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Testing a "Dynamic Belay"
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healyje


Feb 1, 2011, 11:35 AM
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Re: [qwert] Testing a "Dynamic Belay" [In reply to]
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qwert wrote:
healyje wrote:
Overall I don't use cords that 'fuzz' for the most part and don't consider fuzz / coating in the equation except relative to my roped-soloing device (Eddy)...
where do you get that ropes? I want them!
I have managed to turn thin, slippery ropes that where really hard to hold into fuzzy fatties that got hard to feed through the device quite fast.
Mammut SuperSafe and Maxim Gliders don't.

qwert wrote:
One size fits all is surely a bad idea (though stuff like the edelrid zap-o-mat might lead to a "solution"), but you have to have some range, if you dont want to end up with 100 devices.

Again, I pass on the range, three devices covers 7-8, 9, and 10 really well and perfect to those diameters.

qwert wrote:
In reply to:
I want the belayer to just lock it up and I'll take care of the 'dynamic' protection of my placements if they need it.
So why do you not just give you belayer an autoblock, which us just as safe as an ATC or similar device, with the added safety function that it will still stop you fall if your belayer got knocked out due to rockfall or something similar?

I don't worry about the 'knocked out' argument - you are about 100 million times more likely today to be dropped repeatedly by grigri users before being held when one of them gets knocked out. There aren't a lot of people I trust with a grigri and I just find them a bit pointless for muiltipitch trad climbing which is pretty much all I do. I use one for aid soloing, but that's it.


(This post was edited by healyje on Feb 1, 2011, 11:43 AM)


airscape


Feb 2, 2011, 3:34 AM
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Re: [healyje] Testing a "Dynamic Belay" [In reply to]
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This is a most interesting discussion.


rightarmbad


Feb 2, 2011, 3:51 AM
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Re: [airscape] Testing a "Dynamic Belay" [In reply to]
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I have only ever had a rope slip in my hand on one occasion.
A hard fall above the first bolt and I had just fed slack to clip the bolt and therefore my brake hand was very close to the device and the rope slipped when my hand got to the device.
At any other time, my hand does not slip.
The rope does sometimes creep through the device and my hand gets closer to the device, but unless my hand contacts the device, my hand does not slip.
I have never seen more than 4 or 5 inches in slip though.

If it is a big fall, then I have plenty of time to get my brake hand into a favorable position to create lots of braking and the rope generally doesn't slip.

Dynamic braking is achieved by body movement and letting my hand approach the device, never the rope slipping through my hand.

I don't think that I would be comfortable with a belayer that let the rope slip through their hand.


ncrockclimber


Feb 2, 2011, 6:20 AM
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Re: [JimTitt] Testing a "Dynamic Belay" [In reply to]
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Great thread! Thanks, Jim, for posting all the useful information. I am looking forward to the Chicane coming out.

One other new device that is coming out is the Mammut Alpine Smart. It looks interesting. Like the original Smart, it is a locking assist device. The Alpine version gives you the added ability to use two ropes (both on lead and rappel) and auto-block.

I don't know if I really need another belay device (probably not!), but it is really cool to have all these options!


sp115


Feb 2, 2011, 6:22 AM
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Re: [ncrockclimber] Testing a "Dynamic Belay" [In reply to]
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I'm looking forward to that too, should be here in the spring according to the US rep I spoke to.

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