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Construction and pull testing of specific itmes.
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tugboat


Jul 28, 2011, 12:29 AM
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Re: [JimTitt] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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so they dont have a fisherman's tie-off
....i should have said overhand knot....


tugboat


Jul 28, 2011, 12:38 AM
Post #52 of 73 (2790 views)
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Re: [JimTitt] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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If you want to horrify yourself tie the ends of two ropes together (like for rapping) and tuck BOTH ends back exactly as in your picture. Then pull the two ropes apart, you donīt need to put this one on the tester!
And yes, it was fatal.

Jim, your not actually saying someone did that are you!?....crazy.

Reminds of climbing with a fellow whos 'hike down' shoes came flying off his carabiner/gear loop. I laughingly said "what did you do?....tie those on with a slip not?..."... unfazed, he replied, "...ah,...yes,...i did." He died climbing several years later.


tugboat


Jul 28, 2011, 11:43 PM
Post #53 of 73 (2752 views)
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Re: [tugboat] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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Setup gear today to do "rabbit ears" and "yosemite finish"....hopefully get them busted for ya tomorrow. Then on to the dorkalette and original equallet. Had to get "Tugs" eating again... he decided the only food he wants now is the most expensive....wouldn't you know it!


sandstone


Jul 29, 2011, 6:37 AM
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Re: [tugboat] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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Best wishes for Tugs, and thanks for your testing.


acorneau


Jul 29, 2011, 7:43 AM
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Re: [tugboat] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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Hey Tugboat,

If you have time I would love to get a test on a standard two-point Triplette using 7mm cord, tied with overhands, and with two biners at the master point.

For reference here's a couple of pictures:

The second set of knots are not needed in this example:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....cgi?query=triplette

This example has the left side split to two points, which isn't needed:


Also, sorry to hear about your puppy dog. Hang in there!


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 29, 2011, 7:48 AM)


sungam


Jul 29, 2011, 8:10 AM
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Re: [tugboat] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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tugboat wrote:
Just so people looking for testing know... I do have time to spare these days for testing,... however my poor old dog, Tugboat, is living day by day with cancer. Generally, with medication, and lots of treats and love he has mostly good days still. However, as you could appreciate, since he is my only family and best friend, he comes first. Sometimes, out of the blue, i get tied up for a few days, full time, taking care of his needs. So tests might get put on hold all of a sudden for a couple days. Hope you all understand. But, be reassured, all requests will get carried out..... cause when it comes to 'bustin' stuff, i just can't resistWink

Hey an, sorry to hear about your dog. My dog has bone cancer in her leg and is feeling pretty rough.


Thanks for taking the time to pull-test. It's what the lab is all about. I think some problems could be avoided this time by not having you on the "staff". People seemed to get the idea that it was RC.com testing gear rather then a dude who happened to be a mod doing it. I remember one thread where someone asked for rc.com's official statement re: aliens.

Have fun bustin' stuff!


Partner cracklover


Jul 29, 2011, 8:53 AM
Post #57 of 73 (2718 views)
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Re: [tugboat] Construction and pull testing of specific itmes. [In reply to]
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tugboat wrote:
cracklover wrote:
tugboat wrote:
Yup....no prob. It was fun.


"Next...."?

Hi Tugboat, you still have time to kill?

I have some fixed draws I pulled (and replaced) from a sport climb after discovering how worn they were. I'd love to see just how much they could have held.

GO

yup....no prob... i can bust em.

ill msg you my mailing address if you want them checked.

Okay, the two dogbones are in the mail. USPS says about two weeks.

Maybe take a pic of each and post it here, and we can take bets on the breaking point of each?

GO


tugboat


Jul 29, 2011, 1:31 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
Hey Tugboat,

If you have time I would love to get a test on a standard two-point Triplette using 7mm cord, tied with overhands, and with two biners at the master point.

For reference here's a couple of pictures:

The second set of knots are not needed in this example:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....cgi?query=triplette

This example has the left side split to two points, which isn't needed:
[image]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/8/22/203749_31470_L.jpg[/image]

Also, sorry to hear about your puppy dog. Hang in there!

Added to the list!


tugboat


Jul 29, 2011, 1:33 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Construction and pull testing of specific itmes. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
tugboat wrote:
cracklover wrote:
tugboat wrote:
Yup....no prob. It was fun.


"Next...."?

Hi Tugboat, you still have time to kill?

I have some fixed draws I pulled (and replaced) from a sport climb after discovering how worn they were. I'd love to see just how much they could have held.

GO

yup....no prob... i can bust em.

ill msg you my mailing address if you want them checked.

Okay, the two dogbones are in the mail. USPS says about two weeks.

Maybe take a pic of each and post it here, and we can take bets on the breaking point of each?

GO

Cool. they will be video'd like the other 'pulls'.


tugboat


Jul 29, 2011, 1:44 PM
Post #60 of 73 (2691 views)
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Re: [sungam] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Thanks for taking the time to pull-test. It's what the lab is all about. I think some problems could be avoided this time by not having you on the "staff". People seemed to get the idea that it was RC.com testing gear rather then a dude who happened to be a mod doing it. I remember one thread where someone asked for rc.com's official statement re: aliens.

yeah,... i understand that. I have no financial vested interest or affiliation. Just equipment and the love of busting stuff!. And people should/will make there own judgements about stuff. I wish not to endorse nor advise anything. My testing should in no way be deemed definitive or even scientifically correct for the purpose of rock climbing; that, (if its not obvious) is my wavier of liabilityWink


edge


Jul 29, 2011, 1:50 PM
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Re: [tugboat] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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Tugboat, thanks for all the work breaking stuff.

For the sake of clarity, maybe you could start a well titled thread for each new test so that discussions and searches will be more relevant to each particular project?

Cheers!


tugboat


Jul 29, 2011, 5:05 PM
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Re: [edge] Double eight anchor test. [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Tugboat, thanks for all the work breaking stuff.

For the sake of clarity, maybe you could start a well titled thread for each new test so that discussions and searches will be more relevant to each particular project?

Cheers!

makes sense. will do.


dagibbs


Aug 4, 2011, 10:37 AM
Post #63 of 73 (2586 views)
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Tests? [In reply to]
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Can you do repeated lower-force loads?

I don't know if they have been tested before (probably?) but the simple overhand knot for joining two ropes for a rappel. Probably figure 8" tails or so.

A rappel is going to be far more of a repeated low (body weight plus a bit) load, rather than the high load of a fall.


tugboat


Aug 4, 2011, 7:24 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Tests? [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
Can you do repeated lower-force loads?

I don't know if they have been tested before (probably?) but the simple overhand knot for joining two ropes for a rappel. Probably figure 8" tails or so.

A rappel is going to be far more of a repeated low (body weight plus a bit) load, rather than the high load of a fall.

Hey daggibs. The low and high loading of overhand, fig eight etc on rappel have been thoroughly investigated on the web over years. As roy-jr-hinkley has pointed out. He is quite right. Given how long the setups take and my dog's illness, its probably not one i would get a around too currently. Do a search on "rappel accident/death" posted on rec.climbing (news) or 'tradgirl.com or at this website: very reasearched topic.....

goodluck.... any tests that you can't find covered or add further knowledge i could consider. Thanks for you inquiry.

my research on this topic has led me to wanting to see the "flipping or rolling" inside out of the overhand not etc when tied for rappel in certain setups. If i do i will let you know. But it is sort of a dead topic here.

peace,


(This post was edited by tugboat on Aug 4, 2011, 7:58 PM)


tugboat


Aug 4, 2011, 8:39 PM
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Re: [tugboat] Tests? [In reply to]
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oh...and as regards "repeated" low loading testing; this is a very useful test in harnesses, gear, etc, since this is generally the usage they see. And low repeated loading can often be the variable that is more of a problem than high loading....especially in my field of work.

On that note,... i looked into a "cyclic loading tester" when putting my business together. My inquiries found that one would need a pneumatic setup that at the time wasn't reasonable for my facility or budget.

So, "no",....i can't do repeated low load testing that would give significant numeric results eg hundreds or thousands of pulls.


miklaw


Aug 5, 2011, 2:43 AM
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Re: [tugboat] Tests? [In reply to]
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Real "SN" tests (stress vs number of cycles to failure) require thousands (or millions) of cycles and lots of specimens. A quick and dirty alternative is something I developed (and probably many before me) , The Block Test. If you know the failure load, start at 10% of that, give it 5 cycles, go up 5% in load and give it another 5 cycles, etc etc till it breaks.
We did a lot of tests on fixed anchors like this.
http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/display/thelab/Fatigue+testing
Attachments: fig%2031.jpg (50.4 KB)


tugboat


Aug 9, 2011, 9:03 PM
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Tests... [In reply to]
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Work has picked up,....so request are on hold for a week or so. But still on the burner.

Thanks all.


binrat


Aug 10, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Re: [tugboat] Tests... [In reply to]
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tugboat wrote:
Work has picked up,....so request are on hold for a week or so. But still on the burner.

Thanks all.
Its good that work has picked up. Thank you for the tests that you have completed.


scrapedape


Aug 26, 2011, 8:00 AM
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Re: [binrat] Tests... [In reply to]
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How about testing of triaxial loading of carabiners?

We all know this is "bad," but do we know how bad it is?

This has been causing some friction over here in another thread, in which I have been, shamefully, a little too engaged: http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

I would imagine testing triaxial loading would require some kind of customized testing rig to be set up, which might require some thought.


tugboat


Aug 26, 2011, 1:11 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Tests... [In reply to]
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Ill check it out when work lets off the gas pedal a bit. Right now its pinned to the floor..... which is good...but very tired.

Cracklover's slings are next up to be broken. Then ill go from there.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Sorry to all those waiting on testing requests....but when work starts to fly i gotta run with it.

peace


Partner cracklover


Sep 9, 2011, 8:36 AM
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Re: [tugboat] Tests... [In reply to]
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tugboat wrote:
Ill check it out when work lets off the gas pedal a bit. Right now its pinned to the floor..... which is good...but very tired.

Cracklover's slings are next up to be broken. Then ill go from there.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Sorry to all those waiting on testing requests....but when work starts to fly i gotta run with it.

peace

For those of you interested in checking out the dogbones I cleaned off a route - here's a link to the new thread (I only just noticed the new thread the other day): http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2529000

GO


dindolino32


Oct 16, 2011, 10:21 AM
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Re: [tugboat] Construction and pull testing of specific itmes. [In reply to]
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Hey tugboat, I have a possibly new pull test project for you. I searched for this but using key words "fig 8 and carabiner" tend to give a ton of results so sorry if this has been tested already.
I have seen a couple of people at a nearby gym clip a biner IN the fig 8 knot to ease in untying the knot if a lead fall takes place. I never have practiced this as it would seem to compromise the integrity of the knot. Also, I am not sure whether it is clipped in the proximal loop or the distal loop compared to the harness tie in point. I assume the proximal would definitely be a problem. Any info would be nice to see.
Thanks
Dan


acorneau


Oct 25, 2011, 1:49 PM
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Re: [dindolino32] Construction and pull testing of specific itmes. [In reply to]
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dindolino32 wrote:
I have seen a couple of people at a nearby gym clip a biner IN the fig 8 knot to ease in untying the knot if a lead fall takes place.

I've seen people put a biner in knots while rigging a top-rope anchor but never in someone's tie-in knot.

What if something like a quickdraw catches on the spare biner? Sounds sketchy to me.

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