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johnwesely


Dec 17, 2010, 8:36 AM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains.

Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c.



Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all.


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 9:07 AM
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Re: [ElectriChalk] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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ElectriChalk wrote:
Thank ya. But I'm not a sir...
*Cough*

Err, my bad...sorry about that... Wink


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 9:13 AM
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Re: [madscientist] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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madscientist wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

What if it's a 12+ though?

So.... I've almost sent a 13- before. Two moves from the top. If John wants to climb 12+, so be it!

Which 13-? The green one or the silver one?

Green, my strength is crimps, therefore it was more appealing to me :)


LostinMaine


Dec 17, 2010, 9:15 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains.

Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c.


Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all.

Arnot would say that you finally allowed yourself to reach your potential because you had no self-imposed stress of completing the route; you had given up on it for the day and did not expect to live up to your expectations. In doing so, you've exceeded you expectations. You are such a rock warrior and a role model to all of us.

Thank you, Austin, for bringing out the best in each of us.


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 9:23 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains.

Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c.

[image]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_XkYiJv2gjiQ/TGWcYn9U0PI/AAAAAAAAAnI/I-4kKXy7su8/s1600/IMG_3422.JPG[/image]

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all.

John, great job! That's amazing! I'm so glad for you that you were able to do it, and 13c, that's very impressive. To all those who thought you couldn't do it, you proved them wrong! I admire your determination and dedication, being able to stick to it and focus your mind completely on your goal. Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!


brian_h


Dec 17, 2010, 9:44 AM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...


(This post was edited by brian_h on Dec 17, 2010, 9:44 AM)


madscientist


Dec 17, 2010, 9:45 AM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
madscientist wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

What if it's a 12+ though?

So.... I've almost sent a 13- before. Two moves from the top. If John wants to climb 12+, so be it!

Which 13-? The green one or the silver one?

Green, my strength is crimps, therefore it was more appealing to me :)

Good work. It is probably the hardest route in Miramont right now. The brown 13 has one hard move at the bottom, then the rest is comparatively easy. The silver 13- is a great route, but not 13-.

You should get outside these days if that is your goal. The temperatures for bouldering are nearly perfect if you go to the right spots. Try Arthur's Rock and Carter Lake. Either place will be good as long as the temps are above freezing. They both get lots of sun.

The only advice I can give on sponsorship is try to do what I did when I was your age and racing mountain bikes. I put together a resume and sent it out. I was picked up by Bridgestone (when they were making mountain bikes) and raced for them for a year. In the very least, the process of putting together a resume will put some perspective on what you have or have not accomplished. The problem you may run into is that you have not accomplished much in the sport in five months, especially since many people do not regard indoor bouldering as significant unless it is a comp.


kachoong


Dec 17, 2010, 9:46 AM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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All you pussies need to stop humping each others legs and get a room!


brian_h


Dec 17, 2010, 10:03 AM
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Re: [kachoong] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
All you pussies need to stop humping each others legs and get a room!
I'm just amazed that someone has the stamina and creativity to keep building this troll story for so long. :)


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 10:52 AM
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Re: [brian_h] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.


johnwesely


Dec 17, 2010, 10:56 AM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 11:13 AM
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Re: [madscientist] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Good work. It is probably the hardest route in Miramont right now. The brown 13 has one hard move at the bottom, then the rest is comparatively easy. The silver 13- is a great route, but not 13-.

You should get outside these days if that is your goal. The temperatures for bouldering are nearly perfect if you go to the right spots. Try Arthur's Rock and Carter Lake. Either place will be good as long as the temps are above freezing. They both get lots of sun.

The only advice I can give on sponsorship is try to do what I did when I was your age and racing mountain bikes. I put together a resume and sent it out. I was picked up by Bridgestone (when they were making mountain bikes) and raced for them for a year. In the very least, the process of putting together a resume will put some perspective on what you have or have not accomplished. The problem you may run into is that you have not accomplished much in the sport in five months, especially since many people do not regard indoor bouldering as significant unless it is a comp.

Thanks. Ya I don't do a whole lot of sport climbing or TR. Bouldering is my main focus at the moment, not that I don't like sport and TR. I should probably start doing 1 day a week or so of sport climbing to improve my endurance.

I've been trying to get outside a bit more. At least when the weather is ok. Me and a friend are going to go hit up a few problems at Horsetooth Reservoir today if the weather is alright. I really should go with someone who knows the area very well and can show me around to different problems. I don't have a crash pad either which kind of sucks, but I'm trying to get one ASAP.

I appreciate the advice on sponsorships. I'm going to get outside a lot more this year so that I'll have some real BPs to put on a resume. These are my main goals for over the winter: 1.Get a crash pad. 2.Get outside! Haha. Thanks for the good advice!


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 11:23 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.


johnwesely


Dec 17, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.

I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route.


zealotnoob


Dec 17, 2010, 12:40 PM
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I read this and feel like I'm in some sort of troll matrix


Partner cracklover


Dec 17, 2010, 1:49 PM
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zealotnoob wrote:
I read this and feel like I'm in some sort of troll matrix

Whatever you do, don't take the blue pill. I did that once and next thing I knew I was flushed down a big blue toilet only to wake up in some pedantic and meaningless topic on mountain project. It's taken me months to plug myself back into the troll-matrix of rc.com, where everyone is the artificial version of themself. Ah, so much more pleasantly plastiferous.

GO


esander4


Dec 17, 2010, 2:56 PM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
madscientist wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

What if it's a 12+ though?

So.... I've almost sent a 13- before. Two moves from the top. If John wants to climb 12+, so be it!

Which 13-? The green one or the silver one?

Green, my strength is crimps, therefore it was more appealing to me :)

Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon.

My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again.

There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms.

Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun.


kaizen


Dec 17, 2010, 3:02 PM
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esander4 wrote:
Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon.

My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again.

There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms.

Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun.

This post made my day. HAHA!


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 3:50 PM
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In reply to:
Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon.

My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again.

There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms.

Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun.

Ya, you're probably right about the rope climbing being rated a bit soft at Miramont. I can't say much on those ratings. I know that they're boulder problems are rated very strict though. It is very possible that the last 2 moves aren't the hardest on that green 5.13-, I was a bit out by the time I got there though. I've only tried that route once and after a good hour or two of bouldering, so maybe I should try it some day when I'm nice and fresh.

I'm not quite sure if I've tried that 5.11-...but there is an orange route next to the lead test that is 5.11+ that I OSed. Maybe that's the one you're talking about? Maybe not. Again, I can't say much for the rope climbing ratings at Miramont. I don't do it hardly enough to be able to judge those ratings. I know that the BPs at Miramont are rated strictly, though. A friend who usually flashes ADV at Miramont went to The Spot in Boulder and was flashing OPEN-.

It seemed to me, and several others I have talked to, that they severely under rated some of the BPs from the comp. There's a black problem that they rated ADV- right after the comp and it took them about a week and a half to bump it up to ADV+. It was definitely not an ADV-. I almost think that they've actually rated them even stricter since the comp. I'd definitely like to check out the wall at CSU when I get the chance. Thanks for the tips!


Partner happiegrrrl


Dec 17, 2010, 4:14 PM
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ADV=? ADV-??

What is that - some old-school ratings system?


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 4:51 PM
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happiegrrrl wrote:
ADV=? ADV-??

What is that - some old-school ratings system?

Oh, sorry. It's a rating system that some gyms use for bouldering. ADV-=V5 and ADV=V6.


notapplicable


Dec 17, 2010, 7:01 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.

I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route.

The green route is over his head.


brian_h


Dec 17, 2010, 7:10 PM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
ADV=? ADV-??

What is that - some old-school ratings system?

Oh, sorry. It's a rating system that some gyms use for bouldering. ADV-=V5 and ADV=V6.
Why don't they just call them V5 and V6?


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 9:13 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.

I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route.

The green route is over his head.

Oh, really? Because John just sent it yesterday. Over his head? I don't think so. Great job John!


AustinCooper


Dec 17, 2010, 9:18 PM
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Re: [brian_h] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
ADV=? ADV-??

What is that - some old-school ratings system?

Oh, sorry. It's a rating system that some gyms use for bouldering. ADV-=V5 and ADV=V6.
Why don't they just call them V5 and V6?

Good question.... I've wondered the same myself. Maybe they do them by rec, int, adv, and open so that people can kind of get used to competition rating format in which case it'd be R#, I#, A#, and O#.

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