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Not reaching anchor on lead climb
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Partner drector


Mar 21, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Re: [jorgegonzalez] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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jorgegonzalez wrote:
I am not putting him down, I am counseling that people should not try to take on climbs that are too hard for themselves because it can have disastrous consequences.

It is interesting that a lot of legendary climbers who did legendary climbs did so without really knowing if the climb was too hard or not. They had adventure and went for it. Discouraging people from taking risks is discouraging them from having adventures.

I once taught a guy on a route next to mine how to rap using a figure-8. I didn't fault him for his lack of knowledge.

Dave


bearbreeder


Mar 21, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Re: [drector] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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i think the flipside is that they lived through it ...

in ancient rome the great orator cicero once saw a mosaic that showed people on a sinking ship who prayed, and subsequently lived ...

he then asked "what about those who prayed and died?"

survivors tell the tales ...Wink


marc801


Mar 21, 2012, 1:01 PM
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Re: [drector] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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drector wrote:
jorgegonzalez wrote:
I am not putting him down, I am counseling that people should not try to take on climbs that are too hard for themselves because it can have disastrous consequences.

It is interesting that a lot of legendary climbers who did legendary climbs did so without really knowing if the climb was too hard or not. They had adventure and went for it. Discouraging people from taking risks is discouraging them from having adventures.
The key point you're missing is that those climbers had survived their apprenticeship and had progressed to a significant level of expertise. In this thread we've talking about someone that is still fairly inexperienced. Asking and seeking knowledge is totally fine - suggesting he go an have an adventure, at this point in his knowledge base, borders on being irresponsible.


jdensign5


Aug 20, 2012, 2:33 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:

There's a story of a n00b wall climber, he'd been learning his aid systems, and had found his way to Yosemite Valley. Well he wanders into the Cafeteria and sees a big name wall climber. He walks right up, introduces himself, and tells the guy what an honor it is to meet him.

Then he asks for the guys opinion "What do you think I need to do to get ready for my first trip up El Cap?"

The big name wall climber explains to the noob how he should start with several grade IV routes, work his way up, do Washington Column, yada yada. The n00b looks crestfallen.

"But I'm only here for two weeks!" he says. "I heard that your first real aid climb was a new route up El Cap! So why do I need to spend all that time working up through the grades?"

"You're right," says the big name climber. "My first wall was a new route up El Cap. But the difference is that I didn't have to ask anyone any how-to before doing it."

If you have to ask how to bail, follow healyje's advice. If you don't... well then there you go, you're already all set and you know it.

GO

Love, love, freakin' love it! Great story.


(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 20, 2012, 2:35 PM)


jdensign5


Aug 20, 2012, 2:42 PM
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Re: [marc801] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
drector wrote:
jorgegonzalez wrote:
I am not putting him down, I am counseling that people should not try to take on climbs that are too hard for themselves because it can have disastrous consequences.

It is interesting that a lot of legendary climbers who did legendary climbs did so without really knowing if the climb was too hard or not. They had adventure and went for it. Discouraging people from taking risks is discouraging them from having adventures.
The key point you're missing is that those climbers had survived their apprenticeship and had progressed to a significant level of expertise. In this thread we've talking about someone that is still fairly inexperienced. Asking and seeking knowledge is totally fine - suggesting he go an have an adventure, at this point in his knowledge base, borders on being irresponsible.

I agree.
I don't think it is ONLY inexperience that makes it irresponsible to try the unknown. I am an advocate of trying new things. I think a beginner can trythe unknown but if they lack critical thinking, and lack of basic knowledge (like going online to ask basic questions they should be able to figure out), those are the ones in trouble.


fusionbjj


Jan 29, 2013, 2:16 PM
Post #56 of 60 (2099 views)
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Re: [jdensign5] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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It's a bit hard to explain, but there is a way to retreat from a sport climb that is safe and leaves nothing behind. We always called it "the sling trick".

It allows you to rap off your rope for a maximum length of 1/3 whatever the total rope length is.

You clip into the bolt. Then thread a sling through the bolt and pull the rope through it and lower one end until it just reaches the ground. Then you untie the rope from yourself and tie the end to one side of the threaded sling.

What you end up with is a rope with 3 strands. 2 of them are through the sling and the last is non weight bearing and tied to the sling itself. You then rappel off the 2 weight bearing strands.

When you get to the ground, you then pull the middle strand so the free end rises up and passes back through the sling. Then you can pull the whole rig down.

You must take precautions not to pull the wrong strand, else you end up with the sling girth hitched to the bolt with the rope still tied on. Likewise, you must make sure the sewn section of the sling (or the knot, in the case of old school tied slings) is on the proper side of the bolt, else it could get stuck that way.

I used this method many times as a newb, because the idea of leaving anything behind just seemed like insult to injury. Eventually, my ego subsidded and I switched to what is most certainly the best way to deal with the situation: Just leave a bail biner.


sbaclimber


Jan 31, 2013, 3:36 AM
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Re: [fusionbjj] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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fusionbjj wrote:
It's a bit hard to explain, but there is a way to retreat from a sport climb that is safe and leaves nothing behind. We always called it "the sling trick".
Everyone else calls it the "Texas Rope Trick"... Wink


EdBustamante


Jan 31, 2013, 3:57 AM
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Re: [Beginner_2] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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most climbers i know carry bail gear webbing rap rings lockinng caribiners .back up the lat bolt and rap out.
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donnie


Jan 31, 2013, 8:44 AM
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Re: [Beginner_2] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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buy a cheap biner and leave it on your harness for these situations. if you feel you are pooping out and cant climb on, place the biner instead of a draw and leave it. you'll booty other peoples' biners in the future, it all works out. if you already placed a draw and climbed past it, then gassed out, you can either lower off and leave the draw, or down climb and try swapping the draw for the bail biner. if youre already that spent that you cant climb to the next bolt to place a bail biner, youre probably gonna be too gassed to swap a draw for a biner and with the mental aspect of a longer fall if you blow it, its just easier and less scary to leave the draw. simple. done. no mucking about trying to unclip a draw to replace it with a biner while gripped and freaking out worrying about falling. it happens, dont worry about it. they make draws and cheap biners everyday, you can get a replacement.


(This post was edited by donnie on Jan 31, 2013, 8:48 AM)


redlude97


Jan 31, 2013, 9:20 AM
Post #60 of 60 (2004 views)
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Re: [EdBustamante] Not reaching anchor on lead climb [In reply to]
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EdBustamante wrote:
most climbers i know carry bail gear webbing rap rings lockinng caribiners .back up the lat bolt and rap out.
The people you know are gumbies.


(This post was edited by redlude97 on Jan 31, 2013, 9:20 AM)

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