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RunRocket


Dec 6, 2011, 1:19 AM
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New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas
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I have been talking to my partner(the owner of my building) and we are considering a personal training studio and bouldering gym. The space is small. 30'x30'x10' tall ceilings in the equipment area and the climbing wall room is 20'x30'x20'tall. The address is 2424 Broadway San Antonio Tx, 78215. There is no climbing gym in my town other than 2 colleges and a Lifetime fitness north of town. No bouldering gym what so ever. I have been to a climbing gym twice and rock climbing a handful of times.
So a real novice when it comes to climbing. But I am going to start a business in the space that is here and a climbing gym doesn't sound like a bad gig.
I am thinking of calling it Urban Ascent(since I am downtown) or The Cave indoor climbing gym.
If there are any owners of small gyms like this or someone who knows the workings of one please contact me to help me get going.
I have looked up a lot of images for bouldering gyms and I am trying to design it.
Please tell me your favorite features and wall angles and sizes that you like to climb.
Also how many climbing holds will I need for 2000 square feet of walls?


camhead


Dec 6, 2011, 3:36 AM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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RunRocket wrote:
I have been talking to my partner(the owner of my building) and we are considering a personal training studio and bouldering gym. The space is small. 30'x30'x10' tall ceilings in the equipment area and the climbing wall room is 20'x30'x20'tall. The address is 2424 Broadway San Antonio Tx, 78215. There is no climbing gym in my town other than 2 colleges and a Lifetime fitness north of town. No bouldering gym what so ever. I have been to a climbing gym twice and rock climbing a handful of times.
So a real novice when it comes to climbing. But I am going to start a business in the space that is here and a climbing gym doesn't sound like a bad gig.
I am thinking of calling it Urban Ascent(since I am downtown) or The Cave indoor climbing gym.
If there are any owners of small gyms like this or someone who knows the workings of one please contact me to help me get going.
I have looked up a lot of images for bouldering gyms and I am trying to design it.
Please tell me your favorite features and wall angles and sizes that you like to climb.
Also how many climbing holds will I need for 2000 square feet of walls?

I've never opened a bouldering gym, so take this with a grain of salt. However, I have never heard of a bouldering-only gym of the size you describe making a profit. All of the medium sized operations I know of are co-op models, and just barely pay the bills that way ("medium-sized" meaning larger than a home wall, but smaller than something like Dallas Rocks; go check it out if you haven't).

Logistically, I think it would be difficult to actually fit the numbers of boulderers in the gym that could make a profit. Not to mention that you would probably not be able to have the large group parties which tend to be the true money-makers for roped gyms.


shockabuku


Dec 6, 2011, 5:32 AM
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Let us know how it works out.

Some things you'll have to think of:
-Insurance.
-Padding and lighting around the features you build.
-Who will set quality problems to climb? Next to the actual type of terrain, I think this is the biggest factor effecting the quality of the facility. Quality routes require not just experienced climbers, but experienced route setters.
-Cleaning holds after they've been used for a while.
-Excess hold storage, ladder storage, tool storage.
-Staffing/entry control.
-Air system to handle chalk.
-Cooling.
-Climbing hold inventory turn-over.
-Will you have rental shoes? If so, where do you store them?


djlachelt


Dec 6, 2011, 8:25 AM
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RunRocket wrote:
... The space is small. 30'x30'x10' tall ceilings in the equipment area and the climbing wall room is 20'x30'x20'tall.
... I have been to a climbing gym twice and rock climbing a handful of times. So a real novice when it comes to climbing.
...
I have looked up a lot of images for bouldering gyms and I am trying to design it.
Please tell me your favorite features and wall angles and sizes that you like to climb.
Also how many climbing holds will I need for 2000 square feet of walls?

For your own sake please do a lot of research before you commit to this. This basic question has been asked before in this forum. If you look at similar threads on this forum you'll see my posts directing people to the Climbing Wall Association ( http://climbingwallindustry.org ). The CWA hosts a yearly industry trade show in May. I believe you would be foolish to go any further in this venture without attending this conf... especially given that you have limited experience in this sport.

There are not many bouldering-only gyms... but there are a few. Denver Bouldering Club http://denverboulderingclub.com/about/ is one that I think might be closest to your size. I think it is a CO-OP style business as opposed to something that is trying to be a good investment. Another is: SLO Op ( http://www.slo-opclimbing.org/ ).

Other bouldering only (and for-profit) gyms that I think of are considerably larger than what you could house in that space. The Spot, The Circuit are two that I think of.

You say you are trying to design it... but don't have any real experience with climbing. I strongly encourage you to get consulting from someone with experience designing and running a climbing gym. What looks cool and what actually climbs cool can be two different things. Moreover you want something that your route setters will be thrilled to set on for many years to come. There again, what looks cool at first glance can be tedious or very limiting to set on.

I recommend Chris Danielson ( cdanielson at gthi dot com ) as someone who could help you evaluate this and answer some of these sorts of design questions.

Your question about # of holds... That's something you'll certainly want to know at some point, but it is hardly the most important question to be asking at this stage.


RunRocket


Dec 6, 2011, 10:13 AM
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This is the beginning of the research.

Thanks for the climbing wall association link. That is very helpful.

I emailed the contact for the Denver bouldering club. Someone emailed me back and said they have nothing to do with a climbing gym. weird.

I design fitness equipment. Prototype mostly. I apply the same design principals for what ever I build.
1. Copy the best parts of everyone else's design.
2. Make it all work together.
3. Make it look cool.

I will definitely contact Chris Danielson. Also I won't be setting routes. That will have to be done by a pro. I will find the best route setter in san antonio. And pay him/her to set the routes. That is not something I would pretend to know anything about at this point.

One advantage I have is the building is paid for. I don't pay rent. The warehouse was just sitting there not doing anything until I had the idea to frame it out and do something with it. My partner/investor gave me his credit card and told me to start building something.

My partner really wants something that is fun for him. I am more focused on it making money. I prefer a liquor store. But he wants to do something fun.
One other consideration is, I live in the building. So I would rather live with a cool climbing gym than a liquor store.

Also I build everything myself. So it is the cost of materials only, which helps out on the cost.

Thanks for your constructive criticism and warnings. I am very concerned with researching the profitability of this idea.

It may end up that I build a liquor store in the 30x30 area that fronts the road and build a bouldering wall in the 20x30 area and have the entrance through the rear of the building. That way the liquor store makes money and the climbing gym will be something cool that may make a little extra money.

djlachelt-I see you are a SW engineer. I am a mechanical engineer. Though I have never held a job for it outside my own company. I quit school my senior year, took my senior project and started a business with it. That is maxrepbenchcrafting.com and now run-rocket.com
I only set up businesses that I can step away from after I set them up. A climbing gym seems to be that type of business.
shockabuku-that is interesting that you mentioned the AC being able to handle the chalk. Do gyms usually have a special filter to remove chalk from the air?


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Dec 6, 2011, 10:21 AM)


shockabuku


Dec 6, 2011, 11:41 AM
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I can't speak for all gyms, but some obviously do, others may and it's not obvious. There is a definite increase in load of airborne particles due to chalk use.


SylviaSmile


Dec 6, 2011, 12:25 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
I can't speak for all gyms, but some obviously do, others may and it's not obvious. There is a definite increase in load of airborne particles due to chalk use.

The gym I go to handles this problem by banning loose chalk in favor of chalk balls. I don't know if this is common practice, or only a partial solution, because obviously there's still chalk around everywhere.


acorneau


Dec 7, 2011, 7:37 AM
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RunRocket,

A few more resources for you...

To get connected with the Texas climbing community, including the folks in San Antonio, get reading and participating here: http://erockonline.com/forum/upload/index.php

To get some information about building walls, running a gym, routesetting, etc., read everything and ask those specific questions here:
http://www.routesetter.com/forum/

I'm a part-time route setter at Texas Rock Gym in Houston and would be happy to give you my two cents on basic wall design/layout and setting questions.

Good luck.


djlachelt


Dec 7, 2011, 9:44 AM
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SylviaSmile wrote:
...
The gym I go to handles this problem by banning loose chalk in favor of chalk balls. I don't know if this is common practice, or only a partial solution, because obviously there's still chalk around everywhere.

For a "bouldering" gym in San Antonio (hot & humid most of the year) this would be almost a deal breaker. Boulderers pretty much exclusively use a chalk-pot


SylviaSmile


Dec 7, 2011, 1:24 PM
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Re: [djlachelt] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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djlachelt wrote:
SylviaSmile wrote:
...
The gym I go to handles this problem by banning loose chalk in favor of chalk balls. I don't know if this is common practice, or only a partial solution, because obviously there's still chalk around everywhere.

For a "bouldering" gym in San Antonio (hot & humid most of the year) this would be almost a deal breaker. Boulderers pretty much exclusively use a chalk-pot

The boulderers here somehow survive--though I agree with you, it is significantly warmer in Texas, if the cooling system could keep the temperature at a colder level, less chalk could be required (granted, that would also cost more in electricity, so maybe a cost-benefit analysis would be good). If it's the only bouldering gym around and the problems are good, people will come even if they can only bring chalk balls, I'd guess.


RunRocket


Dec 7, 2011, 2:47 PM
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acorneau-thanks for the contacts and I will definitely be contacting you when it comes time for course setting. I would like your input as well on the wall it's self. Is your avatar picture at Enchanted Rock? My wife and I like to take a fall trip there to let our dogs run around. I will do a little bouldering while I am there. Hopefully we can get up there in the next two weeks. Last time we went she just got her boobs done and was scared they would pop if she climbed at all. Now I think she would be OK.

We would definitely AC the place I could build a filter to remove chalk dust and get better filters for the AC system I will install. Maybe i will invent a new system that pulls air through the wall near each hold and that is the intake for the filter system. Just kidding about that, but I will figure something out.
Today I met we met with a personal trainer to discuss the money side of a personal training studio. It looks like the liquor store is out.(yeah) I am now getting prices for flooring and equipment and we are thinking through what parts of this building will be what. I think the total over all square footage here is like 6000 including upstairs and down. About 2000 to 3000 usable for a training facility.
So what this means for the rock climbing wall; it will start out in a 20'x10'x20'tall area. So it will have a 20'wall and a 10' wall on each side of that. It may go as far as 16' on the far wall in the picture, since that column in the middle supports the roof. the other 20' side will be left open to the room. The area will be the area in the picture. If climbing is wildly popular then the wall will grow. If not then it will remain in that area.
I am thinking about replicating a wall I saw on youtube of an X games bouldering competition. I just got a pack of 60 holds in the mail today. I may work on the wall tonight so I can start screwing around on it.


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Dec 7, 2011, 2:51 PM)


acorneau


Dec 7, 2011, 3:50 PM
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RunRocket wrote:
acorneau-thanks for the contacts and I will definitely be contacting you when it comes time for course setting. I would like your input as well on the wall it's self. Is your avatar picture at Enchanted Rock?

Yup, after topping out somewhere on the backside.


In reply to:
We would definitely AC the place I could build a filter to remove chalk dust and get better filters for the AC system I will install.


I would highly recommend incorporating large fans in your designs. Boulderers are a sweaty bunch, so keeping the air circulating as much as possible will be key to keeping your electric bill under $1k a month.


In reply to:
So what this means for the rock climbing wall; it will start out in a 20'x10'x20'tall area. So it will have a 20'wall and a 10' wall on each side of that.

Honestly, that's not a lot of wall space for a bouldering-only gym. Try to double that amount if possible, or at least add another 10' or so.

Carry on!


RunRocket


Dec 7, 2011, 5:33 PM
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It's not going to be a bouldering gym. It will be a personal training gym with a bouldering wall. I'm pretty sure we can make money with the personal training, not so sure about the climbing wall. First rule of business is do what you know. I know a lot of personal trainers, they have been buying my equipment for years. I don't know a single climber. Personal training clients are older and richer, and we'd get a cut of that. Boulder climbers are young are poor. I fall more in the second category so having a wall is more to satisfy my interest than to make money.


RunRocket


Dec 7, 2011, 9:24 PM
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I have a section of the wall tacked in place. This section starts 3' off the ground. It is a 10' by 8'wide section at 60degrees. The top of the wall is about 12' off the ground. Do I want 3' of vertical at the bottom? What angle would be best to take the wall up to the 20' ceiling? I could go straight up, angle back about 15degrees or come off of that with a 30 degree wall. What do you think would be good here and why?
Also you can see the roof section to the left of the 60degree wall. It will be 7'6" from the wall toward the 60 and 10' the other way and it is totally flat. That roof is only 7' off the ground. Is that tall enough underneath or would I be better off putting a 30 degree wall under there to meet the 60?


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Dec 7, 2011, 9:29 PM)
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shockabuku


Dec 8, 2011, 4:28 AM
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RunRocket wrote:
Last time we went she just got her boobs done and was scared they would pop if she climbed at all. Now I think she would be OK.

I don't believe you. I think before and after pictures are called for.


RunRocket


Dec 8, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Google 'Jeannette Pair'
She has a model mayhem account. Boobs a plenty
Under images on the first page of google image searches there is a pic of her and my dog at enchanted rock.


RunRocket


Dec 8, 2011, 5:05 PM
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No one wants to help design this thing?


acorneau


Dec 9, 2011, 6:39 PM
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RunRocket wrote:
No one wants to help design this thing?


Again, you'll get lots of help and ideas at the Route Setter forum.


jae8908


Dec 9, 2011, 6:58 PM
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I think a little more overhangy would be better. more like 45 degree. i think 3 feet at the bottom is good. a mixture of angles from 30-60 would be sweet too but a lot of work


RunRocket


Dec 9, 2011, 11:05 PM
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I have been watching a lot of youtube videos of competitions and looking at images of all the walls I can on google. I will post int he route setters forum for help designing this.

I am going to have a lot of different angles. What I am thinking of doing is having 4' of the top of the 60 come out flat 2' and then straight up, and put a sic volume on the vertical top part. The other 4' I am thinking of coming out at a 30 for maybe 8 more feet. That will make the wall in that section come out to the edge of the climbing area.
What I am afraid of is having too many small panels on the wall and it not be a good climb. The walls that seem best to climb to me have large sections of one angle, attached to another section at a different angle and so on.
Another thing is this wall is going to be too high to boulder. When I am up on a ladder 20' or even 15' feet in the air, I would not want to drop from that height.
Anyway I will post over in the route setters forum and see what I get there. Thanks for all your responses. I will continue watching this thread as well.


Bats


Dec 9, 2011, 11:14 PM
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It would be nice for SA have a commercial gym, but with so many natural areas within a short distant. I think Allen is right about getting a bit bigger place. Kids birthdays seemed to make the budget for must gyms. Now there is a place here in Houston that is incorporating harness and rope as a new way for fitness, especially for your high-end clients.
http://www.gyrotonichouston.com/index.php
It seems their studio is small as well. I only knew about it from one of my yoga instructors was talking about it.


(This post was edited by Bats on Dec 12, 2011, 4:19 PM)


RunRocket


Dec 10, 2011, 12:17 AM
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The gyms money making function is having a place where personal trainers can train their clients. Next week we are actually building a 20' tall brick wall across the back of the gym. I am going to do more research into this wall dancing and see if any one here is SA will teach it at our facility.


acorneau


Dec 10, 2011, 6:23 AM
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RunRocket wrote:
I am going to have a lot of different angles. What I am thinking of doing is having 4' of the top of the 60 come out flat 2' and then straight up, and put a sic volume on the vertical top part.

... Another thing is this wall is going to be too high to boulder. When I am up on a ladder 20' or even 15' feet in the air, I would not want to drop from that height.

I can't speak about all the bouldering gyms/walls out there, but 20' seems like about as tall as you would ever want to go. Most that I have seen are 15' to 18' tall.

Also remember to be careful about how far out you go away from the base of the wall. Adding a 4' section of roof will bring out the top of the climbs quite a ways. If you want roof sections better to put them in lower/closer to the base and then go up.


(This post was edited by acorneau on Dec 10, 2011, 6:25 AM)


RunRocket


Dec 10, 2011, 1:30 PM
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I have one roof section that is 7' off the ground. It is totally horizontal, and 10'x7'6" big. I had 5 I beams sticking out of the wall at that hieght, so I framed them up to be the main roof area.
If I put any other roof areas, they will be small and just to make the climb more interesting.


RunRocket


Dec 11, 2011, 10:02 PM
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I think I am up to speed enough to build this wall. It's not real big anyway and it is not the crux of the business. Not so sure about route setting but I can worry about that later. I just kept reading things on the internet and people here helped out a lot.
I was looking up 'spotter for climbing' looking for the mechanical spotter. Yeah they are all over the internet under auto belay. I bet people that read that post were thinking I was some kind of idiot. That may be true but I have enough to move forward and complete the wall.


RunRocket


Dec 16, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Latest pic of the wall. From right to left the wall that is perpendicular to the camera will be pretty much straight up. Next to the on the back wall is a 12' 75degree transitioning into straight up, it's about 6'wide. Next to that in the center is 3' kick plate 60 degree wall up to 11', transitioning into a 2' flat section transitioning into a 45 degree 2' section transitioning into a 7' straight up to the ceiling section.
I don't know what ot do with that roof section that is 7' off the ground on the left side of the pic yet. I am not sure if that will be that interesting for people to climb.
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RunRocket


Jan 1, 2012, 11:22 PM
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I wish I can get a better pic but this is what I have now. I am building an arch that spans the room. The highest part of the arch that can be climbed is 18'. Can you lead climb that or must it be TR? I have a 6'x6' chimney type area that goes all the way up to 20'. We should be able to climb in 2 or 3 months. I am going to allow climbing before the gym actually opens. I have ordered 4 different brands of holds. The last I ordered is synrock. They haven't arrived yet. When I find the ones I like I will order like 500 holds.
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djlachelt


Jan 2, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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RunRocket wrote:
I am building an arch that spans the room. The highest part of the arch that can be climbed is 18'. Can you lead climb that or must it be TR?

Danger Will Robinson! I think you need to know the answer to this question before you build it.

If it is a truly an arch you won't be able to TR it. Where will you put the anchor? Think about what would happen to the climber who fell while on TR early in the climb. Think pendulum!

On the other hand, an arch 18' tall seems pretty short to do a lead climb. You'll have to have clips very close together to keep someone from decking. I personally wouldn't be excited to lead climb through an arch that is 18' tall. It's the first 12'-15' of leading that are most prone to decking... and where I'm the most nervous. With an arch of 18' a lot of the climbing is going to be in that "high-anxiety" region.

Also, if you are going to have lead climbing you'll need to build the structure such that you have something strong enough to hang the draws from... you can't just hang them from your t-nuts.

I think you'd be better off building your arch not so tall and just have it for bouldering.

As for allowing climbing before the gym opens... have you considered your liability issues? Be sure you have your liability waiver fully checked out with a TX lawyer before you let anyone climb... and have yourself fully insured.


You sound like a real can-do, full-steam-ahead kind of guy... and have probably been successful with that, but you said early on that you didn't have much experience climbing. If you are just building a bouldering wall you probably can't get into too much trouble, but if you plan to allow TR and/or lead climbing you'd do well to have someone with some real experience in climbing wall design to help you out.

Finally, I don't know TX law, but I'm confident you'll need an engineer to sign-off on your structural design before you can get your insurance and before you can open for business. You'd hate to build it and then have a structural engineer tell you that they can't sign-off on it.


RunRocket


Jan 2, 2012, 4:31 PM
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Re: [djlachelt] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Thanks for the reply. I may just end up having top rope anchors at 5 points in the room and not have holds through the arch if it is an issue that it can't be lead climbed. I have never lead climbed so I am not sure how this will turn out. I have been watching all the climbing videos I can and trying to model the features of the wall after those I see and like. I saw an arch that was about 20' at the top that was being lead climbed. I watched a few people fall from that one and they seemed to still be pretty far from the ground as they hung there. But 5' at that height is a big difference.
This wall encompasses about half of the room. If I expand it I will tear the roof out of the other section of the room and go up to 45' or 50'. That would be an all steel structure.
I bought a 30' sailboat and restored it, rebuilt the diesel and learned to sail it all from a sail boat forum. Sailboat people are a bunch of old guys that are super helpful. They mailed me parts for free and I would regularly talk on the phone with them. But working on boats is 90% of owning a boat so everyone is doing it. Here, most people just go climb things and places and most are not building walls from scratch. Building walls is a small part of this forum where working on boats is 75% of that forum.
Anyway I ended up trial and erroring a lot of this wall and figuring out things on my own.
So how tall would you recommend an arch that is only for bouldering? I saw one one roof area that had an elevated padded floor that went with the contour of the roof section. That looked pretty safe.
Getting sued is part of owning a business in America. I really want to make this safe, or as safe as a wall can be. I am wiling to risk letting a select few climb this before I open the gym. I will get a waiver even for those people.
I was wondering what the lead rope anchors were attached to behind the wall. It didn't seem enough to me just to have them on T-nuts.
You are definitely right about the pendulum trying to TR this arch. I think it would be better to have a TR anchor near each wall of the arch on the ceiling.
I will make sure my TR anchors are solid. I would love to see someone else's TR set up if anyone has that available. I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.
I am sure that is probably already done on short walls like this.
Edit. On youtube there is a video called "bert on the arch". He is toproping a 20' arch but has the rope lead through one other lead closer to the vertical section of the wall. I guess we'll only be TRing.


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Jan 2, 2012, 5:56 PM)


djlachelt


Jan 4, 2012, 10:30 AM
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I guess it depends on how wide your arch is to determine how safe a TR will be. I was picturing something rather wide. I see in the vids that they have TR from the center of the arch and it looks OK. I think the key is to make the beginning part of the arch have near vertical angles to get the climber off the ground quickly... as it looks like you have done in your pictures.

And I see in that vid that they do have lead climbing there. Clearly they make it work. I'm sure you can make it work also. I'm just trying to add a word of caution before you get too far along.

As for your lead draws... ideally you want them attached to your structure behind the wall (as opposed to the wall sheath). I have heard of people attaching them to a steel plate behind the wall so as to spread the load out on the plywood.

As for TR anchors, the norm in many gyms now days is to have a steel pipe, 4" in diameter. The rope wraps around the bar 1.5 times (rather than just being looped over the top). This adds friction to make for an easier/safer catch. It also reduces wear on the ropes. Of course, that's not like what someone would encounter outside... the anchors in that video are more like what you'd use outside. If you are not planning to have newbies then you might not care about the easier catch... so you'd just want to consider whether you care about the rope wear.

You are asking to see someone else's TR set-up... surely you can visit another gym not too far away and see how it is done. I see that a couple of colleges in San Antonio have walls that you could probably look at.

In reply to:
I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.

Huh?


RunRocket


Jan 4, 2012, 2:14 PM
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Re: [djlachelt] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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The arch on the floor is only 16'.

I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.
---That is describing what you saw in the video. I wrote that before I went back and confirmed that that is what they were doing in the video. I was calling a quick draw a lead point. I forgot what they were called.
There are no climbing gyms that I can walk into. At the colleges you have to be a student to get any where near them. The two public walls are at Lifetime fitness gyms. Again they wouldn't let me in there behind their walls. I can make something that would work it is usually easier to copy what someone else has already done though. There is a lot on youtube but not alot of behind the wall stuff.

It is very likely that most of the people climbing here will have very little if no experience climbing.


djlachelt


Jan 5, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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RunRocket wrote:
The arch on the floor is only 16'.

I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.
---That is describing what you saw in the video.

Well, what you describe doesn't really make sense. Most people wouldn't be interested in climbing back down the other side... and they certainly wouldn't start clipping into the draws as they went down... they are still on top rope.

In the video all I saw was someone on TR climbing up to the top of the arch. They climbed above the TR anchors... which BTW is probably something you would want newbies to avoid anyway... at least if a newbie is belaying.

BTW, the word is "traverse". It means to climb side-ways or horizontally along a wall rather than vertically.

As for looking at the walls at the college... I bet if you just went to the front desk and asked nicely to just have a look at their climbing wall they'd let you. I've done it. If they really press you, tell them you are thinking of enrolling and want to see the facilities.

And at the Lifetime Fitness you could just ask for a tour of the place and look at their TR set up. You don't need to see behind the wall because the TR anchor will have to be visible on the front of the wall. They'd probably even let you see behind the walls. It is likely all welded steel.


RunRocket


Jan 6, 2012, 12:02 AM
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Re: [djlachelt] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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I am going to have 5 TR anchors. I did see how it looks on the front of the wall. It doesn't really matter what I do ont he back side so long as it's strong enough. I just didn't want something weird that no one knew what it was and I would have to explain. Eventually I will have employees or climbers that will be setting routes or just using the wall and they want to see familiar standard things.
Yeah that guy int he video was using a TR and one quickdraw. I won't have anything set up like that. Just TR anchors at the top of each side of the arch and 3 along the back wall. It is a little cramped but 4 climbers could use it at once if the spotters were out of the climbing fall area. I'd like to have 5 spotting anchor points on the floor out of the climbing area. I promise to get a lot of pics on photobucket so I can post them in the thread here. I have a trade show for Runrocket over the next two days here in town so I will be busy with that. I do have about half the arch done. I'll start on the other side after the show is over.


Husker


Mar 1, 2012, 6:30 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Hey bro, I live in NC right now and am moving back to.SA, I went to a climbing gym last night called The climbing place in fayetteville, nc. I would contact them abut some of their stuff.this place was pretty legit. majority of it was bouldering, and hundreds of holds. I would be proud to be one of your first customers. So please keep me posted bc I am officially hooked and that would be awesome to have you there!
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RunRocket


Mar 2, 2012, 1:45 PM
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I am focusing on opening up the front of my gym right now. I just put all the front windows in and am working on the door. The climbing wall area is next after I finish the front room, which should be a matter of weeks now.
It will be 24 hour access. When ever you get here message me on here to get my number or stop by. It's on the corner of Army and Broadway across from Brackenridge park. Even if I haven't got it opened yet you can hang out and climb and help me set up routes if you want.


Husker


Mar 2, 2012, 3:31 PM
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I'm definitely a beginner and don't have a lot of experience. I've been lead climbing at enchanted rock a couple times with a guide and was hooked. Been to a couple gyms but only a handful of times, so I wish I could be of more helpful in that area. But yeah man I will definitely come check it out the moment I'm back. San Antonio isn't the most "active" city like austin, so you might wanna hold off on the 24 hour idea at first haha
Oh and I'll see if I can sneak a few pictures of this gym here too
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RunRocket


Mar 3, 2012, 11:30 AM
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The gyms primary use is classes like yoga,TRX and crossfit. I just love to climb so I am building a wall as a bonus. The 24 hour feature is for personal training but members who just want to climb will also be able to access it whenever they want. The back of the building is kind of a club house. My friends hang out play games and build stuff in the shop area/work on their jeeps. We had a small 20'X40" gym for our use but all that equipment will get moved into the public gym as soon as it's done.


RunRocket


Mar 8, 2012, 10:32 PM
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I have gotten far enough to start setting routes and climbing. Anyone who wants to climb this thing message me for my number. The address is 2424 broadway san antonio tx 78215. I have some cushions down for bouldering, also I have gear for top roping. After 5pm friday and all day saturday I am open.


Traches


Mar 9, 2012, 10:22 AM
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I'll be in san antonio sometime in the upcoming months, I'll try and look you up!


Husker


Mar 18, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Alright I made that god awful drive back to Texas so i will be up at your place this week.. lemme know a good time to head up and check it out. I'll be by in between the job searches and application pick ups haha.


RunRocket


Mar 18, 2012, 11:30 AM
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I am here working on this place everyday. I have an apartment in the back of the building above my office. So I am literally here all the time. I work, live and play in the same place. The trend around here is businesses on the ground floor and apartments for 3 or 4 floors above.


RunRocket


Mar 18, 2012, 11:37 AM
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I'm starting to buy holds. I am leaning toward the synrock holds. I did crack one already with an impact gun, lesson learned, but I like the feel of real rock that they have. Any cons about these for a public gym?


cintune


Mar 20, 2012, 6:29 PM
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Just watch out with the over-tightening and potential breakage, otherwise synrock is all around way better than resin. Hey, my son is stationed at Fort Sam Houston, any chance you have a military discount?


RunRocket


Mar 20, 2012, 10:56 PM
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Sure, military discounts apply! I guess, I haven't really came up with pricing for the wall or the gym or the trainers. But I am sure we can do something for service men an women.
My gym is actually on Army blvd, a few hundred yards from the base. If you think of it, ask your son if he has ever used the self spotting weight bench in the Jimmy Brought gym. I invented that and built one for the base. They bought it from me a few years ago. I hope it is still there. www.maxrepbenchcrafting.com is the site for it. I don't have a manufacturer and don't sell them any more, but I will have them in my gym. Of all my inventions, I think that is the best one.


cintune


Mar 21, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Cool, thanks. I'll forward this on to him, he'll be there for a few more months. Good luck with the gym, there should be a good clientele once word gets out since there seems to be very little to climb in those parts.


(This post was edited by cintune on Mar 21, 2012, 11:46 AM)


RunRocket


Apr 14, 2012, 11:31 PM
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I am a few weeks from opening. It will be a "soft" opening. I'll just give you a key fob that you use to open the door and you will have 24 hour access to the whole gym. The only rules will be 1. no eye gouging and 2. no shots to the groin.
Probably won't have AC right away but I have big fans. AC is on it's way.
I am looking for a Wing Chun instructor so if some one knows somebody, let them know I have space for a dojo. I would love to learn Kung Fu, then those kids will stop picking on me. Seriously though one of the classes offered in my gym will be wing chun. This is going to be a pretty cool place to hang out.


inside


May 25, 2012, 12:36 AM
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Holy balls I live just up broadway a way. What's your progress like now? I'll definitely swing by and have a look.


RunRocket


May 25, 2012, 8:50 AM
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Call when you get here. 210-845-9855
I have the rubber floor down for the gym and I have decided to do 10" pad all over the climbing area. So no need for crash pads. I have enough holds to get us started. Two weeks from now I will start giving out the access cards. When I open, climbing will be free for a couple of weeks at least. I think it will be about $30 a month after that for access to all equipment and climbing.


Oldclimber68


Jun 3, 2012, 10:29 AM
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I have not climbed in probably 10 years, but it was the best shape that I had ever been in. I have recently gotten back into bouldering to get back into shape. I know my way around construction and framing, and have all the tools needed. I was really excited to see that someone was finally going to open a Gym other than Lifetime. I would really like to know more about the gym, and when it might be opening, so any information you might be able to forward me would be fantastic. If you need any help; I would be more than willing to provide my services, and who knows maybe share a couple of really nice local bouldering areas very close to you. You can email me at charlesward1968@yahoo.com


RunRocket


Jun 3, 2012, 1:49 PM
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It was good talking to you today. I look forward to visiting some of the local bouldering spots with you. I have met some new friends through this forum that would love to go also. I first posted this 5 months ago. The scope of the project has crept a little but for sure now we are within a month of opening for climbing.


inside


Jun 3, 2012, 10:57 PM
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Scott, thanks for letting me see the gym-in-progress the other day.

Have you been out to the UTSA climbing gym at all? If you want to go, I can bring along guests for just $5.


RunRocket


Jun 4, 2012, 8:19 AM
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The last year I was at UTSA they installed that climbing gym. I went a handful of times. I would love to go again. Send me your number.


mbarbosa430


Jun 10, 2012, 5:28 PM
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I am active army and moving to Fort Sam Houston in the near future. I am really glad to know that there will be a place to climb in SA and interested in progress. I will definitely become a member. Best of luck.

-Mike


RunRocket


Jun 10, 2012, 10:11 PM
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My shop is on the corner of Broadway and Army blvd. A half a click up the road is where Ft.Sam starts. It is likely you will be able to ride a bike here after work. I can't wait to make the announcement of being open. I am learning there are a few cool places to do some actual climbing here in SA. I went to Cub cave today, saw some bad ass climbing when we got there. A 5.13. The route is called theiving texas scum. It's in the mouth of a cave 15 degrees cooler than the surface temp. You'll find the heat here is often a limiting factor. I'll definitely be back to climb that when I get my hands in shape for climbing.
The guy I was with today looked up the route on youtube and the guy in the first video(Rupesh) was the guy that was climbing when we got there! What are the odds.


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Jun 10, 2012, 10:19 PM)


SylviaSmile


Jun 14, 2012, 3:05 PM
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RunRocket wrote:
My shop is on the corner of Broadway and Army blvd. A half a click up the road is where Ft.Sam starts. It is likely you will be able to ride a bike here after work. I can't wait to make the announcement of being open. I am learning there are a few cool places to do some actual climbing here in SA. I went to Cub cave today, saw some bad ass climbing when we got there. A 5.13. The route is called theiving texas scum. It's in the mouth of a cave 15 degrees cooler than the surface temp. You'll find the heat here is often a limiting factor. I'll definitely be back to climb that when I get my hands in shape for climbing.
The guy I was with today looked up the route on youtube and the guy in the first video(Rupesh) was the guy that was climbing when we got there! What are the odds.

It's too bad you're not open yet, I'm going to be in SA in a couple weeks and it would be fun to visit the long-awaited gym!


RunRocket


Jun 14, 2012, 7:41 PM
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Call when you get here. You can visit it.


RunRocket


Jun 22, 2012, 5:56 PM
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I have a top rope anchor up and my first piece of the padding for the floor. We will be climbing in the evenings if any one wants to try out the routes that are here now or set their own routes. Not finished with the wall, but there are parts that can be climbed. I have 5 or so people a week stop by to check it out. If you want to check it out bring your shoes, you know you're going to want to climb it when you see it!
Here's the instructions; the sliding window next to the front door will be unlocked until about midnight. Slide it open and there is an access card on the window sill. Hold it up to the reader out side, you will hear a beep. Enter. PUT THE CARD BACK on the window sill. You also have to card out to get out.


Traches


Jun 22, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Glad to hear there's progress. I'll be spending a few months in san antonio starting the end of july-- I'd like to stay in some kind of climbing shape while I'm there so I'll for sure look you up!


RunRocket


Jun 25, 2012, 9:22 AM
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Re: [Traches] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Here are a couple of pics of the climbing wall. There is a really cool cave area that starts under the stairs goes into the cave and out into the room. Every one setting routes gravitates to that area, understandably. If it uploads, there is a pic of a dyno route that takes a jump about 6' across to a double handed hold. I tried it with one hand and ended up swinging upside down in my harness. We climbed all day for the past three days. I have the other half of the room to do something with. I am going to wait until we get more people and then take a vote on what features people want.
Attachments: small res wall 2.jpg (97.2 KB)
  small res wall.jpg (95.6 KB)


ClubberofSeals


Jun 29, 2012, 11:42 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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THIS IS AWESOME! I currently go to lifetime and am crying over paying the absurd amount they ask for just to climb! BUT I LOVE IT! Can i stop by sometime? I didnt get the whole sliding window key card thing, do i just go any time and climb?


RunRocket


Jun 30, 2012, 8:53 AM
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Re: [ClubberofSeals] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Yes you can come anytime and climb. It's free now but in a week or two I am going to have to start taking fees. Everyone will get an access card and can let themselves in whenever they want. A few people from Lifetime have stopped by to check it out. Their biggest complaint other than the price is the limited hours. This feels more like a coop gym because everyone is helping out to get it finished a few guys have brought in A LOT of cool holds.


SylviaSmile


Jul 3, 2012, 8:27 AM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Hey sorry I wasn't able to make it last week! Last minute things with my move to Colorado got in the way--next time I'm in SA, though, I'm definitely hitting you up! Smile


RunRocket


Jul 3, 2012, 1:03 PM
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Re: [SylviaSmile] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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No problem. The gym is rockin and rolling now. Last night we had some UTSA and Lifetime people climbing and setting more routes. About 20 people came climbing yesterday. Still not finished with the wall completely but the parts that are done are really cool. Climbers are setting some very interesting problems.


rclimb88


Jul 3, 2012, 2:30 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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What's your single use fee? Or the equivalent of a monthly membership?

And should I just swing by or whats the best way to let you know I'm coming? I started working across town and your place is pretty close to where I am.


RunRocket


Jul 3, 2012, 3:01 PM
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Re: [rclimb88] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Single use fee is $10. Monthly fee $30. Right now it's free. Just stop by and climb. Call me at 210-845-9855 or when you get here slide the window next to the door open, use the access card to let yourself in.
You have to use the card on the inside to let yourself out also.
I am a week away from being able to provide everyone with an access card that has a membership.


RunRocket


Jul 9, 2012, 1:08 AM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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I have the security/surveillance system fully functional. I can now provide everyone with access cards. We handed out like 15 tonight to everyone that was climbing tonight. So call me from now on to get in if you don't have a card yet. A lot of guys brought holds so it's time to tighten up security. The San Antonio climbers are the coolest group of people I literally have ever met. Everyone helped screw in thousands of T-nuts and whatever else was needed to get this up and running. Sorry about the screw through your hand today Preston (He taped it up and still climbed afterwards) THANKS TO THIS FORUM! Many people that found this post have already showed up to climb. There are a bunch of guys setting routes. We just got the top rope up on the easy side so any one at any level can have fun now. And fun is what this is all about.
This is an 18 and up gym. The Lifetimes north of town allow kids. If you want your kids to climb please go there. This is an adult setting, hanging around drinking after climbing kind of scene.


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Jul 9, 2012, 1:15 AM)


synrock


Jul 10, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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care for a box of synrock samples?


RunRocket


Jul 10, 2012, 12:02 PM
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Re: [synrock] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Sure. I would really like to check out your cracks!(intended humor) I wanted to order one of those anyway to see if it's something to take all the way to the ceiling.
Also is you can send me a pdf of your logo, one of the artists that climb will paint it on the wall somewhere.


synrock


Jul 10, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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are you talking out the inset cracks or bolt on the surface crack.


RunRocket


Jul 10, 2012, 3:58 PM
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Re: [synrock] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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I want a crack that will be 10' to 15' long. The bolt on cracks (I think) are small holds that are a few inches long. I want a crack to be as continuous as possible. So I will buy 15 of those inset cracks and have them snake up the wall. I see you have different width cracks as well.
The climbers want a crack, but I need to ask more specific questions about what the crack should entail. (especially about what combinations of the different width cracks they want) I am pretty sure the insets will be best for what we have in mind.


emmmy


Aug 6, 2012, 3:42 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Helllo! I've been interested in picking up rock climbing, but have been unable to do so because of the lack of climbing gyms in
In reply to:
SA, have you opened your gym yet? It sounds fantastic


RunRocket


Aug 7, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Re: [emmmy] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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It's been amazing. Really fun too. Last night we finally got the lead hardware through the arch/ceiling. So we set the first roof lead route last night. We were climbing it till 3 am.
I still think that bouldering will be 95% of the climbing here. But I know the climbers that are capable will be leading on the roof.
I think there are about 35 or 40 members so far. One or two a day sign up.
To summarize for those that googled and then skipped to the end;
24 hour access, $30 a month. 18 and up. Full
free-weight room, 2424 broadway san antonio 78215 behind and attached to the Midas shop. I don't have a website, advertising or a sign yet so bring your shoes, call to let me know you are coming 210-845-9855 Scott


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Aug 7, 2012, 10:29 AM)


aaronraby


Jan 8, 2013, 9:47 AM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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To anyone who hasn't been to The District yet and comes across this post. Our facebook and website are both up now.

www.facebook.com/thedistrictsa

www.thedistrictsa.com

Come join classes in Acro yoga, Hot mix yoga, boot camp/functional fitness, and climbing, or just sign up and climb 24/7.

On another note: Walls are now painted and textured. Holds are washed, and we are setting for SENDSVILLE 2013 over the 4 days. Come out and compete on the 12th!!


Prinz


Apr 3, 2013, 3:19 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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If you are looking for a great deal on climbing holds, we offer 35% off for bulk gym orders!

www.prinzclimbingholds.com

Our blend of polyurethane is the highest quality in the industry and we guarantee our holds against breakage. Check out our thousands of shapes...


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Indoor Gyms

 


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