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USnavy
Apr 28, 2012, 4:08 PM
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I was rummaging through some of the climbing photos I have taken in the past and across something interesting. If I remember correctly, this is her first time leading:
Note the super hard catch being given by the belayer...
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climbingaggie03
Apr 28, 2012, 5:36 PM
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Nice, I was climbing in moab last week and there was a girl (new leader?) leading slabby climb a bit down the wall from me. She came off and I think she kind of froze because she just slid down the slab on her hip. It looked ugly, she was scraped, but not hurt too bad. It was one of the ugliest falls I've seen in a long time.
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sungam
Apr 29, 2012, 4:04 AM
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Ouch. Is she okay?
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Couloirman
Apr 29, 2012, 6:45 AM
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One of the many reasons why all of us should wear helmets when leading regardless of how cool or uncool we think we look/are.
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ClimbClimb
Apr 29, 2012, 7:22 AM
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USnavy wrote: I was rummaging through some of the climbing photos I have taken in the past and across something interesting. If I remember correctly, this is her first time leading: Note the super hard catch being given by the belayer...
A helmet would've been nice.
it's hard to judge the topography of the route or the distances, so I guess you'd know better about the quality of the catch. But it seems she didn't get her feet out of the way and was grabbing at things (including gear) on the way down, thereby getting inverted. Tough to resist this urge.
Generally, I'm against falling. 
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shotwell
Apr 29, 2012, 7:32 AM
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ClimbClimb wrote: USnavy wrote: I was rummaging through some of the climbing photos I have taken in the past and across something interesting. If I remember correctly, this is her first time leading: Note the super hard catch being given by the belayer... A helmet would've been nice. it's hard to judge the topography of the route or the distances, so I guess you'd know better about the quality of the catch. But it seems she didn't get her feet out of the way and was grabbing at things (including gear) on the way down, thereby getting inverted. Tough to resist this urge. Generally, I'm against falling.
In sport climbing?
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6pacfershur
Apr 29, 2012, 6:05 PM
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ive had harder....catches that is
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 30, 2012, 7:27 AM
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USnavy wrote: I was rummaging through some of the climbing photos I have taken in the past and across something interesting. If I remember correctly, this is her first time leading: Note the super hard catch being given by the belayer... [img]http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9976/img4922n.jpg[/img] [img]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4825/img4923w.jpg[/img] [img]http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9441/img4924q.jpg[/img] [img]http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2095/img4925r.jpg[/img] [img]http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/7671/img4927v.jpg[/img] [img]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4320/img4928g.jpg[/img] [img]http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1179/img4929x.jpg[/img] [img]http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3498/img4930b.jpg[/img]
You can't really tell from still photos how "hard" a catch is. Regardless, a hard catch does not cause someone to invert. The climbers job when falling is to keep him or herself upright.
Josh
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wonderwoman
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Apr 30, 2012, 7:41 AM
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sungam wrote: Ouch. Is she okay?
^^^ Well????
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gunkiemike
Apr 30, 2012, 5:03 PM
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Doesn't look right to me. In pic #5, she has fallen past what looks TO ME like a ledge to her left. Then in the next shots she's clearly above it, with first her right leg, then both legs on that shelf. This suggests some serious rebound. But the rotation of her torso is all whack. Look at the relative position of the rope and her body in the last three shots. No way can the rope pulling on her side like that rotate her body upward as seen in the last two pics. I'm betting we've all been trolled.
Even if I'm misjudging the distance to that shelf and the "rebound" or lack thereof, there's no way that either the rope tension or her body's momentum can produce the torso rotation seen in those last two pics.
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curt
Apr 30, 2012, 5:27 PM
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Couloirman wrote: One of the many reasons why all of us should wear helmets when leading regardless of how cool or uncool we think we look/are.
Really? It looks to me as though a chest or body harness would have been far more useful in this case.
Curt
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USnavy
Apr 30, 2012, 5:44 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: I'm betting we've all been trolled.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 30, 2012, 5:46 PM)
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sungam
May 1, 2012, 1:55 AM
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So, is she okay?
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USnavy
May 1, 2012, 1:59 AM
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Yes, she was never injured.
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sungam
May 1, 2012, 3:11 AM
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Good to hear. Just wanted to make sure. :)
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tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 3:52 AM
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What is this stupid shit about a hard catch? how could we possibly tell from still photos if a catch was hard or soft? Without actually takeing the fall ourselfs we probobly can not accuratly proclaime that we would have done it any better? heck you could have pushed off, cleared everything, kept your feet under you and still smacked your head on a protrusion @ the end of the fall. Shit happens. Modern lids weigh not much more than a beenie hat. Wearing one is a good idea regardless of what the cool people say to the contrary..
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USnavy
May 1, 2012, 4:16 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: how could we I possibly tell from still photos if a catch was hard or soft?
-If a belayer is standing up before his climber falls, but then has his ass on the deck after she stops falling, that means it is ultra likely he gave the climber a hard catch. If he would have given her a properly executed soft catch he would be off the deck completely with that fall.
-If he had jumped to soften the fall, he would be directly under the first bolt, against the cliff, not 8' away from it.
-The most blatant detail that gives this away as a hard catch is the fact that he started out right next to the cliff, then when she stopped falling he was 8' back. Who the hell runs backwards to give a soft catch? This stuff is not rocket surgery, it is not that hard to figure out. Oh, and ugh, I got all of that information from looking at only two of the photos I listed.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 1, 2012, 4:37 AM)
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tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 4:58 AM
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they are awsome photos. if you took these great job. Other than that you are full of shit. I look down and see a belayer locked off catching a fall just like you are supposed to.
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USnavy
May 1, 2012, 6:04 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Other than that you are full of shit. I look down and see a belayer locked off catching a fall just like you are supposed to.
Step 1: Hold onto the brake side of the rope like a mofo.
Step 2: Just stand there.
Correct? I want to make sure I have this hard catch thing down pat. Or is it step 2 involves running backwards? See that's what happens when you are used to giving soft catches, you forget how to properly belay. Do you offer guiding services? Maybe I should learn this proper static belaying thing in person. Damn it, you know what, I was climbing with Randy Leavitt just a few weeks ago. I should have asked him how to substitute my clearly improper soft catch for a much harder and righteous static catch. I am surprised he dident say anything when I gave him a soft catch, I guess we both need to take a class from you.
Oh, and the photographs are shit, they are blurred like a mother. I had a 1/200 shutter speed and a 6.3 f-stop. That shit should have been at f/3.5 and 1/750 with 800 ISO, no polarizing filter, and +1/3 EV if possible. What a noob mistake.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 1, 2012, 6:39 AM)
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tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 6:45 AM
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Nice name drop  seriously it is just a still photo from above. Not even remotly close to being there or even a video. We can not accuratly tell what the weight differences are between the two climbers. The other end of the spectrum is the belayer getting yanked into the wall and getting dinged and letting go of the rope. Not going to bother name dropping as I am old enough to forget most of them but this whole soft catch thing is secondary to not decking. #1 the belayer needs to keep you off the deck and not short rope you into things or short you while you are climbing or clipping. After that it's all gravy. How you could possibly fault this belayer and somhow blame them for the climbers awkward fall is beyond me. Perhaps you simply need to feel superior to other climbers on the internet?
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tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 6:58 AM
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navy. I did re read the OP. you did take these photos. That is a very nice sequence. Well composed, good exposures, good focus. I just do not get your sarcasem twords the belayer and the insinuation that her messy looking fall was somehow the belayers fault? Seems like some need on your part to pass judgement and feel superior?
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tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 7:30 AM
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How about this for a thread title. Awsome fall sequence that I shot @ crag X?
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olderic
May 1, 2012, 8:00 AM
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There are very few situations where a "Stone Mountain Running Belay" (going backwards) to harden the catch is the right thing. There are very few situation where jumping up for all you are worth to soften the catch is the right thing. There are many situations where immediately locking off and attempting to hold your position is the right thing. There are many situations where intentionally giving a little is the right thing. There is no one size fits - its context specific. Reacting to the actual context is what separates the good belayers from the pack. Knowing what context you are dealing with is a start. Hint - is is not a case of trad v. sport - if you can even precisely define which is which (hint don't bother trying).
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tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 8:08 AM
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If i were to asses the belay in the series of falling photos we have up thread it looks like the belayer locked off and held their possition as best they could in what looks like a fairly decent fall. The leader's fall was arrested without injury. I give the belayer an A. YMMV
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