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How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope
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JaysonRohr


Mar 19, 2012, 12:14 PM
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How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope
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I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain.


Rudmin


Mar 19, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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Possible answers:
-the route wanders and the rappel is straight down
-rope stretch
-the place that you come down from the rappel is higher ground than where the climb starts
-125 ft is a lie
-you don't


njrox


Mar 19, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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JaysonRohr wrote:
I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain.

Repel? Oh, you mean "Rappel". Tongue Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

1 60m rope ain't gonna do it. Not unless you use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur". So they must mean that it's a two-rope rappel (with a EuroDeathKnot).


(This post was edited by njrox on Mar 19, 2012, 12:23 PM)


JaysonRohr


Mar 19, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Re: [njrox] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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njrox wrote:
JaysonRohr wrote:
I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain.

Repel? Oh, you mean "Rappel". Tongue Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

1 60m rope ain't gonna do it. Not unless you use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur". So they must mean that it's a two-rope rappel (with a EuroDeathKnot).

they said It could be done single rope but how do you retrieve the rope from a station like that without tying the rope to make it fixed rappel***** lol


njrox


Mar 19, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur"

Basically, it's a pull-cord about as long as the length of your rappel.

To be honest, the Reepschnur is kinda extreme. That's a lot of cord to buy and to carry. Might as well bring a 2nd rope (unless it's a necessity to be carrying the cord because you're on a light-weight expedition or something). Just EDK two ropes and be on your way.


shimanilami


Mar 19, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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Rudmin wrote:
Possible answers:
-the route wanders and the rappel is straight down
-rope stretch
-the place that you come down from the rappel is higher ground than where the climb starts
-125 ft is a lie
-you don't

This.^^^

Or you could have the belayer lower the climber (like a normal person).


Partner drector


Mar 19, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Or you could have the belayer lower the climber (like a normal person).

Lowering someone uses the same amount of rope as rappelling on that same rope doubled through the anchors. If you cannot rap the route then you cannot lower someone on it either.

The route, if the climb is straight up 125 feet, would require a 76 meter rope to rap or lower off it.

Dave


edge


Mar 19, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
Possible answers:
-the route wanders and the rappel is straight down
-rope stretch
-the place that you come down from the rappel is higher ground than where the climb starts
-125 ft is a lie
-you don't

This.^^^

Or you could have the belayer lower the climber (like a normal person).

I also agree with Rudmin's post. Good answer.

Not saying it is the case here, but it would be possible if the route did wander or was severely overhung that the one rope descent would only work if the rope was pulled through the protection to allow a straight shot to the bottom without one side weaving through all the gear.


Kyleanderson415


Mar 19, 2012, 1:33 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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It is possible that there is an intermediate anchor. This would require only one 60m, with two rappels. That would be the only scenario that would make sense to me (unless the route wanders a lot like others mentioned).


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Mar 19, 2012, 2:16 PM
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Re: [Kyleanderson415] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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It's most likely an issue of the guidebook misstating the actual height of the climb. Anyone who has looked into the Indian Creek guidebook knows that there are numerous "120-140 foot routes" that are quite possible to lower off of with a single 70m.


jae8908


Mar 19, 2012, 2:21 PM
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Re: [camhead] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
It's most likely an issue of the guidebook misstating the actual height of the climb. Anyone who has looked into the Indian Creek guidebook knows that there are numerous "120-140 foot routes" that are quite possible to lower off of with a single 70m.
^this. probably a misprint in height


JaysonRohr


Mar 19, 2012, 3:24 PM
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Re: [jae8908] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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I really appreciate you guys sorting this out I think the answer was it isn't accually 125 ft I was talking about the red rock canyon route guide for colorado. Cheap route guide lol
Thanks everyone


vinnie83


Mar 19, 2012, 4:37 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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Which route?


jeepnphreak


Mar 25, 2012, 4:48 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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JaysonRohr wrote:
I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain.


And my 2 cents, after the wonderful awnsers above that all have a good opitions provided. Is find some one that has climb your route in question and get a bit of info on what the descent is like.

and also what rout is it? I am wondering myself.


majid_sabet


Mar 25, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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use midjet SOL rap kit and you could rap 300 feet + on 60 meter rope


YouWill787


Apr 13, 2012, 8:32 AM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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I wondered about the same thing in RRCOS. I was seeing some of the routes, especially on Coyote Wall were showing as being over 100 feet. One day I just tried one. From my experience now, (most of the time) the route won't be impossible. You might have to really stretch to get your foot on the ground, or you might be able to get down to a ledge within 5 feet of the ground. Once you are within a few feet of the ground on a single pitch climb, I consider that safe (especially on slab, just slide down on your butt the rest of the way). Since then I have encountered this on a few climbs outside of the Springs, like Clear Creek canyon.


herites


Apr 13, 2012, 9:01 AM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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I grab the rope, swing it around and try to shoo that 125 feet away.

125 feet = /sixty/two and a half man


Rudmin


Apr 13, 2012, 2:30 PM
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Re: [YouWill787] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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YouWill787 wrote:
I wondered about the same thing in RRCOS. I was seeing some of the routes, especially on Coyote Wall were showing as being over 100 feet. One day I just tried one. From my experience now, (most of the time) the route won't be impossible. You might have to really stretch to get your foot on the ground, or you might be able to get down to a ledge within 5 feet of the ground. Once you are within a few feet of the ground on a single pitch climb, I consider that safe (especially on slab, just slide down on your butt the rest of the way). Since then I have encountered this on a few climbs outside of the Springs, like Clear Creek canyon.

One trick you can do to drop those last few feet is spin around a few times while on rappel and then slip one strand through the rappel device. The friction of the rope wrapping around itself slows you down, but it may be more likely to tangle when you pull the rope. Obviously don't try this from seriously dangerous heights.


Partner j_ung


Apr 14, 2012, 1:06 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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Rudmin wrote:
YouWill787 wrote:
I wondered about the same thing in RRCOS. I was seeing some of the routes, especially on Coyote Wall were showing as being over 100 feet. One day I just tried one. From my experience now, (most of the time) the route won't be impossible. You might have to really stretch to get your foot on the ground, or you might be able to get down to a ledge within 5 feet of the ground. Once you are within a few feet of the ground on a single pitch climb, I consider that safe (especially on slab, just slide down on your butt the rest of the way). Since then I have encountered this on a few climbs outside of the Springs, like Clear Creek canyon.

One trick you can do to drop those last few feet is spin around a few times while on rappel and then slip one strand through the rappel device. The friction of the rope wrapping around itself slows you down, but it may be more likely to tangle when you pull the rope. Obviously don't try this from seriously dangerous heights.

I understand the theory here, but yikes. No thank you. I'd rather leave gear at an anchor midway or even down climb the last bits unroped.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Apr 14, 2012, 1:08 PM)


stagg54


Apr 14, 2012, 3:59 PM
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Re: [njrox] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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njrox wrote:
use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur"

Basically, it's a pull-cord about as long as the length of your rappel.

To be honest, the Reepschnur is kinda extreme. That's a lot of cord to buy and to carry. Might as well bring a 2nd rope (unless it's a necessity to be carrying the cord because you're on a light-weight expedition or something). Just EDK two ropes and be on your way.

forget the Reepschnur, get a fifi and some p-cord.


wmgr1950


Apr 26, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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Just curious. Never saw a response to why you would want to rap off a route you were just belayed on. It's the most dangerous part of climbing and, no matter how incredibly cool it is to do, it should be avoided in most cases where there is an obvious alternative.
Also, it should be noted that if you are unsure of the distance to the deck, or if you can't see the ends of thee rope, tie a safety figure eight in the end.
Wes


JAB


Apr 26, 2012, 4:11 AM
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Re: [wmgr1950] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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wmgr1950 wrote:
Just curious. Never saw a response to why you would want to rap off a route you were just belayed on. It's the most dangerous part of climbing and, no matter how incredibly cool it is to do, it should be avoided in most cases where there is an obvious alternative.
Also, it should be noted that if you are unsure of the distance to the deck, or if you can't see the ends of thee rope, tie a safety figure eight in the end.
Wes

Because that was not the question. Even though the OP used the word "Repel" [sic], everybody assumed he simply meant "how do you get down". without particularly meaning lower or rappell. So (thank god) this didn't end up into another lower or rappell discussion.


jgardner7


Nov 30, 2012, 10:16 AM
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Re: [JaysonRohr] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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You could lower one end of the rope until it hits the ground and on the side that is short tie an alpine butterfly and use a carabiner to attach it to the long end. This will give you a way to get down on one end of the rope. Once you get to the bottom of the short end begin tying slings or a cordelette to the end of the line until you reach the ground. Now you should be able to pull the rope through. This method is featured in climbing magazine november 2012 edition.


gunkiemike


Nov 30, 2012, 4:46 PM
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jgardner7 wrote:
You could lower one end of the rope until it hits the ground and on the side that is short tie an alpine butterfly and use a carabiner to attach it to the long end. This will give you a way to get down on one end of the rope. Once you get to the bottom of the short end begin tying slings or a cordelette to the end of the line until you reach the ground. Now you should be able to pull the rope through. This method is featured in climbing magazine november 2012 edition.

Yea, right. Like a sport climber's going to have 50 feet of slings with them.

Just bring a second rope to the crag.

Oh, and Rudmin - do you realize that you just suggested IN THE BEGINNERS FORUM that the climber intentionally rap off the end of his/her rope.


(This post was edited by gunkiemike on Nov 30, 2012, 4:56 PM)


dan2see


Dec 1, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Re: [gunkiemike] How do you repel 125 feet with 60m rope [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
...
Just bring a second rope to the crag.

Oh, and Rudmin - do you realize that you just suggested IN THE BEGINNERS FORUM that the climber intentionally rap off the end of his/her rope.

Absolutely right! It's easy to do this with two ropes, but it's slightly technical, and it's not for beginners.

So my advice to the OP is: Find another route that you can set-up easily and do safely, with your regular rope.

Then come back next year, and re-evaluate the situation.

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