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climbingtrash


Sep 1, 2011, 7:41 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough subtle reinforcing glue and cleaning chipping can make anything possible

Also PTFTWs can make things possible too.


lena_chita
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Sep 2, 2011, 4:22 AM
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Re: [drivel] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Awesome TR, Lena.

Would you believe that all I've done in Utah is boulder? I'm pretty terrible at bouldering too, especially when I rolled through there way back when. I've got to get back there and on some routes sometime.
Well, I just so happen not know a group of people planning a trip there next summer...

*Romulan eyebrow raise*

desert circle-jerk?


I would definitely like to be present for THAT... even if just as an observer.


climbingtrash


Sep 2, 2011, 6:14 AM
Post #28 of 45 (1457 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Awesome TR, Lena.

Would you believe that all I've done in Utah is boulder? I'm pretty terrible at bouldering too, especially when I rolled through there way back when. I've got to get back there and on some routes sometime.
Well, I just so happen not know a group of people planning a trip there next summer...

*Romulan eyebrow raise*

desert circle-jerk?


I would definitely like to be present for THAT... even if just as an observer.

I'll climb with you lena. Then we can poynte and laff at the g3rks.


lena_chita
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Sep 2, 2011, 6:23 AM
Post #29 of 45 (1451 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Awesome TR, Lena.

Would you believe that all I've done in Utah is boulder? I'm pretty terrible at bouldering too, especially when I rolled through there way back when. I've got to get back there and on some routes sometime.
Well, I just so happen not know a group of people planning a trip there next summer...

*Romulan eyebrow raise*

desert circle-jerk?


I would definitely like to be present for THAT... even if just as an observer.

I'll climb with you lena. Then we can poynte and laff at the g3rks.

We've got a deal.


drivel


Sep 2, 2011, 6:29 AM
Post #30 of 45 (1447 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Awesome TR, Lena.

Would you believe that all I've done in Utah is boulder? I'm pretty terrible at bouldering too, especially when I rolled through there way back when. I've got to get back there and on some routes sometime.
Well, I just so happen not know a group of people planning a trip there next summer...

*Romulan eyebrow raise*

desert circle-jerk?


I would definitely like to be present for THAT... even if just as an observer.

I'll climb with you lena. Then we can poynte and laff at the g3rks.

We've got a deal.


et tu, lena????


climbingtrash


Sep 2, 2011, 6:31 AM
Post #31 of 45 (1443 views)
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Re: [drivel] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Awesome TR, Lena.

Would you believe that all I've done in Utah is boulder? I'm pretty terrible at bouldering too, especially when I rolled through there way back when. I've got to get back there and on some routes sometime.
Well, I just so happen not know a group of people planning a trip there next summer...

*Romulan eyebrow raise*

desert circle-jerk?


I would definitely like to be present for THAT... even if just as an observer.

I'll climb with you lena. Then we can poynte and laff at the g3rks.

We've got a deal.


et tu, lena????

jeluz?


damienclimber


Sep 2, 2011, 3:31 PM
Post #32 of 45 (1410 views)
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Registered: Jul 13, 2011
Posts: 313

Re: [superchuffer] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


superchuffer


Sep 2, 2011, 9:31 PM
Post #33 of 45 (1393 views)
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Re: [damienclimber] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?

no way. 5.9+ on a good day, but my trad ethics supersede any athletic ability you and the rest of the sportos may have


Partner j_ung


Sep 3, 2011, 4:28 AM
Post #34 of 45 (1377 views)
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Posts: 18687

Re: [granite_grrl] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Awesome TR, Lena.

Would you believe that all I've done in Utah is boulder? I'm pretty terrible at bouldering too, especially when I rolled through there way back when. I've got to get back there and on some routes sometime.
Well, I just so happen not know a group of people planning a trip there next summer...

*Romulan eyebrow raise*


Vulcan. Vulcan eyebrow raise. Jeez!


lena_chita
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Sep 3, 2011, 8:27 AM
Post #35 of 45 (1361 views)
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Re: [damienclimber] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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damienclimber wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.


carabiner96


Sep 3, 2011, 9:58 AM
Post #36 of 45 (1355 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
damienclimber wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.


Enigma is just jealous that someone climbs with you more than once.


superchuffer


Sep 3, 2011, 2:43 PM
Post #37 of 45 (1336 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.

to be fair, the whole glued, chipped monstrosity of a cave has permadraws so you can't redpoint even if you want to. but that is what you get for being a scared sport weenie.

here in new mexico, gluers and chippers get tarred and feathered, and publicly humiliated. in utah, ethics only seem to apply to weak beer, holy underwear, voting republican.


camhead


Sep 3, 2011, 4:27 PM
Post #38 of 45 (1325 views)
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Re: [superchuffer] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.

to be fair, the whole glued, chipped monstrosity of a cave has permadraws so you can't redpoint even if you want to. but that is what you get for being a scared sport weenie.

here in new mexico, gluers and chippers get tarred and feathered, and publicly humiliated. in utah, ethics only seem to apply to weak beer, holy underwear, voting republican.

Dude, everywhere with choss has glue and chipping. New Mexico is no exception. You wanna tell me that El Rito is any different than Maple?


superchuffer


Sep 3, 2011, 6:37 PM
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Re: [camhead] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.

to be fair, the whole glued, chipped monstrosity of a cave has permadraws so you can't redpoint even if you want to. but that is what you get for being a scared sport weenie.

here in new mexico, gluers and chippers get tarred and feathered, and publicly humiliated. in utah, ethics only seem to apply to weak beer, holy underwear, voting republican.

Dude, everywhere with choss has glue and chipping. New Mexico is no exception. You wanna tell me that El Rito is any different than Maple?

rock comes off all the time at el rito and other places, but it doesn't get glued back on. case in point:

http://www.mountainproject.com/...-lightning/106376978

people look down on gluers as the scum they are.

http://www.mountainproject.com/...cussion/107037197__1

New Mexico, love it, or leave it the choss pile it is.


climbingtrash


Sep 4, 2011, 4:47 AM
Post #40 of 45 (1300 views)
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Re: [superchuffer] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.

to be fair, the whole glued, chipped monstrosity of a cave has permadraws so you can't redpoint even if you want to. but that is what you get for being a scared sport weenie.

here in new mexico, gluers and chippers get tarred and feathered, and publicly humiliated. in utah, ethics only seem to apply to weak beer, holy underwear, voting republican.

The ethical problem people like you have with gluing and chipping on routes is when it's done poorly, as do I. But I know of 3 routes for certain here in Utah that where reinforced/modified and they are considered classics by the greater climbing community. I'm willing to bet there are routes in New Ghetto-ico like that too...you just don't know it.


Nipple


Sep 4, 2011, 7:39 AM
Post #41 of 45 (1289 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.

to be fair, the whole glued, chipped monstrosity of a cave has permadraws so you can't redpoint even if you want to. but that is what you get for being a scared sport weenie.

here in new mexico, gluers and chippers get tarred and feathered, and publicly humiliated. in utah, ethics only seem to apply to weak beer, holy underwear, voting republican.

The ethical problem people like you have with gluing and chipping on routes is when it's done poorly, as do I. But I know of 3 routes for certain here in Utah that where reinforced/modified and they are considered classics by the greater climbing community. I'm willing to bet there are routes in New Ghetto-ico like that too...you just don't know it.


I hesitate to say you have never climbed on the route in disscussion Mr. Trash. It is not re-inforced and cleaned, it has several two finger pockets drilled into the roof in addition to tons of glue. That is not cleaning, that is manufacturing. That being said, I enjoyed the redpoint greatly. (F. off Super geek) However, I had no illusions as to the amount work that went into the climb and how much of it was actually a "natural" climb.

As for El Rito? Dude, get your facts straight. El rito does not have one iota of glue, was not cleaned well, and still loses holds regularly. This is the primary reason why El Rito sucks balls. It's too sharp, too sandy, and filled with too many chuff- tards who top rope the only quality climbs to 1/2 height over and over again. If Foley had the fortitude to actully create climbs at El Rito, or at least the audacity to take a file to The Thing, there would be a great climbing area in NM, instead of a shitty natural one.


caughtinside


Sep 4, 2011, 8:50 PM
Post #42 of 45 (1257 views)
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Re: [superchuffer] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
too bad all those hanging draws make everything a pinkpoint and invalid.

sprout... proving that enough glue and chipping can make anything possible

Well, the photos were very good.
Frankly I'm disappointed about the pinkpoint too. Especially since you are 5.12 climber ?


I am sorry all the pre-hung draws caused you such disappointment. I will look forward to your "I took-my-draws-off-before-each-attempt" trip report in the future.

to be fair, the whole glued, chipped monstrosity of a cave has permadraws so you can't redpoint even if you want to. but that is what you get for being a scared sport weenie.

here in new mexico, gluers and chippers get tarred and feathered, and publicly humiliated. in utah, ethics only seem to apply to weak beer, holy underwear, voting republican.

Dude, everywhere with choss has glue and chipping. New Mexico is no exception. You wanna tell me that El Rito is any different than Maple?

rock comes off all the time at el rito and other places, but it doesn't get glued back on. case in point:

http://www.mountainproject.com/...-lightning/106376978

people look down on gluers as the scum they are.

http://www.mountainproject.com/...cussion/107037197__1

New Mexico, love it, or leave it the choss pile it is.

Sorry Chuffy, but from the outside looking in, there is only one name in New Mexico climbing, and that is Timy. Personally, I've always liked that he is honest and up front about what it takes to turn choss into fun climbing. So I'm afraid your little bastion of ethics argument doesn't really stand up.


camhead


Sep 5, 2011, 5:28 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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Sprout is as fake as Pamela Anderson's bewbs, and way more fun. The fake pockets connect an obvious warmup with an obvious line out the lip of the cave, but the crux and meat of the route is completely manufactured.

That said, I'm not discussing this topic any more in Lena's awesomeYewtah thread. Superchuffer, you should track down and read Bill Ramsey's essay on chipping.

that's awl. END.


superchuffer


Sep 5, 2011, 7:57 AM
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Re: [camhead] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Superchuffer, you should track down and read Bill Ramsey's essay on chipping.

read it... made me cry


camhead


Sep 5, 2011, 5:52 PM
Post #45 of 45 (1186 views)
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Re: [superchuffer] Utah--life elevated (their licence plates say so) [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Superchuffer, you should track down and read Bill Ramsey's essay on chipping.

read it... made me cry

yeah, sorry dude. Also, there is no such thing as Santa Claus.

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