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scdance
Jan 14, 2012, 3:05 AM
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I know there is a whole thread dedicated to rock climbing and their inherent mistakes, but I was just looking for more specific mistakes we make when we climb in the gym and bouldering. I am new to this sport, I love it so much and just wanted to make sure that I wasn't making a fool of myself at the gym. Any tips and/or things that irk you when beginners are climbing?
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scdance
Jan 15, 2012, 7:33 PM
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That's not really what I'm looking for, that is really only talking about checking a gri-gri, and the problems that accompany gri-gri's. I want more of a personal view of beginners and the problems of, not belaying devices. Thanks though! I did learn a little bit from that post.
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shockabuku
Jan 16, 2012, 12:01 AM
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Not paying attention to where your route goes and putting someone else, who was there first, on another intersecting route in a bad position because of it.
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Limes
Jan 16, 2012, 12:35 AM
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Be aware of where others are climbing. It is a regular occurance in my gym that people who are new to climbing will walk, or climb under (or close to) others that are bouldering. Not a good idea. Stick with it. The more time you spend climbing, the more you will notice on your own what the correct etiquette is.
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curt
Jan 16, 2012, 2:10 AM
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scdance wrote: ...mistakes we make when we climb in the gym... That's redundant in and of itself. Curt
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scdance
Jan 16, 2012, 2:50 AM
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curt wrote: scdance wrote: ...mistakes we make when we climb in the gym... That's redundant in and of itself. Curt Thanks for the input, Curt! And thank you everyone else, I will be keeping watch of everythign that has been suggested.
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djlachelt
Jan 16, 2012, 5:49 AM
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Spraying unwanted beta irks most climbers. Ask first if you want to offer a suggestion.
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saint_john
Jan 16, 2012, 4:34 PM
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djlachelt wrote: Spraying unwanted beta irks most climbers. Ask first if you want to offer a suggestion. good advice.
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scdance
Jan 16, 2012, 6:40 PM
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After delving deeper into the climbing world and finding out what beta meant, that does seem like something that would piss some climbers off. Good call.
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Colinhoglund
Jan 16, 2012, 7:03 PM
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Climbing with tones of extra crap on your harness. Clean the jungus off before hitting the gym. (confession, I was that guy long ago) Don't do dynos for fun, or tendonitis will soon follow. (seen many new bolderers deal with this one) Mono pockets and sharp holds + beginners = pop goes the tendon. Don't push it too hard in the beginning. I've never hurt myself rock climbing; but myself and several partners have all damaged finger tendons on plastic. And lastly, keep your shirt on! Your not that impressive! (edit to impress the spelling police)
(This post was edited by Colinhoglund on Jan 18, 2012, 4:13 PM)
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scdance
Jan 17, 2012, 6:28 AM
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What about when people drink water while they climb? I mean I've heard quite a bit about how that's unacceptable or really bad for you while you climb? What's that all about?
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 17, 2012, 1:46 PM
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scdance wrote: What about when people drink water while they climb? I mean I've heard quite a bit about how that's unacceptable or really bad for you while you climb? What's that all about? I have never seen this in all my years of climbing, assuming you mean drinking while actually in the act of climbing. Here are a few n00b mistakes: Safety Not doubling-back their harness Not locking their belay biner Taking their hand of the brake strand Belayer not paying attention/not keeping up with their climber Not properly spotting If leading, allowing the rope to get behind their leg Threading your belay device backwards Annoying Being loud and obnoxious Having a conversation between climber and belayer Spewing unsolicited beta Trying to impress your SO with your amazing climbing knowledge, but getting everything wrong (i.e. Overheard in a gym: "As soon as you take a lead fall, you need to retire your rope." Goofy Bouldering with your harness on Climbing with unneeded gear on your harness (i.e. quickdraws, cordellette) Josh
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dagibbs
Jan 18, 2012, 6:04 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Trying to impress your SO with your amazing climbing knowledge, but getting everything wrong (i.e. Overheard in a gym: "As soon as you take a lead fall, you need to retire your rope." A guy at my local gym was claiming, "I took a 30' whipper on that (gym) route...". The gym is only 24' feet high.
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jmichael
Jan 18, 2012, 6:37 AM
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Colinhoglund wrote: . And lastly, keep your shirt on! Your not that impressive! I would actually list that first.
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bearbreeder
Jan 18, 2012, 7:44 AM
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the most important one ... not paying attention when yr belaying ... often chatting to a hawt gurl or being chatted to if yr hawt ....
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jt512
Jan 18, 2012, 7:46 AM
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Colinhoglund wrote: Don't do dynos for fun, or tendentious will soon follow. I don't think that word means what you think it means. Jay
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guangzhou
Jan 18, 2012, 9:11 AM
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jt512 wrote: Colinhoglund wrote: Don't do dynos for fun, or tendentious will soon follow. I don't think that word means what you think it means. Jay So true, nice catch.
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j_ung
Jan 18, 2012, 12:44 PM
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I suppose this goes for any climbing, but I think maybe you see it more in gyms than anyplace else... a lot of new climbers somehow get the notion that there's a code of etiquette to climbing other than common consideration and politeness. For example, "Lead climbers get route priority over top ropers." Arguments over violations of the "code" often ensue. We see them in threads on here all the time.
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Colinhoglund
Jan 18, 2012, 4:12 PM
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guangzhou wrote: jt512 wrote: Colinhoglund wrote: Don't do dynos for fun, or tendentious will soon follow. I don't think that word means what you think it means. Jay So true, nice catch. Once again I've been had by speeelll Cheeeeeek! Tendonitis, t-e-n-d-o-n-i-t-i-s tendonitis.
(This post was edited by Colinhoglund on Jan 18, 2012, 4:15 PM)
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rgbscan
Jan 18, 2012, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: Safety Not doubling-back their harness Not locking their belay biner Taking their hand of the brake strand Belayer not paying attention/not keeping up with their climber Not properly spotting If leading, allowing the rope to get behind their leg Threading your belay device backwards Annoying Being loud and obnoxious Having a conversation between climber and belayer Spewing unsolicited beta Trying to impress your SO with your amazing climbing knowledge, but getting everything wrong (i.e. Overheard in a gym: "As soon as you take a lead fall, you need to retire your rope." I'd add doing "laps" on routes to the annoying list. At least it annoys me. I tend to climb on plastic at the gym/fitness club. A lot of people there take the sets/reps mentality to the wall where they climb and down climb a route 3 times (I guess thats 3 reps on the wall?), move to another route - do the same thing - then move back to the original climb. Irritates me to no end while the rest of us have to wait in line for the limited amount of routes. The gym sort of condones this as a super great new exercise..... For safety, it still irks me when noobs do the pinch and slide belay method with their brake hand right up against the belay device. The merits of the method can be debated I guess but for me, having limited leverage along with your hand just waiting to be pulled into the device is not a good time.
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shellc0de
Jan 18, 2012, 6:43 PM
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Lol I remember walking into the gym with about 8 quickdraws not knowing they were already in the wall, but then it made sense, why would they ever take them off...
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gblauer
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Jan 18, 2012, 7:55 PM
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rgbscan wrote: I'd add doing "laps" on routes to the annoying list. At least it annoys me. I tend to climb on plastic at the gym/fitness club. A lot of people there take the sets/reps mentality to the wall where they climb and down climb a route 3 times (I guess thats 3 reps on the wall?), move to another route - do the same thing - then move back to the original climb. Irritates me to no end while the rest of us have to wait in line for the limited amount of routes. Ummm...I do laps all the time. I always do lead lap set of three. I lead a climb, pull the rope, lead again, pull the rope and do it one more time. No rests between pulls, just trying to get 75+ feet of climbing so that it better reflects fitness level needed for an outdoor climb. Once a week I tie up a top rope for 30-45 minutes while I ARC!
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gblauer
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Jan 18, 2012, 7:56 PM
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shellc0de wrote: Lol I remember walking into the gym with about 8 quickdraws not knowing they were already in the wall, but then it made sense, why would they ever take them off... Cliffhangers in Reading PA requires that you use your own draws. I made the mistake of leading a climb on someone else's draws. I thought they belonged to the gym. Who knew?
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rgbscan
Jan 18, 2012, 8:01 PM
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gblauer wrote: rgbscan wrote: I'd add doing "laps" on routes to the annoying list. At least it annoys me. I tend to climb on plastic at the gym/fitness club. A lot of people there take the sets/reps mentality to the wall where they climb and down climb a route 3 times (I guess thats 3 reps on the wall?), move to another route - do the same thing - then move back to the original climb. Irritates me to no end while the rest of us have to wait in line for the limited amount of routes. Ummm...I do laps all the time. I always do lead lap set of three. I lead a climb, pull the rope, lead again, pull the rope and do it one more time. No rests between pulls, just trying to get 75+ feet of climbing so that it better reflects fitness level needed for an outdoor climb. Once a week I tie up a top rope for 30-45 minutes while I ARC! It's situational I guess. I'd agree that downclimbing is good for building footwork and strength At the lifetime fitness in plymouth, mn there are only a handful of TR routes. I usually go down to VE in Saint Paul or Minneapolis to climb but on certain nights of the week I have to be in Plymouth for the night with no ability to leave. Lines form at each route. In the past you'd go you up, you'd come down and you'd go get in line for the next route. Everyone got to climb. The new thing is to downclimb - but not all the way and to start climbing back up. I get it that the walls are short. 25ft I think. But man does it back up the lines and deny some people the opportunity to climb. Thats what annoys me. Now if you were doing this on a slow day with no crowd, then sure - the actual act of doing laps isn't annoying, its just the lack of consideration for other climbers that bugs me.
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shockabuku
Jan 19, 2012, 1:44 PM
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gblauer wrote: shellc0de wrote: Lol I remember walking into the gym with about 8 quickdraws not knowing they were already in the wall, but then it made sense, why would they ever take them off... Cliffhangers in Reading PA requires that you use your own draws. I made the mistake of leading a climb on someone else's draws. I thought they belonged to the gym. Who knew? Climbed there a few times. That is, without doubt, the most ... unique, yeah, that's a good word, gym I've ever visited.
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johnwesely
Jan 19, 2012, 2:33 PM
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rgbscan wrote: gblauer wrote: rgbscan wrote: I'd add doing "laps" on routes to the annoying list. At least it annoys me. I tend to climb on plastic at the gym/fitness club. A lot of people there take the sets/reps mentality to the wall where they climb and down climb a route 3 times (I guess thats 3 reps on the wall?), move to another route - do the same thing - then move back to the original climb. Irritates me to no end while the rest of us have to wait in line for the limited amount of routes. Ummm...I do laps all the time. I always do lead lap set of three. I lead a climb, pull the rope, lead again, pull the rope and do it one more time. No rests between pulls, just trying to get 75+ feet of climbing so that it better reflects fitness level needed for an outdoor climb. Once a week I tie up a top rope for 30-45 minutes while I ARC! It's situational I guess. I'd agree that downclimbing is good for building footwork and strength At the lifetime fitness in plymouth, mn there are only a handful of TR routes. I usually go down to VE in Saint Paul or Minneapolis to climb but on certain nights of the week I have to be in Plymouth for the night with no ability to leave. Lines form at each route. In the past you'd go you up, you'd come down and you'd go get in line for the next route. Everyone got to climb. The new thing is to downclimb - but not all the way and to start climbing back up. I get it that the walls are short. 25ft I think. But man does it back up the lines and deny some people the opportunity to climb. Thats what annoys me. Now if you were doing this on a slow day with no crowd, then sure - the actual act of doing laps isn't annoying, its just the lack of consideration for other climbers that bugs me. People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't.
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SylviaSmile
Jan 19, 2012, 3:24 PM
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johnwesely wrote: rgbscan wrote: gblauer wrote: rgbscan wrote: I'd add doing "laps" on routes to the annoying list. At least it annoys me. I tend to climb on plastic at the gym/fitness club. A lot of people there take the sets/reps mentality to the wall where they climb and down climb a route 3 times (I guess thats 3 reps on the wall?), move to another route - do the same thing - then move back to the original climb. Irritates me to no end while the rest of us have to wait in line for the limited amount of routes. Ummm...I do laps all the time. I always do lead lap set of three. I lead a climb, pull the rope, lead again, pull the rope and do it one more time. No rests between pulls, just trying to get 75+ feet of climbing so that it better reflects fitness level needed for an outdoor climb. Once a week I tie up a top rope for 30-45 minutes while I ARC! It's situational I guess. I'd agree that downclimbing is good for building footwork and strength At the lifetime fitness in plymouth, mn there are only a handful of TR routes. I usually go down to VE in Saint Paul or Minneapolis to climb but on certain nights of the week I have to be in Plymouth for the night with no ability to leave. Lines form at each route. In the past you'd go you up, you'd come down and you'd go get in line for the next route. Everyone got to climb. The new thing is to downclimb - but not all the way and to start climbing back up. I get it that the walls are short. 25ft I think. But man does it back up the lines and deny some people the opportunity to climb. Thats what annoys me. Now if you were doing this on a slow day with no crowd, then sure - the actual act of doing laps isn't annoying, its just the lack of consideration for other climbers that bugs me. People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't. If you are that serious about training without breaks, build a home gym. For gyms that you pay for, everyone who pays should get an equal opportunity to use the equipment.
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lena_chita
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Jan 19, 2012, 3:34 PM
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SylviaSmile wrote: johnwesely wrote: rgbscan wrote: gblauer wrote: rgbscan wrote: I'd add doing "laps" on routes to the annoying list. At least it annoys me. I tend to climb on plastic at the gym/fitness club. A lot of people there take the sets/reps mentality to the wall where they climb and down climb a route 3 times (I guess thats 3 reps on the wall?), move to another route - do the same thing - then move back to the original climb. Irritates me to no end while the rest of us have to wait in line for the limited amount of routes. Ummm...I do laps all the time. I always do lead lap set of three. I lead a climb, pull the rope, lead again, pull the rope and do it one more time. No rests between pulls, just trying to get 75+ feet of climbing so that it better reflects fitness level needed for an outdoor climb. Once a week I tie up a top rope for 30-45 minutes while I ARC! It's situational I guess. I'd agree that downclimbing is good for building footwork and strength At the lifetime fitness in plymouth, mn there are only a handful of TR routes. I usually go down to VE in Saint Paul or Minneapolis to climb but on certain nights of the week I have to be in Plymouth for the night with no ability to leave. Lines form at each route. In the past you'd go you up, you'd come down and you'd go get in line for the next route. Everyone got to climb. The new thing is to downclimb - but not all the way and to start climbing back up. I get it that the walls are short. 25ft I think. But man does it back up the lines and deny some people the opportunity to climb. Thats what annoys me. Now if you were doing this on a slow day with no crowd, then sure - the actual act of doing laps isn't annoying, its just the lack of consideration for other climbers that bugs me. People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't. If you are that serious about training without breaks, build a home gym. For gyms that you pay for, everyone who pays should get an equal opportunity to use the equipment. So, you have an equal opportunity to do three laps in a row when it is your turn. If you choose not to, nobody denied you the opportunity... It's a bit of a ridiculous conversation, because most people I know are cognizant of their environment and considerate of other people, so they would not do 45 minutes of ARC laps on the only moderate route in a small gym at peak hour. But 3 climbs up and down on 25 foot walls? Come on, I know people who would take longer to tie in and put on their shoes than it would take someone doing laps to do 3 laps like that.
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donwanadi
Jan 19, 2012, 4:07 PM
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I doubt someone who has a route wired takes very long to do 3 laps at the gym. Who waits for specific climbs at a gym anyway?
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lena_chita
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Jan 19, 2012, 5:09 PM
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donwanadi wrote: I doubt someone who has a route wired takes very long to do 3 laps at the gym. This is exactly what I said, but you are replying to me as if you are arguing with me about this? Not sure if I read this correctly.
donwanadi wrote: Who waits for specific climbs at a gym anyway? Someone who wants to get on those specific climbs, obviously! Haven't you ever worked on a specific route in a gym?
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donwanadi
Jan 19, 2012, 5:29 PM
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I hit the closest reply button I saw. I did not mean to reply to you specifically. Of course, there are usually several climbs I'm working on. I just can't imagine standing around waiting for it. I'd just climb something else until it was free.
(This post was edited by donwanadi on Jan 19, 2012, 5:33 PM)
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Greggle
Jan 19, 2012, 6:16 PM
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donwanadi wrote: I just can't imagine standing around waiting for it. I'd just climb something else until it was free. You have that luxury. The "gym" where I climb is at my university. It is often packed with newberts who amble by on the way to their first—and only—visit to the facility and think, "Hey, gang, that looks neato! Let's try it!" Those doing laps add to that congestion. Fortunately, there is really only one person who does laps these days. Unfortunately, this person is a friend of mine and will easily bang out 200', climb–downclimb. What can ya' do?
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gosharks
Jan 19, 2012, 9:43 PM
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rgbscan wrote: I get it that the walls are short. 25ft I think. But man does it back up the lines and deny some people the opportunity to climb. Thats what annoys me. I've done gym boulder problems that are longer than 25ft. When the walls are that short, you need to be doing more than one. Anyways, somebody who is doing laps is still probably taking less time than somebody who is hanging the entire way up, which is often the case.
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caughtinside
Jan 19, 2012, 11:12 PM
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shockabuku wrote: Not paying attention to where your route goes and putting someone else, who was there first, on another intersecting route in a bad position because of it. hah. I still do this some times.
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snoopy138
Jan 20, 2012, 1:38 AM
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caughtinside wrote: shockabuku wrote: Not paying attention to where your route goes and putting someone else, who was there first, on another intersecting route in a bad position because of it. hah. I still do this some times. yes, well, you are a well-known douche.
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caughtinside
Jan 20, 2012, 1:40 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: shockabuku wrote: Not paying attention to where your route goes and putting someone else, who was there first, on another intersecting route in a bad position because of it. hah. I still do this some times. yes, well, you are a well-known douche. I blame the gym route developer.
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j_ung
Jan 20, 2012, 12:57 PM
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johnwesely wrote: People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't.
j_ung wrote: ...a lot of new climbers somehow get the notion that there's a code of etiquette to climbing other than common consideration and politeness.
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johnwesely
Jan 20, 2012, 2:16 PM
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j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't. j_ung wrote: ...a lot of new climbers somehow get the notion that there's a code of etiquette to climbing other than common consideration and politeness. What I am talking about certainly should be done in a polite way and never abused, but it matters far less to person who is just climbing randomly to wait a few extra minutes or seconds for a climb than someone who is doing something structured. I know it sounds bad when I say it on the internet, but it is not like I advocate someone ARCing for 30 minutes on one of three routes in the gym on the busiest night of the week.
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thatclimberguy
Jan 20, 2012, 3:02 PM
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This is more regarding safety. Don't act like you know how to do something if you don't or are unsure. All climbers know how important safety is, and most are more than willing to help if you just ASK. Ask: Is it ok to climb this route with him climbing next to me? Is my harness/belay device/knot set up correctly? What do i say if i want to take a break? Do i look stupid with all of this extra gear on my harness while gym climbing? Answer: yes! But really, Just keep yourself safe, and others around you safe, try not to look too much like a gumby, but don't act like you aren't. And if you do all of that you'll have a great time climbing, and gain many close friends that you can say trust you with their lives, which is pretty awesome.
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j_ung
Jan 20, 2012, 8:26 PM
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johnwesely wrote: j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't. j_ung wrote: ...a lot of new climbers somehow get the notion that there's a code of etiquette to climbing other than common consideration and politeness. What I am talking about certainly should be done in a polite way and never abused, but it matters far less to person who is just climbing randomly to wait a few extra minutes or seconds for a climb than someone who is doing something structured. I know it sounds bad when I say it on the internet, but it is not like I advocate someone ARCing for 30 minutes on one of three routes in the gym on the busiest night of the week. If by polite way, you mean ask if they mind and limit your burns if they do, then I agree. If you mean ask politely but do whatever you want despite the answer, I don't.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 20, 2012, 8:28 PM)
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johnwesely
Jan 20, 2012, 8:46 PM
Post #44 of 45
(2575 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't. j_ung wrote: ...a lot of new climbers somehow get the notion that there's a code of etiquette to climbing other than common consideration and politeness. What I am talking about certainly should be done in a polite way and never abused, but it matters far less to person who is just climbing randomly to wait a few extra minutes or seconds for a climb than someone who is doing something structured. I know it sounds bad when I say it on the internet, but it is not like I advocate someone ARCing for 30 minutes on one of three routes in the gym on the busiest night of the week. If by polite way, you mean ask if they mind and limit your burns if they do, then I agree. If you mean ask politely but do whatever you want despite the answer, I don't. I mean the one of the two that is actually polite.
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j_ung
Jan 20, 2012, 8:50 PM
Post #45 of 45
(2572 views)
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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johnwesely wrote: j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: People who are doing structured training trump those who are just climbing. For the people doing structured training, it matters that they don't break between goes. For everyone else, it doesn't. j_ung wrote: ...a lot of new climbers somehow get the notion that there's a code of etiquette to climbing other than common consideration and politeness. What I am talking about certainly should be done in a polite way and never abused, but it matters far less to person who is just climbing randomly to wait a few extra minutes or seconds for a climb than someone who is doing something structured. I know it sounds bad when I say it on the internet, but it is not like I advocate someone ARCing for 30 minutes on one of three routes in the gym on the busiest night of the week. If by polite way, you mean ask if they mind and limit your burns if they do, then I agree. If you mean ask politely but do whatever you want despite the answer, I don't. I mean the one of the two that is actually polite. Groovy. Ya never can tell these days.
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