Mar 3, 2011, 3:25 PM
Post #1 of 41
(7308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2011
Posts: 27
Which Rubber do you prefer?
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
I have started a poll to find out which rubber is going to be the best options for me. Do you prefer a 4 mm or 5 mm sole. Smaller? Do you usually stick with the rubber from the manufacturer or change it up when resoling. I am allowing multiple answers because some users may like a couple different options. Personal favorites Stealth C4 and Vibram XS Edge. If you choose a rubber please leave a message with why the rubber is your choice. Thanks for playing.
(This post was edited by WoogieMonster on Mar 3, 2011, 3:27 PM)
I picked the Vibram VS Edge, cause that is what is on my current shoes. Difference compounds don't seem that different to me, but using a thinner sole gives a better feel.
if the rubber makes that much of a difference, you need to work on your footwork.
oh, and the the STICKIEST climbing rubber is 5.10 Mi:6. It sticks to glass. Literally.
haha apparently you have never tried Fusion 3 rubber. I put on a pair of old Borel shoes from way back in the day on the other day, it was like climbing on ice!
Acopa rubber is pretty amazing when you can get good surface contact (smearing, slabby stuff, etc). It's a bit too soft for dime edges but if it's vertical or less then smearing is almost just as good... that's how sticky it is. The Merlin is amazing for finger cracks or thin hands where you can''t always get your feet in the crack. Like a good sticky tire though, it wears out fast.
I'm a pretty big fan of 5.10 rubber for all around use. It wears well for how sticky it is. Evolve is the same. I hate Vibram for climbing but my Chacos are sticky enough.
i wouldnt call one vote way out in the lead. but whatever.
C4 is easily the most popular rubber out there. 5.10 will tell you that Mystique and Onyx are both stickier (and more durable) than C4. That said, I'm not entirely sure you can get Onyx rubber for resoling, and I'm pretty sure you cannot get Mystique yet (although maybe you can...not sure if its been out long enough yet).
If you like the rubber that you are currently using, get that. No rubber is going to give you so much more friction that it will change your climbing.
i wouldnt call one vote way out in the lead. but whatever.
C4 is easily the most popular rubber out there. 5.10 will tell you that Mystique and Onyx are both stickier (and more durable) than C4. That said, I'm not entirely sure you can get Onyx rubber for resoling, and I'm pretty sure you cannot get Mystique yet (although maybe you can...not sure if its been out long enough yet).
If you like the rubber that you are currently using, get that. No rubber is going to give you so much more friction that it will change your climbing.
Onyx is available for resoles. Mystique isn't AFAIK.
Vibram has XS Edge right now but strangely no Grip 2 for resoles.
I've found C4 to be better at lower temps. Vibram at the warmer temps.
I've been impressed with the new Vibram Edge. Does what it says.
Different rubbers for different needs/conditions. There is no "ONE" rubber
Looking to get 100 votes keep em coming. I am seeing a trend here. They luvs that C4. Boom. I remember last year at this time Vibram was about the most popular. and thanks to everyone who has voted.
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Acopa rubber is pretty amazing when you can get good surface contact (smearing, slabby stuff, etc). It's a bit too soft for dime edges but if it's vertical or less then smearing is almost just as good... that's how sticky it is. The Merlin is amazing for finger cracks or thin hands where you can''t always get your feet in the crack. Like a good sticky tire though, it wears out fast.
I'm a pretty big fan of 5.10 rubber for all around use. It wears well for how sticky it is. Evolve is the same. I hate Vibram for climbing but my Chacos are sticky enough.
My mentor swears by Acopa loves them and is worried about the company. Since JB's death. He thinks that without their fearless leader that the Company may now fair to well. And I gets a PTFTW I let it sit there for over 24 hours Nows I gets the Claims it.
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Maybe I don't boulder hard enough or something, but I've never had any issue with Mad Rock rubber and think that it gets an undeserved reputation.
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Maybe I don't boulder hard enough or something, but I've never had any issue with Mad Rock rubber and think that it gets an undeserved reputation.
I think you misinterpreted my post. I've never climbed with Madrocks so I cannot speak for their stickiness. I was mearly posting to LeadZeppelin to show that there are conflicting "studys" on this subject and to take their findings with a grain of salt.
Last year I'd gotten an elderly pair of purple Sportivas re-soled with Stealth Onyx and am amazed at what they can stick and edge on. And then I put on my new Acopa JB's, and I feel even more confident doing the same moves. I think the RS (Really Sticky) rubber of Acopa is a tad better - at least for the type of climbing I do.
you must aslso consider which kind of rock you climb the most. vibram rubber tends to be harder, and works great for granite. on the other hand if you climb softer stone you want softer rubber, like m.r. or stealth
Bumpin this thread into today. Or into the future. Its been to the past and now sits in the present. let it be a glimpse into the realm of insanity. Sorry I figured I would type mombo jumbo till I got bored, But at least it looks like I am busy. and the woman thinks I am working. HA woman I am bullshittin. Whos the winner now Me ME ME POW
Bumpin this thread into today. Or into the future. Its been to the past and now sits in the present. let it be a glimpse into the realm of insanity. Sorry I figured I would type mombo jumbo till I got bored, But at least it looks like I am busy. and the woman thinks I am working. HA woman I am bullshittin. Whos the winner now Me ME ME POW
Your fooling yourself if you think your fooling a woman.
C4 is probably my favorite, but I was recently really impressed by the sensitivity and stickiness of the xs grip 2 on my Scarpa Instincts. Very nice rubber, good on edge and performed well on steep slab. Now I understand Scarpa will be using xs edge on the Instincts...that rubber sucks!! My Fires stuck to shit better than that crap Vibram is now producing and shoving down our throats. One step forward....two giant steps back Scarpa. I will buy up a few more pairs with the xs grip 2 and then maybe go back to Five Ten. So disappointed.
C4 is probably my favorite, but I was recently really impressed by the sensitivity and stickiness of the xs grip 2 on my Scarpa Instincts. Very nice rubber, good on edge and performed well on steep slab. Now I understand Scarpa will be using xs edge on the Instincts...that rubber sucks!! My Fires stuck to shit better than that crap Vibram is now producing and shoving down our throats. One step forward....two giant steps back Scarpa. I will buy up a few more pairs with the xs grip 2 and then maybe go back to Five Ten. So disappointed.
I've climbed in a lot of rubber, but recently just the grip2 and edge. I find no discernible difference despite climbing on a very wide variety of rock types all across the US and in France and Spain. I'm not saying that you need to have the same experience I'm having; I am honestly just surprised that you're having trouble. What is the rubber doing that makes it crap?
I've been climbing for close to 30 years now and honestly...when I first started...rubber was rubber, but with the new compounds that have come out in recent years, one can really tell the difference. Anyway...what have I experienced? I tried two pair of TC pros with the xs edge and slipped off of a bunch of holds and have experienced friends and partners of mine experience the same on the same climbs. With the xs grip 2...nothing but bombproof. with my onyxx...no issues. Here in the Northeast we have bullet proof granite and quartzite that does get polished over time...the softer more sensitive rubber does much better out in in most situations. I tried to like the xs edge (since everything now seems to come with it), but for the cilmbing out here it is less than optimal. I hate how stiff if feels underfoot and all sensitivity is lost. Just my opinion and your milage may vary...but I prefer the xs grip, grip 2 or five ten rubber over the new edge anyday!
(This post was edited by retro on Jan 8, 2013, 8:17 AM)
29 /
26%
