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Clmbbend


Mar 17, 2012, 10:05 PM
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REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock
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A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe.

Clmbbend


marc801


Mar 17, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Re: [Clmbbend] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Clmbbend wrote:
A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe.
Which basically makes this post pointless. For all we know this could be a total fabrication. Why even mention REI?


acorneau


Mar 18, 2012, 7:22 AM
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Re: [Clmbbend] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Could it be that some of the fake Petzl biners* made their way into the REI distribution chain?



* http://www.petzl.com/...sions-petzl-products

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2460950#2460950


(This post was edited by acorneau on Mar 18, 2012, 7:24 AM)


shotwell


Mar 18, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Re: [acorneau] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
Could it be that some of the fake Petzl biners* made their way into the REI distribution chain?



* http://www.petzl.com/...sions-petzl-products

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2460950#2460950

This is as irresponsible as the first post. We have no useful information here.


bill413


Mar 19, 2012, 7:04 AM
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Re: [shotwell] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Searching Google for
In reply to:
"smith rock" accident
restricted to updates in the past week (as of 3/19/12) yields three pages of results, none of which indicate a climbing accident this week; except for the two hits referring to this thread (one here, one from an aggregator that's picked up this thread).

I note that the OP registered today, this was his first post.

Someone hating on REI?


bearbreeder


Mar 19, 2012, 9:26 AM
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Re: [bill413] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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im not aware of any carabiner that REI sells that another retailer doesnt also carry ...

enuff saif Tongue


majid_sabet


Mar 19, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Re: [Clmbbend] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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what does failure means ?

broken gate, crack biner ?

a worthless post


wonderwoman
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Mar 19, 2012, 10:35 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
im not aware of any carabiner that REI sells that another retailer doesnt also carry ...

enuff saif Tongue

I have a few REI brand carabiners. They are very old and I believe REI stopped stamping their name on them for fear of liability issues.

Found this on ebay. Look closely for the REI logo on the biner's spine before the USA stamp:



But yes, unless someone comes forward with more information there is currently not enough info in this thread to be useful. I'm not afraid of my REI biners.


(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Mar 19, 2012, 10:47 AM)


billcoe_


Mar 19, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Clmberbend doesn't say it's an REI biner. Could be a Black Diamond that was purchased at REI. Should we start a list of all the carabiners REI sells so that we can start speculating on which one it was that failed. I'm sure, from the first post, that it wasn't due to the biner being improperly loaded, cause he says there was "No obvoius reason for failure." "failed". Not - someone fell on it and it broke, it could have just been sitting there on the ground and fell apart on it's own?

I'll start:

Omega Pacific
Black Diamond
Camp
Mammut
Mad Rock
Metolius
Petzl.....wait, back up. Dude said that it was "being tested at a local climbing manufacturer". Smith? There's only one. That has to be Metolius.

So thus, we can continue the speculation that all Metolius carabiners are bad and thus need to be recalled or we will all die.

That's what I get out of it. But what we clearly need is 20 more pages of supposition, incomplete information and wild assed guesses till this thread plays out.

Regards


bill413


Mar 20, 2012, 6:07 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Ok, I'll help fill this up with more speculation.

Doesn't have to be Metolius - they could have been testing a competitor's biner.


marc801


Mar 20, 2012, 6:44 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
But what we clearly need is 20 more pages of supposition, incomplete information and wild assed guesses till this thread plays out.
Not really. The OP is either a troll or is massively butt-hurt over REI. In either case, until we get more details, for now we can only surmise that the OP is a bit of an ass.

[Edit to convert pre-coffee post to English]


(This post was edited by marc801 on Mar 20, 2012, 7:44 AM)


dynosore


Mar 20, 2012, 7:28 AM
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Re: [Clmbbend] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Clmbbend wrote:
A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe.

Clmbbend

You don't know the brand or model, so I think we can assume you've not even seen said item. Maybe the biner was broken by that axe you seem to be grinding against REI?


IPissonurproj


Mar 20, 2012, 9:11 AM
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Re: [Clmbbend] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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Here's what happened:

Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks.


billcoe_


Mar 20, 2012, 9:08 PM
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IPissonurproj wrote:
Here's what happened:

Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks.


LOL, for the win!


moose_droppings


Mar 20, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:

So thus, we can continue the speculation that all Metolius carabiners are bad and thus need to be recalled or we will all die.

For sale: All my Metolius biners.

Just to be safe: All my Metolius cams, slings, nut tool, harnesses, gear slings.

Also for sale: All pieces of fallen sky that have landed near any Metolius gear.
All gear I have that starts with a "M".




So.......is BD's stuff still OK? Sale pending.


bill413


Mar 21, 2012, 6:29 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
billcoe_ wrote:

So thus, we can continue the speculation that all Metolius carabiners are bad and thus need to be recalled or we will all die.

For sale: All my Metolius biners.

Just to be safe: All my Metolius cams, slings, nut tool, harnesses, gear slings.

Also for sale: All pieces of fallen sky that have landed near any Metolius gear.
All gear I have that starts with a "M".




So.......is BD's stuff still OK? Sale pending.

Not if it's been on the same rack as your Metolius stuff.


moose_droppings


Mar 21, 2012, 7:44 AM
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bill413 wrote:

Not if it's been on the same rack as your Metolius stuff.


Entire rack for sale.

2 cars for sale: Low miles. Only used to carry me and my Metolius gear a few times.


ianwatson


Mar 21, 2012, 7:54 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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I plan to go to REI today and get a orange Metolius
mini to rack a #3 Metolius tcu.


(This post was edited by ianwatson on Mar 21, 2012, 7:56 AM)


moose_droppings


Mar 21, 2012, 1:53 PM
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ianwatson wrote:
I plan to go to REI today and get a orange Metolius
mini to rack a #3 Metolius tcu.

Does the insanity never end? Your just flirting with death dude.


wonderwoman
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Mar 21, 2012, 2:03 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
ianwatson wrote:
I plan to go to REI today and get a orange Metolius
mini to rack a #3 Metolius tcu.

Does the insanity never end? Your just flirting with death dude.

Perhaps he will be safe if he avoids using the gear at Smith Rock?


curt


Mar 21, 2012, 3:07 PM
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Clmbbend wrote:
A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe.

Clmbbend

A new poster failed in the Gear Heads forum at rockclimbing.com. He is being analyzed in said forum to identify defect. No obvious reason for failure. Most likely ridicule to follow. Butt-hurt issue appears at fault. Minor injury to ego suspected. Obviously rockclimbing.com had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and other posters. Any further info please post here. Specific reason for hurt butt not told to me. Climb Safe.

Curt


marc801


Mar 21, 2012, 4:06 PM
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curt wrote:
Clmbbend wrote:
A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe.

Clmbbend

A new poster failed in the Gear Heads forum at rockclimbing.com. He is being analyzed in said forum to identify defect. No obvious reason for failure. Most likely ridicule to follow. Butt-hurt issue appears at fault. Minor injury to ego suspected. Obviously rockclimbing.com had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and other posters. Any further info please post here. Specific reason for hurt butt not told to me. Climb Safe.

Curt
Excellent!!!


surfstar


Mar 21, 2012, 8:16 PM
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Climbbend - get bent!

All your biners are belong to me.


marc801


Mar 21, 2012, 11:20 PM
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surfstar wrote:
Climbbend - get bent!
He or she may have. From their profile:
Registered: Mar 17, 2012, 9:50 PM
Last Logon: Mar 17, 2012, 9:52 PM
Posts: 1 (0.2 per day)


bill413


Mar 22, 2012, 6:30 AM
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curt - thank you for bringing this to our attention. Naturally, it is of concern to the whole community. Do we expect a recall on new posters, or egos, to be issued?


kachoong


Mar 22, 2012, 7:46 AM
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IPissonurproj wrote:
Here's what happened:

Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks.

Oh come on... 10 one star ratings for this?

I laffed.


Tnutts


Mar 22, 2012, 2:12 PM
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To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.


edge


Mar 22, 2012, 3:09 PM
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Tnutts wrote:
To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.
Can we expect a complete write-up at some point, or will small details continue to be posted each week in this thread?


moose_droppings


Mar 22, 2012, 3:42 PM
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Tnutts wrote:
To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.

Whew, that was close.

No gear for sale here, everybody move along.


Tnutts


Mar 22, 2012, 3:56 PM
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This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept.


Gmburns2000


Mar 22, 2012, 4:09 PM
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Tnutts wrote:
This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept.

two posts on this site (both in this thread). the OP has one.

hmmmm...


6pacfershur


Mar 22, 2012, 6:26 PM
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obviously a disinformation campaign designed to boost BD sales....


shockabuku


Mar 22, 2012, 7:49 PM
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Tnutts wrote:
This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept.

Is this conclusion based on an examination of the physical evidence? And if so, by who?


ianwatson


Mar 23, 2012, 9:10 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
Tnutts wrote:
To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.

Whew, that was close.

No gear for sale here, everybody move along.


For sale 8 mad rock light biners only used on draws for ropeside. Not a ton of use i work to much.


Partner j_ung


Mar 23, 2012, 9:22 AM
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Tnutts wrote:
This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept.

In other words, there is no defective gear involved in this incident.


abrock5


Mar 23, 2012, 10:16 AM
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So all Metolius gear kills people now? With all of this faulty gear out there, the safest way to climb these days is to free solo. Honnold's gear has never failed him on a free ascent.


(This post was edited by abrock5 on Mar 23, 2012, 10:19 AM)


shockabuku


Mar 23, 2012, 10:21 AM
Post #37 of 42 (1415 views)
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Re: [abrock5] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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abrock5 wrote:
So all Metolius gear kills people now? With all of this faulty gear out there, the safest way to climb these days is to free solo. Honnold's gear has never failed him on his free assents.

Yes, but what about during his climbing?


bill413


Mar 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #38 of 42 (1403 views)
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Re: [abrock5] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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abrock5 wrote:
So all Metolius gear kills people now?

No, since moose_droppings still has a car, Metolius is safe.


abrock5


Mar 24, 2012, 5:26 AM
Post #39 of 42 (1308 views)
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Re: [shockabuku] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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I can't believe you caught that. I read my post IMMEDIATELY after I posted it and then edited the misspell! Stupid iPad keyboard.


shockabuku


Mar 24, 2012, 10:31 AM
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Re: [abrock5] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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abrock5 wrote:
I can't believe you caught that. I read my post IMMEDIATELY after I posted it and then edited the misspell! Stupid iPad keyboard.

It was funny because I saw it, quoted it, but the quote was already the corrected version and I had to back up the page to copy/paste the original version into my post.Wink


billcoe_


Apr 12, 2012, 8:43 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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MAD ROCK YOU DAY!???? HOW ARE WE GOING TO BLAME REI NOW? SHIT, THAT SCREWS IT ALL UP.

Hope that the climber is OK, any info on that?


surfstar


Apr 13, 2012, 7:43 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to]
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I don't see what all the commotion is about - if its really from REI, no problemo - they'll take anything on return.

Next garage sale with have a bloody, broken, 'biner for 80% off.


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