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Spikeddem goes west
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spikeddem


Mar 31, 2011, 7:24 AM
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Spikeddem goes west
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The time is here, my good buddies. Today I leave for the West. I'm not exactly sure of the places I'll be going, but I've got a (quite) loosely planned itinerary. I tell people I expect it to be two and half months long, but it could be a month less or a month more; I just don't have a clue.

  • I may stop in Colorado on the way to Indian Creek. After I get to the creek sometime this weekend, I'll stay there for maybe 2-3 weeks.

  • After Indian Creek, I'll stop by Red Rock for a week or something like that.

  • After Red Rock, it'll maybe be Southern California for a week or two: Bishop/Owens River Gorge / Joshua Tree

  • Following that, it'll be Yosemite...!

  • And then north to Smith Rock

  • Finally, perhaps I'll make my way to Squamish
  • .

    It'll be interesting to see how everything works out in comparison to how I've loosely predicted it here.

    All that being said, feel free to PM me or post in here if you'd like to meet up and climb in any of the areas you'll be in. Whatever you're interested in, I'll be down for. Trad, sport, or bouldering. I decided not to bother bringing my own pad, so I'd have to graciously mooch off anyone else, but hopefully that's alright. I'm certainly down for meeting at areas outside of what has been listed here.

    I'll be posting updates and pictures to this thread maybe once a week or something? I guess whenever I make it into town/have internet.

    -Joel


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Mar 31, 2011, 7:25 AM)


    caughtinside


    Mar 31, 2011, 8:14 AM
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    That is a really fun sounding trip, take lots of photos.

    Think about pit stopping at Lover's Leap in south lake tahoe on your way north from yosemite, it's a terrific crag.


    ENARE


    Mar 31, 2011, 9:00 AM
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    Have a good one man! I would love a trip like that. I am lucky if I can get down to Jtree for the weekend let alone be away from my 9 to 5 for a month.


    rock_fencer


    Mar 31, 2011, 10:18 AM
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    take a day or two from yosemite and hit up the Cali Needles, you wont be dissapointed!


    snoopy138


    Mar 31, 2011, 11:26 AM
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    rock_fencer wrote:
    take a day or two from yosemite and hit up the Cali Needles, you wont be dissapointed!

    road to the needles won't be open yet, especially with this year's snowfall. obviously, you can still hike in along the road (or from the lower road), but it's more of a pain in the ass. and you'd want to stay for a while to get the full advantage of caching your gear.


    potreroed


    Mar 31, 2011, 12:13 PM
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    Sounds like an ambitious plan. Have fun and be safe.


    bearbreeder


    Mar 31, 2011, 12:33 PM
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    squamish is very climbable if the weather is good for a few days right now

    if that fails and yr in bc ... hit up skaha ... prime climbing season right now


    malcolm777b


    Mar 31, 2011, 1:16 PM
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    You're not going to stop at the best granite crag on the West Coast?


    silascl


    Mar 31, 2011, 2:50 PM
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    caughtinside wrote:
    That is a really fun sounding trip, take lots of photos.

    Think about pit stopping at Lover's Leap in south lake tahoe on your way north from yosemite, it's a terrific crag.

    Depending on travel dates tioga pass may not be open yet, in which case the drive from bishop to yosemite will take him right by lover's leap. You know this, spikeddem might not.


    notapplicable


    Mar 31, 2011, 3:12 PM
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    Another case of old fashioned coastism, I see.

    Thats fine, we folks here on the right coast didn't to rope up with you anyway.


    Jooler


    Apr 1, 2011, 8:38 AM
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    If you make it up to BC, let me know.

    Have a great trip.


    (This post was edited by Jooler on Apr 1, 2011, 8:39 AM)


    spikeddem


    Apr 8, 2011, 11:14 AM
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    notapplicable wrote:
    Another case of old fashioned coastism, I see.

    Thats fine, we folks here on the right coast didn't to rope up with you anyway.

    Well, I'm moving to the Cincinnati for five years in a few months, so give me a break wanting to climb in the West before I climb in the East for a long time!


    saint_john


    Apr 8, 2011, 11:26 AM
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    pics or it didn't happen.


    spikeddem


    Apr 8, 2011, 11:48 AM
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    saint_john wrote:
    pics or it didn't happen.

    This is a good point. The pictures I've got so far aren't that great, since I've only been climbing with one other person. They'll be up in my next post.


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 8, 2011, 11:50 AM)


    spikeddem


    Apr 8, 2011, 12:08 PM
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    My drive out here from Minnesota was decent. I started it out with a short--but hungover--drive to Iowa to stay with some friends near Des Moines for the night. I woke up the next morning and headed out on the road around 10:00 AM. About two hours into the drive, I heard a funky noise coming from beneath my car as I drove along I-80 West just past Omaha. As I exited and slowed down, the sound got more and more heinous. It became clear that aluminum was dragging against the ground. Rather nervous, I pulled over into the strip mall that happened to be conveniently located right at the exit. Apparently, the plastic protective undercarriage cover had fallen off. A sigh of relief, indeed. I walked over to a (yet again) conveniently located tool store and picked up a socket set to take off the bits of the carriage that had not already broken off. Tossed 'em into the back, and continued on the road.

    Ten hours later, not having found myself yawning yet, I entered the Rockies. The signs may have said 65 or 70 mph, but nobody was going over 20 or 30 mph. The driving definitely kept me alert, and falling asleep was a complete non-issue. Once through the mountains, I pulled over to a rest stop for a nap. About an hour later, I woke up feeling rather the apparent effects of food poisoning--which isn't exactly the most enjoyable thing to go through while at a rest stop. I ended up driving to a nearby hotel for the night. Glad I did. By the next morning I was feeling fine and ready to complete my trip to my first desintation: Indian Creek.

    After a few more hours of driving, a bit of grocery shopping, and filling up a propane tank, I was past Moab and on my way to Indian Creek.

    [Apparently I just accidentally deleted the photo I planned to put here. Oh well. No biggie. Pretend you see snow mountains in the background of sandstone formations.]

    I arrived at the creek, set up my tent, met my partner with whom I'll be climbing for the next month or two, Lee, and prepared for the climbing tomorrow.


    spikeddem


    Apr 8, 2011, 12:33 PM
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    On Tuesday I did my first climbs. I ended up doing five different pitches. Two of the pitches I led, and the other three I just top-roped.

    After discussing which crag to head to, Lee and I settled on Scarface. I started out with a 5.10a hand crack called Wavy Gravy. I on-sighted it; intimidated by the bulges to which I am rather unaccustomed in my crack climbing career. I definitely found myself climbing slowly, as it had been about a year exactly since I last found myself either climbing trad or climbing crack.


    Wavy Gravy from the base.

    After this, I top-roped a climb that can be seen in the background of the Wavy Gravy picture, a route called Mantel Illness, which featured a bit of a face climbing, a bit of hand jamming, and a bit of thumb stacking action. After Mantel Illness, I on-sighted a short unnamed 5.9/+ route, which merely said "awkward" in its plaque at the base. Enjoyable, I suppose, but also a bit forgettable due to its brevity.

    After these three climbs, it was time for lunch, and also time to chase down some shade. The sunburn had begun. Following lunch, we chased down some shade and met up with some people in the Big Guy area of Scarface. Lee led up a nearby unnamed 10+ crack of thumb stacks. I hung the heck out of it as I learned how to properly thumbstack. After this, despite being tired and sunburned, I decided to climb Big Guy, a 120' 5.11- off-width route which a nearby party had put up for everyone to top-rope. Wow. What an introduction to off-width climbing for me. Made it to the top using legitimate (a.k.a. non-lieback) techniques, but definitely had to sit on the rope a good number of times before finally figuring out how to properly stack my fingers and hands together to fill the void of the crack while jamming my knee in it. I have to admit, OW was actually kind of enjoyable--but, of course, I was top-roping it.

    This route marked the end of nice day of climbing, and provided a nice view of just a tiny portion of the Creek to finish off the first day in the Creek.




    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 8, 2011, 1:49 PM)
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    notapplicable


    Apr 8, 2011, 1:08 PM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    notapplicable wrote:
    Another case of old fashioned coastism, I see.

    Thats fine, we folks here on the right coast didn't to rope up with you anyway.

    Well, I'm moving to the Cincinnati for five years in a few months, so give me a break wanting to climb in the West before I climb in the East for a long time!

    I'm just jealous that you're out West climbing the big stuff and I'm stuck back east staring down the barrel of a humid summer. Have fun dude!

    Oh and Wavy Gravy looks pretty wild, I'd get on that.


    spikeddem


    Apr 8, 2011, 1:20 PM
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    The next day (4/6) was rather uneventful. Although Lee found some people to climb with, I was feeling too sunburned and just generally fatigued from the sun and climbing and hiking of the day before. I did nothing. I suppose that's not entirely true. I moved my tent. I read. I sat. Enjoyed being in a nice quiet little tent.

    Although I didn't think much of it at the time, I also noticed a bit of sand creep in. Didn't think much of it, and decided that I must have brought it in on my own. Oops, no big deal. After cleaning it up, I made some dinner and headed off for dreams of the cracks to be climbed the following day.

    Although the weather was supposed to be pretty iffy (indeed, it had driven many others out of camp and the creek in general), upon opening my eyes I was greeted by the morning sun shining into my tent. Lee and I stopped off at the parking lot for Donnelly Canyon. As we arrived, we saw that Generic Crack was taken by the only other car in the parking lot. We continued down to Binou's Crack, an enjoyable 5.9 corner crack consisting of stemming fingers to a wide section near the top. I led it on-sight without much trouble, and we kept heading further down the trail.

    We arrived to find a group just finishing up on Elephant Man. This 80' 5.10- vaired crack system reminded me of climbs like those at The Dairy Queen Wall at Joshua Tree. Another on-sight to add to my back with Elephant Man. I was beginning to find myself leading routes more and more quickly as I was finding my groove. Following this route, I led a nearby classic called Chocolate Corner. This is a thin hands crack in a right-facing corner. With my size hands, this route definitely felt more 5.9+, and I most definitely found myself doing a couple ring locks to pull through some tighter spots. On-sighted this, but it felt right on par with Elephant Man. I probably enjoyed Elephant Man more.


    Generic Crack, right above the climbers racking up.

    We then hiked down to Generic Crack, 5.10-, and found it deserted. I climbed it first, made it through the lower crux, and only had to pound through the dreamy golden camalot sized crack for the next 80 feet. After pulling through about 15 feet or so, I noticed I only had an ill-sized friend (about a half size too small) and three blue (#3) camalots left on my rack. I looked ahead, trying to spot any variations in the next twenty feet that might allow me to place my small friend or my larger-sized camalots. Nothing. I hungout out my handjam for as long as I could bare. Weighing my different options: Running it out and hoping for a #3 placement within 15 or so feet, down climbing to a #2 camalot and bumping it up the crack for God-Knows-How-Far, and lowering off. I decided to go with the safe play, and lowered off. After I lowered off, Lee led up the climb and finished it out; his comfort level allowed him to space out the gear at a much larger interval, and he also squeezed in a #3 camalot near where I had wasted a #2. As Lee rappelled, I looked in the book for the gear recommendation. In addition to the smaller pieces I had brought, it suggests eight number #2s, of which I had only brought five (which was all that Lee and I have), and an optional #3. Shucks. A big disappointment, since I really wanted to tick off another on-sight, but, hey, live and learn, right?

    We then TR'd a short tips crack/face climb. This was the variation of The Naked and the Dead. A fingery, crimpy, balancy bottom leads to easy climbing up top. The bottom even made me feel like I was back at Barn Bluff in MN, climbing two number grades easier on an inverted version of the classic Perfect Crimb.

    Following this, Lee eyed up a route called Fuel-Injected Hard Body, but decided to leave it for another day. Expect to see a bit about Lee getting on this in the coming weeks.

    After this wonderful day of leading while using many of the techniques I'd learned while top-roping the previous day, I came back to my campsite to find this:



    My new sand-filled tent.

    Apparently, the wind blowing through campground throughout the night had blown sand under the rain-fly and through the mesh, leaving it right inside my tent. After cleaning out the sand, I took a blanket and some extra 3' slings and covered the mesh on the East side of my tent. Despite high winds only a bit of sand found its way in during the night, and the tent stayed much cleaner.


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 8, 2011, 1:54 PM)
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    curt


    Apr 8, 2011, 6:43 PM
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    If you get anywhere near Arizona, I will be happy to school your n00b ass show you a few boulder problems that you may find amusing. Cool

    Curt


    donald949


    Apr 14, 2011, 12:44 PM
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    Cool TR so far. Well done on the climbing.
    Re sand in the tents.
    I have noticed that most tents now have the mesh windows without being able to zipper it closed with a nylon panel. Which I'm not to partial to. I like putting up the tent on moderate days with out the fly, but that arangement doesn't give you any privacy.
    And Apparently, even with the fly it doesn't keep the dumb sand out. Mad


    caughtinside


    Apr 14, 2011, 1:33 PM
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    Fun TR. I've done all the climbs you have listed so far and they are all quality. That thumb stack thing left of big guy is harder than 10+ though. Big Guy is a classic, runs you through all the sizes.

    If you go back to Donnelly, give Dos Hermanos a try, not so bad for the grade and you don't need a ton of any one size. 4 purple camalots and less of everything else.

    You aren't the first group to not have enough #2s for Generic.

    Also, stay out of the sun, it will destroy you out there. Check out 4x4 for some good shade, and 2nd Meat.


    spikeddem


    Apr 14, 2011, 2:44 PM
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    donald949 wrote:
    Cool TR so far. Well done on the climbing.
    Re sand in the tents.
    I have noticed that most tents now have the mesh windows without being able to zipper it closed with a nylon panel. Which I'm not to partial to. I like putting up the tent on moderate days with out the fly, but that arangement doesn't give you any privacy.
    And Apparently, even with the fly it doesn't keep the dumb sand out. Mad

    Yeah, it's fairly annoying. A nice nylon panel to zip closed would have solved all of my problems. Oh well. My hanging blanket strategy worked really quite well for all but the strongest gusts of wind.

    caughtinside wrote:
    If you go back to Donnelly, give Dos Hermanos a try, not so bad for the grade and you don't need a ton of any one size. 4 purple camalots and less of everything else.

    The day before I showed up, my partner, Lee, led Dos Hermanos. I don't know how he did, but he kept talking about it over and over!

    In reply to:
    Also, stay out of the sun, it will destroy you out there. Check out 4x4 for some good shade, and 2nd Meat.

    We actually found ourselves sun-chasing this last week, 'twas suuuper chilly in the shade.


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 14, 2011, 3:22 PM)


    spikeddem


    Apr 14, 2011, 3:15 PM
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    Last friday I was in the Moab Library, which is where I am again. The following day was overcast and rainy (with a bit of snow even). We ended up having nice climbing days Sunday-Wednesday. Also, Lee and I ended up climbing a lot with two fellas named Matt and Cameron who have been on an extended trip since January, and are just about to head to Yosemite. My body didn't want to climb a fourth day in a row, so here's a report from the three climbing days I've had this week!

    Sunday, April 10th, 2011

    We had planned on heading to Way Rambo, but after arriving at the base and seeing a group of 13 hiking up, we headed further south for the Pistol Whipped area.

    I had plans for a number of climbs at Way Rambo, so I was a bit disappointed in the change of plans, but was able to live with it once I saw Jolly Rancher. This beast (140') of a single pitch climb is dominated mostly by hands, both perfect and cupped, finishes with 20 feet of fingers, and is guarded at the base by a short, but challenging section of thin hands.


    140' feet of 5.10 hands, fingers, and even a knee jam

    Seriously, this is probably the most rewarding climb I've ever done. I was psyched out by the amount of gear I was brining, the start, and the length (I'm from MN, I climb 30' to 50' at a time, thank you very much).


    Me, through the thin hands start, enjoying some perfect hand jams.

    From the base of Jolly Rancher, we all saw this:


    A boulder, peculiarly perched atop a mud tower, seemed worthy of a picture to me.

    Following the group's success on Jolly Rancher, Lee hopped on a impressive looking line, Sig Sauer. This 5.12 finger crack was kinder to Lee than it looked like it would be from the bottom. Tiny feet--hidden at the base--gave him all he needed to get the climb clean. I hangdogged on TR, but did every move. It was definitely a unique experience climbing such a vertical finger crack...thank god there were feet for me (except for the difficult last 8' or so!).


    Lee crushing it on Sig Sauer

    I finished up the day with a climb called Dusty Trails to Nowhere. Either I was feeling good from Jolly Rancher, or my hands fit this 5.10 crack perfectly, because it was by far the fastest climb I did in the creek, and it felt 5.8 to me. Consisting of perfect hands in a corner for like 40' (the guidebook and MP seem to overestimate a lot of heights at the Creek--60'? Ha, yeah right), this climb was cruiser!


    Lee rapping Dusty Trails after our last climb of the day.


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 14, 2011, 3:18 PM)
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    spikeddem


    Apr 14, 2011, 3:51 PM
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    Monday, April 11th, 2011

    Huzzah! Today we made it to the Way Rambo crag. The group of thirteen people we saw the day before did not beat us to the area today. Yet . . . we saw an even larger group heading up the base of the trail once we finished the approach. The large group mostly TR'd a bunch of off width stuff, so they were never really a hassle.

    The plan was to warm up on a climb called Blue Sun, but it was taken, so I moved on to hop on a very fun line dubbed The Monk. The climb begins immediately with some fist jams and cupped hands, climbs into a pod, and then continues on for about 25'-30' feet staying around the perfect hands zone. That leads to a thought-provoking move involving (for me) a low, left hand jam and a high right hand reach above a boulder stuck like chockstone in a pod. The anchors were guarded by some serious thumb stacking. The comment in the MP.com description, which states that "[c]onvincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route" hits the nail on the head. A fun route, indeed! . . . Definitely thought I was going to blow it at the anchors, but managed a clean onsight.


    The Monk, looking clean.

    Lee hopped on a Way Rambo classic called Slice and Dice. This 55' 5.12 is completely jam packed of thumbstacking madness. If you want to learn how to thumb stack, this climb will teach you how. Having looked forward to getting on Slice and Dice since his last effort two years ago, Lee dispatched it . . . making it look like no big deal. I quickly learned that it was much harder than his cruising made it appear:


    Lee Slicing and Dicing his way up a classic

    My hangdogging up it involved adding more bruises to my knees, and learning that I apparently didn't know how to thumbstack quite as well as I thought I did. Surprisingly, the roof moves were probably the easiest (that's coming from someone that hangdogged it, and didn't have to deal with a pump).

    I finished off the day with a ridiculous splitter called Blue Sun. There's not really much more that can be said about this climb than a picture shows of it: It's super fun, straightforward 5.10a handjamming goodness!


    Like I said, the photo sums up the whole climb, you just have to add another 65' feet!
    Attachments: TheMonk_empty.jpg (131 KB)
      Lee_SliceandDice.jpg (85.7 KB)
      me_BlueSun.jpg (111 KB)


    caughtinside


    Apr 14, 2011, 3:59 PM
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    Thanks for the photos. Jolly Rancher is one of the best. Blue Sun is nice too. Way Rambo is one of the most Rambo routes out there, and the wall has the crowds to prove it.


    Gmburns2000


    Apr 14, 2011, 4:13 PM
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    Nice bro. Keep it coming!


    spikeddem


    Apr 14, 2011, 5:13 PM
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    Tuesday, April 12th, 2011

    My fifth climbing day of the trip. Today, I decided I wanted to hit some of the classics--Supercrack Buttress day! I had made it a goal for myself to onsight four or five 5.10's today, and I felt ready and pumped to do it.

    Although it was supposed to be a rest day for Matt and Cameron, Cameron had not done Supercrack despite having been on the buttress five other times.

    Cameron, Lee, and I headed up the very short approach to discover an unlikely sight: a completely empty Incredible Hand Crack. Wasting little time, I borrowed all the gold camalots I needed to supplement my own from Cameron and Lee, and I headed up.

    The route is, well, incredible. My entire rack consisted of gold camalots--perfect hands! This 5.10 is just 100 feet of hand jams through vertical terrain with a fantastic bulge in the bottom third. Of the routes I've led at the creek, I've given four stars to only two so far: Jolly Rancher and Incredible Hand Crack. I actually got in some bonus climbing when I found myself wishing for another gold camalot. I ended up down climbing to remove a previous piece and then climbing back up to finish it out.


    Plugging before the chugging!

    After that ridiculously enjoyable onsight, the group headed down to Supercrack a.k.a. Supercrack of the Desert: "The climb that started it all."


    Cameron, making quick work of the Supercrack

    For those that don't know, this uberclassic desert splitter was originally sent on hexes. Here's a shot I took from above . . . how many placements for hexes can you spot? Pirate



    I was able to get the route clean, and I enjoyed it, but it lacked personality. My journal entry sums it up: "Fun for the history, but generic and un-intriguing." My opinion of the Supercrack did not make me popular around the campfire that night!


    There is a tradition of placing plaques formed by etching route information into broken off blocks near the bottom of classic routes. This stylish looking one seems fitting of what was the first supercrack of the desert!

    We hiked in the direction of a climb called 3 AM Crack, which was to be my next 5.10 to fall as I worked towards my goal, but found it occupied. I recalled a similar 5.10 being just a bit further down. We continued hiking and found the climb, No Name Crack, empty. I racked up lots of #2 camalots, bunches of #3 camalots, and a couple #4 camalots for this route. I even brought a red camalot and a red link cam just in case they had a spot that I would be able to place one to save myself a bigger cam for this long (115') route.

    After cruising through the first 70' I found a no hands rest, and milked it until my my hands were ready to jam some more. This was almost the only part of the route (except the anchors) that had any opportunities for stemming.

    About 10 slightly-overhanging feet from there, I found myself barely making my way past a small pod, which had solid handjams, but only if I reached in really deep, making it a bit awkward and more stressful than I had hoped. Once I got my feet in it, my hands seemed to be in a section that, for me, lied somewhere perfectly between cupped hands and fists. This short, but thrutch-encouraging (read: technique vanished, just did whatever stressful position my body could adopt to get through it) section was extremely tiresome. I knew that if I could just get up a few more feet the good cupped hands would return, and I'd be able to once again get more weight onto my feet (currently because of the slight overhang and the awkward pod, I could hardly put as much weight onto my feet as I wanted). I moved up my hand into a jam--Yes! A cupped hand. I decided to place a blue camalot from the position--despite it being rather stressful. I placed it straight into the crack of the right-facing dihedral I had been climbing, but it made a worriesome hollow sound as I plugged it in (the gear that would be potentially holding a fall was utilizing a section of rock possibly not directly attached to the main cliff). Not entirely sure that I'd be able to clip my newly placed blue camalot--or that it would hold a fall even if I did clip it, I ended up down climbing about 5' or so feet to my previous piece. Although the stance was better, it was still tiring, and I knew I wouldn't be able to recover enough to punch through the terrain.

    "Take!"

    After the disappointment of failing to onsight the route came the even more annoying challenge of getting back onto the climb. The jams in the pod were covered by the tensioned rope, anything above it was a heinous between-cupped-hands-and-fists size, and the entire section was slightly overhanging. After giving it a couple attempts, I decided to aid (placed gear in the rock and pulled on the gear rather than the rock) through the five or six feet, back into the cupped hands section from which I had previously retreated. The rock became more solid, and I finished out the final 30 feet or so of the route as I it narrowed from cupped hands, to perfect hands. The anchors finally arrived.

    The thrutching that occurred during my initial attempt at avoiding a fall had left me feeling completely beaten up: bruised knees, abrasions added to slightly sunburned forearms, and just general exhaustion.


    The route that wasn't even given a name definitely got the best of me.

    Despite failing to onsight the route, and despite feeling completely beaten up by it, after I lowered off, I said to Cameron and Lee "The sick part is . . . I enjoyed that." Cameron's response was a simple " . . . Dude, you just got Creeked."

    While I sat and recovered, Lee and Cameron went off to climb some thin route, of which I did not get any pictures. After that, Lee hopped on a very long, and difficult looking climb called The Wave. Seemed like a sandbag at 5.10+, but Lee did it in fine style.

    Feeling too beat up to continue towards my goal, we called it a day (a great one at that), and headed back to camp.
    Attachments: IHC_me.jpg (98.8 KB)
      cam_Supercrack.jpg (103 KB)
      supercrack_hexes.jpg (115 KB)
      creeked.jpg (110 KB)
      luxuryliner.jpg (113 KB)


    spikeddem


    Apr 14, 2011, 5:17 PM
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    We've packed up from Indian Creek, and are planning to do a couple towers. Then Bishop! Very excited for Bishop.




    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 14, 2011, 5:19 PM)
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    sungam


    Apr 15, 2011, 4:24 AM
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    Awesome TR, dude. Keep the info (and pikterz!) coming.
    Exceptionally jealous right now.


    sbaclimber


    Apr 15, 2011, 11:46 AM
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    sungam wrote:
    Awesome TR, dude. Keep the info (and pikterz!) coming.
    Exceptionally jealous right now.
    + 1

    I have got to get to the Creek some day!


    Gmburns2000


    Apr 15, 2011, 1:23 PM
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    keep the TR coming!


    boymeetsrock


    Apr 15, 2011, 1:58 PM
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    Enjoyable read so far. Looking forward to more!


    spikeddem


    Apr 16, 2011, 3:23 PM
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    I've posted in the partners forum for the West if anyone is interested. I'm currently in Red Rock. Looking for someone to split a site with or climb with. My phone number is in that thread.


    spikeddem


    Apr 16, 2011, 9:23 PM
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    Did Castleton Tower yesterday (4/15/11)! Met a surprise celebrity guest! I'll probably write that up tomorrow during the middle of the day when it's a bit hot for climbing.

    Forgot my camera's battery at the library :/ Oh well, I'm planning on returning there tomorrow anyways, I suppose.


    Partner j_ung


    Apr 17, 2011, 1:12 PM
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    Spiky, I sent you a PM and a text!


    enigma


    Apr 18, 2011, 3:40 PM
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    boymeetsrock wrote:
    Enjoyable read so far. Looking forward to more!


    Very Pretty pictures,
    nice rocks, you are a indeed a spike, and a very adept climber.
    thanks for sharing. Cool


    saint_john


    Apr 18, 2011, 4:43 PM
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    your trip sounds great. safe travels!


    spikeddem


    Apr 18, 2011, 5:26 PM
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    OK. A write-up for Castleton Tower.

    Friday April 15th 2011



    Today, Lee and I headed up Castleton Tower. We did the Kor-Ingalls route, 5.9 and 400'. Honestly, in my opinion, the climbing was really pretty "meh." The view was, of course, pretty difficult to beat. I guess I'm just not much of a chimney kind of guy.

    As I arrived at the second belay, I was greeted with a smile from Steph Davis and a friend of her's (Since everyone asks: No, she didn't base jump off the top.). She's just as friendly as personable as she comes off in her interviews. I think being from Minnesota makes meeting a professional climber a bit cooler than many Westerners think it is!

    The climbing itself was pretty mellow, and it never really presented any issues. Now that I think of it, I think these pitches were actually my first legitimate chimneying pitches. It was awkward. I led the first and second pitches, definitely enjoyed the second more than the first pitch. A #4 camalot-sized piece is a good thing to have for that second one.

    This was my first climbing that consisted of more than two pitches, which I didn't actually really realize until a bit later. Everything went pretty smoothly, thanks to all my "wasted" time on RC.knob.


    On top of the world tower!

    Anyways, after hiking back down (oh, I forgot to mention the strenuous+steep hour hike up. I'm a weak hiker; it was hard.) I told Lee that I didn't really have any interest in doing other towers. He decided to head out to Bishop that night. I stayed for the night.


    View from the tent, not too shabby?
    In the morning, I checked out the Red Rock guidebook, and it said that the average April temperature was 76, so I decided to drive to Vegas!


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 18, 2011, 6:22 PM)
    Attachments: castleton_afar.jpg (106 KB)
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    spikeddem


    Apr 18, 2011, 5:38 PM
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    Saturday April 16th 2011

    I left Moab around 8 or 9 in the morning, and arrived at Las Vegas sometime a bunch of hours after that. I think the drive was like eight or nine hours. It went fairly quickly though.

    (I visited Vegas a few years ago, but only sport climbed and bouldered.)

    I arrived in Vegas, to find the temperatures pushing 90 degrees. A bit warm, indeed. I stopped by a library to steal as much beta about the area as I could (and to escape some of the heat). After the library, I headed to Desert Rock Sports, and purchased a crashpad. Apparently, I had more room in my car than it previously felt like I had.

    With the sun headed towards setting, I went to Calico Basin to get a couple hours of bouldering in, not to mention a nice stroll down memory lane. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera's battery in the library, and don't really have any pictures. I just wandered around with a pad and no guidebook, hopping on whatever looked fun. Sorry for no pictures though Unsure


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 18, 2011, 5:40 PM)


    enigma


    Apr 18, 2011, 5:56 PM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    Saturday April 16th 2011

    I left Moab around 8 or 9 in the morning, and arrived at Las Vegas sometime a bunch of hours after that. I think the drive was like eight or nine hours. It went fairly quickly though.

    (I visited Vegas a few years ago, but only sport climbed and bouldered.)

    I arrived in Vegas, to find the temperatures pushing 90 degrees. A bit warm, indeed. I stopped by a library to steal as much beta about the area as I could (and to escape some of the heat). After the library, I headed to Desert Rock Sports, and purchased a crashpad. Apparently, I had more room in my car than it previously felt like I had.

    With the sun headed towards setting, I went to Calico Basin to get a couple hours of bouldering in, not to mention a nice stroll down memory lane. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera's battery in the library, and don't really have any pictures. I just wandered around with a pad and no guidebook, hopping on whatever looked fun. Sorry for no pictures though Unsure


    There's plenty of climbers around red rocks. Cool


    spikeddem


    Apr 18, 2011, 5:58 PM
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    Sunday April 17th 2011

    I ended up sleeping at Lovell Canyon on Friday night. Totally free, but like 25 miles from the climbing, and no bathrooms (although I've grown quite used to that). I decided that I'd boulder around in Calico Basin in the morning, head to the library when it got hot, then boulder some more that night.


    Breakfast time. The table folds in half, and the PVC legs unscrew for maximum compactness! (Cellphone shot.)

    I met a rad guy from Colorado named Cory, and after chatting a bit, we decided to find a short multipitch climb in the shade to run up, rather than fret over a couple short bouldering problems. Again, I still didn't have my camera's battery, so there are no pictures. Nonetheless, I can certainly steal a shot of the route we did from MountainProject!


    Stolen from MP . . . this is the fantastic third pitch!

    We hopped on the first four pitches of Dark Shadows, 5.8 (350'). The third pitch was the best pitch of 5.8 climbing I've ever done!

    I led the second and fourth pitches, and the fourth one was almost as good as the third pitch. Super fun climbing! That third pitch is tough to beat though . . when the crack disappears, face holds appear, when they disappear, a new crack comes back! Not to mention the incredible varnish on the right side of the dihedral. Just really good stuff.


    Stolen from MP again. The base of the climb. A nice little waterfall (just outside of the shot), and plenty of water for the pulled rope to get stuck in!

    After this, I headed back into town to grab my camera's battery, and I found a message from J_Ung, saying he was looking for a partner in Vegas from Monday-Wednesday. I met up with him at the Red Rock Campground, but unable to find any sites, we decided to camp in Lovell Canyon. We decided on a route, made some food, and crashed.


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 18, 2011, 6:19 PM)
    Attachments: car_calico.jpg (129 KB)


    spikeddem


    Apr 18, 2011, 6:18 PM
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    Monday, April 18th, 2011

    Jay and I woke up, made some breakfast, and headed down to get on some rock. We had decided on climbing Lotsa Balls, but when we arrived after the hike, we found a (mostly) open Black Magic, 5.8. It's four pitches, and they're all long. The first three are all at least 140', and I think the last one might be a hundred or so. MountainProject puts it at 580', but I think the guidebook is a bit closer with 500'.


    Jay, pointing out the route. I believe the climber in the photo is on Black Magic.

    The led the first pitch, and I found it to be fantastic! It definitely rivaled Dark Shadows' third pitch. Who knew 5.8 could be so much fun?!


    Waving to the camera as Jay closes in on the last 25 feet of the first pitch. His smile suggests that the route is well on its way to deserving all three stars it gets in the guidebook.

    The second and third pitch were taken by Jay. I must say, after seconding the radical third pitch, I'm a bit jealous. Dodging a roof, and then stepping over a couple steps immediately presents the leader with a lot more air underneath his or her feet than was present just seconds ago. Absolutely superb again! Red Rock continues to deliver!!!

    I finished out the route, dispatching the fourth pitch, a 100 feet of 5.4, and we found ourselves on top, smiling from ear to ear. Even the descent was classic: three simple raps leads to scrambling through a tunnel and over and under a couple boulders.

    Dark Shadows and Black Magic made for excellent 5.8 introductions to multipitch climbing in Red Rock! Absolutely superb, and anyone considering getting on them should (although take care on the first 25 feet of p1 if 5.8 is your limit!!).

    Climbing with Jay was a great experience, and we both look forward to tomorrow: Triassic Sands!

    Over and out!


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 18, 2011, 6:20 PM)
    Attachments: jay_pointing_lotsa.jpg (130 KB)
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    airscape


    Apr 18, 2011, 11:33 PM
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    THis is an awesome trip.

    Enjoyment!!


    sungam


    Apr 19, 2011, 6:50 AM
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    Just out of curiosity, did you catch Cory's last name, and did he just get back from Venezuela?


    spikeddem


    Apr 20, 2011, 6:18 PM
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    sungam wrote:
    Just out of curiosity, did you catch Cory's last name, and did he just get back from Venezuela?

    Um, I didn't catch his last name, but he definitely didn't just get back from Venezuela. He does rope access work, and just finished working at the Hoover Dam for two or so months.

    Climbing and camping with Jay Young was a great time! I can't write up our last two days right now, since the library will close too quickly, but I'm fairly certain I'm heading to Bishop tomorrow. Fun!


    Bats


    Apr 20, 2011, 6:28 PM
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    Cool trip...


    Gmburns2000


    Apr 20, 2011, 7:31 PM
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    dark shadows and black magic are great climbs. I did P1 and P3 of black magic on a really cold day. what a rewarding climb, though.


    sungam


    Apr 21, 2011, 6:30 AM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    sungam wrote:
    Just out of curiosity, did you catch Cory's last name, and did he just get back from Venezuela?

    Um, I didn't catch his last name, but he definitely didn't just get back from Venezuela. He does rope access work, and just finished working at the Hoover Dam for two or so months.

    Climbing and camping with Jay Young was a great time! I can't write up our last two days right now, since the library will close too quickly, but I'm fairly certain I'm heading to Bishop tomorrow. Fun!
    Cool. Yeah, I was wondering if it was my friend that loiters in RR a lot. He just epic'ed in Venezuela really bad and I want to find out what the hell happened.


    lena_chita
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    Apr 21, 2011, 10:29 AM
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    Awesome trip report, keep it coming!


    erisspirit


    Apr 21, 2011, 4:55 PM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    sungam wrote:
    Just out of curiosity, did you catch Cory's last name, and did he just get back from Venezuela?

    Um, I didn't catch his last name, but he definitely didn't just get back from Venezuela. He does rope access work, and just finished working at the Hoover Dam for two or so months.

    Climbing and camping with Jay Young was a great time! I can't write up our last two days right now, since the library will close too quickly, but I'm fairly certain I'm heading to Bishop tomorrow. Fun!

    haha! I'm heading through bishop tomorrow too... going to spend an afternoon in the happies on the way up to Mammoth


    Partner j_ung


    Apr 21, 2011, 4:59 PM
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    Great to hang with you, Spikey! I'm finally home, which is great, but I wish I had more days to spend in RR. Get to the New, hombre!


    Vegasclimber10


    Apr 21, 2011, 11:31 PM
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    Great TR so far!

    Really sorry I couldn't come out to Lovell and say hi, but a lot of stuff came up and I was kinda SOL.

    Next time you're in town, hopefully we can climb something.

    Keep the photos coming!


    spikeddem


    Apr 22, 2011, 2:02 PM
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    Tuesday, April 19th, 2011

    Jay's heart has been set on climbing Triassic Sands for years. Now, after returning to Red Rock after years of waiting, he had his chance.


    One of the most classic lines either of us have ever done. Absolutely fantastic.

    Although on Monday I had been nervous about a multipitch climb with two pitches of 5.10, when I arrived at the base of the route I just felt really excited to get to the climbing. Jay mentioned he had butterflies, partially from having built up the climb for so many years, and partially from leading near his off-the-couch limit after having taken time off lately. The plan was for Jay to take the first and second pitches (5.7, 5.10b), and for me to take the last two pitches (5.7, 5.10a).

    We set off.

    The first pitch was pretty much a 30' maintenance pitch, not really a pitch you'd hop on if it didn't have classic pitches immediately after it. Jay dispatched the first pitch, put me on belay, and shortly enough we found ourselves enjoying the view from the top of the first pitch. Wasting little time, Jay and I took a moment to snap a photograph that Jay could use to recall the feeling of standing beneath the crux pitch that he had built up over so many years.


    Jay preparing to set off on the crux pitch, with not much more than air beneath him after traversing from the anchor.

    I most certainly cannot do justice to Jay's encounter with this pitch. I suppose I'll just keep it simple, and let my reader imagine the rest (or perhaps insert a write-up by Jay if he wants to?). Basically, Jay fought tooth and nail during his 120' pitch: back-cleaning, bumping up gear over and over, sustaining a pump that lasted until dinner time. Jay later told me that a strong dialogue had been going on for a lot of the pitch: "Just stop here and yell take!" "No! I've waited for so many years to get on this route, I need to push myself." Jay kept himself safe, and held on for his ecstatic hooting-n-hollering finish as he clipped the chains.

    I followed, finding myself glad that I didn't have to lead pitch. Interestingly, we found that our opinions of the cruxes to be different. I suppose it might have helped (a lot, actually) that I had just finished a week and a half of crack climbing at Indian Creek. Props to Jay for a great climb though.

    After the excitement of the second pitch, it was now time for Jay to kick back and relax as his leading duties were done for the day. I headed up on on the 160' 5.7 pitch ahead of me. It never really gave any kind of a problem, except for a bit of a route reading challenge, but after rappelling, we saw that either of several paths would have worked just fine.


    Jay, enjoying being a second after his intense pitch.

    Hanging out at the top of the third pitch we snapped a few photos, enjoyed the view, and commented on the Indian Creek-ness of the fourth pitch. Many parties foolishly skip this fourth pitch, which I decided was likely my new favorite pitch of I've ever done (sport or trad).


    Two crushers doing what they do best.

    I headed up to finish up the last pitch. I felt confident the whole time: at the belay, pulling over the first roof, pulling through the perfect hands bulges (thank you, Wavy Gravy!), and through the last 70' of the pitch too. Just really enjoyed the climbing, and never got scared or sketched. An absolute 160' gem Every single foot of it was great. Crack disappears? Oh, face holds! Oh, where'd they go? Ah, a crack appears! Perfecto!


    Although you can only see like 20% of the fun, this pitch is truly one of the best I've ever done.

    After a short celebration at the top of the fourth pitch, Jay and I rapped down. We took a short cut on the rappelling, and ended up rapping down through a sport climb. After reaching the ground, I realized that I had been fairly inspired by the look of the long (120') sport route. We grabbed a bit of food, and I hopped on the route. Although there were some slopers now and then, I probably used around 10,000 crimps on the route. It was an enjoyable route. Looking it up later, I found out that it's called Sand Felipe (5.10a). Jay and I headed back to the truck, and chatted about what to do the next day, his last day in Red Rock.

    Oh, and I almost forgot. Due to losing my nut tool somewhere in my car (I think?), here's the impromptu nut tool that I came up with for the climbs Jay and I did.


    Ghetto nut tool.
    Attachments: triassiclook.jpg (133 KB)
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    spikeddem


    Apr 22, 2011, 2:21 PM
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    Wednesday, April 20th, 2011

    For Jay's last day, we decided on TunnelVision. This 5.7 multipitch classic seeemed like a good call to enjoy our last day without much stress. Well, apparently, we got lost on our hike. Unfortunately, we arrived near the bottom of a climb that almost exactly matched the description in the book. After inspecting the choss pile that lacked any chalk whatsoever, Jay decided to head up a nearby sport route (also mentioned as being near the route). The two supposedly meet up at the base of the second pitch. After my seconding, Jay thought it'd be a good call to bail from the chossy looking route. With a party of three moving at a snails pace (or slower) ahead of us, and being completely uninspired by the route, we bailed.

    I'm still kind of confused as to exactly what was what and where we were, but whatever. I'm over it. Jay and I decided to go bouldering in Calico Basin. This actually ended up with Jay taking a couple photos, and using his crash pad to stretch and close his eyes while enjoying his last bit of relaxation before heading back home from Vegas the next morning.

    Despite getting close on a project that I'd been working, I ended up going home empty handed. After climbing eight of the last nine days, it was time for a rest day or two. I am kind of tempted to try to stop by Calico Basin on the way home from my trip to see what if I can finish it off.


    Feels really hard for me. Definitely at my limit.

    Jay and I said our goodbyes and see-you-later's, and the next morning he left for home at the New River Gorge, and I left for my next destination: Bishop, CA.
    Attachments: calicomonkey.jpg (124 KB)


    spikeddem


    Apr 22, 2011, 2:28 PM
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    j_ung wrote:
    Great to hang with you, Spikey! I'm finally home, which is great, but I wish I had more days to spend in RR. Get to the New, hombre!

    Ditto! I'll get there soon enough :)

    Vegasclimber10 wrote:
    Great TR so far!

    Really sorry I couldn't come out to Lovell and say hi, but a lot of stuff came up and I was kinda SOL.

    Next time you're in town, hopefully we can climb something.

    Keep the photos coming!

    Thanks! Yeah, it was too bad you couldn't make it. You missed out on randomly camping with . . . JIM DONINI! He's a really funny guy. He actually invited Jay and I to go climb with him in The Black Canyon. That will likely be happening on my drive home, so I can be in the best shape to have his 67 year old-self carry my butt up Scenic Cruise there! Haha, he's such a talented guy.

    There's a chance I'll swing back through RR on my way home after this trip . . . I'll let you know if I do.


    Partner j_ung


    Apr 23, 2011, 4:30 AM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    I most certainly cannot do justice to Jay's encounter with this pitch. I suppose I'll just keep it simple, and let my reader imagine the rest (or perhaps insert a write-up by Jay if he wants to?). Basically, Jay fought tooth and nail during his 120' pitch: back-cleaning, bumping up gear over and over, sustaining a pump that lasted until dinner time. Jay later told me that a strong dialogue had been going on for a lot of the pitch: "Just stop here and yell take!" "No! I've waited for so many years to get on this route, I need to push myself." Jay kept himself safe, and held on for his ecstatic hooting-n-hollering finish as he clipped the chains.

    That's pretty perfect, actually. I'll add a detail, namely that I pulled a classic east-coaster on the west coast mistake and over protected early. After the crux, I started plugging cams every 7 feet or so, until I realized, hey, I've got a long way to go and maybe three pieces left that'll fit this crack. 80 cam-shuffling feet later (felt like a mile), I finally clipped the anchor.

    It'll seem weird to anybody who's climbed TS before, but I had substantially more trouble managing my couch pump and protecting the upper 2/3 of the pitch than I did on the crux down below.

    If I ever get back there, I think Wholesome Fullback and Our Father are tops on the tick list.

    I hope Bishop's treating you well, Spikey!


    Partner j_ung


    Apr 27, 2011, 4:49 AM
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    Apologies to those waiting for more posts and photos. It appears that climbing with me is so over-the-top fun that when I left for home, the rest of spikeddem's trip paled in comparison. Unfortunately, there is nothing else worth posting.

    Tongue


    (This post was edited by j_ung on Apr 27, 2011, 4:49 AM)


    kachoong


    Apr 27, 2011, 5:21 AM
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    Great TR, Spike! Sounds like you're having a blast and also had the pleasure of ticking Mr Ung on your partner list.

    Road-tripping between climbing areas is one of the great experiences any climber should do. I just got back from Aus myself, having climbed at Arapiles, and wish I was still back there climbing. So crank some extra stuff for us lot stuck back at work.


    lena_chita
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    Apr 27, 2011, 10:31 AM
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    j_ung wrote:
    Apologies to those waiting for more posts and photos. It appears that climbing with me is so over-the-top fun that when I left for home, the rest of spikeddem's trip paled in comparison. Unfortunately, there is nothing else worth posting.

    Tongue

    But of course!


    spikeddem


    May 1, 2011, 3:32 PM
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    lena_chita wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Apologies to those waiting for more posts and photos. It appears that climbing with me is so over-the-top fun that when I left for home, the rest of spikeddem's trip paled in comparison. Unfortunately, there is nothing else worth posting.

    Tongue

    But of course!

    Definitely worthy of two, one-star votes...?


    spikeddem


    May 1, 2011, 4:22 PM
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    Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick!

    Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good!

    Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems.


    King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day.

    Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course).

    Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include:

    Birthday Direct V3
    King Tut V3
    Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line)

    The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded!

    Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time.



    And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done.

    Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN.

    I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push.

    Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts.

    . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?


    (This post was edited by spikeddem on May 1, 2011, 4:28 PM)
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    enigma


    May 1, 2011, 11:20 PM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick!

    Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good!

    Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems.


    King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day.

    Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course).

    Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include:

    Birthday Direct V3
    King Tut V3
    Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line)

    The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded!

    Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time.



    And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done.

    Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN.

    I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push.

    Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts.

    . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?

    This is a awesome trip report, beautiful photos, great beta, well organized, well written. Do you work for a climbing magazine?
    Seems particularly professional.
    I'm impressed.


    (This post was edited by enigma on May 1, 2011, 11:27 PM)


    lena_chita
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    May 2, 2011, 5:29 AM
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    I loved Bishop, too! And yes, very good analogy of "different language climbing". Birthday Direct was the first problem I got on at the Buttermilks, and it was a bit of "oh, shit!" moment. And Ironman Traverse-- yes, that has got to be the most-climbed one. But it is so much fun!

    Sorry to hear that you cut the trip short, and I hope the reasons weren't bad. I would have enjoyed reading more.

    Four more months to go... hmmm, move to the red for 4 months?


    donald949


    May 2, 2011, 9:10 AM
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    Very nice. I'll have to check out the camping in the Buttermilks/happies/sads some time. Sounds like my kind of set up. Anyrate, sorry I missed you. But hey, you were climbing at Red Rocks while I was up in the area. Deffinately a step up from the Alabama Hills.
    +1 on hoping that the drive home was not due to something bad and it was just a time to move on thing.
    D


    spikeddem


    May 10, 2011, 8:16 PM
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    enigma wrote:
    spikeddem wrote:
    Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick!

    Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good!

    Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems.


    King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day.

    Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course).

    Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include:

    Birthday Direct V3
    King Tut V3
    Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line)

    The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded!

    Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time.



    And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done.

    Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN.

    I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push.

    Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts.

    . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?

    This is a awesome trip report, beautiful photos, great beta, well organized, well written. Do you work for a climbing magazine?
    Seems particularly professional.
    I'm impressed.

    Thanks for the compliments, Enigma! I'm glad you enjoyed my trip report.


    esander4


    May 11, 2011, 12:14 AM
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    spikeddem wrote:
    Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick!

    Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good!

    Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems.


    King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day.

    Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course).

    Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include:

    Birthday Direct V3
    King Tut V3
    Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line)

    The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded!

    Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time.



    And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done.

    Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN.

    I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push.

    Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts.

    . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?

    Any interest in touring around Tennessee/Alabama/N. Carolina for a couple weeks? Wink


    Partner j_ung


    May 12, 2011, 9:19 AM
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    And of course, if you're in the south anyway... coughnewrivercough. Actualloy, I might be psyched to head to NC for a couple days of cragging down there, as well. Especially if said cragging is in Linville Gorge.


    esander4


    May 12, 2011, 6:48 PM
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    j_ung wrote:
    And of course, if you're in the south anyway... coughnewrivercough. Actualloy, I might be psyched to head to NC for a couple days of cragging down there, as well. Especially if said cragging is in Linville Gorge.

    Dang how did I forget about NRG and RRG?


    donald949


    May 13, 2011, 8:49 AM
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    Tuolumne Meadows

    Course with this years snow fall, I'm sure it will be about July 4th before the road is open. Crazy


    Stoves


    Aug 1, 2011, 5:25 PM
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    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.


    Partner j_ung


    Aug 2, 2011, 4:04 AM
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    Re: [Stoves] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?


    sungam


    Aug 2, 2011, 5:00 AM
    Post #73 of 80 (1681 views)
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    Re: [j_ung] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?
    LaughLaughOh, man...*snort* Jung... *gasp*... my stomach... *gaffaw* can't...stop...laughing...


    Kartessa


    Aug 2, 2011, 6:03 AM
    Post #74 of 80 (1674 views)
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    Re: [j_ung] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.


    spikeddem


    Aug 2, 2011, 7:50 AM
    Post #75 of 80 (1663 views)
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    Re: [Kartessa] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    Kartessa wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.

    Glad to see that some people are trustworthy. Jay made it very awkward, not eating that sandwich.


    boymeetsrock


    Aug 2, 2011, 7:52 AM
    Post #76 of 80 (589 views)
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    Posts: 1709

    Re: [Kartessa] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    Kartessa wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.

    2 girls, 1 PBJ .?.


    sungam


    Aug 2, 2011, 8:29 AM
    Post #77 of 80 (578 views)
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    Re: [boymeetsrock] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    boymeetsrock wrote:
    Kartessa wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.

    2 girls, 1 PBJ .?.
    Unimpressed Meddikeps is a gurl? I FUCKING KNEW IT!


    Kartessa


    Aug 2, 2011, 9:09 AM
    Post #78 of 80 (571 views)
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    Re: [boymeetsrock] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    boymeetsrock wrote:
    Kartessa wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.

    2 girls, 1 PBJ .?.

    Not Lovin' it... I'd rather 1 girl, 2 PBJs


    boymeetsrock


    Aug 2, 2011, 9:35 AM
    Post #79 of 80 (563 views)
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    Re: [Kartessa] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    Kartessa wrote:
    boymeetsrock wrote:
    Kartessa wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.

    2 girls, 1 PBJ .?.

    Not Lovin' it... I'd rather 1 girl, 2 PBJs


    Baby, I'm gonna butter your bread.


    Partner j_ung


    Aug 2, 2011, 5:56 PM
    Post #80 of 80 (541 views)
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    Registered: Nov 21, 2003
    Posts: 18687

    Re: [spikeddem] Spikeddem goes west [In reply to]
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    spikeddem wrote:
    Kartessa wrote:
    j_ung wrote:
    Stoves wrote:
    Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.

    Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.

    Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."

    What would you do?

    probably eat the sammich.

    Glad to see that some people are trustworthy. Jay made it very awkward, not eating that sandwich.

    In my defense, you weren't very specific. I thought you wanted me to do the same.


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