Acopa rubber is pretty amazing when you can get good surface contact (smearing, slabby stuff, etc). It's a bit too soft for dime edges but if it's vertical or less then smearing is almost just as good... that's how sticky it is. The Merlin is amazing for finger cracks or thin hands where you can''t always get your feet in the crack. Like a good sticky tire though, it wears out fast.
I'm a pretty big fan of 5.10 rubber for all around use. It wears well for how sticky it is. Evolve is the same. I hate Vibram for climbing but my Chacos are sticky enough.
My mentor swears by Acopa loves them and is worried about the company. Since JB's death. He thinks that without their fearless leader that the Company may now fair to well. And I gets a PTFTW I let it sit there for over 24 hours Nows I gets the Claims it.
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Maybe I don't boulder hard enough or something, but I've never had any issue with Mad Rock rubber and think that it gets an undeserved reputation.
I read a "study" online once that put Madrock at the top for stickiness... This was a few years ago and I'm not gonna go looking for it, but just goes to show that "studies" on the internet can have some skewed results.
Maybe I don't boulder hard enough or something, but I've never had any issue with Mad Rock rubber and think that it gets an undeserved reputation.
I think you misinterpreted my post. I've never climbed with Madrocks so I cannot speak for their stickiness. I was mearly posting to LeadZeppelin to show that there are conflicting "studys" on this subject and to take their findings with a grain of salt.
Last year I'd gotten an elderly pair of purple Sportivas re-soled with Stealth Onyx and am amazed at what they can stick and edge on. And then I put on my new Acopa JB's, and I feel even more confident doing the same moves. I think the RS (Really Sticky) rubber of Acopa is a tad better - at least for the type of climbing I do.
you must aslso consider which kind of rock you climb the most. vibram rubber tends to be harder, and works great for granite. on the other hand if you climb softer stone you want softer rubber, like m.r. or stealth
Bumpin this thread into today. Or into the future. Its been to the past and now sits in the present. let it be a glimpse into the realm of insanity. Sorry I figured I would type mombo jumbo till I got bored, But at least it looks like I am busy. and the woman thinks I am working. HA woman I am bullshittin. Whos the winner now Me ME ME POW
Bumpin this thread into today. Or into the future. Its been to the past and now sits in the present. let it be a glimpse into the realm of insanity. Sorry I figured I would type mombo jumbo till I got bored, But at least it looks like I am busy. and the woman thinks I am working. HA woman I am bullshittin. Whos the winner now Me ME ME POW
Your fooling yourself if you think your fooling a woman.
C4 is probably my favorite, but I was recently really impressed by the sensitivity and stickiness of the xs grip 2 on my Scarpa Instincts. Very nice rubber, good on edge and performed well on steep slab. Now I understand Scarpa will be using xs edge on the Instincts...that rubber sucks!! My Fires stuck to shit better than that crap Vibram is now producing and shoving down our throats. One step forward....two giant steps back Scarpa. I will buy up a few more pairs with the xs grip 2 and then maybe go back to Five Ten. So disappointed.
C4 is probably my favorite, but I was recently really impressed by the sensitivity and stickiness of the xs grip 2 on my Scarpa Instincts. Very nice rubber, good on edge and performed well on steep slab. Now I understand Scarpa will be using xs edge on the Instincts...that rubber sucks!! My Fires stuck to shit better than that crap Vibram is now producing and shoving down our throats. One step forward....two giant steps back Scarpa. I will buy up a few more pairs with the xs grip 2 and then maybe go back to Five Ten. So disappointed.
I've climbed in a lot of rubber, but recently just the grip2 and edge. I find no discernible difference despite climbing on a very wide variety of rock types all across the US and in France and Spain. I'm not saying that you need to have the same experience I'm having; I am honestly just surprised that you're having trouble. What is the rubber doing that makes it crap?
I've been climbing for close to 30 years now and honestly...when I first started...rubber was rubber, but with the new compounds that have come out in recent years, one can really tell the difference. Anyway...what have I experienced? I tried two pair of TC pros with the xs edge and slipped off of a bunch of holds and have experienced friends and partners of mine experience the same on the same climbs. With the xs grip 2...nothing but bombproof. with my onyxx...no issues. Here in the Northeast we have bullet proof granite and quartzite that does get polished over time...the softer more sensitive rubber does much better out in in most situations. I tried to like the xs edge (since everything now seems to come with it), but for the cilmbing out here it is less than optimal. I hate how stiff if feels underfoot and all sensitivity is lost. Just my opinion and your milage may vary...but I prefer the xs grip, grip 2 or five ten rubber over the new edge anyday!
(This post was edited by retro on Jan 8, 2013, 4:17 PM)
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