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Critique top rope anchor
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JimTitt


Feb 25, 2012, 10:48 PM
Post #26 of 29 (1298 views)
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Registered: Aug 7, 2008
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Re: [Perthian] Critique top rope anchor [In reply to]
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Standards are obviously different in the USA!
In the UK and Germany at least your set-up would get an immediate fail if you were being assessed for any of the climbing instructors qualifications. The use of active protection (cams) in unsupervised belays is a definately no-no as the continuous movement of the rope which is typical of top-roping may cause them to walk, either into a position where they can fail or where they cannot be removed.
The use of the cord equaliser would also get you a fail.


guangzhou


Feb 26, 2012, 2:11 AM
Post #27 of 29 (1280 views)
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Re: [JimTitt] Critique top rope anchor [In reply to]
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While I do prefer nuts and hexes for top-rope anchors, I have set up in many places where a cam was the only option.

While climbing in Germany, I did see a guided group top-roping on anchors that definitely had cams in the system. With that said, many of Germany's areas and routes have bolted top anchors.

Like any anchor, cams are safe for top-rope if placed properly for the use. I trust a well placed cam much more than a bolt placed by some unknown person. One I can inspect, the other I can't.


sprucetrap


Feb 29, 2012, 7:04 PM
Post #28 of 29 (1194 views)
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Re: [USnavy] Critique top rope anchor [In reply to]
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US Navy, your analysis helped even before I saw the picture. I started leading last year and specifically remember putting a cam on a flake.... now it is like duh? Thank you


overlord


Mar 1, 2012, 1:35 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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Re: [jt512] Critique top rope anchor [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
jt512 wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
was this yr anchor? ... i hope yr not running around taking pics of people's anchors without permission

Without permission? Is this some inside joke I missed, or are you serous?

Jay

totally serious ...

i dont run around taking photos of peoples anchors without at the very least informing them ...

most of the time i find people who run around doing so are just looking to armchair quarterback the photos on some web forum ...

what i will do if i find something unsafe is have a quiet word at first ... and only go "public" if it affects me

i consider it basic courtesy ... not something thats an RC specialty Wink

I agree that if you see something unsafe you should say something. However, I see no reason not to take a picture of someone's anchor, safe or unsafe, and to use it as an example online.

Jay
every anchor is an artwork and so the copyright for its pictures goes to the author. hence you're not allowed to take pictures of it. just like in cinema. you're not allowed to record the crappy movie. even if you want to criticize bad editing Tongue

as for the anchor in this thread... it is just too complicated. if you complicate things, chances are, something will go wrong. keep it simple, keep it safe. and, for the love of god, do not put all your camming devices into the same crack if you can avoid it. if that flake goes, your redundancy goes. and i can see numerous other suitable sites just from the photo Wink

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