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Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt
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skahatoad


Feb 27, 2012, 10:52 AM
Post #26 of 30 (674 views)
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Registered: Jan 31, 2012
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Re: [Rem_700] Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt [In reply to]
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I love solo roped climibng. Since I can't always find a partner and sometime I just want to "work" a route and take my time. I use an USHBA. totally love it. No teeth to ruin a rope. for solo lead I have a "silent partner" but I have not used it much. I lent my buddy my petzl basic for solo. It beats his old way! So as soon as it warms up and climbing season starts again we will post videos on utube using the USHBA and the BASIC and the SILENT PARTNER.. I used to have a ropeman too, but dropped it and could not find it again and just have not bought another one. I really liked it and I think it is a good back up for you too.
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herites


Feb 27, 2012, 3:48 PM
Post #27 of 30 (640 views)
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Registered: Apr 10, 2011
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Re: [skahatoad] Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt [In reply to]
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You bought an amazing amount of gear for soloing purpose. I'm poor as hell, so I lead solo with my reverso (would be better with an ATC guide due to it's orientation in guide mode, but its facking expensive here) and TR solo with my unmodded grigri2. Not a single buck spent for soloing gear :)


(This post was edited by herites on Feb 27, 2012, 3:49 PM)


Rmsyll2


Feb 28, 2012, 6:57 AM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2010
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Response: [herites] TR solo with a Grigri [In reply to]
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Whether using a Grigri is sufficient or safe has been another matter raised over and over. Without myself having raised the issue again, allow me to again raise some facts:
http://climbpilotnc.us/...olo/GrigriSoloTR.htm

A detail has since been altered: the carabiner on the belay loop is replaced by a small loop of cord keeping the attachment carabiner up at the waist belt loop, and that carabiner is never removed from the belay loop, preventing any attachment error. Removing the flopping up and down on the belay loop has made a welcome improvement. And that notion had been posted here by someone's girlfriend: long live forums.

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dead_horse_flats


Mar 3, 2012, 7:13 PM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2006
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Re: [Rem_700] Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt [In reply to]
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Here is two more items to consider when solo top roping. These two items are mistakes that I have made.

1. My first big mistake was trying to solo top rope a hard overhang with no extra gear. I made it about half way up the route before failure. At this point I swung away from the rock and was suspended from a petzl microcender on a single line. I was too far from the rock to get back to it and continue the climb. So as a newbie, I was stuck. The only other gear I had was a knife. So after swinging for a bit, I figured my only option was to cut the rope and fall for about 15 feet. However I was too chicken to do that, so I swung for another 5 minutes until I remembered the FOTH bit on wrapping the rope around my foot to ascend the rope.

Lesson learned was carry a sling to prussic up the rope if I get stuck.

2. My second big mistake was to let go of the rope. In this situation I had rapped into a canyon where the anchor was on a ledge midway down with a bit of a traverse. So when I let go of the rope it swung away from me leaving me stranded on the ledge. The rope was about 5 feet out of reach. To get the rope back I had to free solo a 5.11 section to get it back. The only reason I did this was that if I fell, I would have landed in water. But I got lucky and didnít fall.

Lesson learned was never let go of the rope.


(This post was edited by dead_horse_flats on Mar 3, 2012, 7:15 PM)


bearbreeder


Mar 3, 2012, 8:20 PM
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Re: [dead_horse_flats] Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt [In reply to]
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thats the best advice so far here ...

i always carry a sling or two when soloing TR and use a kleimheist (learn it one day youll only have slings and no prussik cord) ...

i also make a tendency these days to clove the end of the ropes to my harness or a lower anchor prior to taking off the belay device when rapping down for TR solos or other such ..

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