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Impact force vs. fall length, fixed fall factor
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Partner cracklover


Jul 19, 2011, 8:33 AM
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Re: [ptlong2] Impact force vs. fall length, fixed fall factor [In reply to]
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ptlong2 wrote:
cracklover wrote:

Cracklover, since the fall length and fall factor are not independent in Pavier's data it is hard to know whether the effect you think you see is due to one or the other or both.

That is a very good point. He has very few low ff falls with a lot of rope, or high FF falls with a little rope.

GO


cellige


Jul 25, 2011, 9:45 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Impact force vs. fall length, fixed fall factor [In reply to]
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While I would love to see the solution to these differing data sets, I have another question pertaining to the topic.

Has anyone investigated the difference in friction in the system under different velocities? A longer fall should build up much more heat for example on the top carabiner. What effect would this have?

Also, considering ropes reach their elasticity limits first about 10 feet from their knot (correct me if that is wrong, but I remember rope manufacturers reporting this), would a longer fall put more good rope of an older rope on the higher force side of the top piece and thus reduce the force on the top piece? Just a wild thought.

I was keen to hear more about rope drag in all of this, because it seems that could be a significant factor since it is in the top portion of a pitch you could see the longest falls if your spacing your gear farther and farther apart.

Your discussion on the reported data however is very interesting, thanks for the time and insight.

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