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climbingaggie03


Apr 27, 2012, 7:32 PM
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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You know, maybe I'm not trying hard enough, but in over 15 years of climbing, the only time I've ever had a cam pop was on the S Face of Wash column. I was bounce testing a red Camalot in a kind of flaring placement.

I've taken 30-40 foot falls on my gear and never had it pull.


rightarmbad


Apr 27, 2012, 11:10 PM
Post #152 of 161 (1426 views)
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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Don't know about only takes cams, there looks to be plenty of nut placements there.......


healyje


Apr 28, 2012, 12:34 AM
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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I'm a long-time sandstone and basalt climber there's nothing about any of that I wouldn't hesitate to lead on gear. And I'm guessing these aren't big climbs either so if it came down to doubling up some of your pro I don't see the big deal (which you should be doing regardless in some of that rock).

And of those four cams that failed, how many did you clip directly into the cam biner and how many were slung?


USnavy


Apr 28, 2012, 3:58 AM
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Re: [healyje] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
I'm a long-time sandstone and basalt climber there's nothing about any of that I wouldn't hesitate to lead on gear. And I'm guessing these aren't big climbs either so if it came down to doubling up some of your pro I don't see the big deal (which you should be doing regardless in some of that rock).

And of those four cams that failed, how many did you clip directly into the cam biner and how many were slung?
I never said its not leadable on gear, I simply said its tricky and placements can pull. I have had placements pull here that have held time and time again everywhere else. In Yosemite, I cant tell you how many standard C1 placements I just threw in, clipped the aider to, and jumped right onto the piece. If its a splitter crack there is generally no reason to test the piece. I have done that hundreds of times in Yosemite without issue. However, if I try that here, I am screwed. I have had a number of placements pull on a bounce test in Hawaii basalt that would hold a truck if placed the same way in Yosemite granite. The failure mode is always one of two things. The cam just slides down the placement, as the lobes skid on the rock, or the rock flakes apart and the cam marble balls out.

I should post some pics of some of the placements I have ripped on a bounce test; placements that look pretty textbook. I'll try to see if I can get that done tomorrow.


tradmanclimbs


Apr 28, 2012, 4:25 AM
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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Its always easy to monday moring QB someone on the internet. no matter what a photo looks like it is not the same as being there in person.


healyje


Apr 28, 2012, 4:30 AM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
Its always easy to monday moring QB someone on the internet. no matter what a photo looks like it is not the same as being there in person.

Lived there, know the rock, and climb basalt every day I go out here. I know what I'm looking at in the pictures.


USnavy


Apr 28, 2012, 5:16 AM
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Re: [healyje] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
tradmanclimbs wrote:
Its always easy to monday moring QB someone on the internet. no matter what a photo looks like it is not the same as being there in person.

Lived there, know the rock, and climb basalt every day I go out here. I know what I'm looking at in the pictures.
Just eight hours ago you said "Wait, let me stop you right there - having lived in hawaii I can testify there are no rocks there of any kind. You shouldn't be trying to use cams or bolts, you should be hammering in snargs and warthogs." Anyway, basalt crags are extremely serial in nature, no two basalt crags are ever the same. Just within 100 feet of each other I can find basalt that is so soft I can crush it in my hand and I can find basalt that is stronger than the strongest concrete known to man. It all depends on the crag. I will try to post some pics of the actual placements. That will remove all of the guess work and confirm what I have been trying to say all along; a solid looking placement is not guaranteed to actually hold a fall, it can pull if the rock is too smooth or if it is flaky. But that has already been proved by Metolius.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 28, 2012, 5:38 AM)


healyje


Apr 28, 2012, 8:47 AM
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
healyje wrote:
tradmanclimbs wrote:
Its always easy to monday moring QB someone on the internet. no matter what a photo looks like it is not the same as being there in person.

Lived there, know the rock, and climb basalt every day I go out here. I know what I'm looking at in the pictures.
Just eight hours ago you said "Wait, let me stop you right there - having lived in hawaii I can testify there are no rocks there of any kind. You shouldn't be trying to use cams or bolts, you should be hammering in snargs and warthogs."

That would humor...


climbingaggie03


Apr 28, 2012, 9:13 AM
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Re: [healyje] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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So not to be on topic with the OP, but has anybody seen this thread on MP?

http://www.mountainproject.com/...nk-cams/107576613__1

dude broke his trigger wires and called it a cam failure.


Partner robdotcalm


Apr 28, 2012, 10:15 AM
Post #160 of 161 (1343 views)
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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USN:

Interesting post with those pictures of the cracks and the unusual nature of the rock with its two layers.

rob.clam


johnwesely


Apr 28, 2012, 1:43 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] link cam broken when fallen on [In reply to]
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This thread really has taken a turn for the boring though.

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