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So, there's a route you want to redpoint...
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jt512


Aug 17, 2011, 9:38 PM
Post #126 of 127 (326 views)
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [redonkulus] So, there's a route you want to redpoint... [In reply to]
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redonkulus wrote:
jt512 wrote:
redonkulus wrote:
jt512 wrote:
redonkulus wrote:
jt512 wrote:
That's inefficient. If it's way above your on-sight level, there is no point in trying to on-sight it; you're just wasting time and energy that you could invest in working the route in sections to learn the moves.

Jay

So Jay, do you just divide the route into sections at the bottom, that you know you must work on? Like, "I'll try and climb from ground to bolt 2, then I'll rest, then I'll lower and do that again, then I'll climb from bolt 2 to bolt 3.5, then repeat 3 times...etc."?

No, that would be about the most inefficient way to work a route that I can imagine. It could take a dozen burns before you ever even got to sample the top of the route. Besides, your budget for leaver biners would have to be enormous.

Are you the only sport climber left who hasn't heard of hangdogging? The idea on your first few burns is to use a little energy as possible while learning as much as possible about the route. You work a section, and then hang at a bolt before getting pumped. But you should usually try and go to the anchors, because on redpoint you'll be most fatigued at the top of the route, and so you'll have to have the top of the route wired.

Jay

Ah, from the way you put it earlier, it seemed like you were saying that you wanted to work a section multiple times, until you had it wired, rather than climbing as far on the flash attempt as possible. I might be combining a bit of Spike's reply with that one, my bad. If you only work your way bolt to bolt once, what's the difference? I find that I tend to remember moves just as well when I've climbed straight through three sections as I would if I've climbed three sections once each, resting at the bolt in between. If I get to a section I can't do, I'll fall, and have to start working it from the last bolt again anyway, same as you would do had you gotten to that bolt and rested.

I think you guys are just afraid to take falls...Tongue

Fixed that world-class cheesetit of yours.

No, it's not a question of being afraid of falls. You'll take more falls doing what I suggest than doing what you do. The point is, while still learning the moves, never climb to muscle failure. The additional time you'll have to spend recovering will reduce your total time working the route. That's why it's so inefficient.

Jay

Dunno what a cheesetit is, but it's a tasty image.

Look at the quoting in your previous message. That's cheesetitting.

In reply to:
I get ya now, you just wanna expend as little energy as possible while getting to experience all of the moves on the route, no?

Pretty much, yeah. But the underlying reason is that getting pumped reduces the quantity and quality of the work you can do for the rest of the day. If you can avoid getting pumped on an early burn, then you should be able to get in either more burns, higher-quality burns, or both during the rest of the day. You might even be able to get a same-day redpoint that you couldn't have otherwise.

Jay


redonkulus


Aug 18, 2011, 9:48 AM
Post #127 of 127 (298 views)
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Registered: May 2, 2010
Posts: 214

Re: [jt512] So, there's a route you want to redpoint... [In reply to]
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Fair enough, I'll give it a try sometime. I rarely get on routes that are 3 or 4 routes above my max, so I've never really had the opportunity or need to work a route in that manner.

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