might have been a good choice for their situation. Best choice would have been to be better prepared, but that is 20/20 hindsight, which I would think these two now realize.

(Tons of assumptions)


sp115


Nov 12, 2010, 5:30 AM
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Re: [ClimbSoHigh] Rescue mission launched for climber stuck on Tahquitz Rock [In reply to]
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Hmm, lots of possibilities. Funny, but this thread has me wondering what it would take for me to call for a rescue if I was stuck somewhere.

So far (14 years of climbing) the thought has only occurred once. And the idea of calling for help was so instantaneously and overwhelmingly embarrassing that it immediately cleared my head and actually calmed me down.


billl7


Nov 12, 2010, 8:05 AM
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sp115 wrote:
So far (14 years of climbing) the thought has only occurred once. And the idea of calling for help was so instantaneously and overwhelmingly embarrassing that it immediately cleared my head and actually calmed me down.
Ego is a decidedly two-edged sword. But if it causes one to calm down and think clearly then no one can argue with that.

Bill L


majid_sabet


Nov 13, 2010, 11:17 PM
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some of the 4th class rocks can be as deadly as a high 5th class and recently a solo climber was killed in Yosemite on down climbing a 4th class. Do not let numbers fool you.


erisspirit


Nov 15, 2010, 1:12 PM
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According to
http://towncrierbreakingnews.blogspot.com/...itz-climbers-in.html
They got off route


ClimbClimb


Nov 27, 2010, 7:26 AM
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If you read the report, it's pretty clear what happened -- they got off route and into territory where they could neither lead up nor back down. They were reasonably well-equipped, headlamps, etc. The weather turned into 50 mph winds, rain and snow, with 25 ft visibility.

I don't know, I'm kinda thinking that calling for help may have been a wise choice, actually.


catbird_seat


Nov 28, 2010, 7:14 PM
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I love a happy ending. These two young climbers get to climb again, hopefully a little wiser.


puckeatr31


Nov 30, 2010, 6:44 AM
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I actualy know one of the SAR guys. The couple got off route. When the storm hit, their clothing got soaked and they were hypothermic. If not for a rescue it could have been very bad for them.


markc


Nov 30, 2010, 11:55 AM
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robdotcalm wrote:
jt512 wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
"snoopy138 wrote:
I'd assume Rob is using the traditional rating from all of the Wilts guidebooks.

Vogel and Gaines, p.52, rating is 5.1.

It's 5.4 in the 3rd edition.

Jay

Grade inflation!

Rob.calm

I love grade inflation. I've suddenly climbed harder without any additional effort on my part.


socalclimber


Nov 30, 2010, 12:44 PM
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markc wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
jt512 wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
"snoopy138 wrote:
I'd assume Rob is using the traditional rating from all of the Wilts guidebooks.

Vogel and Gaines, p.52, rating is 5.1.

It's 5.4 in the 3rd edition.

Jay

Grade inflation!

Rob.calm

I love grade inflation. I've suddenly climbed harder without any additional effort on my part.

Well, since I appear to be the only one who has actually climbed the route, I'll give you the real rating. It's rated 5.anything. What is needed for that one is solid route finding skills. I can definitely see inexperienced climbers getting off route and into trouble. There are a lot of different ways to go. When we did it, it ended up being around 5.6. We did the route in around 2 hours in 5 pitches.


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