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AntinJ
Nov 16, 2010, 12:08 PM
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Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped?
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 16, 2010, 12:58 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped?
Yes. In case you are following the flamefest, like I said in that thread, I have ripped gear twice. The first time, I kind of expected it. This time I didn't. What I think happened is that the cam may have rotated as I moved past it moving into a less ideal position. When I went back up the second time, I took more time checking out that placement, in addition to checking the one that caught me. I put a slight larger piece in the second time around. In my estimation, it fit better.
Josh
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olderic
Nov 16, 2010, 2:35 PM
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You know Henry would never ever use cams. Of course this route was done long before cams - at least commercially available ones ever existed. Of course he could do things with hexes and opposed nuts that were amazing - although it was primarily his boldness that got him up things.
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wonderwoman
Nov 16, 2010, 2:45 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: AntinJ wrote: Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped? Yes. In case you are following the flamefest, like I said in that thread, I have ripped gear t whrice.
1. Echo Crag (sprained ankle #2)
2. Squamish (me having a screaming fit over my knee)
3. Ragged Mountain
But who is counting? 
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 16, 2010, 5:12 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: AntinJ wrote: Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped? Yes. In case you are following the flamefest, like I said in that thread, I have ripped gear t whrice. 1. Echo Crag (sprained ankle #2) 2. Squamish (me having a screaming fit over my knee) 3. Ragged Mountain But who is counting?
Oh, I don't count that first one because I was soloing and didn't know what the F I was doing. The way I look at it, it didn't come out because it was never really in.
Since I have learned to place gear and evaluate them, it has been exactly twice. Which is why I never trust my life to a single piece of gear.
But thanks for calling me out on line. 
Josh
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boymeetsrock
Nov 16, 2010, 5:17 PM
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^^^ WW512?
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losbill
Nov 16, 2010, 10:37 PM
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Josh --- Glad your okay. Good job on getting back on it and getting it done. Kudos to Brooke for the catch! For the record, relative to the BS on the other thread, I also might be inclined to defer the belay for the second attempt after catching a 30 footer to within 5 feet of the ground.
I have taken 10 falls this year, forgot 2 early season falls in the earlier post, surpassing all falls taken in previous 6 years. Guess I have been a more than a bit bolder. With one exception, where I should have communicated better with my belayer, all have been pretty short.
Josh reminded me, somewhere in the other thread that I pretty quickly got bored with, that you never want just one piece between you and dire consequences. I try to adhere to that dictum pretty religiously. All my falls, with the one exception of a bolt, have been on pieces that were backed up by another piece. Haven't had a piece pull on me yet but I'm relatively early in my trad career. Thanks Josh for posting up and reinforcing a very crucial aspect of trad climbing. --- Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Nov 16, 2010, 10:39 PM)
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tks
Dec 6, 2010, 6:48 PM
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Boy it's quiet around here! Anybody still climbing outside, or has everyone hung em up for the season?
Had a nice hour or two at Hammond on saturday, looking forward to heading up to Peabody in the next week or two to see those boulders. Anyone interested?
Tom
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yikesbikes
Dec 6, 2010, 6:59 PM
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Didn't know there were boulders in Peabody! Any info on location and ratings? Are they listed in Boston Rocks? I'd like to check them out.
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tks
Dec 6, 2010, 7:23 PM
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Lynn Woods
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yikesbikes
Dec 6, 2010, 7:50 PM
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Great, thanks. Finding a spattering of info online so far. Are there enough climbs under V3/4 to justify a trip out there if that's all I'm climbing?
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coldweather
Dec 15, 2010, 12:13 AM
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bet you can't at crow hill was that on gear
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coldweather
Dec 15, 2010, 12:15 AM
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losbill
Dec 21, 2010, 4:34 AM
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Just to clarify Mr. Coldweather's somewhat wise guy comment, which was directed at me. Bet'ca Can't is a 10 foot high boulder problem crack at Crow Hill. A few years ago, on my first day out after recovering from a foot fracture, I blew the exit move, fell and severely twisted my right ankle. Same foot as the fracture. Put me out of commission for another 3 or 4 weeks. Duh!!!!! No gear pulled since no gear was involved.
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coldweather
Dec 30, 2010, 1:15 AM
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anyone climbing on the 1st crow or farley
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losbill
Dec 30, 2010, 1:51 PM
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Right now planning on Sunday. Suggested to partner Saturday instead. I will call you when I hear back from him.
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losbill
Dec 30, 2010, 2:57 PM
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Hey Jake - Can you get out Sunday at LW? --- Bill
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AntinJ
Dec 30, 2010, 3:10 PM
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Now this is what I like to see! NE Climbing @ it's finest. I guess you guys forgot its Ice season!
Have fun.
Jason
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losbill
Dec 30, 2010, 3:17 PM
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Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays!
Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it.
Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill
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jakedatc
Dec 30, 2010, 4:38 PM
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losbill wrote: Hey Jake - Can you get out Sunday at LW? --- Bill
Bill if it doesn't rain I could be down for that. 40% chance at the moment but its a few days off.
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AntinJ
Dec 30, 2010, 4:52 PM
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losbill wrote: Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays! Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it. Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill
J
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 31, 2010, 3:54 AM
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AntinJ wrote: losbill wrote: Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays! Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it. Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill I did hear from Gabe! Thanks for connecting us. J
You're welcome 
Josh
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grantjk
Dec 31, 2010, 4:31 AM
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I just made plans to be at Farley in the morning on New Years Day, as long as the forecast doesn't change. I'm sure we'll be on the sunniest walls we can find. Jason, you can look for ice on the upper tiers if you feel the need, but it looks like a rock climbing day to me!
Grant
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losbill
Dec 31, 2010, 1:11 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: AntinJ wrote: losbill wrote: Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays! Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it. Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill I did hear from Gabe! Thanks for connecting us. J You're welcome Josh
Hey Grant just might see you Saturday. Given up on Sunday due to forecast. Waiting to hear back from someone before we decide where we are heading.
Jake are you available on Saturday for LW instead of Sunday? Any interest in coming up to Farley for bouldering/clipping bolts?
Bill
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jakedatc
Dec 31, 2010, 1:14 PM
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losbill wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: AntinJ wrote: losbill wrote: Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays! Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it. Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill I did hear from Gabe! Thanks for connecting us. J You're welcome Josh It was an abbreviated 6 degrees of separation effort! Hey Grant just might see you Saturday. Given up on Sunday due to forecast. Waiting to hear back from someone before we decide where we are heading. Jake are you available on Saturday for LW instead of Sunday? Any interest in coming up to Farley for bouldering/clipping bolts? Bill
nah i'm doing the NY day group ride with my bike club. have fun though
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