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ecade


Jan 27, 2012, 11:22 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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Born and Raised in Toronto, where bouts you from?

Toronto has many gyms, some that have people who arent friendly until they see you crank out some grades ... but, if you are ever in the area, check out True North its in downsview park (duff-sheppard). Always has N00bs, large gym, but doesn't smell like feet like old Rock Oasis, and doesnt have the jerks like many other gyms. Has some taller routes, especially in lead cave but nothing like old oasis' 60'
Staff are friendly and accomodating of requests. I once asked them for a route, 5.11 overhang cave route with a dyno right at the lip so as to have a really clean fall, with a bolt that was just out of reach so you had to make the move first, forcing you to summon your confidence and quell your fear, when I came in that evening, she was waiting.


bearbreeder


Jan 27, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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climbers seem to hate an awful much these days ... its not like most RCers are "elite" climbers either Tongue


superchuffer


Jan 27, 2012, 12:14 PM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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Stone Age in Albuquerque is exactly as you describe. they give way more of a shit about kids groups and birthday parties than creating an environment where people can train.

...and no proper AC, and it is new mexico!

oh, and you can't even excape into your own music because they don't allow headphones.


flesh


Jan 30, 2012, 7:09 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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The other problem with gyms is how soft everything is. I went to the biggest gym here locally a couple weeks ago, 1400 members, I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

I feel bad for the gym rats there when they go outside. They will probably think that it's sandbag, lol. Maybe this helps gain membership? lol it really was pathetic


(This post was edited by flesh on Jan 30, 2012, 7:10 PM)


jbro_135


Jan 30, 2012, 7:25 PM
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I always wonder when people post stuff like "I started climbing in the gym 3 months ago and just sent my first V12, do you think I should start looking for sponsors or start climbing outside?"


I_do


Jan 30, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Re: [flesh] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
The other problem with gyms is how soft everything is. I went to the biggest gym here locally a couple weeks ago, 1400 members, I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

I feel bad for the gym rats there when they go outside. They will probably think that it's sandbag, lol. Maybe this helps gain membership? lol it really was pathetic

Well I for one, and I must say most of my friends who climb outdoors with any frequency send harder climbs outdoor then indoors.

Outdoors climbs tend to be less athlethically challenging i.m.h.o..


kalen666


Jan 31, 2012, 12:11 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
It honestly sounds like your location is a large part of the problem. Sorry to be stereotypical about New Yorkers, but yeah, sounds like NYC kind of thing. (My family lives in NYC, btw, and I visit there regularly, which included visiting the climbing gyms, so I do know what I am talking about. People there are way more uptight and inconsiderate than in other gyms I have visited).

So what can you do, other than the things that you already mentioned, such as doing the training in the off-peak hours, etc.?

I would say, recruit a few friends to do the training with you. If there is one guy trying to do 4x4s, the wall section looks not busy/fair game to others. If you have 2 guys climbing next to each other, and two more standing on the ground cheering and waiting to get on for their turn, you look like a cohesive group, and it is more likely to deter a random guy from jumping in on that section (not to mention the fact that the guys on the ground can do the explaining/ask people to wait).

If you are climbing in a largish gym, talk to the people in charge about setting up a dedicated "training area". It wouldn't have to be large, and it can be roped off, or the signs could be put up, saying that this area is for training, so people who do the training instead of just climbing have preference.
We don't have this luxury in our gym, but one section, containing systems board, campus strips, cracks of various sizes and a hangboard IS a training-gets-preference area. Whenever there are groups of newbies climbing in the gym, the belay staff points out those walls and says something like: on the wall over there, you have to observe special rules. You cannot step on any of the big holds/blocks, feet only go on little holds. And if you see someone there doing laps, make sure you stay out of their way.

The powers that be in your gym might be willing to incorporate "training area" into their wall stripping/route-setting rotation schedule, if you ask them super-nicely. E.g. something like this section of the wall is for training only for 4 weeks, then it gets completely stripped, and the next section becomes training area, to be stripped 4 weeks later.
This may be a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt asking, right? For all you know, maybe the people in charge would actually like the idea of putting a "gym training team" together, specifically for people who want to train.

And beyond these ideas, you can always try setting up your own co-op gym, open only to serious climbers. It would be an investment and a hassle to set it up, but the payback would be good, too.
climb nashville was the same way in tennessee, vertical excape in evansville is my favortie gym ive been too out of the four or five, the bouldering gym in ll lexington, bluegrass boulders, for bieng so close to the red, was kinda cool too. but minus Bluegrass and VZ the othes were overcrowded sandbaged nonsence, im a solid 10b climber, the gym in nasvile was so badly undergraded that i was sending 11b 11c, a whole number grade up. there setting people up to fail, they get out on somthing they think is in there grade and dice out on it, fall and boom, climbing area banned when a noob falls, decks and breaks his legs.


johnwesely


Jan 31, 2012, 4:53 AM
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Re: [I_do] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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I_do wrote:
flesh wrote:
The other problem with gyms is how soft everything is. I went to the biggest gym here locally a couple weeks ago, 1400 members, I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

I feel bad for the gym rats there when they go outside. They will probably think that it's sandbag, lol. Maybe this helps gain membership? lol it really was pathetic

Well I for one, and I must say most of my friends who climb outdoors with any frequency send harder climbs outdoor then indoors.

Outdoors climbs tend to be less athlethically challenging i.m.h.o..

I boulder harder outside than in the gym, and most of my climbing and 98% of my bouldering is in the gym.


I_do


Jan 31, 2012, 5:13 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
I_do wrote:
flesh wrote:
The other problem with gyms is how soft everything is. I went to the biggest gym here locally a couple weeks ago, 1400 members, I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

I feel bad for the gym rats there when they go outside. They will probably think that it's sandbag, lol. Maybe this helps gain membership? lol it really was pathetic

Well I for one, and I must say most of my friends who climb outdoors with any frequency send harder climbs outdoor then indoors.

Outdoors climbs tend to be less athlethically challenging i.m.h.o..

I boulder harder outside than in the gym, and most of my climbing and 98% of my bouldering is in the gym.

I actually don't know how hard I climb routes outdoors anymore, I haven't properly tried in years... Go to font several times a year though, no chance of bouldering harder then in the gym over there...

Other then that the real answer is probably it depends ;)


eric_k


Jan 31, 2012, 6:21 AM
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The best way to avoid this problem is to get a job at said gym, one hour a week is usually sufficient. Then you can often climb before or after hours. This is my experience at least.

Eric


mojomonkey


Jan 31, 2012, 1:51 PM
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flesh wrote:
I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

To be fair, it can be really tough to accurately set/grade in the 5.6 - 5.8 range. Were they crimpy? Or maybe just enduro?


flesh


Jan 31, 2012, 2:18 PM
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I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.


camhead


Jan 31, 2012, 2:29 PM
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flesh wrote:
I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.

Oh, and why be concerned with grades in a gym? Boulder what is hard for you, whether it's an 8 or a 12.


flesh


Jan 31, 2012, 2:33 PM
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camhead wrote:
flesh wrote:
I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.

Oh, and why be concerned with grades in a gym? Boulder what is hard for you, whether it's an 8 or a 12.

It's interesting, that's why, if you don't think so, fantastic!

I didn't ask for a spelling lesson champ. Maybe you'd like an etiquette lesson?


camhead


Jan 31, 2012, 2:55 PM
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flesh wrote:
camhead wrote:
flesh wrote:
I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.

Oh, and why be concerned with grades in a gym? Boulder what is hard for you, whether it's an 8 or a 12.

It's interesting, that's why, if you don't think so, fantastic!

I didn't ask for a spelling lesson champ. Maybe you'd like an etiquette lesson?

Sorry, you got a spelling lesson, after I saw that your misspelling was a chronic problem of fundamental ignorance, rather than a simple typo; you spelled it that way at least 4 or 5 times. I mean, seriously, what goes through your brain to ever think that "were" is spelled "we're?" You have to ADD an apostrophe, so it's not even a problem of omitting.

It is "etiquette" to tell people when they're making themselves look like idiots. Kind of like saying, "hey, your zipper's down."


ceebo


Jan 31, 2012, 2:58 PM
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flesh wrote:
I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.
I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

I don't think the grade of a indoor route is so static, they are actuall very very dynamic given the setters height, strengths and weakneses.

The ''opinion'' of a guy who set a route in his weakest style is likely to have it slightly too hard. In his strong style.. maybe bang on or slightly sand.

Setting routes for people of veried heights and in veried styles is FKING hard (anybody feel free to try it, get back to me). If they are only slightly out then they done a good job. A soft v8 that is is realy a hard v7?.. its close enough.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jan 31, 2012, 2:59 PM)


flesh


Jan 31, 2012, 3:04 PM
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camhead wrote:
flesh wrote:
camhead wrote:
flesh wrote:
I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.

Oh, and why be concerned with grades in a gym? Boulder what is hard for you, whether it's an 8 or a 12.

It's interesting, that's why, if you don't think so, fantastic!

I didn't ask for a spelling lesson champ. Maybe you'd like an etiquette lesson?

Sorry, you got a spelling lesson, after I saw that your misspelling was a chronic problem of fundamental ignorance, rather than a simple typo; you spelled it that way at least 4 or 5 times. I mean, seriously, what goes through your brain to ever think that "were" is spelled "we're?" You have to ADD an apostrophe, so it's not even a problem of omitting.

It is "etiquette" to tell people when they're making themselves look like idiots. Kind of like saying, "hey, your zipper's down."

Cam, do you talk to folks you don't know like this often? In other words, if they say or type one thing incorrect, do you find it important that you correct them, when you don't know them? Are you sure you don't look like an idiot? I get it, you don't like people who discuss or appear to care about grades, that's ok bro, no biggie.

Maybe give folks a chance before you suffocate them, eh?


herites


Jan 31, 2012, 3:22 PM
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You having period, or what? He pointed out a huge mistake, not even rude, and you go raging. It's kinda like saying the gumby that he treaded his grigri wrong.


flesh


Jan 31, 2012, 3:25 PM
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herites wrote:
You having period, or what? He pointed out a huge mistake, not even rude, and you go raging. It's kinda like saying the gumby that he treaded his grigri wrong.

No, I guess i'm one of the few who treat people on a forum the way I do IRL.

I find often people do alot of things that seem stupid to me, I don't find it important or productive to let them know. Unless they ask.


shockabuku


Jan 31, 2012, 4:07 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote:
[Rant]

Does anyone else feel like they're swimming upstream when trying to train in a commercial gym? I seem to annoy or get annoyed by other people on an almost weekly basis. After a month and a half in the gym, and still a solid month and a half away from Spring climbing, I'm losing hope. For example...

"ARCing" - No fucking way. I only attempt to ARC during off-peak hours, nevertheless there's always some goddamn noob breathing down my neck 10 minutes into the workout. Invariably. Apparently you can run on a treadmill for 20 minutes at every fitness center in the country with no issues, but try to run laps on a 35 foot gym route for 20 minutes and you're an inconsiderate asshole. So I've been told while belaying my partner, and in no uncertain terms. The auto-belay? Forget about it! Noobs (and parents who can't be bothered to learn to belay their kids) are attracted to it like flies to shit. Bonus points for being asked to turn over the auto-belay by a pair of climbers.

4x4's and Roped Laps - They're easier to pull off than an ARC session, but still quite perilous. First off, your chances of actually completing a proper 4x4 with the prescribed rest period are not very good in the typical gym. Even if you let everyone else around you know you'd like to do the workout (which usually requires patiently explaining what the hell a 4x4 is), someone else can always show up and start a boulder problem as soon as you've dropped off the top, mid-set. Then, someone else is on the wall when you should be starting your next set. A partner can help to control traffic, but again, you're doing multiple laps on a route or boulder problem, and the average gym climber can't think of any reason why you'd do that...other than to be a selfish, inconsiderate prick.

Hangboarding/Campusing - Seriously, forget about it. Like interval training, your chances of actually completing your workout with the right rest periods are slim. Give it 5 minutes, tops, until someone comes up and starts doing pullups on the jugs in front of his rental-shoe-clad girlfriend.

But, what can you do? I suppose I could just put in my headphones, crank the volume, and ARC to my heart's delight, protestations be damned. I could try to explain what the hell I'm doing, but I fear I don't have the patience for that. Or I could admit defeat, that the climbing gym isn't really a place to train, that the gym cares more about selling fucking birthday parties than being a place where athletes hone their skills, and that the gym is primarily a playground for non-climbers and children who think it's some kind of adventure.

I'm losing hope, folks. Or, I think I may be understanding, more clearly than ever, just what climbing gyms are all about. Is the spring here yet?

[/Rant]

Sounds like the only solution is a complete change in attitude.

Gyms are like that, improvise, deal, be friendly when it's useful, be arrogant when it works, recognize that there are going to be complications before you start.


shockabuku


Jan 31, 2012, 4:11 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
So you go to a commercial climbing gym and you are upset that they have other members?


Pretty much. Well, almost. The place has gone nuts with these "groupons" and "living social" deals and there's a heavy influx of new climbers. And it sucks. The "brahs"/gym rats are not the problem; they know what a 4x4 is.

In reply to:
Maybe you can use the money you spend on membership to build your own personal wall at home, buy a treadmill wall perhaps.

I'm an apartment dweller.

In reply to:
The whole gym's climbing membership doesn't revolve around you. of course, you could also ignore those other guest and keep running laps, who cares what they think of you. Unless the gym staff is asking you to quit or you are breaking some rules that is.

The way I see it, you can be upset by doing what the other guest want you to do, or you can upset the other by doing what you want. The choice is yours.

Yup. I'm leaning towards cranking the iPod and just doing it.

In reply to:
Noobs, beginners, and birthday parties are one thing that helps keep a gym in business so the more serious climbers like you have a place to climb during the week and off season.

Yes, I know, but it's a tough pill to swallow. In truth, the local gym is really good in terms of terrain and route-setting. The route-setters are all very talented climbers that set hard, creative stuff.

One other idea I had was asking the route-setters to concentrate the more difficult routes and boulder problems in certain areas. If one wall is all V4 and up, or 5.11 and up, it would help tremendously.

Damn, where do you climb?


shockabuku


Jan 31, 2012, 4:48 PM
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flesh wrote:
camhead wrote:
flesh wrote:
camhead wrote:
flesh wrote:
I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.

Oh, and why be concerned with grades in a gym? Boulder what is hard for you, whether it's an 8 or a 12.

It's interesting, that's why, if you don't think so, fantastic!

I didn't ask for a spelling lesson champ. Maybe you'd like an etiquette lesson?

Sorry, you got a spelling lesson, after I saw that your misspelling was a chronic problem of fundamental ignorance, rather than a simple typo; you spelled it that way at least 4 or 5 times. I mean, seriously, what goes through your brain to ever think that "were" is spelled "we're?" You have to ADD an apostrophe, so it's not even a problem of omitting.

It is "etiquette" to tell people when they're making themselves look like idiots. Kind of like saying, "hey, your zipper's down."

Cam, do you talk to folks you don't know like this often? In other words, if they say or type one thing incorrect, do you find it important that you correct them, when you don't know them? Are you sure you don't look like an idiot? I get it, you don't like people who discuss or appear to care about grades, that's ok bro, no biggie.

Maybe give folks a chance before you suffocate them, eh?

It's like walking around with a booger hanging out of your nose - be glad he let you know.


flesh


Feb 1, 2012, 9:57 AM
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Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.



Look at the language camhead used. Does this sound like a friendly gesture geared towards being helpful to someone you've never met or had any contact with before? Could he have simply pmed me or did he get some sort of ego boost from this?

We can disagree, just making my point.

One of my businesses, I do financial planning for people. Some of them very smart and successful. It astounds me how absolutely juvenile most people are with their money. Regardless of income or education. I don't attack them, I make suggestions and attempt to help them see the big picture. One of them made 5 mil/year for 7 years and now has 100k to his name.

Back on topic.


jt512


Feb 1, 2012, 2:52 PM
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Re: [flesh] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.



Look at the language camhead used. Does this sound like a friendly gesture geared towards being helpful to someone you've never met or had any contact with before? Could he have simply pmed me or did he get some sort of ego boost from this?

We can disagree, just making my point.

One of my businesses, I do financial planning for people. Some of them very smart and successful. It astounds me how absolutely juvenile most people are with their money. Regardless of income or education. I don't attack them, I make suggestions and attempt to help them see the big picture. One of them made 5 mil/year for 7 years and now has 100k to his name.

And if you ever make those suggestions in writing, and keep spelling the word "were" with an apostrophe, and make the other frequent grammatical errors you do, then an educated client might question whether you had the basic intelligence necessary to be a competent financial planner. How well you express yourself in writing creates an impression about your intelligence, your educational background, and your attention to detail—qualities that a client of a financial planner might consider important.

Personally, I care about the way I write. When someone corrects an error I make in my writing, especially if it is an error I make systematically, I'm generally grateful for it. Even if the intention underlying the correction is isn't helpfulness, the correction is still helpful.

Jay


Traches


Feb 1, 2012, 4:10 PM
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Re: [jt512] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym [In reply to]
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Poor spelling and grammar irritate me as much as anybody, but there comes a point where the correction and subsequent bitch fits become far more disruptive than the original mistake. I believe, good sirs, that this is a rock climbing forum and not an etymology forum; perhaps this conversation would best be conducted elsewhere?

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