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gripcoach


Mar 15, 2011, 6:05 AM
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Get a grip like a Gorilla.
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I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach


mojomonkey


Mar 15, 2011, 6:23 AM
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gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

I'll go with being dangerous and stupid I guess - training my grip specifically (and I mean with weights) sounds pretty boring.

But perhaps you have a routine that isn't boring - and could save my life - that you are willing to share with me for a small coaching fee?


Toast_in_the_Machine


Mar 15, 2011, 6:52 AM
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gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

Years ago the middle of your body was called your midsection, stomach, gut, or maybe abs. Then some fitness marketing wiz started to use the word "core". You know, the engine room of movement. Core. Suddenly, it was everywhere. Core, core, core, core. You didn't work your abs, obliques, external abdominal oblique, or, gawd forbid, your rectus abdominis. I mean it is practically like saying rectum. No, say core. Core,core,clore,core,core.

Gawd I hate that word. You know the only thing that is stupider than "core"?

Muscle memory.


spikeddem


Mar 15, 2011, 7:09 AM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

Years ago the middle of your body was called your midsection, stomach, gut, or maybe abs. Then some fitness marketing wiz started to use the word "core". You know, the engine room of movement. Core. Suddenly, it was everywhere. Core, core, core, core. You didn't work your abs, obliques, external abdominal oblique, or, gawd forbid, your rectus abdominis. I mean it is practically like saying rectum. No, say core. Core,core,clore,core,core.

Gawd I hate that word. You know the only thing that is stupider than "core"?

Muscle memory.
OK, well one's core refers to much more than his or her stomach. That's the exact reason why people say "core" and not "stomach." It encompasses more muscles than you listed.

Regardless, what's wrong with the term "muscle memory?" Is it not as fancy as "motor learning?"

Edit: That being said, I'm with you that this OP is lame. It's a troll, perhaps by one of the BET meanies; almost certainly by someone that is already a member of this site.


(This post was edited by spikeddem on Mar 15, 2011, 7:12 AM)


sungam


Mar 15, 2011, 7:20 AM
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gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach
All them gorillaz sending 5.13.


Toast_in_the_Machine


Mar 15, 2011, 7:27 AM
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spikeddem wrote:
Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

Years ago the middle of your body was called your midsection, stomach, gut, or maybe abs. Then some fitness marketing wiz started to use the word "core". You know, the engine room of movement. Core. Suddenly, it was everywhere. Core, core, core, core. You didn't work your abs, obliques, external abdominal oblique, or, gawd forbid, your rectus abdominis. I mean it is practically like saying rectum. No, say core. Core,core,clore,core,core.

Gawd I hate that word. You know the only thing that is stupider than "core"?

Muscle memory.
OK, well one's core refers to much more than his or her stomach. That's the exact reason why people say "core" and not "stomach." It encompasses more muscles than you listed.

Regardless, what's wrong with the term "muscle memory?" Is it not as fancy as "motor learning?"

Edit: That being said, I'm with you that this OP is lame. It's a troll, perhaps by one of the BET meanies; almost certainly by someone that is already a member of this site.

I quoted the OP not to reply, but, well you know why.

I can't stand buzz words. "Core" is no more accurate than midsection, it just sounds sexier.

And simply muscles don't have a memory.


iknowfear


Mar 15, 2011, 7:50 AM
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gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

as a friend once said: If you want to climb like a monkey, eat like a monkey!

Oh and for the climbers who think that their weakness is grip strenght - for 95 % its lack of technique and fear of falling.


billcoe_


Mar 15, 2011, 7:59 AM
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iknowfear wrote:
Oh and for the climbers who think that their weakness is grip strenght - for 95 % its lack of technique and fear of falling.

I call bullshit. It's usually all 3 and only for maybe 70% of the folks out there. For the other 30% it's route and area dependent.

For all climbers, grip strength (as it relates to your body weight) is one of the more needed of the tools in the bag we should have.

Monkeys send. That is all.


spikeddem


Mar 15, 2011, 8:57 AM
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Re: [Toast_in_the_Machine] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

Years ago the middle of your body was called your midsection, stomach, gut, or maybe abs. Then some fitness marketing wiz started to use the word "core". You know, the engine room of movement. Core. Suddenly, it was everywhere. Core, core, core, core. You didn't work your abs, obliques, external abdominal oblique, or, gawd forbid, your rectus abdominis. I mean it is practically like saying rectum. No, say core. Core,core,clore,core,core.

Gawd I hate that word. You know the only thing that is stupider than "core"?

Muscle memory.
OK, well one's core refers to much more than his or her stomach. That's the exact reason why people say "core" and not "stomach." It encompasses more muscles than you listed.

Regardless, what's wrong with the term "muscle memory?" Is it not as fancy as "motor learning?"

Edit: That being said, I'm with you that this OP is lame. It's a troll, perhaps by one of the BET meanies; almost certainly by someone that is already a member of this site.

I quoted the OP not to reply, but, well you know why.

I can't stand buzz words. "Core" is no more accurate than midsection, it just sounds sexier.

And simply muscles don't have a memory.
Hmm. I've never thought of core as a buzz word. Maybe I'm too young.

Muscle memory is just a less intimidating term for "motor learning." I think most people realize that muscles don't actually have memory...


saint_john


Mar 15, 2011, 9:17 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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Haven't we concluded that Gibbons are better climbers than Gorillas? If the OP can get me Gibbon-grip I'll give him my credit card number right now.


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 15, 2011, 9:34 AM
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spikeddem wrote:
Hmm. I've never thought of core as a buzz word. Maybe I'm too young.

That's right. I'm an old man and every time I hear the phrase "core strength" I find it amusing. When I started climbing decades ago if you asked a climber what came to mind when you said "core", the reply would be "apple". But the current usage of core doesn't bother me, since language evolves and core-strength is now the term for strength in pelvic-abdominal area.

rob.calm


olderic


Mar 15, 2011, 9:55 AM
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robdotcalm wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Hmm. I've never thought of core as a buzz word. Maybe I'm too young.

That's right. I'm an old man and every time I hear the phrase "core strength" I find it amusing. When I started climbing decades ago if you asked a climber what came to mind when you said "core", the reply would be "apple". But the current usage of core doesn't bother me, since language evolves and core-strength is now the term for strength in pelvic-abdominal area.

rob.calm

u peeps mos def r not core


milesenoell


Mar 15, 2011, 9:56 AM
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Re: [Toast_in_the_Machine] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:

And simply muscles don't have a memory.

Muscles don't have memory, but "the neurons that fire together wire together" which is functionally equivalent.


Partner cracklover


Mar 15, 2011, 10:50 AM
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saint_john wrote:
Haven't we concluded that Gibbons are better climbers than Gorillas? If the OP can get me Gibbon-grip I'll give him my credit card number right now.

Me too!

Kids tease gibbon (or is the other way around?): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7_k-yBGlgo

GO


Toast_in_the_Machine


Mar 15, 2011, 11:07 AM
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milesenoell wrote:
Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:

And simply muscles don't have a memory.

Muscles don't have memory, but "the neurons that fire together wire together" which is functionally equivalent.

Since rob has blessed my official entry to geezerdom, I'll continue with some more crumudgemly comments...

If your aunt had balls she would be functionally equivalent to your uncle. The neurons aren't in your musles. "Muscle memory" is like "war of words", it is a stupid phrase. You can rationalize it away, but it doesn't make it right.

Now that I've had my harumph, back to old e's suggestion of mos def. I think Ms. Fat Ass is in my future.

Err booty. Damn, badly unhip again.


(This post was edited by Toast_in_the_Machine on Mar 15, 2011, 11:10 AM)


dynosore


Mar 15, 2011, 11:15 AM
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Wait, my kinetic chin needs to extend from my core to my fingertips? So confusing.....

How do you propose training grip strength with weights? I've trained my grip strength by gripping Crazy


Partner cracklover


Mar 15, 2011, 11:32 AM
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gripcoach wrote:
I started writing this reply on this forum in several post that ask about grip just to maybe help a little bit. So if you see it in other places, sorry but grip strength can save your life.

Realizing there is many, many questions about grip I felt is might deserve its own thread.

Dear Climbers,

I have to applaud anyone that participates in this sport. There is a lot of BS out there about weight lifting every where you look. The key to weight training for any sport is core training, kinetic chain, and muscle memory. If you do not incorporate weight training in you preparation for any type climbing you are missing out on being the best you can be. As several people have responded, the real strength comes from over all body strength especially the core. Kinetic chining comes into effect every time you use your hands. In extreme sport such as you do, extending the kinetic chin all the way down to the very finger tips is crucial. Muscle memory can only be achieved by making your muscles perform a specific movement over and over again. In your sport all around grip strength is imperative, not to mention life saving. In my opinion, it is down right inexcusable, dangerous, and just plain stupid for you guys and gals out there that climb, not to train your grip specifically. And I mean with weights.

Yours in grip work, The Grip Coach

Hey, I just realized, I think it's Slopur Lokoff from gunks.com!

Welcome to rc.n00b Slopur!

GO


itstoearly


Mar 15, 2011, 12:47 PM
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I haven't heard that many buzzwords together since I worked in the cloud computing industry where I fixed the HTML code that people used to connect to the Outlook server, which also housed the LDAP database.


md3


Mar 15, 2011, 1:13 PM
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Regardless of the reality that technique is more important than any particular strength, I for one would like to hear Mr. Grip's training suggestions for grip strength. I already spend some pretty boring time on a campus and hang board and there are definitely times when I get gripped for no other reason than dwindling grip strength while trying to get a piece in or a bolt clipped.


gripcoach


Mar 15, 2011, 4:41 PM
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Md3 I am relieved there is people out there that are serious about getting better. These first comments are directed to the close minded people on this thread. But for those like md3 the rest is for you guys and if you would like me to relay more you can do, if not Iíll spend my time teaching people that want to improve their skills.

By no means did I mean anyone here is stupid! To do the things that you guys do takes many, many smarts. You are constantly calculating angles, dealing with the laws of physics and gravity, just to name a few things you consider every moment. Not to mention you have to calculate all this in mere seconds, so to me this sport takes quite intelligent, athletic, coordinated, and courageous people. I respect anyone that chooses to become the best at their sport.

However, some of the replies remind me that, as in every sport and every forum, there are some ignorant folks on the line. For the closed minded, I say more power to you and Iíll ignore your drivel. For those with an open mind that may want to be the best they can be I offer my expertise to you. And mojomonkey there is no charge.

As for boring, strength training might be boring sometimes but I would prefer to be bored than to meet St Peter early.

First of all I use the term core because it does incorporate a multitude of areas on your body and this word makes communicating the areas without describing all the areas involves. I donít necessarily like the word either, but many people know exactly what Iím talking about when I use the term.

Second, there is such a thing as muscle memory, kinetic chain, as well as much other very important information I can relate to you if you want me to. If not, no skin of my back.

To start with there are three different types of grip humans have. Rock climbers should be concerned with all three and work all three. Pinch grip: When your thumb is on one side of an object and your fingers are on the other side and the object is pinched between them. Crushing grip: the kind you use for a hand shake or when one uses a hand gripper, or pliers. And claw Grip: the kind you use when opening a big jar.

I have a training session to get to, but here is something to try.

You can do this strength work while watching TV: These two are great for finger strength.

* This one I call ďfinger walkingĒ: Take a hammer in between the tips of your fingers with your hands in a position as if you are clapping your hands in the closed position. The head of the hammer would be facing down. Start either at the head of the hammer or at the end of the handle. Just start walking you fingers down or up the handle keeping the hammer between your fingertips. Do this up and down several times for one set. When that becomes easy, add weight to the hammer head, get a heavier hammer, or just do it with three fingers, or two fingers. Work up to being able to do it with a sledge hammer and you will have world class finger strength.

*Fine pinch work needle: Take a large knitting needle and tape some sort of light weight to the head of the needle. With the weight pointing down working one hand at a time, pinch the needle between your thumb and fingers down by the head. Release your pinch just enough to allow the needle to slip about an inch and catch it in another pinch and so on until you get the end and start again. Work the weight up a little at a time and work to do this with your thumb and single finger pinch with all of your fingers. Donít forget to work both hands.

I got to go! Talk to you next time.
-Grip Coach

Warning: Serious grip work takes time. Be careful if you are not used to real grip work because straining your tendons and ligaments to much can put you out of action for quite awhile. With any exercise I suggest start light and donít over train.


(This post was edited by gripcoach on Mar 15, 2011, 4:47 PM)


spikeddem


Mar 15, 2011, 4:56 PM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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You'd think that if grip was so correlated with mortality that fewer people would climb, wouldn't you?


gripcoach


Mar 15, 2011, 5:09 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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That is what I am trying to get across to folks. Earlier in the thread someone said thet strengthening your grip was boring and they don't do it. But if grip is crucial to your sport and it is in climbing then I think you should make it as good as posible.


gripcoach


Mar 16, 2011, 5:51 AM
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Re: [mojomonkey] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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Iíd be glad to and at no charge. This is too important to keep from people. For questions check out:

gorillawarfare.mma.gym@gmail.com

In the e-mail subject line address questions to gripcoach. Iíll try to help!


gripcoach


Mar 16, 2011, 6:13 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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I don't kknow about the %, but if you can improve your hand strength then why not. If you are a race car driver, you can race with any car. But, by adding some power to the engine you have might mean the difference to winning or losing.

All's I'm saying is there is some grreat stuff out there to icrease your climbing results.


gripcoach


Mar 16, 2011, 6:19 AM
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Re: [dynosore] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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If you are using a conventional gripper that are on the market is good and you should keep doing that. Unfortunately grippers don't incorperate the thumb and the thumb is a big key to real grip strngth


sidepull


Mar 16, 2011, 6:47 AM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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I want a t-shirt that reads:

Gripcoach gave me kinetic chin


spikeddem


Mar 16, 2011, 7:10 AM
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Re: [sidepull] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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*Plonk*

That took me way too long.


DouglasHunter


Mar 16, 2011, 7:50 AM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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gripcoach wrote:
If you are using a conventional gripper that are on the market is good and you should keep doing that. Unfortunately grippers don't incorperate the thumb and the thumb is a big key to real grip strngth


multiple choice, the grip coach is:

A) A fool with no idea what he is talking about.

b) A well intended but clueless dude.

c) A troll.

d) Doing a poor job of getting people psyched to buy his product.

e) The best source there is for kinetic chin.

f) All of the above.


jbro_135


Mar 16, 2011, 8:36 AM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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ooo ooo it's f) all of the above

what do i win???


Jooler


Mar 16, 2011, 9:17 AM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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What about crimp or open hand when NOT using the thumb? All the grips you posted earlier include the thumb.

On that note, my answer is 'f'.


gmggg


Mar 16, 2011, 9:52 AM
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Re: [saint_john] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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saint_john wrote:
Haven't we concluded that Gibbons are better climbers than Gorillas? If the OP can get me Gibbon-grip I'll give him my credit card number right now.

You'll have to start by breaking your finger bones and reshaping them into a slight curve. Then remove the second knuckle of your thumb and replace it with a ball joint.

Of course that will probably only help you in trees.


Partner cracklover


Mar 16, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Re: [gmggg] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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gmggg wrote:
saint_john wrote:
Haven't we concluded that Gibbons are better climbers than Gorillas? If the OP can get me Gibbon-grip I'll give him my credit card number right now.

You'll have to start by breaking your finger bones and reshaping them into a slight curve. Then remove the second knuckle of your thumb and replace it with a ball joint.

Of course that will probably only help you in trees.

References? I know their wrists are constructed differently, but their thumbs? Really?

And as an adaptation...
In reply to:
Gibbons have shoulder flexors, extensors, rotator muscles and elbow flexors with a high power or work-generating capacity and their wrist flexors have a high force-generating capacity. Compared with other primates, the elbow flexors of gibbons are particularly powerful...*

... would make a superb climber of anything.

GO

* http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19519640


gmggg


Mar 16, 2011, 10:41 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
gmggg wrote:
saint_john wrote:
Haven't we concluded that Gibbons are better climbers than Gorillas? If the OP can get me Gibbon-grip I'll give him my credit card number right now.

You'll have to start by breaking your finger bones and reshaping them into a slight curve. Then remove the second knuckle of your thumb and replace it with a ball joint.

Of course that will probably only help you in trees.

References? I know their wrists are constructed differently, but their thumbs? Really?

And as an adaptation...
In reply to:
Gibbons have shoulder flexors, extensors, rotator muscles and elbow flexors with a high power or work-generating capacity and their wrist flexors have a high force-generating capacity. Compared with other primates, the elbow flexors of gibbons are particularly powerful...*

... would make a superb climber of anything.

GO

* http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19519640

http://www.jstor.org/pss/671518

But to be fair, I was incorrect about the ball and socket joint vs. hinge joint on the thumb it is at the wrist joint, not the second knuckle.


gmggg


Mar 16, 2011, 10:48 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
gmggg wrote:
saint_john wrote:
Haven't we concluded that Gibbons are better climbers than Gorillas? If the OP can get me Gibbon-grip I'll give him my credit card number right now.

You'll have to start by breaking your finger bones and reshaping them into a slight curve. Then remove the second knuckle of your thumb and replace it with a ball joint.

Of course that will probably only help you in trees.

References? I know their wrists are constructed differently, but their thumbs? Really?

And as an adaptation...
In reply to:
Gibbons have shoulder flexors, extensors, rotator muscles and elbow flexors with a high power or work-generating capacity and their wrist flexors have a high force-generating capacity. Compared with other primates, the elbow flexors of gibbons are particularly powerful...*

... would make a superb climber of anything.

GO

* http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19519640

Ooh. Here's another good page, with lots of pictures...

http://www.gibbons.de/...apter_english01.html


DouglasHunter


Mar 16, 2011, 10:58 AM
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jbro_135 wrote:
ooo ooo it's f) all of the above

what do i win???

As you read this you will notice your forearms swelling, your fingers getting impossibly long, and your skin getting leathery. Your prize is that you are now bestowed with Gorilla Grip. Good work my son, go forth and climb . . . trees.


gmggg


Mar 16, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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DouglasHunter wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
ooo ooo it's f) all of the above

what do i win???

As you read this you will notice your forearms swelling, your fingers getting impossibly long, and your skin getting leathery. Your prize is that you are now bestowed with Gorilla Grip. Good work my son, go forth and climb . . . trees.

Guerrillas aren't especially good at climbing trees.


jt512


Mar 16, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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I knew from your first post, when you used the term "grip" instead of "finger strength," that you didn't know what you were talking about, but I couldn't prove it.

Now I can:

gripcoach wrote:
To start with there are three different types of grip humans have. Rock climbers should be concerned with all three and work all three. Pinch grip: When your thumb is on one side of an object and your fingers are on the other side and the object is pinched between them. Crushing grip: the kind you use for a hand shake or when one uses a hand gripper, or pliers. And claw Grip: the kind you use when opening a big jar.

I'm not sure what you're selling, but I'm sure you'll let us know soon.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 16, 2011, 11:18 AM)


jt512


Mar 16, 2011, 11:20 AM
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spikeddem wrote:
*Plonk*

That took me way too long.

You cam improve that with training.

-Killfilecoach


spikeddem


Mar 16, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Re: [jt512] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
*Plonk*

That took me way too long.

You cam improve that with training.

-Killfilecoach

Perhaps I should pick up a copy of The Self-Coached Killfiler on Amazon.


gripcoach


Mar 16, 2011, 11:54 AM
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Re: [jt512] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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I'm selling nothing! I thought that someone might be interested in grip training, but I was mistaken. Most of you are just a bunch of jerk offs. Not worth my time. I have real athletes to train.


sungam


Mar 16, 2011, 12:03 PM
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gripcoach wrote:
I'm selling nothing! I thought that someone might be interested in grip training, but I was mistaken. Most of you are just a bunch of jerk offs. Not worth my time. I have real athletes to train.
Real SHIT athletes!

bwahahahahaha! I am SO F*CKING FUNNY!!!!!!!


dynosore


Mar 16, 2011, 12:31 PM
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gripcoach wrote:
I'm selling nothing! I thought that someone might be interested in grip training, but I was mistaken. Most of you are just a bunch of jerk offs. Not worth my time. I have real athletes to train.

now you're trying too hard.


jt512


Mar 16, 2011, 12:31 PM
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gripcoach wrote:
I'm selling nothing! I thought that someone might be interested in grip training, but I was mistaken. Most of you are just a bunch of jerk offs. Not worth my time. I have real athletes to train.

Actually, it is you who is not worth our time. Please go to a website whose athletes could use your help. Bowling.com comes to mind.

Jay


gmggg


Mar 16, 2011, 12:50 PM
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jt512 wrote:
gripcoach wrote:
I'm selling nothing! I thought that someone might be interested in grip training, but I was mistaken. Most of you are just a bunch of jerk offs. Not worth my time. I have real athletes to train.

Actually, it is you who is not worth our time. Please go to a website whose athletes could use your help. Bowling.com comes to mind.

Jay

But he might end up crushing their balls with his mighty mighty gorilla grip.


Toast_in_the_Machine


Mar 16, 2011, 1:25 PM
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jt512 wrote:
gripcoach wrote:
I'm selling nothing! I thought that someone might be interested in grip training, but I was mistaken. Most of you are just a bunch of jerk offs. Not worth my time. I have real athletes to train.

Actually, it is you who is not worth our time. Please go to a website whose athletes could use your help. Bowling.com comes to mind.

Jay

Sloper grip
http://m.youtube.com/...l7VeIcVj7o&gl=US


flesh


Mar 16, 2011, 2:44 PM
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I've read through a bit of this. In the past I used different level grip devices.

At worst they don't seem to apply to climbing. At best, it would be better to campus on pinches to improve thumb/pinch strength, and better to campus for finger strength.

I tried them i really did! Didn't notice anything.

However, an easy one is great to get the hands warmed up and the blood flowing while driving to climbing.

Does grip coach climb? Or is he MMA guy?


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 16, 2011, 5:05 PM
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John Brookfield has devoted a lot of time to studying grip strength. His two books cover the area rather completely. The ďMasteryĒ book has a lot of fun exercises in it even if most of them do not enhance oneís climbing ability. So if anybody is still reading this and interested in grip strength itís worth taking a look at these books. And Ironmind has no end of grip enhancing devices, which may not help your climbing but you can impress people at parties by bending nails.

http://ironmind-store.com/...al/productinfo/1283/

http://ironmind-store.com/...on/productinfo/1273/

Cheers,
Rob.calm


billcoe_


Mar 17, 2011, 9:01 AM
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To those who don't want to hear the man out and already know it all, go someplace else so that those who want can have a grown up discussion.


md3


Mar 17, 2011, 10:30 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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One of the reasons I used to like the climbing community was that it was made up of mostly good people. Reliably decent and often interesting individuals. Its still mostly true when I get out beyond the gym like areas. Someone who might not have a climbing specific training background offers some thoughts on a particular type of training and you think that's a good reason to give them a hard time? Who are you people?
As to different types of strength: I have wondered if the tendentious I have had at times wasn't due in part to training that was too climbing specific. You can always learn something from other people if you are willing to be a little bit open. Using some minor feeling you have of being "in" a group because you know some basics about it to justify being rude to someone in order to bolster your own self esteem in some way is pretty pathetic. The climbing community I have always respected so much has always valued decency as a person over any particular set of climbing skills or expertise.


wwalt822


Mar 17, 2011, 11:03 AM
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md3 wrote:
One of the reasons I used to like the climbing community was that it was made up of mostly good people. Reliably decent and often interesting individuals. Its still mostly true when I get out beyond the gym like areas. Someone who might not have a climbing specific training background offers some thoughts on a particular type of training and you think that's a good reason to give them a hard time? Who are you people?
As to different types of strength: I have wondered if the tendentious I have had at times wasn't due in part to training that was too climbing specific. You can always learn something from other people if you are willing to be a little bit open. Using some minor feeling you have of being "in" a group because you know some basics about it to justify being rude to someone in order to bolster your own self esteem in some way is pretty pathetic. The climbing community I have always respected so much has always valued decency as a person over any particular set of climbing skills or expertise.

Gorilla gripper is obviously full of shit and deserves all of the flaming he has gotten. He isn't even a climber so why would he assume that he can help climbers without first doing a lot of research. It takes a special kind of person to try to go into an area where they have no expertise and then claim to be able to save our lives with some grip training exercises.


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Mar 17, 2011, 11:11 AM)


redlude97


Mar 17, 2011, 11:41 AM
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md3 wrote:
One of the reasons I used to like the climbing community was that it was made up of mostly good people. Reliably decent and often interesting individuals. Its still mostly true when I get out beyond the gym like areas. Someone who might not have a climbing specific training background offers some thoughts on a particular type of training and you think that's a good reason to give them a hard time? Who are you people?
As to different types of strength: I have wondered if the tendentious I have had at times wasn't due in part to training that was too climbing specific. You can always learn something from other people if you are willing to be a little bit open. Using some minor feeling you have of being "in" a group because you know some basics about it to justify being rude to someone in order to bolster your own self esteem in some way is pretty pathetic. The climbing community I have always respected so much has always valued decency as a person over any particular set of climbing skills or expertise.
Maybe if you had read training guides from other climbers, instead of following bozos like the OP you wouldn't have this problem. Never heard of antagonistic training?


DouglasHunter


Mar 17, 2011, 12:16 PM
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flesh wrote:
In the past I used different level grip devices. At worst they don't seem to apply to climbing.

At best or at worst they do not apply to climbing. Hand trainers that you have to squeeze will have no impact on the type of forearm strength needed for climbing. This is a settled issue and has been for some time. The climbing community is slow to pick up on it, but hand exercisers do not work. The French have known this for about 30 years, the American research community figured it out about 15 years ago, but somehow the word has not really gotten out to climbers.


milesenoell


Mar 17, 2011, 12:38 PM
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gripcoach wrote:
If you are using a conventional gripper that are on the market is good and you should keep doing that. Unfortunately grippers don't incorperate the thumb and the thumb is a big key to real grip strngth

The irony to me is that in MMA grip strength really can be the difference between between being in control and getting pounded on.

BUT, it's also well understood that hand size and finger length are arguably more important than strength. But you can't train for big hands.


ceebo


Mar 17, 2011, 1:36 PM
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DouglasHunter wrote:
flesh wrote:
In the past I used different level grip devices. At worst they don't seem to apply to climbing.

At best or at worst they do not apply to climbing. Hand trainers that you have to squeeze will have no impact on the type of forearm strength needed for climbing. This is a settled issue and has been for some time. The climbing community is slow to pick up on it, but hand exercisers do not work. The French have known this for about 30 years, the American research community figured it out about 15 years ago, but somehow the word has not really gotten out to climbers.

What about go karting? i done allot of this as a teen, one of the first things i noticed was how heavy it was on forearms. Would the contractions in corners not be isometric?. Climbing is the only activity i have done since that resembled similar forearm fatigue. But perhaps not quite similar enough.


lazymonkey


Mar 25, 2011, 10:27 PM
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lmfao @ gripcoach

you gotta be kidding

is he related to a certain nigerian prince who only needs about $1,285.43 so he can access his inheritance of 400 million?


dindolino32


Apr 24, 2011, 9:45 AM
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When anonymous online, it's easy to be critical and banter for no reason. It seems like the hammer thing would strengthen the intrinsic muscles of the hand. Intrinsic should be the new hyped word BTW. I'm gonna try it as there would be little harm to trying it. Maybe it won't improve my climbing, but maybe it could prevent an injury or something.


altelis


Apr 24, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Re: [Toast_in_the_Machine] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:

And simply muscles don't have a memory.

Muscles don't have memory, but "the neurons that fire together wire together" which is functionally equivalent.

Since rob has blessed my official entry to geezerdom, I'll continue with some more crumudgemly comments...

If your aunt had balls she would be functionally equivalent to your uncle. The neurons aren't in your musles. "Muscle memory" is like "war of words", it is a stupid phrase. You can rationalize it away, but it doesn't make it right.

Now that I've had my harumph, back to old e's suggestion of mos def. I think Ms. Fat Ass is in my future.

Err booty. Damn, badly unhip again.

Just as a PSA- concrete thinking has very high specificity as an indicator of psychosis. Being annoyed by a phrase because it isn't representative of concrete thinking isn't far off....


The best part? Understanding concrete thinking requires none.


climber49er


Apr 29, 2011, 1:30 PM
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Grips need coaches? [In reply to]
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I never would have guessed that someone would specialize in gripping. How odd to me.


Toast_in_the_Machine


Apr 29, 2011, 2:05 PM
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Re: [climber49er] Grips need coaches? [In reply to]
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climber49er wrote:
I never would have guessed that someone would specialize in gripping. How odd to me.

I know of whole sites that specialize in griping, does that count?


jomagam


Apr 29, 2011, 2:29 PM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hand trainers that you have to squeeze will have no impact on the type of forearm strength needed for climbing.

How about using them solely for warming up?


jjones16


May 21, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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I expected to see an actual program when I clicked on this post. You mean to tell me that you started a thread to tell rock climbers that grip strength is important? What a revelation. Thanks for your insight.


puravida9539


May 25, 2011, 7:59 PM
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Re: [jjones16] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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Some MMA and BJJ people do forearm curls with weight lifting plates while holding the plate with just the fingers. I would be interested in seeing if something like this could help with the grip strength and forearm strength required for climbing.


Baristologist


May 29, 2011, 9:43 PM
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Re: [Toast_in_the_Machine] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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or the word stupider lol


nopainogain


Jun 1, 2011, 8:28 AM
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Re: [gripcoach] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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this is going to sound contradictory on a lot of levels or at least counter-intuitive but the best ways i have seen to improving grip strength are exercises that challenge the slow-twitch muscles of the forearm to maintain static contraction for extended periods. be the opposite of a bodybuilder.. i see these guys at the gym using lifting straps to deadlift and shrug then crying about their small forearms. NO STRAPS. lifting straps remove effort from the forearm in exercises where these are not the target. If you want them to grow strength you have to beat them up a little. heavy shrugs, heavy deadlifts and hold the bar between reps and sets. i also alternate releasing the bar with one or two fingers from the hands so that the demand is increased on the remaining two. 100lb bar hanging from your hands by your index and middle fingers for 50-60 seconds will hurt like you wanna die but you will achieve grip strength.


bmylius


Jun 10, 2011, 6:22 AM
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Re: [nopainogain] Get a grip like a Gorilla. [In reply to]
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nopainogain wrote:
this is going to sound contradictory on a lot of levels or at least counter-intuitive but the best ways i have seen to improving grip strength are exercises that challenge the slow-twitch muscles of the forearm to maintain static contraction for extended periods. be the opposite of a bodybuilder.. i see these guys at the gym using lifting straps to deadlift and shrug then crying about their small forearms. NO STRAPS. lifting straps remove effort from the forearm in exercises where these are not the target. If you want them to grow strength you have to beat them up a little. heavy shrugs, heavy deadlifts and hold the bar between reps and sets. i also alternate releasing the bar with one or two fingers from the hands so that the demand is increased on the remaining two. 100lb bar hanging from your hands by your index and middle fingers for 50-60 seconds will hurt like you wanna die but you will achieve grip strength.
Amen! I do open-handed shrugs via a shrug-machine (put the weight on that you'd like and grab the bar for lifting) and incorporate static holds. Since you can adjust the weight and how long you hold the risk of injury is reduced (you can easily release the bar safely). 100% right about losing straps for everything. If you can't hold it... anyway I'll save that rant.


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