Just wondering - How many of you consider yourselves elite level climbers (better than the average climber).
-Nowadays, elite IMO is v12+, 5.13 trad, 5.14 sport. I am one. I use to post here but generally was torn apart and it wasn't any fun. Not super elite, but elite. I know i'll get some stick from people for the following questions but i understand that climbing is largely a skill based physical activity but i tend to see tremendously early specialisation in strength training in climbers that you don't really see in many other sports, in which athletes tend to develop a good all round base of strength first before specialising to the sport.
Couple questions for you elite level guys:
What's your training like and how do you believe it differs from lower level climbers and when do you recommend climbers start to specialise their training?
-When training for routes, I'll climb 2 on one off. After my day off I'll either boulder or do power training and my second day on I'll train endurance by climbing routes, working a project, or doing 4 x 4s in the gym. -
-When training for bouldering, I'll average climbing/training every other day... that's the average but it depends on how my body feels.... some times three days off... some times... 3 days on.
-I train power specifically about 3x/month. Currently, this consists of doing weighted doubles on a campus board and doing weighted one arm hangs on a hang board. In the past it also consisted of training on a systems board at home and training lockoffs on overhangs at the gym using various body postions/foot positions. Sometimes froggy or back step, sometimes one foot or two.
-The main thing i've noticed with lower level climbers is that they receive misinformation perpetuated by other beginners on forums that have no experience. I routinely see beginner/intermediate climbers using a campus board after bouldering for 3 hours. Which is useless or at least not close to optimal.
-Start doing some power training around v6/5.12-
What do you think separates climbing from other physical endeavours in terms of preparation and training?
-It's not a science, yet. The fear factor. It must be th emost physical sport there is. In otherwords, if one never did any other workout in their life, except whatever their sport is, who would put on the most muscle? I'd guess gymnasts are up there.
What mainstream (olympic) sport do you think closely matches the challenges, learning and performance of climbing and why? (I'm guessing gymnastics?)
Climbing like any physical activity requires a level of conditioning to reach elite level (which is specific) but what would you recommend to someone who is just starting out with little to no base of strength (e.g. finds pull ups impossible, can't do a push up)?
Climb alot. 4+ days/week...
Why do you think there is a large distaste about traditional strength training among the climbing community?