Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Update on fleshes training.
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


ceebo


May 23, 2011, 8:34 AM
Post #1 of 36 (5269 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Update on fleshes training.
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, its been around 3 month or so since i started fleshes training. Just want to give a post of improvement for anybody who gives a shit. I will not mention any ''normal'' climbing done, only that of weighted type or campusing as suggested.

For the first month or so i only campused once per week to allow my self time to adapt to the demands.

Week 1 - 2 inch rail doing doubles. Big muscle group failure (shoulders, biceps) on set 7-8

Week 2 - 2 inch rail doubles. Completed

Week 3 - 3/4 inch rail doubles (3 finger open) Finger failure on set 7

Week 4 - 3/4 inch rail doubles (3 finger open) Completed, just.

I started to feel slight pain of 3 finger campusing so before adding weight i thought it wise to go into taps instead of doubles untill they adapt. Starting on the first rail with both hands, reach up the the 3rd rail with 1 hand, then drop it back down to the first rail. 4 reps of that (2 per hand) 8 sets. I alternated this between weighted climbing every other day.

Session 1 - 3/4 inch rail taps with 10lb. Failure on 6-8 sets.

Session 2 - Weighted bouldering 15lb (pretty much a 4x4 kinda drill). Completed.

Session 3 - 3/4 inch rail taps 10lb. Failure on 8th set

Session 4 - Bouldering 15 lb. Completed

Session 5 - 3/4 inch rail taps 15lb. Failure 8th set. Also added dead hangs as fingers did not feel quite done. 20 lb with 8 sets 8 second duration 3/4 inch rail. Failure on set 7-8.

Session 6 - Bouldering 20 lb. Completed

Session 7 - 3/4 inch rail taps 15 lb completed. Dead hangs 20lb 3/4 inch rail failure 8th set.

Session 8 - Bouldering 20lb. Completed

Session 9 - 3/4 inch rail taps 20lb. Failure on sets 6-8. Dead hangs 20lb, failure on set 7-8.

The weighted improvement is quite obvious, how this will relate to climbing i can not pin point as of yet. I have finally completed a 8a route that had me for a while, along with a 7c. I hope that is due to the above training, as it was FUCKING HARD WORK.

I did notice i took a endurance hit as to be expected, but.. on the other hand i also noticed i can climb hard moves over and over again now, with a little rest ofc.

I am going to drop the weighted bouldering as it felt like it was damaging my movement. In its place i will train endurance instead. Hopefully a good mix of endurance and raw strength training for the next few month will show more obvious results. Or should i say more rounded results.


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 23, 2011, 1:50 PM)


lithiummetalman


May 23, 2011, 10:12 AM
Post #2 of 36 (5226 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 286

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nice!!

Thanks for posting this!

Will try this with endurance recommendations.


flesh


May 23, 2011, 10:13 AM
Post #3 of 36 (5226 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
Well, its been around 3 month or so since i started fleshes training. Just want to give a post of improvement for anybody who gives a shit. I will not mention any ''normal'' climbing done, only that of weighted type or campusing as suggested.

For the first month or so i only campused once per week to allow my self time to adapt to the demands.

Week 1 - 2 inch rail doing doubles. Big muscle group failure (shoulders, biceps) on set 7-8

Week 2 - 2 inch rail doubles. Completed

Week 3 - 3/4 inch rail doubles (3 finger open) Finger failure on set 7

Week 4 - 3/4 inch rail doubles (3 finger open) Completed, just.

I started to feel slight pain of 3 finger campusing so before adding weight i thought it wise to go into taps instead of doubles untill they adapt. Starting on the first rail with both hands, reach up the the 3rd rail with 1 hand, then drop it back down to the first rail. 4 reps of that (2 per hand) 8 sets. I alternated this between weighted climbing every other day.

Session 1 - 3/4 inch rail taps with 10lb. Failure on 6-8 sets.

Session 2 - Weighted bouldering 15lb (pretty much a 4x4 kinda drill). Completed.

Session 3 - 3/4 inch rail taps 10lb. Failure on 8th set

Session 4 - Bouldering 15 lb. Completed

Session 5 - 3/4 inch rail taps 15lb. Failure 8th set. Also added dead hangs as fingers did not feel quite done. 20 lb with 8 sets 8 second duration 3/4 inch rail. Failure on set 7-8.

Session 6 - Bouldering 20 lb. Completed

Session 7 - 3/4 inch rail taps 15 lb completed. Dead hangs 20lb 3/4 inch rail failure 8th set.

Session 8 - Bouldering 20lb. Completed

Session 8 - 3/4 inch rail taps 20lb. Failure on sets 6-8. Dead hangs 20lb, failure on set 7-8.

The weighted improvement is quite obvious, how this will relate to climbing i can not pin point as of yet. I have finally completed a 8a route that had me for a while, along with a 7c. I hope that is due to the above training, as it was FUCKING HARD WORK.

I did notice i took a endurance hit as to be expected, but.. on the other hand i also noticed i can climb hard moves over and over again now, with a little rest ofc.

I am going to drop the weighted bouldering as it felt like it was damaging my movement. In its place i will train endurance instead. Hopefully a good mix of endurance and raw strength training for the next few month will show more obvious results. Or should i say more rounded results.


When you have power, endurance comes easily, when you have/train only endurance, power comes slowly. It will pay off.

I'm a bit confused about the three finger open, not all rails are the same size of course, and the degree that the campus board overhangs changes things a bit as well. That being said, I basically use the smallest rung I can that allows all four fingers to stay on. Maybe your pinky isn't that long relative to your other fingers to allow this?

If possible, I would suggest finding/buying a rung that allows you to keep four fingers on, open of course. It will be a bit easier but it's safer to disburse the weight between 8 fingers rather than 6. Also, if you find you can do more than 8 reps at this size for at least 7 sets, then add weight, I've gone as high as adding 30lbs on a larger rung before moving to a smaller one.

Currently, the rung I use is just big enough to keep four fingers open on and i do 8 reps with 10lbs on me. sometimes I do 10 reps with no weight.

If it hurts, definately stop doing it. Come back after a few weeks. It shouldn't hurt but I'm guessing it's because the three finger vs four for you.

It does sound like over the three month's, the amount of weight/reps you could do continued to go up, this is a measurable difference, so you know your getting stronger. It doesn't always translate into new climbing grades right away, grades come in waves, you may be stuck at a certain grade for months then blow through 1 2 or 3 grades in a month. It helps when you can measure progress, u know your getting stronger whereas without this you may feel like your not improving even when you are.

Keep doing it at least twice a month even throuhgout your endurance cycle.

Also, when doing weighted bouldering, I find it works best do only climb totally open handed, even on crimp holds and the steeper the better, you'll train body tension like you wouldn't believe and next thing you know, moves that your feet use to pop on they will be sticking.

People have a hard time only climbing open handed in the gym because naturally it's easier to hold a crimp and sometimes a slope in the crimp position, fforce yourself to do it anyway, in time, you will be so strong open, you won't mind anymore.

I only crimp hard maybe once a month, other then that I only open hand and I can still crimp pretty hard.

When you are climbing at your level, many times you get to where you feel run down or you fingers hurt especially when your crimping. If you climb open, your hands will hurt less and as a result you'll be able to climb more often and the cumalative effect over time of climbing more and climbing more at a higher level will pay huge dividends.

Hope this helps.

PS, try climbing on the longest steepest wall at your gym with a weight vest for endurance training, 1 or 2 grades below your bouldering limit, you'll be Smile after a few weeks. Only open of course.


ceebo


May 23, 2011, 1:45 PM
Post #4 of 36 (5165 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
When you have power, endurance comes easily, when you have/train only endurance, power comes slowly. It will pay off.

I'm a bit confused about the three finger open, not all rails are the same size of course, and the degree that the campus board overhangs changes things a bit as well. That being said, I basically use the smallest rung I can that allows all four fingers to stay on. Maybe your pinky isn't that long relative to your other fingers to allow this?

If possible, I would suggest finding/buying a rung that allows you to keep four fingers on, open of course. It will be a bit easier but it's safer to disburse the weight between 8 fingers rather than 6. Also, if you find you can do more than 8 reps at this size for at least 7 sets, then add weight, I've gone as high as adding 30lbs on a larger rung before moving to a smaller one.

Currently, the rung I use is just big enough to keep four fingers open on and i do 8 reps with 10lbs on me. sometimes I do 10 reps with no weight.

If it hurts, definately stop doing it. Come back after a few weeks. It shouldn't hurt but I'm guessing it's because the three finger vs four for you.

It does sound like over the three month's, the amount of weight/reps you could do continued to go up, this is a measurable difference, so you know your getting stronger. It doesn't always translate into new climbing grades right away, grades come in waves, you may be stuck at a certain grade for months then blow through 1 2 or 3 grades in a month. It helps when you can measure progress, u know your getting stronger whereas without this you may feel like your not improving even when you are.

Keep doing it at least twice a month even throuhgout your endurance cycle.

Also, when doing weighted bouldering, I find it works best do only climb totally open handed, even on crimp holds and the steeper the better, you'll train body tension like you wouldn't believe and next thing you know, moves that your feet use to pop on they will be sticking.

People have a hard time only climbing open handed in the gym because naturally it's easier to hold a crimp and sometimes a slope in the crimp position, fforce yourself to do it anyway, in time, you will be so strong open, you won't mind anymore.

I only crimp hard maybe once a month, other then that I only open hand and I can still crimp pretty hard.

When you are climbing at your level, many times you get to where you feel run down or you fingers hurt especially when your crimping. If you climb open, your hands will hurt less and as a result you'll be able to climb more often and the cumalative effect over time of climbing more and climbing more at a higher level will pay huge dividends.

Hope this helps.

PS, try climbing on the longest steepest wall at your gym with a weight vest for endurance training, 1 or 2 grades below your bouldering limit, you'll be Smile after a few weeks. Only open of course.

It is not possible for me to use my baby finger on such a rung. The only way i can get it on their is by half crimping. My ring finger is bigger than my index (ring finger almost same size as middle). I guess that has some baring on it.

I was also rather confused to figure out that my 3 finger open hand dead hang times completely obliterate my 4 finger half crimp dead hang times by quite a big margin. I got a feeling the 1 finger traversing (yes bad advice) has the credit for that. I also tried a few sets with half crimp vs fully open, and fully open was just so much easier even if it was a pinky short. It must have something to do with the way it aligns my arms up, i just get more power in that position. I do not like the idea of leaving out my baby finger, that's partly the reason i added dead hangs after the campusing and do the sets in half crimp to make sure my pinky gets some action. Do you think that is a good call?.

I do not want to stop using the campus board, i was hoping it is a sustainable tool to use every few days (no more than twise a week?).

Atm i do not have a real weight vest, just a ruck sack. The weights move around too much and messes with my cog while climbing, its not a problem on the campus tough. Until i can afford a vest i don't think i will continue with weight for bouldering. As an alternative maybe i can try using 2 fingers per hand in your endurance suggestion? middle/index as 1 set and middle ring finger as another?. Leaves the pinky out again ;/ but i can cover that in the campus sessions?.

Anyway, cheers.


billcoe_


May 23, 2011, 2:35 PM
Post #5 of 36 (5139 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4658

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How is the pain in the elbows Ceebo?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread

I was having finger pain doing a lot less, (56 years old, Dr says Arthritis) changed the diet to a Zone friendly one and they feel better. Need to start working the hangboard since they are doing better.


flesh


May 23, 2011, 3:41 PM
Post #6 of 36 (5117 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
In reply to:
When you have power, endurance comes easily, when you have/train only endurance, power comes slowly. It will pay off.

I'm a bit confused about the three finger open, not all rails are the same size of course, and the degree that the campus board overhangs changes things a bit as well. That being said, I basically use the smallest rung I can that allows all four fingers to stay on. Maybe your pinky isn't that long relative to your other fingers to allow this?

If possible, I would suggest finding/buying a rung that allows you to keep four fingers on, open of course. It will be a bit easier but it's safer to disburse the weight between 8 fingers rather than 6. Also, if you find you can do more than 8 reps at this size for at least 7 sets, then add weight, I've gone as high as adding 30lbs on a larger rung before moving to a smaller one.

Currently, the rung I use is just big enough to keep four fingers open on and i do 8 reps with 10lbs on me. sometimes I do 10 reps with no weight.

If it hurts, definately stop doing it. Come back after a few weeks. It shouldn't hurt but I'm guessing it's because the three finger vs four for you.

It does sound like over the three month's, the amount of weight/reps you could do continued to go up, this is a measurable difference, so you know your getting stronger. It doesn't always translate into new climbing grades right away, grades come in waves, you may be stuck at a certain grade for months then blow through 1 2 or 3 grades in a month. It helps when you can measure progress, u know your getting stronger whereas without this you may feel like your not improving even when you are.

Keep doing it at least twice a month even throuhgout your endurance cycle.

Also, when doing weighted bouldering, I find it works best do only climb totally open handed, even on crimp holds and the steeper the better, you'll train body tension like you wouldn't believe and next thing you know, moves that your feet use to pop on they will be sticking.

People have a hard time only climbing open handed in the gym because naturally it's easier to hold a crimp and sometimes a slope in the crimp position, fforce yourself to do it anyway, in time, you will be so strong open, you won't mind anymore.

I only crimp hard maybe once a month, other then that I only open hand and I can still crimp pretty hard.

When you are climbing at your level, many times you get to where you feel run down or you fingers hurt especially when your crimping. If you climb open, your hands will hurt less and as a result you'll be able to climb more often and the cumalative effect over time of climbing more and climbing more at a higher level will pay huge dividends.

Hope this helps.

PS, try climbing on the longest steepest wall at your gym with a weight vest for endurance training, 1 or 2 grades below your bouldering limit, you'll be Smile after a few weeks. Only open of course.

It is not possible for me to use my baby finger on such a rung. The only way i can get it on their is by half crimping. My ring finger is bigger than my index (ring finger almost same size as middle). I guess that has some baring on it.

----three finger is ok, just make sure to watch for pain, also, I woudn't ever campus more than 1/week, simply because of the repetitive movement and letting it heal, plus 1/week is plenty for pure power training. Even 2/month is good.

I was also rather confused to figure out that my 3 finger open hand dead hang times completely obliterate my 4 finger half crimp dead hang times by quite a big margin. I got a feeling the 1 finger traversing (yes bad advice) has the credit for that. I also tried a few sets with half crimp vs fully open, and fully open was just so much easier even if it was a pinky short. It must have something to do with the way it aligns my arms up, i just get more power in that position. I do not like the idea of leaving out my baby finger, that's partly the reason i added dead hangs after the campusing and do the sets in half crimp to make sure my pinky gets some action. Do you think that is a good call?.

-----I don't recommend ever power triaining crimps, as you get stronger open you will get stronger in crimps too. You can gain crimp strength quickly by power training it buy it's not worth the risk IMO.

I do not want to stop using the campus board, i was hoping it is a sustainable tool to use every few days (no more than twise a week?).

Atm i do not have a real weight vest, just a ruck sack. The weights move around too much and messes with my cog while climbing, its not a problem on the campus tough. Until i can afford a vest i don't think i will continue with weight for bouldering. As an alternative maybe i can try using 2 fingers per hand in your endurance suggestion? middle/index as 1 set and middle ring finger as another?. Leaves the pinky out again ;/ but i can cover that in the campus sessions?.

I don't recommend training 2 fingers ever. Unless you are climbing 14c and training for action directe, it's not worth the risk.


Anyway, cheers.

Save for a weight vest, I got the uni vest for 129 online. 0-20 lbs, it's perfect.

It may still be possible if you test some different rung sizes to find one you can be open in with four fingers, even if it's quite big that's ok, just add more weight. I prefer weighted four fingers over not weighting three if possible. yOu'll have to play around with this. Not all rungs are the same. Maybe one that's the same size but more incut for example would allow you to keep the pinky on. This is more about spreading the weight between more fingers rather than what gets you strongest fastest.

The rung I use, with four fingers open, if you could do it with 30 lbs you would have the power to boulder v13 i'd guess.


ceebo


May 23, 2011, 6:01 PM
Post #7 of 36 (5080 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
ceebo wrote:
In reply to:
When you have power, endurance comes easily, when you have/train only endurance, power comes slowly. It will pay off.

I'm a bit confused about the three finger open, not all rails are the same size of course, and the degree that the campus board overhangs changes things a bit as well. That being said, I basically use the smallest rung I can that allows all four fingers to stay on. Maybe your pinky isn't that long relative to your other fingers to allow this?

If possible, I would suggest finding/buying a rung that allows you to keep four fingers on, open of course. It will be a bit easier but it's safer to disburse the weight between 8 fingers rather than 6. Also, if you find you can do more than 8 reps at this size for at least 7 sets, then add weight, I've gone as high as adding 30lbs on a larger rung before moving to a smaller one.

Currently, the rung I use is just big enough to keep four fingers open on and i do 8 reps with 10lbs on me. sometimes I do 10 reps with no weight.

If it hurts, definately stop doing it. Come back after a few weeks. It shouldn't hurt but I'm guessing it's because the three finger vs four for you.

It does sound like over the three month's, the amount of weight/reps you could do continued to go up, this is a measurable difference, so you know your getting stronger. It doesn't always translate into new climbing grades right away, grades come in waves, you may be stuck at a certain grade for months then blow through 1 2 or 3 grades in a month. It helps when you can measure progress, u know your getting stronger whereas without this you may feel like your not improving even when you are.

Keep doing it at least twice a month even throuhgout your endurance cycle.

Also, when doing weighted bouldering, I find it works best do only climb totally open handed, even on crimp holds and the steeper the better, you'll train body tension like you wouldn't believe and next thing you know, moves that your feet use to pop on they will be sticking.

People have a hard time only climbing open handed in the gym because naturally it's easier to hold a crimp and sometimes a slope in the crimp position, fforce yourself to do it anyway, in time, you will be so strong open, you won't mind anymore.

I only crimp hard maybe once a month, other then that I only open hand and I can still crimp pretty hard.

When you are climbing at your level, many times you get to where you feel run down or you fingers hurt especially when your crimping. If you climb open, your hands will hurt less and as a result you'll be able to climb more often and the cumalative effect over time of climbing more and climbing more at a higher level will pay huge dividends.

Hope this helps.

PS, try climbing on the longest steepest wall at your gym with a weight vest for endurance training, 1 or 2 grades below your bouldering limit, you'll be Smile after a few weeks. Only open of course.

It is not possible for me to use my baby finger on such a rung. The only way i can get it on their is by half crimping. My ring finger is bigger than my index (ring finger almost same size as middle). I guess that has some baring on it.

----three finger is ok, just make sure to watch for pain, also, I woudn't ever campus more than 1/week, simply because of the repetitive movement and letting it heal, plus 1/week is plenty for pure power training. Even 2/month is good.

I was also rather confused to figure out that my 3 finger open hand dead hang times completely obliterate my 4 finger half crimp dead hang times by quite a big margin. I got a feeling the 1 finger traversing (yes bad advice) has the credit for that. I also tried a few sets with half crimp vs fully open, and fully open was just so much easier even if it was a pinky short. It must have something to do with the way it aligns my arms up, i just get more power in that position. I do not like the idea of leaving out my baby finger, that's partly the reason i added dead hangs after the campusing and do the sets in half crimp to make sure my pinky gets some action. Do you think that is a good call?.

-----I don't recommend ever power triaining crimps, as you get stronger open you will get stronger in crimps too. You can gain crimp strength quickly by power training it buy it's not worth the risk IMO.

I do not want to stop using the campus board, i was hoping it is a sustainable tool to use every few days (no more than twise a week?).

Atm i do not have a real weight vest, just a ruck sack. The weights move around too much and messes with my cog while climbing, its not a problem on the campus tough. Until i can afford a vest i don't think i will continue with weight for bouldering. As an alternative maybe i can try using 2 fingers per hand in your endurance suggestion? middle/index as 1 set and middle ring finger as another?. Leaves the pinky out again ;/ but i can cover that in the campus sessions?.

I don't recommend training 2 fingers ever. Unless you are climbing 14c and training for action directe, it's not worth the risk.


Anyway, cheers.

Save for a weight vest, I got the uni vest for 129 online. 0-20 lbs, it's perfect.

It may still be possible if you test some different rung sizes to find one you can be open in with four fingers, even if it's quite big that's ok, just add more weight. I prefer weighted four fingers over not weighting three if possible. yOu'll have to play around with this. Not all rungs are the same. Maybe one that's the same size but more incut for example would allow you to keep the pinky on. This is more about spreading the weight between more fingers rather than what gets you strongest fastest.

The rung I use, with four fingers open, if you could do it with 30 lbs you would have the power to boulder v13 i'd guess.

I see, i will use bigger rungs once i feel ready for weighted doubles. Probably guna increase the reps on weighted taps for now to 3 each hand and stay at 20lb. Should take another few sessions to build up to that.

I don't get any problems with elbows now, i think that was mostly down to climbing far too many hours per session. Some push ups helped as well. Also may be of some interest to people, i was climbing allot (6-7 day a week). My knees, especially right one was getting some issues as a result. I still have a little pain in the knee if i try any difficult heel/toe hooks, but the break their getting from campusing and reduced days climbing has defo helped it ease off allot. Also been doing some basic strengthening and taking glucosomaine, or what ever their called.


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 23, 2011, 6:19 PM)


spikeddem


May 23, 2011, 6:30 PM
Post #8 of 36 (5072 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Climbing 6-7 days per week? Crazy


jt512


May 23, 2011, 7:48 PM
Post #9 of 36 (5056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (9 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
Update on fleshes training.

Update on Ceebo's English: no improvement.

Jay


theguy


May 23, 2011, 9:14 PM
Post #10 of 36 (5021 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 13, 2004
Posts: 456

Re: [jt512] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (7 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Update on fleshes training.

Update on Ceebo's English: no improvement.

Jay

Update on Jay's attitude: no improvement :(


lithiummetalman


May 23, 2011, 11:07 PM
Post #11 of 36 (4996 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 286

Re: [theguy] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This means celebratory beer for everyone! Now that's an improvement!


ceebo


May 24, 2011, 5:40 AM
Post #12 of 36 (4944 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [jt512] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Update on fleshes training.

Update on Ceebo's English: no improvement.

Jay

In your own twisted way that was a compliment eh jay?.. awww.. your like a ''little'' adorable gremlin.


ENARE


May 24, 2011, 8:24 AM
Post #13 of 36 (4908 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2011
Posts: 275

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How many rungs are on the ladder you are using?


flesh


May 24, 2011, 12:17 PM
Post #14 of 36 (4847 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [ENARE] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When doing pure power training like campusing or projecting boulders at your limit, I don't recommend climbing more than every other day unless you are in elite shape like 5.14+ or v12 plus climber.

You'll get stronger faster and avoid injury by climbing every other day (ish)


ceebo


May 24, 2011, 1:45 PM
Post #15 of 36 (4820 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
When doing pure power training like campusing or projecting boulders at your limit, I don't recommend climbing more than every other day unless you are in elite shape like 5.14+ or v12 plus climber.

You'll get stronger faster and avoid injury by climbing every other day (ish)

What are your thoughts on very light endurance climbing on rest days? (i just get bored ;p). I read that if it is very easy it can actually help recovery time. This was in the scenario of resting from climbing though, not campusing. I assume the difference would effect the above?.


flesh


May 24, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #16 of 36 (4786 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
flesh wrote:
When doing pure power training like campusing or projecting boulders at your limit, I don't recommend climbing more than every other day unless you are in elite shape like 5.14+ or v12 plus climber.

You'll get stronger faster and avoid injury by climbing every other day (ish)

What are your thoughts on very light endurance climbing on rest days? (i just get bored ;p). I read that if it is very easy it can actually help recovery time. This was in the scenario of resting from climbing though, not campusing. I assume the difference would effect the above?.

Recovery of what? Of the muscles, maybe, I don't know, I'm sure you could find info pro and con. Of the conective tissue? I think not, It's safe to say that the less you climb, the better off your connective tissue will be.

When training power, it only makes sense that you would be at your most powerful when doing it. This requires your body building up it's energy reserves and healing the damaged muscle. When power traiing you need more rest.

After years of climbing and talking with other climbers I'm of the firm belief that for non mutants (99% of climbers) that what holds one back from improving is not whether or not it's possible to get stronger (it always is), but that injuries prevent them from moving forward.

In other words, if you could do whatever you want without getting injured, I guarantee I could get you piss strong with what I know, very quickly.

Because of this, I suggest one views his climbing goals in the long term, what's going to be get me the stongest/best in the next ten years? Not the short term.

Count on getting stonger, even when you losing faith, but do what it takes, even doing what may seem like unncessary measures, not to get injured.

If you want something to do when your not climbing, do cardio and cut weight or work the opposing muscle groups without adding much mass. Watch climbing videos, plan future trips, etc. Maybe focus on making more money so that you can go on some nice trips in the future which will keep the psyche up and allow you to stay motivated and progress. Tongue


ceebo


May 25, 2011, 4:10 AM
Post #17 of 36 (4728 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
ceebo wrote:
flesh wrote:
When doing pure power training like campusing or projecting boulders at your limit, I don't recommend climbing more than every other day unless you are in elite shape like 5.14+ or v12 plus climber.

You'll get stronger faster and avoid injury by climbing every other day (ish)

What are your thoughts on very light endurance climbing on rest days? (i just get bored ;p). I read that if it is very easy it can actually help recovery time. This was in the scenario of resting from climbing though, not campusing. I assume the difference would effect the above?.

Recovery of what? Of the muscles, maybe, I don't know, I'm sure you could find info pro and con. Of the conective tissue? I think not, It's safe to say that the less you climb, the better off your connective tissue will be.

When training power, it only makes sense that you would be at your most powerful when doing it. This requires your body building up it's energy reserves and healing the damaged muscle. When power traiing you need more rest.

After years of climbing and talking with other climbers I'm of the firm belief that for non mutants (99% of climbers) that what holds one back from improving is not whether or not it's possible to get stronger (it always is), but that injuries prevent them from moving forward.

In other words, if you could do whatever you want without getting injured, I guarantee I could get you piss strong with what I know, very quickly.

Because of this, I suggest one views his climbing goals in the long term, what's going to be get me the stongest/best in the next ten years? Not the short term.

Count on getting stonger, even when you losing faith, but do what it takes, even doing what may seem like unncessary measures, not to get injured.

If you want something to do when your not climbing, do cardio and cut weight or work the opposing muscle groups without adding much mass. Watch climbing videos, plan future trips, etc. Maybe focus on making more money so that you can go on some nice trips in the future which will keep the psyche up and allow you to stay motivated and progress. Tongue

And what would that be? out of interest.


flesh


May 25, 2011, 9:43 AM
Post #18 of 36 (4660 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

find an edge that you can barely hold with one hand in the crimp position and hang off it with all your might as long as you can.... shoot for 3-15 seconds, don't thumb over, just crimp. Do this once a week and you'll be crimping two grades harder outside wihtin a few months, also, you'll probably get injured.

Put both hands on the smallest edge you can in the open position and use only your fingers to move into a crimp position... then back to open then back to crimp... etc. .... this hurts even worse, have fun, do till failure then rest 10 minutes and do it again.

This is what people do who are mutants or not mutants but havent learned yet that this will get them injured.... I potentially have experience with this.

Bad long term game plan.


ceebo


May 25, 2011, 1:43 PM
Post #19 of 36 (4622 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
find an edge that you can barely hold with one hand in the crimp position and hang off it with all your might as long as you can.... shoot for 3-15 seconds, don't thumb over, just crimp. Do this once a week and you'll be crimping two grades harder outside wihtin a few months, also, you'll probably get injured.

Put both hands on the smallest edge you can in the open position and use only your fingers to move into a crimp position... then back to open then back to crimp... etc. .... this hurts even worse, have fun, do till failure then rest 10 minutes and do it again.

This is what people do who are mutants or not mutants but havent learned yet that this will get them injured.... I potentially have experience with this.

Bad long term game plan.

Currently with 20lb on my back each arm is taking 84 lb. To go into 1 arm none weighted dead hangs, each arm will be taking 147 lb, but i need to increase the rung size from 3/4 inch to just under 2 inch (i done 1 arm hangs in the past).

Imo it felt like the rung was just too big to give greater finger gains over what i am doing now on smaller rungs with weight. The massive extra weight on a single shoulder/elbow joint was very noticeable and not something i could see them being able to sustain with ought injury.

Perhaps what your suggesting is only for those who have reached the point where they have added so much weight the next logical step is 1 arm hangs. I don't think i'm near ready to sustain that intensity just yet. Perhaps when i get to the point of 30lb doubles on 3/4 inch i could start thinking about it.. but that's a long way off yet Frown, that is.. in hope that my fingers can even handle that.

I take it 1 arm crimping is what you use to do?, was it really that massive in gains?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 25, 2011, 1:46 PM)


flesh


May 25, 2011, 10:33 PM
Post #20 of 36 (4570 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
flesh wrote:
find an edge that you can barely hold with one hand in the crimp position and hang off it with all your might as long as you can.... shoot for 3-15 seconds, don't thumb over, just crimp. Do this once a week and you'll be crimping two grades harder outside wihtin a few months, also, you'll probably get injured.

Put both hands on the smallest edge you can in the open position and use only your fingers to move into a crimp position... then back to open then back to crimp... etc. .... this hurts even worse, have fun, do till failure then rest 10 minutes and do it again.

This is what people do who are mutants or not mutants but havent learned yet that this will get them injured.... I potentially have experience with this.

Bad long term game plan.

Currently with 20lb on my back each arm is taking 84 lb. To go into 1 arm none weighted dead hangs, each arm will be taking 147 lb, but i need to increase the rung size from 3/4 inch to just under 2 inch (i done 1 arm hangs in the past).

Imo it felt like the rung was just too big to give greater finger gains over what i am doing now on smaller rungs with weight. The massive extra weight on a single shoulder/elbow joint was very noticeable and not something i could see them being able to sustain with ought injury.

Perhaps what your suggesting is only for those who have reached the point where they have added so much weight the next logical step is 1 arm hangs. I don't think i'm near ready to sustain that intensity just yet. Perhaps when i get to the point of 30lb doubles on 3/4 inch i could start thinking about it.. but that's a long way off yet Frown, that is.. in hope that my fingers can even handle that.

I take it 1 arm crimping is what you use to do?, was it really that massive in gains?.

Yep one hand crimping ftw, if you want to make gains quickly, however, i can't imagine anything that would be more likely to cause injury. I went up two boulder grades in a few months with this...... shortly after had to take a couple years off because of a horrid finger injury. Don't do it. The mutants can handle it, it seems, they are lucky.

Stick with training open handed.


Kstenson


May 26, 2011, 4:06 AM
Post #21 of 36 (4538 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2011
Posts: 78

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I went back to your original two threads with the intention of trying some of your training out, but you've deleted all yours posts, what made you do that?


sungam


May 26, 2011, 4:41 AM
Post #22 of 36 (4530 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26477

Re: [Kstenson] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Kstenson wrote:
I went back to your original two threads with the intention of trying some of your training out, but you've deleted all yours posts, what made you do that?
Yeah, I think he should un-delete them. I think it was lame and pissy of him to bunk out and get rid of them.

Dude, bring back your original threads. People were reading that shit a lot.


ceebo


May 26, 2011, 5:20 AM
Post #23 of 36 (4520 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [sungam] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
Kstenson wrote:
I went back to your original two threads with the intention of trying some of your training out, but you've deleted all yours posts, what made you do that?
Yeah, I think he should un-delete them. I think it was lame and pissy of him to bunk out and get rid of them.

Dude, bring back your original threads. People were reading that shit a lot.

But mostly morons who still think SCC drills are the definitive answer to everything were replying.


sungam


May 26, 2011, 5:35 AM
Post #24 of 36 (4515 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26477

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
sungam wrote:
Kstenson wrote:
I went back to your original two threads with the intention of trying some of your training out, but you've deleted all yours posts, what made you do that?
Yeah, I think he should un-delete them. I think it was lame and pissy of him to bunk out and get rid of them.

Dude, bring back your original threads. People were reading that shit a lot.

But mostly morons who still think SCC drills are the definitive answer to everything were replying.
Yeah, so flesh got pissy and took his toys and left, which he shouldn't have. People post negative stuff, big deal. Ignore it. People are reading it for a reason.


Kstenson


May 26, 2011, 6:00 AM
Post #25 of 36 (4505 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2011
Posts: 78

Re: [sungam] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:

Yeah, so flesh got pissy and took his toys and left, which he shouldn't have. People post negative stuff, big deal. Ignore it. People are reading it for a reason.

After reading through the 'Homemade Quickdraw" thread it's pretty refreshing to find someone making complete sense on this website (no homo)


sungam


May 26, 2011, 6:18 AM
Post #26 of 36 (1352 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26477

Re: [Kstenson] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Kstenson wrote:
(no homo)
Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.
So, you're saying that I'm making sense, or that Flesh's posts make sense?


ceebo


May 26, 2011, 6:46 AM
Post #27 of 36 (1349 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [sungam] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
Kstenson wrote:
(no homo)
Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.
So, you're saying that I'm making sense, or that Flesh's posts make sense?

Your Scottish, you inherently never make sense ;p.


sungam


May 26, 2011, 6:58 AM
Post #28 of 36 (1345 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26477

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
sungam wrote:
Kstenson wrote:
(no homo)
Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.
So, you're saying that I'm making sense, or that Flesh's posts make sense?

Your Scottish, you inherently never make sense ;p.
I swear to gaia if you start with the dumbfuck cultural stereotyping I will PTPP your ass to tgreeneville. Do not start that shit.


ceebo


May 26, 2011, 7:08 AM
Post #29 of 36 (1339 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [sungam] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
ceebo wrote:
sungam wrote:
Kstenson wrote:
(no homo)
Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.
So, you're saying that I'm making sense, or that Flesh's posts make sense?

Your Scottish, you inherently never make sense ;p.
I swear to gaia if you start with the dumbfuck cultural stereotyping I will PTPP your ass to tgreeneville. Do not start that shit.

Only 3 swear words, 2 sentences.. at least your ahead of the curve, slightly.

Na i love the scotts ;p.


spikeddem


May 26, 2011, 7:36 PM
Post #30 of 36 (1277 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [ceebo] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
sungam wrote:
ceebo wrote:
sungam wrote:
Kstenson wrote:
(no homo)
Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.
So, you're saying that I'm making sense, or that Flesh's posts make sense?

Your Scottish, you inherently never make sense ;p.
I swear to gaia if you start with the dumbfuck cultural stereotyping I will PTPP your ass to tgreeneville. Do not start that shit.

Only 3 swear words, 2 sentences.. at least your ahead of the curve, slightly.

Na i love the scotts ;p.

Yeah, me too. They're just so _________.


flesh


May 27, 2011, 10:18 PM
Post #31 of 36 (1209 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [spikeddem] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just looked to see if I could undelete some of the posts and I didn't see the option.

I was planning on starting a training site, registered the domain name anyonecanclimbv10.com...lol but i just cant find the time to put it all there.

If you can tell me how to undelete I'll do it on some of them.

Probably going forward I could just film the campusing with a description.


sungam


May 28, 2011, 12:48 AM
Post #32 of 36 (1199 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26477

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
I just looked to see if I could undelete some of the posts and I didn't see the option.

I was planning on starting a training site, registered the domain name anyonecanclimbv10.com...lol but i just cant find the time to put it all there.

If you can tell me how to undelete I'll do it on some of them.

Probably going forward I could just film the campusing with a description.
Send a private message to the username DDT, he is the manager of the website. See if he can do something (I suspect he can).


Rufsen


May 30, 2011, 2:44 AM
Post #33 of 36 (1126 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2008
Posts: 126

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
I just looked to see if I could undelete some of the posts and I didn't see the option.

I was planning on starting a training site, registered the domain name anyonecanclimbv10.com...lol but i just cant find the time to put it all there.

If you can tell me how to undelete I'll do it on some of them.

Probably going forward I could just film the campusing with a description.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liU4kJ-xlhI

Here is a video showing some double dynos, about 0:35. Using more than two fingers are recommended, wearing less awesome pants are not.

And i agree with everyone else. Stop deleting your stuff.


lazymonkey


Jun 7, 2011, 3:50 AM
Post #34 of 36 (1017 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2010
Posts: 75

Re: [Kstenson] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Any advice for a gumby?? Only been climbing about 8 months, and last week hurt my finger for the first time working a v5 at the gym...once healed would it be safe to work a campus board that is all slopers? Or should I just be worrying about climbing?


flesh


Jun 7, 2011, 9:24 AM
Post #35 of 36 (981 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 413

Re: [lazymonkey] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Rufsen, cool video of cavuzzo, guys sick, and ya, don't campus two fingers unless your are leet and not injury prone.

other guy who boulders v5.... just climb alot and don't crimp hard very often... maybe around v7 at your gym come back to campusing, and only work the safest methods for awhile.


billcoe_


Jun 7, 2011, 12:56 PM
Post #36 of 36 (951 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4658

Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Flesh, heads up buddy. When you put your heart and soul into a post, like your training shizz. Make a copy and stick it in Google Documents. That way, next time some internet boy wonder

starts in and pisses you off and you just can't take it anymore so you delete your post: you still have it for your buddies if you want it.

Furthermore, on things like training that will evolve over time, it's easy to pull up and change it on google docs: and you don't have to spend all am looking for it on RC.com.

BTW, I'm too fat to campus, have some painful arthritic fingers too that make it worse, but I do old man training and I do read your stuff. Thanks!


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.95 (10% off)
$49.46 (10% off)
$57.56 (10% off)
$152.95 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook