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New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas
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RunRocket


Dec 16, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Latest pic of the wall. From right to left the wall that is perpendicular to the camera will be pretty much straight up. Next to the on the back wall is a 12' 75degree transitioning into straight up, it's about 6'wide. Next to that in the center is 3' kick plate 60 degree wall up to 11', transitioning into a 2' flat section transitioning into a 45 degree 2' section transitioning into a 7' straight up to the ceiling section.
I don't know what ot do with that roof section that is 7' off the ground on the left side of the pic yet. I am not sure if that will be that interesting for people to climb.
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RunRocket


Jan 1, 2012, 11:22 PM
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I wish I can get a better pic but this is what I have now. I am building an arch that spans the room. The highest part of the arch that can be climbed is 18'. Can you lead climb that or must it be TR? I have a 6'x6' chimney type area that goes all the way up to 20'. We should be able to climb in 2 or 3 months. I am going to allow climbing before the gym actually opens. I have ordered 4 different brands of holds. The last I ordered is synrock. They haven't arrived yet. When I find the ones I like I will order like 500 holds.
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djlachelt


Jan 2, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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RunRocket wrote:
I am building an arch that spans the room. The highest part of the arch that can be climbed is 18'. Can you lead climb that or must it be TR?

Danger Will Robinson! I think you need to know the answer to this question before you build it.

If it is a truly an arch you won't be able to TR it. Where will you put the anchor? Think about what would happen to the climber who fell while on TR early in the climb. Think pendulum!

On the other hand, an arch 18' tall seems pretty short to do a lead climb. You'll have to have clips very close together to keep someone from decking. I personally wouldn't be excited to lead climb through an arch that is 18' tall. It's the first 12'-15' of leading that are most prone to decking... and where I'm the most nervous. With an arch of 18' a lot of the climbing is going to be in that "high-anxiety" region.

Also, if you are going to have lead climbing you'll need to build the structure such that you have something strong enough to hang the draws from... you can't just hang them from your t-nuts.

I think you'd be better off building your arch not so tall and just have it for bouldering.

As for allowing climbing before the gym opens... have you considered your liability issues? Be sure you have your liability waiver fully checked out with a TX lawyer before you let anyone climb... and have yourself fully insured.


You sound like a real can-do, full-steam-ahead kind of guy... and have probably been successful with that, but you said early on that you didn't have much experience climbing. If you are just building a bouldering wall you probably can't get into too much trouble, but if you plan to allow TR and/or lead climbing you'd do well to have someone with some real experience in climbing wall design to help you out.

Finally, I don't know TX law, but I'm confident you'll need an engineer to sign-off on your structural design before you can get your insurance and before you can open for business. You'd hate to build it and then have a structural engineer tell you that they can't sign-off on it.


RunRocket


Jan 2, 2012, 4:31 PM
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Re: [djlachelt] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Thanks for the reply. I may just end up having top rope anchors at 5 points in the room and not have holds through the arch if it is an issue that it can't be lead climbed. I have never lead climbed so I am not sure how this will turn out. I have been watching all the climbing videos I can and trying to model the features of the wall after those I see and like. I saw an arch that was about 20' at the top that was being lead climbed. I watched a few people fall from that one and they seemed to still be pretty far from the ground as they hung there. But 5' at that height is a big difference.
This wall encompasses about half of the room. If I expand it I will tear the roof out of the other section of the room and go up to 45' or 50'. That would be an all steel structure.
I bought a 30' sailboat and restored it, rebuilt the diesel and learned to sail it all from a sail boat forum. Sailboat people are a bunch of old guys that are super helpful. They mailed me parts for free and I would regularly talk on the phone with them. But working on boats is 90% of owning a boat so everyone is doing it. Here, most people just go climb things and places and most are not building walls from scratch. Building walls is a small part of this forum where working on boats is 75% of that forum.
Anyway I ended up trial and erroring a lot of this wall and figuring out things on my own.
So how tall would you recommend an arch that is only for bouldering? I saw one one roof area that had an elevated padded floor that went with the contour of the roof section. That looked pretty safe.
Getting sued is part of owning a business in America. I really want to make this safe, or as safe as a wall can be. I am wiling to risk letting a select few climb this before I open the gym. I will get a waiver even for those people.
I was wondering what the lead rope anchors were attached to behind the wall. It didn't seem enough to me just to have them on T-nuts.
You are definitely right about the pendulum trying to TR this arch. I think it would be better to have a TR anchor near each wall of the arch on the ceiling.
I will make sure my TR anchors are solid. I would love to see someone else's TR set up if anyone has that available. I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.
I am sure that is probably already done on short walls like this.
Edit. On youtube there is a video called "bert on the arch". He is toproping a 20' arch but has the rope lead through one other lead closer to the vertical section of the wall. I guess we'll only be TRing.


(This post was edited by RunRocket on Jan 2, 2012, 5:56 PM)


djlachelt


Jan 4, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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I guess it depends on how wide your arch is to determine how safe a TR will be. I was picturing something rather wide. I see in the vids that they have TR from the center of the arch and it looks OK. I think the key is to make the beginning part of the arch have near vertical angles to get the climber off the ground quickly... as it looks like you have done in your pictures.

And I see in that vid that they do have lead climbing there. Clearly they make it work. I'm sure you can make it work also. I'm just trying to add a word of caution before you get too far along.

As for your lead draws... ideally you want them attached to your structure behind the wall (as opposed to the wall sheath). I have heard of people attaching them to a steel plate behind the wall so as to spread the load out on the plywood.

As for TR anchors, the norm in many gyms now days is to have a steel pipe, 4" in diameter. The rope wraps around the bar 1.5 times (rather than just being looped over the top). This adds friction to make for an easier/safer catch. It also reduces wear on the ropes. Of course, that's not like what someone would encounter outside... the anchors in that video are more like what you'd use outside. If you are not planning to have newbies then you might not care about the easier catch... so you'd just want to consider whether you care about the rope wear.

You are asking to see someone else's TR set-up... surely you can visit another gym not too far away and see how it is done. I see that a couple of colleges in San Antonio have walls that you could probably look at.

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I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.

Huh?


RunRocket


Jan 4, 2012, 2:14 PM
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Re: [djlachelt] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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The arch on the floor is only 16'.

I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.
---That is describing what you saw in the video. I wrote that before I went back and confirmed that that is what they were doing in the video. I was calling a quick draw a lead point. I forgot what they were called.
There are no climbing gyms that I can walk into. At the colleges you have to be a student to get any where near them. The two public walls are at Lifetime fitness gyms. Again they wouldn't let me in there behind their walls. I can make something that would work it is usually easier to copy what someone else has already done though. There is a lot on youtube but not alot of behind the wall stuff.

It is very likely that most of the people climbing here will have very little if no experience climbing.


djlachelt


Jan 5, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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RunRocket wrote:
The arch on the floor is only 16'.

I guess someone could TR then transverse and use lead point down the other side of the arch.
---That is describing what you saw in the video.

Well, what you describe doesn't really make sense. Most people wouldn't be interested in climbing back down the other side... and they certainly wouldn't start clipping into the draws as they went down... they are still on top rope.

In the video all I saw was someone on TR climbing up to the top of the arch. They climbed above the TR anchors... which BTW is probably something you would want newbies to avoid anyway... at least if a newbie is belaying.

BTW, the word is "traverse". It means to climb side-ways or horizontally along a wall rather than vertically.

As for looking at the walls at the college... I bet if you just went to the front desk and asked nicely to just have a look at their climbing wall they'd let you. I've done it. If they really press you, tell them you are thinking of enrolling and want to see the facilities.

And at the Lifetime Fitness you could just ask for a tour of the place and look at their TR set up. You don't need to see behind the wall because the TR anchor will have to be visible on the front of the wall. They'd probably even let you see behind the walls. It is likely all welded steel.


RunRocket


Jan 6, 2012, 12:02 AM
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I am going to have 5 TR anchors. I did see how it looks on the front of the wall. It doesn't really matter what I do ont he back side so long as it's strong enough. I just didn't want something weird that no one knew what it was and I would have to explain. Eventually I will have employees or climbers that will be setting routes or just using the wall and they want to see familiar standard things.
Yeah that guy int he video was using a TR and one quickdraw. I won't have anything set up like that. Just TR anchors at the top of each side of the arch and 3 along the back wall. It is a little cramped but 4 climbers could use it at once if the spotters were out of the climbing fall area. I'd like to have 5 spotting anchor points on the floor out of the climbing area. I promise to get a lot of pics on photobucket so I can post them in the thread here. I have a trade show for Runrocket over the next two days here in town so I will be busy with that. I do have about half the arch done. I'll start on the other side after the show is over.


Husker


Mar 1, 2012, 6:30 PM
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Hey bro, I live in NC right now and am moving back to.SA, I went to a climbing gym last night called The climbing place in fayetteville, nc. I would contact them abut some of their stuff.this place was pretty legit. majority of it was bouldering, and hundreds of holds. I would be proud to be one of your first customers. So please keep me posted bc I am officially hooked and that would be awesome to have you there!
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RunRocket


Mar 2, 2012, 1:45 PM
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I am focusing on opening up the front of my gym right now. I just put all the front windows in and am working on the door. The climbing wall area is next after I finish the front room, which should be a matter of weeks now.
It will be 24 hour access. When ever you get here message me on here to get my number or stop by. It's on the corner of Army and Broadway across from Brackenridge park. Even if I haven't got it opened yet you can hang out and climb and help me set up routes if you want.


Husker


Mar 2, 2012, 3:31 PM
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I'm definitely a beginner and don't have a lot of experience. I've been lead climbing at enchanted rock a couple times with a guide and was hooked. Been to a couple gyms but only a handful of times, so I wish I could be of more helpful in that area. But yeah man I will definitely come check it out the moment I'm back. San Antonio isn't the most "active" city like austin, so you might wanna hold off on the 24 hour idea at first haha
Oh and I'll see if I can sneak a few pictures of this gym here too
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RunRocket


Mar 3, 2012, 11:30 AM
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The gyms primary use is classes like yoga,TRX and crossfit. I just love to climb so I am building a wall as a bonus. The 24 hour feature is for personal training but members who just want to climb will also be able to access it whenever they want. The back of the building is kind of a club house. My friends hang out play games and build stuff in the shop area/work on their jeeps. We had a small 20'X40" gym for our use but all that equipment will get moved into the public gym as soon as it's done.


RunRocket


Mar 8, 2012, 10:32 PM
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I have gotten far enough to start setting routes and climbing. Anyone who wants to climb this thing message me for my number. The address is 2424 broadway san antonio tx 78215. I have some cushions down for bouldering, also I have gear for top roping. After 5pm friday and all day saturday I am open.


Traches


Mar 9, 2012, 10:22 AM
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I'll be in san antonio sometime in the upcoming months, I'll try and look you up!


Husker


Mar 18, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Alright I made that god awful drive back to Texas so i will be up at your place this week.. lemme know a good time to head up and check it out. I'll be by in between the job searches and application pick ups haha.


RunRocket


Mar 18, 2012, 11:30 AM
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I am here working on this place everyday. I have an apartment in the back of the building above my office. So I am literally here all the time. I work, live and play in the same place. The trend around here is businesses on the ground floor and apartments for 3 or 4 floors above.


RunRocket


Mar 18, 2012, 11:37 AM
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I'm starting to buy holds. I am leaning toward the synrock holds. I did crack one already with an impact gun, lesson learned, but I like the feel of real rock that they have. Any cons about these for a public gym?


cintune


Mar 20, 2012, 6:29 PM
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Re: [RunRocket] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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Just watch out with the over-tightening and potential breakage, otherwise synrock is all around way better than resin. Hey, my son is stationed at Fort Sam Houston, any chance you have a military discount?


RunRocket


Mar 20, 2012, 10:56 PM
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Sure, military discounts apply! I guess, I haven't really came up with pricing for the wall or the gym or the trainers. But I am sure we can do something for service men an women.
My gym is actually on Army blvd, a few hundred yards from the base. If you think of it, ask your son if he has ever used the self spotting weight bench in the Jimmy Brought gym. I invented that and built one for the base. They bought it from me a few years ago. I hope it is still there. www.maxrepbenchcrafting.com is the site for it. I don't have a manufacturer and don't sell them any more, but I will have them in my gym. Of all my inventions, I think that is the best one.


cintune


Mar 21, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Cool, thanks. I'll forward this on to him, he'll be there for a few more months. Good luck with the gym, there should be a good clientele once word gets out since there seems to be very little to climb in those parts.


(This post was edited by cintune on Mar 21, 2012, 11:46 AM)


RunRocket


Apr 14, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Re: [cintune] New Bouldering Gym San Antonio Texas [In reply to]
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I am a few weeks from opening. It will be a "soft" opening. I'll just give you a key fob that you use to open the door and you will have 24 hour access to the whole gym. The only rules will be 1. no eye gouging and 2. no shots to the groin.
Probably won't have AC right away but I have big fans. AC is on it's way.
I am looking for a Wing Chun instructor so if some one knows somebody, let them know I have space for a dojo. I would love to learn Kung Fu, then those kids will stop picking on me. Seriously though one of the classes offered in my gym will be wing chun. This is going to be a pretty cool place to hang out.


inside


May 25, 2012, 12:36 AM
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Holy balls I live just up broadway a way. What's your progress like now? I'll definitely swing by and have a look.


RunRocket


May 25, 2012, 8:50 AM
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Call when you get here. 210-845-9855
I have the rubber floor down for the gym and I have decided to do 10" pad all over the climbing area. So no need for crash pads. I have enough holds to get us started. Two weeks from now I will start giving out the access cards. When I open, climbing will be free for a couple of weeks at least. I think it will be about $30 a month after that for access to all equipment and climbing.


Oldclimber68


Jun 3, 2012, 10:29 AM
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I have not climbed in probably 10 years, but it was the best shape that I had ever been in. I have recently gotten back into bouldering to get back into shape. I know my way around construction and framing, and have all the tools needed. I was really excited to see that someone was finally going to open a Gym other than Lifetime. I would really like to know more about the gym, and when it might be opening, so any information you might be able to forward me would be fantastic. If you need any help; I would be more than willing to provide my services, and who knows maybe share a couple of really nice local bouldering areas very close to you. You can email me at charlesward1968@yahoo.com


RunRocket


Jun 3, 2012, 1:49 PM
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It was good talking to you today. I look forward to visiting some of the local bouldering spots with you. I have met some new friends through this forum that would love to go also. I first posted this 5 months ago. The scope of the project has crept a little but for sure now we are within a month of opening for climbing.

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