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jacques


Jul 21, 2011, 8:17 AM
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a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?


(This post was edited by jacques on Jul 21, 2011, 8:22 AM)


superchuffer


Jul 21, 2011, 8:23 AM
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i am a chicken and a haulbag.


lithiummetalman


Jul 21, 2011, 9:39 AM
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I was born in the year of the chicken....


JimTitt


Jul 21, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Chicken tastes sooo goood!


chadnsc


Jul 21, 2011, 10:41 AM
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superchuffer wrote:
i am a chicken and a haulbag.

I'm shaped like a haulbag. Wink


Kartessa


Jul 21, 2011, 11:08 AM
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jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

You really need to start citing Google Translate for your posts


jt512


Jul 21, 2011, 11:30 AM
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jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

No, including yours.

Jay


wmfork


Jul 21, 2011, 12:08 PM
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Karl really likes to lead, doesn't he? - Yes.
Even more, he likes the title of leader.
As if that makes him a leader.

--Eiger Sanction


johnwesely


Jul 21, 2011, 12:19 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
i am a chicken and a haulbag.

I'm shaped like a haulbag. Wink

I am shaped like a poop tube.


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2011, 12:55 PM
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jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

A leader is someone who knows how use the resources he has on his position to get the job down

A smart leader let some chicken do the leading while he cleans up and if chicken decided to fly then leader just watches the chicken fall.


BumpinUgly


Jul 21, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

You really need to start citing Google Translate for your posts

Or enroll in the Evelyn Woodhead Speed Reading Course...


rangerrob


Jul 21, 2011, 1:53 PM
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Wesley you probably smell like a poop tube after a week or so in Camp Slime!

Seriously though, does anyone else get a kick out of reading Jacques posts? I think they are hilarious!


JimTitt


Jul 22, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Actually I find them cool in a mesmerising sort-of way, like going into a house of horrors or something like that.
I guess the fascination is that maybe one day Ill understand one and know Im mad.


jacques


Jul 22, 2011, 7:24 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

A leader is someone who knows how use the resources he has on his position to get the job down.

Your definition is a lot better them mine


jeepnphreak


Jul 22, 2011, 8:19 PM
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depends on the day, if I have a good night sleep and a lot of coffee I love leading.

But some days I'm just not feeling it and take the follower's or the chicken's place.


climbingtrash


Jul 23, 2011, 6:41 AM
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In '08 i was a chicken bat.




chadnsc


Jul 23, 2011, 7:03 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
i am a chicken and a haulbag.

I'm shaped like a haulbag. Wink

I am shaped like a poop tube.

Are you full of shit like a poop tube?


johnwesely


Jul 23, 2011, 7:45 AM
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chadnsc wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
i am a chicken and a haulbag.

I'm shaped like a haulbag. Wink

I am shaped like a poop tube.

Are you full of shit like a poop tube?

Nope.


jacques


Jul 26, 2011, 9:04 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote:
depends on the day, if I have a good night sleep and a lot of coffee I love leading.

But some days I'm just not feeling it and take the follower's or the chicken's place.

For me, it depends on my partner. My best partner was strong and he stop climbing regularly. Today, he like to climb under his level. I went climbing with him with two other guy. the team of four start at the bottom of wedge and finish at the top. I always took the sharp end of the rope, but I wasn't the leader for the entire route. It is true that I took the decision to where I place my pro. but he looked at the security of the team and, answering my question when I inform him if I can do a manipulation or giving me and information to be safer,...he led all the way to the top. I never by pass his authority.

For me a good leader is someone with enought experience that he know before that some think will go wrong after. He will place his team in a safe mode or in an attack mode to have fun or to protect them.

Inversely, a good follower is someone who can take his place and help the leader to do his job. He can be pro active and make some mistake. But he never try to take the place of the leader because he arrive first at the belay.


hyhuu


Jul 28, 2011, 11:25 AM
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I'm a chicken but I like to climb. So if someone wants to lead, I'll follow. If not, I'll lead it.


aprice00


Jul 28, 2011, 12:08 PM
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Huh I like to read Jacques post with a russian accent. I picture him as a middleaged bearded guy with big manly hair chest.
Like this guy



jbro_135


Jul 28, 2011, 1:53 PM
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jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who likes to be the center of the attraction. He wants to lead the hardier pitches, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who backs up the leader to avoid him to make mistakes. He likes to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He takes his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climbers think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He needs bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he wants to be hold tightly, critic you or always wants to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?


kennoyce


Jul 28, 2011, 3:32 PM
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Depends on the day, I'd say 70% of the time i'm a leader, 5% of the time i'm a follower, and 20% of the time i'm a chicken!


sungam


Jul 28, 2011, 4:43 PM
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Yeah, but you should catch him on that other 5%. DAYUM.
There really isn't a catagory.


alleyehave


Jul 31, 2011, 2:00 AM
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Okay, the original post has made me realize a few different conclusions:

1) I've lost all faith in humanity that I ever once had.

2) If general humanity ever stood a chance, general stupidity would interfere.

3) Try as hard as you want, regardless, you won't get any further. Trying hard equals to striving hard. Striving hard means not understanding what you're striving for.


(This post was edited by alleyehave on Jul 31, 2011, 12:48 PM)


rangerrob


Jul 31, 2011, 3:02 AM
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Very profound Neitschze. You should give up climbing and write the sequel to "Thus Spoke Zarathustra"


cornstateclimber


Jul 31, 2011, 7:33 AM
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chadnsc wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
i am a chicken and a haulbag.

I'm shaped like a haulbag. Wink

Im shaped more like the rope with a huge knot in the middle!


Nanook123


Feb 7, 2013, 4:09 PM
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jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

This is the essence of climbing in my opinion. Where is the outrage at the sport "climbers" who have tarnished the reputation of the sport along with tarnishing the routes with unslightly bolts.


WOLF_Larsen85


Feb 10, 2013, 8:43 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

You really need to start citing Google Translate for your posts

That's just mean.


sknowlton


Feb 15, 2013, 6:30 AM
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Nanook123 wrote:
jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

This is the essence of climbing in my opinion. Where is the outrage at the sport "climbers" who have tarnished the reputation of the sport along with tarnishing the routes with unslightly bolts.

Stainless steel, son. Stainless.


Kartessa


Feb 15, 2013, 9:06 PM
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WOLF_Larsen85 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction. He want to lead the hardier pitch, protect the other climber, be in charge of the security.

In good teams, there always a leader and a follower. the follower is someone who back up the leader to avoid him to make mistake. He like to climb hard, but not necessary to be at the sharp end of the rope. He take his turn and his very strong.

For many years, trad climber think that a chicken is someone with no balls. He need bolt to be secure, belay anchor, etc. With sport climbing, this is not true anymore. Some people are very strong mentally and can sustain stress. but still: when you climb with someone and every think is perfect and he want to be hold tightly, critic you or always want to bail when we begin to have fun...he is a chicken.

so, did you have any experience of one or more of these three categories. for example, I climbed Mt washington in winter and my partner begin to be tired and afraid to climb at the mc donald at littleton the day before the climb.

At the opposite, I simul climb a 300 meters route in 45 minutes with a good leader without any stress.

any good story?

You really need to start citing Google Translate for your posts

That's just mean.

I was just trying to help out a fellow Canadian... you got something against Canadians?


amax


Apr 4, 2013, 1:33 PM
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jacques wrote:
a leader is someone who like to be the center of the attraction.
If desire to be in the center of attraction is your primary motivation for leading trad, you are doing it for wrong reasons, son Tongue


billcoe_


Apr 2, 2014, 1:37 PM
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I've been all 3. Sometimes even the same day on the same route. If I haven't been getting out, say early on in the season due to months and months of winter rain, or surgery - like now, I'm a balless chicken. I was out bouldering last week and that's how I felt. No bolts in sight.

Ball less Chicken, more like a Capon than a hen. Something like this:




Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


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