Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Top 5 sport climbs
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


Paxton3


Apr 27, 2011, 7:15 AM
Post #26 of 35 (1312 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2011
Posts: 1

Re: [bman123] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey, I would definitely take the season & temps into consideration. When I was young and dumb and had just got a car (16) we went out West on a climbing road trip in the middle of summer to Hueco, JTree, and Sedona. Needless to say it sucked hard core - it was too hot to even touch the rock in AZ and all I remember from J-Tree was the stench of the pit toilets!

August - go North: Wyoming (Wild Iris) or Vancouver (Squamish)
January: Mexico (Potreo Chico)
April - June: Salt Lake (American Fork)

I definitely take the predicted weather into way more consideration than what is the super best climbing according to someone else... I find I only do about 10-20 routes when on a vacation anyway and then move on to another crag. Very seldom do I ever just hate an area, the best routes are the ones you climb in the sun without cold hands or sweating or being rained upon.


A-Bowl


Apr 27, 2011, 9:40 AM
Post #27 of 35 (1287 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 76

Re: [bman123] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A lot of good places have been suggested but I think if you're looking for stellar sport climbing at the right temperature in the summer in a unique alpine setting then check out Pine Creek canyon in Bishop ca. Most other areas around there are too hot and the sport climbing around tahoe area isn't as good. This also sets you up to do some sport climbing up in tuolumne which is amazing knob pulling. Pine creek has one of my favorite 3 pitch 11c climbs... each pitch 11c and amazing as well as many wild roofs and interesting other 11s... slab and steep. it is very featured granite. Enjoy!


eddie_munster


Apr 28, 2011, 9:48 AM
Post #28 of 35 (1256 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78

Re: [rtwilli4] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rtwilli4 wrote:


The east has the best sport climbing besides a few select areas out west. If you were climbing 5.13 I might say go to Rifle or Smith but at you're grade you should just go spend a month at the Red. THEN... AFTER THE RED... go spend the rest of your time at the New.

Seriously... you're crazy to go out west. You couldn't have possibly climbed all of the 5.11's w/in your weekend territory.

Actually, although the red is great for 5.12 and up, Owens River Gorge is a way better crag for 5.10 and 5.11. I'd say it is the biggest and best sport crag in the U.S. for 5.9 through 5.11. If you're in Bishop, you might also check out Pine Creek, which has a lot of 5.11.


(This post was edited by eddie_munster on Apr 28, 2011, 9:52 AM)


eddie_munster


Apr 28, 2011, 10:22 AM
Post #29 of 35 (1248 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78

Re: [jt512] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
jape wrote:
Owens Gorge + Clark Canyon (CA)

Really? I find that Owens is mediocre and that Clark outright sucks.

Jay

Really? I noticed you frequent New Jack City. Like that place shines over Clark? As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country. Did your ego get hurt? I noticed you haven't done anything from Owens. Grades are stiff there compared to New Jack or places like the Red.


jt512


Apr 28, 2011, 10:38 AM
Post #30 of 35 (1243 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [eddie_munster] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

eddie_munster wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jape wrote:
Owens Gorge + Clark Canyon (CA)

Really? I find that Owens is mediocre and that Clark outright sucks.

Jay

Really? I noticed you frequent New Jack City. Like that place shines over Clark?

Yeah, by like a factor of 100.

In reply to:
As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country.

If by "the country" you mean rural central California, then, maybe.

In reply to:
Did your ego get hurt? I noticed you haven't done anything from Owens. Grades are stiff there compared to New Jack . . .

I've never noticed that.

Jay

Edit: Correct order of magnitude.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 28, 2011, 11:09 AM)


Diphthong


Apr 28, 2011, 11:06 AM
Post #31 of 35 (1232 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639

Re: [eddie_munster] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

eddie_munster wrote:
As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country.

You've just invalidated any credibility you may have had of knowing what the hell you're talking about.


jbone


Apr 28, 2011, 12:32 PM
Post #32 of 35 (1218 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 461

Re: [olderic] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
Here you go:

1. She's the Bosch
2. Barbecue the Pope
3. Expressway
4. Steve's (Hunchback) Arete
5. Fear and Loathing - the grade is a bit higher but no move is harder then easy 11.

I'm not telling you where they are but any experienced sport climber will know. Part of the fun - for you - should be learning about different areas.

I'll second this list, even though 2 of the 5 I haven't been to.


lithiummetalman


Apr 28, 2011, 12:54 PM
Post #33 of 35 (1200 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 286

Re: [bman123] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tahoe


(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Apr 28, 2011, 12:55 PM)


cfnubbler


Apr 28, 2011, 6:40 PM
Post #34 of 35 (1169 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628

Re: [bman123] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you're accustomed to the Red and the New, then you're going to be very underwhelmed with the sport climbing in Red Rocks. Don't get me wrong: I LOVE Red Rocks, but the sport climbing there is 2nd tier at best. While the long routes back in the canyons are world class, the sport climbing is fairly mediocre.


eddie_munster


Apr 28, 2011, 8:37 PM
Post #35 of 35 (1150 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78

Re: [Diphthong] Top 5 sport climbs [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Diphthong wrote:
eddie_munster wrote:
As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country.

You've just invalidated any credibility you may have had of knowing what the hell you're talking about.
Read my earlier post. I said one of the best sport crags for 5.9 - 5.11. So name another crag that is superior in that grade range. Quantity, variety, and quality. Everybody has favorite crags, and I for one like the East Coast. The new is perhaps the best crag (accounting for trad/sport) in the country. Personally I like it better than the red, which isn't all that diverse, though still an amazing set of crags as well, especially for 5.12 and up. So what else out west is gonna stack up to the gorge for 5.11. Please, enlighten me. I've climbed all over the U.S.

two people voted on Expressway as a top 5.11. That's not even the best 5.11 at Owens, it's just well known. There's hundreds and hundreds of 5.11's there.


(This post was edited by eddie_munster on Apr 28, 2011, 8:40 PM)

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$44.96 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)
$4.05 (10% off)
$35.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook