 |

Clmbbend
Mar 17, 2012, 10:05 PM
Post #1 of 42
(6275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2012
Posts: 1
|
A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe. Clmbbend
|
|
|
 |
 |

marc801
Mar 17, 2012, 11:38 PM
Post #2 of 42
(6242 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398
|
Clmbbend wrote: A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe. Which basically makes this post pointless. For all we know this could be a total fabrication. Why even mention REI?
|
|
|
 |
 |

shotwell
Mar 18, 2012, 10:01 AM
Post #4 of 42
(6074 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 341
|
This is as irresponsible as the first post. We have no useful information here.
|
|
|
 |
 |

bill413
Mar 19, 2012, 7:04 AM
Post #5 of 42
(5909 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
Searching Google for In reply to: "smith rock" accident restricted to updates in the past week (as of 3/19/12) yields three pages of results, none of which indicate a climbing accident this week; except for the two hits referring to this thread (one here, one from an aggregator that's picked up this thread). I note that the OP registered today, this was his first post. Someone hating on REI?
|
|
|
 |
 |

bearbreeder
Mar 19, 2012, 9:26 AM
Post #6 of 42
(5790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1844
|
im not aware of any carabiner that REI sells that another retailer doesnt also carry ... enuff saif
|
|
|
 |
 |

majid_sabet
Mar 19, 2012, 10:09 AM
Post #7 of 42
(5748 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8180
|
what does failure means ? broken gate, crack biner ? a worthless post
|
|
|
 |
 |

billcoe_
Mar 19, 2012, 2:54 PM
Post #9 of 42
(5561 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4592
|
Clmberbend doesn't say it's an REI biner. Could be a Black Diamond that was purchased at REI. Should we start a list of all the carabiners REI sells so that we can start speculating on which one it was that failed. I'm sure, from the first post, that it wasn't due to the biner being improperly loaded, cause he says there was "No obvoius reason for failure." "failed". Not - someone fell on it and it broke, it could have just been sitting there on the ground and fell apart on it's own? I'll start: Omega Pacific Black Diamond Camp Mammut Mad Rock Metolius Petzl.....wait, back up. Dude said that it was "being tested at a local climbing manufacturer". Smith? There's only one. That has to be Metolius. So thus, we can continue the speculation that all Metolius carabiners are bad and thus need to be recalled or we will all die. That's what I get out of it. But what we clearly need is 20 more pages of supposition, incomplete information and wild assed guesses till this thread plays out. Regards
|
|
|
 |
 |

bill413
Mar 20, 2012, 6:07 AM
Post #10 of 42
(5398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
Ok, I'll help fill this up with more speculation. Doesn't have to be Metolius - they could have been testing a competitor's biner.
|
|
|
 |
 |

marc801
Mar 20, 2012, 6:44 AM
Post #11 of 42
(5380 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398
|
billcoe_ wrote: But what we clearly need is 20 more pages of supposition, incomplete information and wild assed guesses till this thread plays out. Not really. The OP is either a troll or is massively butt-hurt over REI. In either case, until we get more details, for now we can only surmise that the OP is a bit of an ass. [Edit to convert pre-coffee post to English]
(This post was edited by marc801 on Mar 20, 2012, 7:44 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

dynosore
Mar 20, 2012, 7:28 AM
Post #12 of 42
(5345 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1738
|
Clmbbend wrote: A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe. Clmbbend You don't know the brand or model, so I think we can assume you've not even seen said item. Maybe the biner was broken by that axe you seem to be grinding against REI?
|
|
|
 |
 |

IPissonurproj
Mar 20, 2012, 9:11 AM
Post #13 of 42
(5274 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2009
Posts: 16
|
Here's what happened: Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks.
|
|
|
 |
 |

billcoe_
Mar 20, 2012, 9:08 PM
Post #14 of 42
(5102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4592
|
IPissonurproj wrote: Here's what happened: Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks. LOL, for the win!
|
|
|
 |
 |

moose_droppings
Mar 20, 2012, 10:48 PM
Post #15 of 42
(5073 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3298
|
billcoe_ wrote: So thus, we can continue the speculation that all Metolius carabiners are bad and thus need to be recalled or we will all die. For sale: All my Metolius biners. Just to be safe: All my Metolius cams, slings, nut tool, harnesses, gear slings. Also for sale: All pieces of fallen sky that have landed near any Metolius gear. All gear I have that starts with a "M". So.......is BD's stuff still OK? Sale pending.
|
|
|
 |
 |

bill413
Mar 21, 2012, 6:29 AM
Post #16 of 42
(5012 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
moose_droppings wrote: billcoe_ wrote: So thus, we can continue the speculation that all Metolius carabiners are bad and thus need to be recalled or we will all die. For sale: All my Metolius biners. Just to be safe: All my Metolius cams, slings, nut tool, harnesses, gear slings. Also for sale: All pieces of fallen sky that have landed near any Metolius gear. All gear I have that starts with a "M". So.......is BD's stuff still OK? Sale pending. Not if it's been on the same rack as your Metolius stuff.
|
|
|
 |
 |

moose_droppings
Mar 21, 2012, 7:44 AM
Post #17 of 42
(4968 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3298
|
bill413 wrote: Not if it's been on the same rack as your Metolius stuff. Entire rack for sale. 2 cars for sale: Low miles. Only used to carry me and my Metolius gear a few times.
|
|
|
 |
 |

ianwatson
Mar 21, 2012, 7:54 AM
Post #18 of 42
(4958 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 63
|
I plan to go to REI today and get a orange Metolius mini to rack a #3 Metolius tcu.
(This post was edited by ianwatson on Mar 21, 2012, 7:56 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

moose_droppings
Mar 21, 2012, 1:53 PM
Post #19 of 42
(4852 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3298
|
ianwatson wrote: I plan to go to REI today and get a orange Metolius mini to rack a #3 Metolius tcu. Does the insanity never end? Your just flirting with death dude.
|
|
|
 |
 |

wonderwoman
Moderator
Mar 21, 2012, 2:03 PM
Post #20 of 42
(4837 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4240
|
moose_droppings wrote: ianwatson wrote: I plan to go to REI today and get a orange Metolius mini to rack a #3 Metolius tcu. Does the insanity never end? Your just flirting with death dude. Perhaps he will be safe if he avoids using the gear at Smith Rock?
|
|
|
 |
 |

curt
Mar 21, 2012, 3:07 PM
Post #21 of 42
(4792 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18043
|
Clmbbend wrote: A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe. Clmbbend A new poster failed in the Gear Heads forum at rockclimbing.com. He is being analyzed in said forum to identify defect. No obvious reason for failure. Most likely ridicule to follow. Butt-hurt issue appears at fault. Minor injury to ego suspected. Obviously rockclimbing.com had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and other posters. Any further info please post here. Specific reason for hurt butt not told to me. Climb Safe. Curt
|
|
|
 |
 |

marc801
Mar 21, 2012, 4:06 PM
Post #22 of 42
(4755 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398
|
curt wrote: Clmbbend wrote: A carabiner sold at REI failed at Smith Rock this week. Its was being tested at a local climbing manufacturer for defect. No obvoius reason for failure. Most likely recall to follow. Material issue seems at fault. Minor injury reported. Obviously REI had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and customers. Any further info please post here . Brand and model not told to me. Climb Safe. Clmbbend A new poster failed in the Gear Heads forum at rockclimbing.com. He is being analyzed in said forum to identify defect. No obvious reason for failure. Most likely ridicule to follow. Butt-hurt issue appears at fault. Minor injury to ego suspected. Obviously rockclimbing.com had nothing to do with accident but surely will be in touch with users and other posters. Any further info please post here. Specific reason for hurt butt not told to me. Climb Safe. Curt Excellent!!!
|
|
|
 |
 |

surfstar
Mar 21, 2012, 8:16 PM
Post #23 of 42
(4646 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2011
Posts: 205
|
Climbbend - get bent! All your biners are belong to me.
|
|
|
 |
 |

marc801
Mar 21, 2012, 11:20 PM
Post #24 of 42
(4593 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398
|
surfstar wrote: Climbbend - get bent! He or she may have. From their profile: Registered: Mar 17, 2012, 9:50 PM Last Logon: Mar 17, 2012, 9:52 PM Posts: 1 (0.2 per day)
|
|
|
 |
 |

bill413
Mar 22, 2012, 6:30 AM
Post #25 of 42
(4549 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
curt - thank you for bringing this to our attention. Naturally, it is of concern to the whole community. Do we expect a recall on new posters, or egos, to be issued?
|
|
|
 |
 |

kachoong
Mar 22, 2012, 7:46 AM
Post #26 of 42
(1736 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
IPissonurproj wrote: Here's what happened: Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks. Oh come on... 10 one star ratings for this? I laffed.
|
|
|
 |
 |

Tnutts
Mar 22, 2012, 2:12 PM
Post #27 of 42
(1678 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2012
Posts: 2
|
To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.
|
|
|
 |
 |

edge
Mar 22, 2012, 3:09 PM
Post #28 of 42
(1637 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8824
|
Tnutts wrote: To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock. Can we expect a complete write-up at some point, or will small details continue to be posted each week in this thread?
|
|
|
 |
 |

moose_droppings
Mar 22, 2012, 3:42 PM
Post #29 of 42
(1613 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3298
|
Tnutts wrote: To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock. Whew, that was close. No gear for sale here, everybody move along.
|
|
|
 |
 |

Tnutts
Mar 22, 2012, 3:56 PM
Post #30 of 42
(1602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2012
Posts: 2
|
This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept.
|
|
|
 |
 |

Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2012, 4:09 PM
Post #31 of 42
(1591 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 14386
|
Tnutts wrote: This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept. two posts on this site (both in this thread). the OP has one. hmmmm...
|
|
|
 |
 |

6pacfershur
Mar 22, 2012, 6:26 PM
Post #32 of 42
(1548 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2010
Posts: 180
|
obviously a disinformation campaign designed to boost BD sales....
|
|
|
 |
 |

shockabuku
Mar 22, 2012, 7:49 PM
Post #33 of 42
(1519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4762
|
Tnutts wrote: This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept. Is this conclusion based on an examination of the physical evidence? And if so, by who?
|
|
|
 |
 |

ianwatson
Mar 23, 2012, 9:10 AM
Post #34 of 42
(1454 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 63
|
moose_droppings wrote: Tnutts wrote: To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock. Whew, that was close. No gear for sale here, everybody move along. For sale 8 mad rock light biners only used on draws for ropeside. Not a ton of use i work to much.
|
|
|
 |
 |

abrock5
Mar 23, 2012, 10:16 AM
Post #36 of 42
(1419 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 24
|
So all Metolius gear kills people now? With all of this faulty gear out there, the safest way to climb these days is to free solo. Honnold's gear has never failed him on a free ascent.
(This post was edited by abrock5 on Mar 23, 2012, 10:19 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

shockabuku
Mar 23, 2012, 10:21 AM
Post #37 of 42
(1415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4762
|
abrock5 wrote: So all Metolius gear kills people now? With all of this faulty gear out there, the safest way to climb these days is to free solo. Honnold's gear has never failed him on his free assents. Yes, but what about during his climbing?
|
|
|
 |
 |

bill413
Mar 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #38 of 42
(1403 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
abrock5 wrote: So all Metolius gear kills people now? No, since moose_droppings still has a car, Metolius is safe.
|
|
|
 |
 |

abrock5
Mar 24, 2012, 5:26 AM
Post #39 of 42
(1308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 24
|
I can't believe you caught that. I read my post IMMEDIATELY after I posted it and then edited the misspell! Stupid iPad keyboard.
|
|
|
 |
 |

billcoe_
Apr 12, 2012, 8:43 PM
Post #41 of 42
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4592
|
MAD ROCK YOU DAY!???? HOW ARE WE GOING TO BLAME REI NOW? SHIT, THAT SCREWS IT ALL UP. Hope that the climber is OK, any info on that?
|
|
|
 |
 |

surfstar
Apr 13, 2012, 7:43 AM
Post #42 of 42
(820 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2011
Posts: 205
|
I don't see what all the commotion is about - if its really from REI, no problemo - they'll take anything on return. Next garage sale with have a bloody, broken, 'biner for 80% off.
|
|
|
 |
|
|