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Which Rubber do you prefer?
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Poll: Witch Rubber do you prefer?
Stealth C4 29 / 26%
Stealth HF 4 / 4%
Stealth Mystique 7 / 6%
Stealth Onyx 8 / 7%
Vibram XS Edge 18 / 16%
Vibram XS Grip 2 19 / 17%
Evolv XT-5 15 / 13%
Acopa..... 5 / 4%
Madrock... 5 / 4%
Other please Explain 3 / 3%
113 total votes
 

WoogieMonster


Mar 3, 2011, 3:25 PM
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Which Rubber do you prefer?
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I have started a poll to find out which rubber is going to be the best options for me. Do you prefer a 4 mm or 5 mm sole. Smaller?
Do you usually stick with the rubber from the manufacturer or change it up when resoling.
I am allowing multiple answers because some users may like a couple different options.
Personal favorites Stealth C4 and Vibram XS Edge.
If you choose a rubber please leave a message with why the rubber is your choice.
Thanks for playing.


(This post was edited by WoogieMonster on Mar 3, 2011, 3:27 PM)


vegastradguy


Mar 3, 2011, 3:54 PM
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meh, they're all the same- they stick to rock.

if the rubber makes that much of a difference, you need to work on your footwork.

oh, and the the STICKIEST climbing rubber is 5.10 Mi:6. It sticks to glass. Literally.


lithiummetalman


Mar 3, 2011, 4:49 PM
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Why no latex?


Arrogant_Bastard


Mar 3, 2011, 5:16 PM
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WoogieMonster wrote:
I have started a poll to find out which rubber is going to be the best options for me.

Can't argue with that, it's science.


Shane769


Mar 3, 2011, 5:23 PM
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I am a fan of the Trojans really.Wink Angelic

I picked the Vibram VS Edge, cause that is what is on my current shoes. Difference compounds don't seem that different to me, but using a thinner sole gives a better feel.


Partner j_ung


Mar 3, 2011, 5:49 PM
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I prefer no rubber, but I don't want a bunch of little j_ungs running about.


USnavy


Mar 3, 2011, 6:05 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
meh, they're all the same- they stick to rock.

if the rubber makes that much of a difference, you need to work on your footwork.

oh, and the the STICKIEST climbing rubber is 5.10 Mi:6. It sticks to glass. Literally.
haha apparently you have never tried Fusion 3 rubber. I put on a pair of old Borel shoes from way back in the day on the other day, it was like climbing on ice!


vegastradguy


Mar 3, 2011, 11:16 PM
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Apparently you havent read my article from OR. Mi:6 takes sticky rubber into another dimension.


USnavy


Mar 3, 2011, 11:30 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
Apparently you havent read my article from OR. Mi:6 takes sticky rubber into another dimension.
link?


areyoumydude


Mar 3, 2011, 11:34 PM
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USnavy wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
Apparently you havent read my article from OR. Mi:6 takes sticky rubber into another dimension.
link?
http://www.dreamstime.com/...nk--thumb1907100.jpg


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Mar 4, 2011, 9:12 AM)


guangzhou


Mar 3, 2011, 11:57 PM
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areyoumydude wrote:
USnavy wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
Apparently you havent read my article from OR. Mi:6 takes sticky rubber into another dimension.
link?
[image]http://www.dreamstime.com/sausage-link--thumb1907100.jpg[/image]


You just broke the copyright law. Taking a image from a stock site is pretty blatant too.


vegastradguy


Mar 4, 2011, 12:08 AM
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USnavy wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
Apparently you havent read my article from OR. Mi:6 takes sticky rubber into another dimension.
link?
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/...how-winter-2011-wrap

i'm working for these guys now, so you'll have to go there for or show reports and gear reviews from me.


blondgecko
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Mar 4, 2011, 12:14 AM
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j_ung wrote:
I prefer no rubber, but I don't want a bunch of little j_ungs running about.

... or a bunch of things running about on your little j_ung.


WoogieMonster


Mar 4, 2011, 9:17 AM
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Sorry there is no Lamb skin option. Next time.


donald949


Mar 4, 2011, 10:36 AM
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j_ung wrote:
I prefer no rubber, but I don't want a bunch of little j_ungs running about.
I too prefer no rubber, but see my sig, VVVV.


sbaclimber


Mar 4, 2011, 11:27 AM
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USnavy wrote:
I put on a pair of old Borel shoes from way back in the day on the other day, it was like climbing on ice!
No kidding! The old Aces were some of the best all-round shoes with some of the absolutely worst rubber back in the mid to late '90s.


billcoe_


Mar 4, 2011, 1:12 PM
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I haven't tried most of them so didn't vote, however, to me, the Acopa rubber seems to skate on rock compared to Evolv when it's wet out.


rtwilli4


Mar 4, 2011, 2:10 PM
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Acopa rubber is pretty amazing when you can get good surface contact (smearing, slabby stuff, etc). It's a bit too soft for dime edges but if it's vertical or less then smearing is almost just as good... that's how sticky it is. The Merlin is amazing for finger cracks or thin hands where you can''t always get your feet in the crack. Like a good sticky tire though, it wears out fast.

I'm a pretty big fan of 5.10 rubber for all around use. It wears well for how sticky it is. Evolve is the same. I hate Vibram for climbing but my Chacos are sticky enough.


gosharks


Mar 4, 2011, 2:51 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
I hate Vibram for climbing but my Chacos are sticky enough.
I can climb surprisingly well in my Chacos.


LeadZeppelin


Mar 4, 2011, 4:01 PM
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Right now the C4 is way out in the lead in the poll. I googled the subject and found this article:

http://climbing.about.com/b/2008/12/15/new-study-which-shoe-rubber-is-stickiest.htm

Interesting to say the least.

I've never resoled shoes before and I need to send off my first pair soon. I'm also wondering what I should go with. Decisions decisions!


vegastradguy


Mar 4, 2011, 4:07 PM
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i wouldnt call one vote way out in the lead. but whatever.

C4 is easily the most popular rubber out there. 5.10 will tell you that Mystique and Onyx are both stickier (and more durable) than C4. That said, I'm not entirely sure you can get Onyx rubber for resoling, and I'm pretty sure you cannot get Mystique yet (although maybe you can...not sure if its been out long enough yet).

If you like the rubber that you are currently using, get that. No rubber is going to give you so much more friction that it will change your climbing.


MidnightR


Mar 4, 2011, 4:49 PM
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Onyx is the stickiest I've tried


mattm


Mar 4, 2011, 7:02 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
i wouldnt call one vote way out in the lead. but whatever.

C4 is easily the most popular rubber out there. 5.10 will tell you that Mystique and Onyx are both stickier (and more durable) than C4. That said, I'm not entirely sure you can get Onyx rubber for resoling, and I'm pretty sure you cannot get Mystique yet (although maybe you can...not sure if its been out long enough yet).

If you like the rubber that you are currently using, get that. No rubber is going to give you so much more friction that it will change your climbing.

Onyx is available for resoles. Mystique isn't AFAIK.

Vibram has XS Edge right now but strangely no Grip 2 for resoles.

I've found C4 to be better at lower temps.
Vibram at the warmer temps.

I've been impressed with the new Vibram Edge. Does what it says.

Different rubbers for different needs/conditions. There is no "ONE" rubber


WoogieMonster


Mar 6, 2011, 6:05 AM
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Looking to get 100 votes keep em coming. I am seeing a trend here. They luvs that C4. Boom. I remember last year at this time Vibram was about the most popular.
and thanks to everyone who has voted.


Jooler


Mar 7, 2011, 9:46 AM
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I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.


WoogieMonster


Mar 8, 2011, 7:44 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
Acopa rubber is pretty amazing when you can get good surface contact (smearing, slabby stuff, etc). It's a bit too soft for dime edges but if it's vertical or less then smearing is almost just as good... that's how sticky it is. The Merlin is amazing for finger cracks or thin hands where you can''t always get your feet in the crack. Like a good sticky tire though, it wears out fast.

I'm a pretty big fan of 5.10 rubber for all around use. It wears well for how sticky it is. Evolve is the same. I hate Vibram for climbing but my Chacos are sticky enough.

My mentor swears by Acopa loves them and is worried about the company. Since JB's death. He thinks that without their fearless leader that the Company may now fair to well.
And I gets a PTFTW I let it sit there for over 24 hours Nows I gets the Claims it.


WoogieMonster


Mar 11, 2011, 12:51 PM
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SUPEr bump for A hundred please!


gosharks


Mar 11, 2011, 1:42 PM
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Jooler wrote:
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Maybe I don't boulder hard enough or something, but I've never had any issue with Mad Rock rubber and think that it gets an undeserved reputation. Crazy


Jooler


Mar 11, 2011, 1:47 PM
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gosharks wrote:
Jooler wrote:
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Maybe I don't boulder hard enough or something, but I've never had any issue with Mad Rock rubber and think that it gets an undeserved reputation. Crazy


I think you misinterpreted my post. I've never climbed with Madrocks so I cannot speak for their stickiness. I was mearly posting to LeadZeppelin to show that there are conflicting "studys" on this subject and to take their findings with a grain of salt.


WoogieMonster


Mar 18, 2011, 6:12 PM
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Bumpity bump Bump beeches


WoogieMonster


Mar 23, 2011, 11:30 AM
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Wants a hundred Bust it


singletrackmike


Mar 23, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Last year I'd gotten an elderly pair of purple Sportivas re-soled with Stealth Onyx and am amazed at what they can stick and edge on.
And then I put on my new Acopa JB's, and I feel even more confident doing the same moves.
I think the RS (Really Sticky) rubber of Acopa is a tad better - at least for the type of climbing I do.


WoogieMonster


Mar 26, 2011, 5:30 AM
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looking for 12 more replies. JUST 12 sack up folks and rock the vote


mpg76


Mar 26, 2011, 8:13 AM
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you must aslso consider which kind of rock you climb the most. vibram rubber tends to be harder, and works great for granite. on the other hand if you climb softer stone you want softer rubber, like m.r. or stealth


WoogieMonster


Mar 31, 2011, 3:21 PM
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8 more votes and I will never bring it up again Promise.


WoogieMonster


Jul 16, 2011, 5:37 PM
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Bumpin this thread into today. Or into the future. Its been to the past and now sits in the present. let it be a glimpse into the realm of insanity.
Sorry I figured I would type mombo jumbo till I got bored, But at least it looks like I am busy. and the woman thinks I am working. HA woman I am bullshittin. Whos the winner now Me ME ME POW


moose_droppings


Jul 16, 2011, 6:45 PM
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WoogieMonster wrote:
Bumpin this thread into today. Or into the future. Its been to the past and now sits in the present. let it be a glimpse into the realm of insanity.
Sorry I figured I would type mombo jumbo till I got bored, But at least it looks like I am busy. and the woman thinks I am working. HA woman I am bullshittin. Whos the winner now Me ME ME POW


Your fooling yourself if you think your fooling a woman.
Wink


retro


Jan 8, 2013, 7:40 AM
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C4 is probably my favorite, but I was recently really impressed by the sensitivity and stickiness of the xs grip 2 on my Scarpa Instincts. Very nice rubber, good on edge and performed well on steep slab. Now I understand Scarpa will be using xs edge on the Instincts...that rubber sucks!! My Fires stuck to shit better than that crap Vibram is now producing and shoving down our throats. One step forward....two giant steps back Scarpa. I will buy up a few more pairs with the xs grip 2 and then maybe go back to Five Ten. So disappointed. Mad


shotwell


Jan 8, 2013, 7:49 AM
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retro wrote:
C4 is probably my favorite, but I was recently really impressed by the sensitivity and stickiness of the xs grip 2 on my Scarpa Instincts. Very nice rubber, good on edge and performed well on steep slab. Now I understand Scarpa will be using xs edge on the Instincts...that rubber sucks!! My Fires stuck to shit better than that crap Vibram is now producing and shoving down our throats. One step forward....two giant steps back Scarpa. I will buy up a few more pairs with the xs grip 2 and then maybe go back to Five Ten. So disappointed. Mad

I've climbed in a lot of rubber, but recently just the grip2 and edge. I find no discernible difference despite climbing on a very wide variety of rock types all across the US and in France and Spain. I'm not saying that you need to have the same experience I'm having; I am honestly just surprised that you're having trouble. What is the rubber doing that makes it crap?


retro


Jan 8, 2013, 8:12 AM
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I've been climbing for close to 30 years now and honestly...when I first started...rubber was rubber, but with the new compounds that have come out in recent years, one can really tell the difference. Anyway...what have I experienced? I tried two pair of TC pros with the xs edge and slipped off of a bunch of holds and have experienced friends and partners of mine experience the same on the same climbs. With the xs grip 2...nothing but bombproof. with my onyxx...no issues. Here in the Northeast we have bullet proof granite and quartzite that does get polished over time...the softer more sensitive rubber does much better out in in most situations. I tried to like the xs edge (since everything now seems to come with it), but for the cilmbing out here it is less than optimal. I hate how stiff if feels underfoot and all sensitivity is lost. Just my opinion and your milage may vary...but I prefer the xs grip, grip 2 or five ten rubber over the new edge anyday!
Wink


(This post was edited by retro on Jan 8, 2013, 8:17 AM)


granite_grrl


Jan 8, 2013, 9:45 AM
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j_ung wrote:
I prefer no rubber, but I don't want a bunch of little j_ungs running about.

The ironing!


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