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climbingtrash


May 22, 2012, 5:41 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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iz teh PT?


climbingtrash


May 22, 2012, 5:41 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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wo0?!?


climbingtrash


May 22, 2012, 5:41 PM
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Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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mental pro


climbingtrash


May 22, 2012, 5:47 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:


Is this the Crucified or Life Returns?



Iz this teh hawtest hardman to evar dawn teh cover of a guide book?


climbingtrash


May 22, 2012, 5:53 PM
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whew, no mor tyme for teh BET. Bombz pictures of grateness coming soon.


camhead


May 22, 2012, 6:06 PM
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climbingtrash wrote:
SylviaSmile wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
SylviaSmile wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
drivel wrote:
cross posted from facespace:

weakend report: hands are destroyed. two dime-sized flappers, a couple of smaller punctures.

[for this weekend] project 5: dribble: 0. (blood: 5/5).
[3 on zaturday, 2 on zunday]

4 one-hang burns with no rest time, 1 time lowering off the crux in disgust when I fell. what are the stages of projecting again? effort, hope, dispair, resignation, sending? I think I'm in "dispair." I may have laid on the ground and cried the real tears Sunday. I don't think i'll be able to go into the gym this weekend, given the state my hands are in.


while I laid on the rock, staring up at the proj, leaking the real tearz, I threatened to break up with it. "I wish I knew how to quit you" style.

Some of the nearby collesium crue were commiserating with me, going "there there," and they laughed. "Nobody can break up with that one. You'll keep coming back."


Sending, like relationships, takes a lot of work and effort. You can't break up the first time you fight. Well, you can, but... you want to send, right?

We mostly had fun at Butcher's Branch. Tim sent Lost Souls 2nd go, then he and Norm left. I have no idea when they got to the crag, they are the be-there-at-6a.m. folks. Jeff and I were still doing the warm-ups when they left.

Jeff was super-nice, controlled his ground-exit-o-phobia, and hung the draws on Control. I struggled up it bolt-to-bolt, cursing my elbow and feeling weak and miserable, but decided that it was worth another go later.

Then we took a long break and spent a lot of time figuring out how serious was the head wound on some dude who flipped and smashed his head into the rock on the 5.10d(b?), the crappy one to the left of Greenpiece. Classic foot behind the rope thing, except he took an INTENTIONAL fall. Apparently belayer was yelling to him about the rope, and he thought he cleared his foot, but...

The entire back of his head was drenched in blood, but he was walking and talking and seemed fine. Eventually we washed off the blood, and found a gash over an inch long, and his buddies decided to take him to the hospital. None of them were feeling up to cleaning the draws off that 5.10 after seeing him flip, and for some reason the first thing they did was pull the rope, so Jeff led it and cleaned their gear. Then he decided that he was tired and done with climbing for the day.

I didn't use "for God's sake, it's only 5.10" line.

Instead I went back to Control, and sent it. Not quite sure how it happened, because the entire time I was zoned out, and not thinking of anything past one move at a time. It didn't feel like 5.12 at all, maybe 5.11a. Then I came back down and listened to a chorus of admiring gumbies who were really impressed with my impeccable technique and apparent ease and lack of grunting sounds. Ha! If only they were there earlier in the morning for my crybaby flailfest!

Maybe I need to have a second date with Apollo... Maybe my problem is that i wasn't giving him a second chance? Do you think he would double-date us, dribble? And really, that crimp on Apollo is way bigger than the crimps on Control...

You really have to wonder what these guys are thinking when they do a dangerous intentional fall. Are they really just hoping for the best? How about you use your brain, determine if the fall is safe, and then go? I mean really!! If you can't fall safe when you can dictate the fall, WTF is going to happen to you when you just fall?

Jesus fucking Christ, I don't understand the popularity of "practice falls." They make sense on, say, overhung rock, but like tick marks, projecting, and outspoken opinions, they just filter down to the lower ranks of gumbies until someone gets hurt.

I don't think it was a "practice "fall, from what I understood it was more of a

-dude, shit, I'm going to fall, you got me?
-dude, watch you foot, the rope!
-O.K, I'm falling, you got me?
-dude, the ROPE!!!!

SMASH!!!!!



The guys kept talking about how he ALWAYS wears helmet, but today he decided that he didn't need it. Like, shit, what a co-incidence! You really should wear helmet at all times!

And i kept thinking, no, really, you should just freaking not fall intentionally with the rope behind your leg.

I know I am going to be one of those people who compulsively wears the helmet at all times . . . stories like this just feed the impulse. It seems like it would be that one time that you're not wearing the helmet that you would take this kind of fall or some large-sized rock would fall from the crag onto your head or something. I'm sure he didn't MEAN to fall with the rope behind his leg!

I'm sure you didn't MEAN to post here. feel free to pretend like you didn't.

Hey, I am trying, but you are making it hard! Laugh

wut does one gay horse say to another gay horse??? Haaay git teh fuck owt!


What do gay horses eat?


























HORSE COCK!


camhead


May 22, 2012, 6:08 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/95/23/107529523_medium_d51238.jpg[/image]

Is this the Crucified or Life Returns?



Iz this teh hawtest hardman to evar dawn teh cover of a guide book?

Gneiss! Too bad your Sanjaya gloriez will soon be bulldosed down by Dave Pegg's franchize.


snoopy138


May 22, 2012, 6:48 PM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/95/23/107529523_medium_d51238.jpg[/image]

Is this the Crucified or Life Returns?

[image]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428002_10150629349462663_756407662_9288701_1974008491_n.jpg[/image]

Iz this teh hawtest hardman to evar dawn teh cover of a guide book?

Gneiss! Too bad your Sanjaya gloriez will soon be bulldosed down by Dave Pegg's franchize.

I have to say, Big Tony looks a lot better on the cover of the new Quarry guide than he does in that Maple Canyon shot.


camhead


May 23, 2012, 7:09 AM
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This movie actually looks kind of fun. I heard it described as "Idiocracy" meets "Falling Down."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yruArw21EGA

And directed by Bobcat Goldthwait!


climbingtrash


May 23, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:


Is this the Crucified or Life Returns?



Iz this teh hawtest hardman to evar dawn teh cover of a guide book?

Gneiss! Too bad your Sanjaya gloriez will soon be bulldosed down by Dave Pegg's franchize.

The Pegg doesn't even knoh how to franchiz.


dr_feelgood


May 23, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
drivel wrote:
cross posted from facespace:

weakend report: hands are destroyed. two dime-sized flappers, a couple of smaller punctures.

[for this weekend] project 5: dribble: 0. (blood: 5/5).
[3 on zaturday, 2 on zunday]

4 one-hang burns with no rest time, 1 time lowering off the crux in disgust when I fell. what are the stages of projecting again? effort, hope, dispair, resignation, sending? I think I'm in "dispair." I may have laid on the ground and cried the real tears Sunday. I don't think i'll be able to go into the gym this weekend, given the state my hands are in.


while I laid on the rock, staring up at the proj, leaking the real tearz, I threatened to break up with it. "I wish I knew how to quit you" style.

Some of the nearby collesium crue were commiserating with me, going "there there," and they laughed. "Nobody can break up with that one. You'll keep coming back."


Sending, like relationships, takes a lot of work and effort. You can't break up the first time you fight. Well, you can, but... you want to send, right?

We mostly had fun at Butcher's Branch. Tim sent Lost Souls 2nd go, then he and Norm left. I have no idea when they got to the crag, they are the be-there-at-6a.m. folks. Jeff and I were still doing the warm-ups when they left.

Jeff was super-nice, controlled his ground-exit-o-phobia, and hung the draws on Control. I struggled up it bolt-to-bolt, cursing my elbow and feeling weak and miserable, but decided that it was worth another go later.

Then we took a long break and spent a lot of time figuring out how serious was the head wound on some dude who flipped and smashed his head into the rock on the 5.10d(b?), the crappy one to the left of Greenpiece. Classic foot behind the rope thing, except he took an INTENTIONAL fall. Apparently belayer was yelling to him about the rope, and he thought he cleared his foot, but...

The entire back of his head was drenched in blood, but he was walking and talking and seemed fine. Eventually we washed off the blood, and found a gash over an inch long, and his buddies decided to take him to the hospital. None of them were feeling up to cleaning the draws off that 5.10 after seeing him flip, and for some reason the first thing they did was pull the rope, so Jeff led it and cleaned their gear. Then he decided that he was tired and done with climbing for the day.

I didn't use "for God's sake, it's only 5.10" line.

Instead I went back to Control, and sent it. Not quite sure how it happened, because the entire time I was zoned out, and not thinking of anything past one move at a time. It didn't feel like 5.12 at all, maybe 5.11a. Then I came back down and listened to a chorus of admiring gumbies who were really impressed with my impeccable technique and apparent ease and lack of grunting sounds. Ha! If only they were there earlier in the morning for my crybaby flailfest!

Maybe I need to have a second date with Apollo... Maybe my problem is that i wasn't giving him a second chance? Do you think he would double-date us, dribble? And really, that crimp on Apollo is way bigger than the crimps on Control...

You really have to wonder what these guys are thinking when they do a dangerous intentional fall. Are they really just hoping for the best? How about you use your brain, determine if the fall is safe, and then go? I mean really!! If you can't fall safe when you can dictate the fall, WTF is going to happen to you when you just fall?

Jesus fucking Christ, I don't understand the popularity of "practice falls." They make sense on, say, overhung rock, but like tick marks, projecting, and outspoken opinions, they just filter down to the lower ranks of gumbies until someone gets hurt.

I don't think it was a "practice "fall, from what I understood it was more of a

-dude, shit, I'm going to fall, you got me?
-dude, watch you foot, the rope!
-O.K, I'm falling, you got me?
-dude, the ROPE!!!!

SMASH!!!!!



The guys kept talking about how he ALWAYS wears helmet, but today he decided that he didn't need it. Like, shit, what a co-incidence! You really should wear helmet at all times!

And i kept thinking, no, really, you should just freaking not fall intentionally with the rope behind your leg.

Lesson #1.

Just got back from two days at 10-sleep. We should consider a gerks-a-thon there this summer, because it rocks. And it is in my backyard.


dr_feelgood


May 23, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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what the fuck is with all the goddamned flies in here. I go away for three fucking days, and people start ignoring the note on the goddamned door. Fuck.


lena_chita
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May 23, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Posts: 4792

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
drivel wrote:
cross posted from facespace:

weakend report: hands are destroyed. two dime-sized flappers, a couple of smaller punctures.

[for this weekend] project 5: dribble: 0. (blood: 5/5).
[3 on zaturday, 2 on zunday]

4 one-hang burns with no rest time, 1 time lowering off the crux in disgust when I fell. what are the stages of projecting again? effort, hope, dispair, resignation, sending? I think I'm in "dispair." I may have laid on the ground and cried the real tears Sunday. I don't think i'll be able to go into the gym this weekend, given the state my hands are in.


while I laid on the rock, staring up at the proj, leaking the real tearz, I threatened to break up with it. "I wish I knew how to quit you" style.

Some of the nearby collesium crue were commiserating with me, going "there there," and they laughed. "Nobody can break up with that one. You'll keep coming back."


Sending, like relationships, takes a lot of work and effort. You can't break up the first time you fight. Well, you can, but... you want to send, right?

We mostly had fun at Butcher's Branch. Tim sent Lost Souls 2nd go, then he and Norm left. I have no idea when they got to the crag, they are the be-there-at-6a.m. folks. Jeff and I were still doing the warm-ups when they left.

Jeff was super-nice, controlled his ground-exit-o-phobia, and hung the draws on Control. I struggled up it bolt-to-bolt, cursing my elbow and feeling weak and miserable, but decided that it was worth another go later.

Then we took a long break and spent a lot of time figuring out how serious was the head wound on some dude who flipped and smashed his head into the rock on the 5.10d(b?), the crappy one to the left of Greenpiece. Classic foot behind the rope thing, except he took an INTENTIONAL fall. Apparently belayer was yelling to him about the rope, and he thought he cleared his foot, but...

The entire back of his head was drenched in blood, but he was walking and talking and seemed fine. Eventually we washed off the blood, and found a gash over an inch long, and his buddies decided to take him to the hospital. None of them were feeling up to cleaning the draws off that 5.10 after seeing him flip, and for some reason the first thing they did was pull the rope, so Jeff led it and cleaned their gear. Then he decided that he was tired and done with climbing for the day.

I didn't use "for God's sake, it's only 5.10" line.

Instead I went back to Control, and sent it. Not quite sure how it happened, because the entire time I was zoned out, and not thinking of anything past one move at a time. It didn't feel like 5.12 at all, maybe 5.11a. Then I came back down and listened to a chorus of admiring gumbies who were really impressed with my impeccable technique and apparent ease and lack of grunting sounds. Ha! If only they were there earlier in the morning for my crybaby flailfest!

Maybe I need to have a second date with Apollo... Maybe my problem is that i wasn't giving him a second chance? Do you think he would double-date us, dribble? And really, that crimp on Apollo is way bigger than the crimps on Control...

You really have to wonder what these guys are thinking when they do a dangerous intentional fall. Are they really just hoping for the best? How about you use your brain, determine if the fall is safe, and then go? I mean really!! If you can't fall safe when you can dictate the fall, WTF is going to happen to you when you just fall?

Jesus fucking Christ, I don't understand the popularity of "practice falls." They make sense on, say, overhung rock, but like tick marks, projecting, and outspoken opinions, they just filter down to the lower ranks of gumbies until someone gets hurt.

I don't think it was a "practice "fall, from what I understood it was more of a

-dude, shit, I'm going to fall, you got me?
-dude, watch you foot, the rope!
-O.K, I'm falling, you got me?
-dude, the ROPE!!!!

SMASH!!!!!



The guys kept talking about how he ALWAYS wears helmet, but today he decided that he didn't need it. Like, shit, what a co-incidence! You really should wear helmet at all times!

And i kept thinking, no, really, you should just freaking not fall intentionally with the rope behind your leg.

Lesson #1.

Just got back from two days at 10-sleep. We should consider a gerks-a-thon there this summer, because it rocks. And it is in my backyard.

Early July? I'll be there.


snoopy138


May 23, 2012, 3:55 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
what the fuck is with all the goddamned flies in here. I go away for three fucking days, and people start ignoring the note on the goddamned door. Fuck.

well, some of those douches have proven over time that they can't read.


snoopy138


May 23, 2012, 4:02 PM
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might as well toss out a late weke end report. dad was in town for his 40th reunion at caltech; saturday we biked up in pasadena -- 28 miles with about 2000 ft. of vertical gain -- google maps showed a rode going up and over the first hill, unfortunately I did not check the satellite view, and at the top of the hill was a landfill which we were escorted out of. had to go back down the hill and change up the route. my legs felt like they were about to explode going up the angeles crest (which we did not go all that far up).

sunday I #16'd myself out to the hole. In a surprising turn, smvrf showed up. he stated that if he ever sees CI again, he will kill him. he sounded pretty serious.

took monday off and went biking again with my dad in the morning. not quite as bad as the saturday ride.

this weke end I'll be going to a pretty serious brofest in scottsdale.


granite_grrl


May 23, 2012, 5:23 PM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
drivel wrote:
cross posted from facespace:

weakend report: hands are destroyed. two dime-sized flappers, a couple of smaller punctures.

[for this weekend] project 5: dribble: 0. (blood: 5/5).
[3 on zaturday, 2 on zunday]

4 one-hang burns with no rest time, 1 time lowering off the crux in disgust when I fell. what are the stages of projecting again? effort, hope, dispair, resignation, sending? I think I'm in "dispair." I may have laid on the ground and cried the real tears Sunday. I don't think i'll be able to go into the gym this weekend, given the state my hands are in.


while I laid on the rock, staring up at the proj, leaking the real tearz, I threatened to break up with it. "I wish I knew how to quit you" style.

Some of the nearby collesium crue were commiserating with me, going "there there," and they laughed. "Nobody can break up with that one. You'll keep coming back."


Sending, like relationships, takes a lot of work and effort. You can't break up the first time you fight. Well, you can, but... you want to send, right?

We mostly had fun at Butcher's Branch. Tim sent Lost Souls 2nd go, then he and Norm left. I have no idea when they got to the crag, they are the be-there-at-6a.m. folks. Jeff and I were still doing the warm-ups when they left.

Jeff was super-nice, controlled his ground-exit-o-phobia, and hung the draws on Control. I struggled up it bolt-to-bolt, cursing my elbow and feeling weak and miserable, but decided that it was worth another go later.

Then we took a long break and spent a lot of time figuring out how serious was the head wound on some dude who flipped and smashed his head into the rock on the 5.10d(b?), the crappy one to the left of Greenpiece. Classic foot behind the rope thing, except he took an INTENTIONAL fall. Apparently belayer was yelling to him about the rope, and he thought he cleared his foot, but...

The entire back of his head was drenched in blood, but he was walking and talking and seemed fine. Eventually we washed off the blood, and found a gash over an inch long, and his buddies decided to take him to the hospital. None of them were feeling up to cleaning the draws off that 5.10 after seeing him flip, and for some reason the first thing they did was pull the rope, so Jeff led it and cleaned their gear. Then he decided that he was tired and done with climbing for the day.

I didn't use "for God's sake, it's only 5.10" line.

Instead I went back to Control, and sent it. Not quite sure how it happened, because the entire time I was zoned out, and not thinking of anything past one move at a time. It didn't feel like 5.12 at all, maybe 5.11a. Then I came back down and listened to a chorus of admiring gumbies who were really impressed with my impeccable technique and apparent ease and lack of grunting sounds. Ha! If only they were there earlier in the morning for my crybaby flailfest!

Maybe I need to have a second date with Apollo... Maybe my problem is that i wasn't giving him a second chance? Do you think he would double-date us, dribble? And really, that crimp on Apollo is way bigger than the crimps on Control...

You really have to wonder what these guys are thinking when they do a dangerous intentional fall. Are they really just hoping for the best? How about you use your brain, determine if the fall is safe, and then go? I mean really!! If you can't fall safe when you can dictate the fall, WTF is going to happen to you when you just fall?

Jesus fucking Christ, I don't understand the popularity of "practice falls." They make sense on, say, overhung rock, but like tick marks, projecting, and outspoken opinions, they just filter down to the lower ranks of gumbies until someone gets hurt.

I don't think it was a "practice "fall, from what I understood it was more of a

-dude, shit, I'm going to fall, you got me?
-dude, watch you foot, the rope!
-O.K, I'm falling, you got me?
-dude, the ROPE!!!!

SMASH!!!!!



The guys kept talking about how he ALWAYS wears helmet, but today he decided that he didn't need it. Like, shit, what a co-incidence! You really should wear helmet at all times!

And i kept thinking, no, really, you should just freaking not fall intentionally with the rope behind your leg.

Lesson #1.

Just got back from two days at 10-sleep. We should consider a gerks-a-thon there this summer, because it rocks. And it is in my backyard.

What's the nearest airport?


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2012, 7:24 PM
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
drivel wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
drivel wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:

Do you know where you guys are staying yet?

Where we're staying is up in the air. Joe's place is out, but I'm not sure if I want to hit up Jung, since we're going to stay there with a crew on Memorial Day wknd.

What's going on with Joe? I wonder if Neal would let us stay... Or it might be Brian's place, after all. I think that's where Jeff and Tim would be.

...and which crew are you talking about for Memorial Day?

the one camhead excluded you from, apparently.

The burn doesn't hurt half as much, after I put some salve on it. Tongue

you me camhat jeff t&m, poss others? camping in the yard, for sure.

oh, & who's Neal?

You know, short guy, originally from CLE area, lives down there. I am pretty sure you have run into him...

Anyway, looks like Jeff and Tim and I are staying at Brian's campground this weekend.

Jeff is not in the game for Memorial Day, and I will be only coming for two days, if at all, bc Alisa has gymnastics show on Saturday, and I have the kidlings with me all weekend.

Oh yeah, I remember Neal.

I just scored the guest suite at the Jung compound. You guys are welcome to stay. Erie guardless, we'll meet up.


Score at jung compound for this weekend?

Something tells me we would still go to Brian's because Tim won't go to jung, and Jeff won't leave Tim, and I am sharing the ride and the tent with Jeff, so... I am going to give it a try though.

you don't say.
Ass, grass or gas.

That sounds really disgusting, when you put it that way!

And dribbling, no, I don't say. But you and I will have a lot of time to hang out this weekend, because I was in persuasive mood, and jung compound it is.


so you and jeff with be at the compound and tim will be at the camground?


Everybody would be at the compound. I better clear it with jung though.

Hmm, gonna be crowded. Seriously, we should all contribute $5-10 apiece to give to Jung, to go toward utliities for the house. I have a feeling Banz is going to wind up there, too.

So, right now, biggest possible numbers:
Me, dribble, Lena, Jeff, Tim, Lisa, Jansen, Wollsty.

Add Naom ( Tim's friend) to it, too.

And yes, I am pretty sure Banz will show his face, but he would sleep in the car.

You and dribble are claiming a futon in one of the bedrooms? I don't know about that, we will probably get there before you you can fight for it. Tongue You got the guest room last time at Joe's! (seriously though, I don't care about the futon, but J. and I are claiming one of the bedrooms)

Futon is in the main living room. We still claim it.

Ah, the sotries that futon could tell....
Hey Becs, how was Chossy's trip to the valley? He doesn't post anymore, huh?

Thing iz... nau that chossy iz teh pegbored champ, he thinks he's better than us and kan't be seen hanging owt with us any more.

Course, teh porblem is.... than when his partner bailed, he'd burned so many bridges with us, that nobody wus willing to step up and be there fer him. It got so bad at home, with chossy dancing around in his grots in front ov teh mirror screaming 'I'm teh GREATEST!!!!' that GG had to move owt ov teh country two gets away from it.

Kinda a sad story....
Sly


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2012, 7:28 PM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
drivel wrote:
cross posted from facespace:

weakend report: hands are destroyed. two dime-sized flappers, a couple of smaller punctures.

[for this weekend] project 5: dribble: 0. (blood: 5/5).
[3 on zaturday, 2 on zunday]

4 one-hang burns with no rest time, 1 time lowering off the crux in disgust when I fell. what are the stages of projecting again? effort, hope, dispair, resignation, sending? I think I'm in "dispair." I may have laid on the ground and cried the real tears Sunday. I don't think i'll be able to go into the gym this weekend, given the state my hands are in.


while I laid on the rock, staring up at the proj, leaking the real tearz, I threatened to break up with it. "I wish I knew how to quit you" style.

Some of the nearby collesium crue were commiserating with me, going "there there," and they laughed. "Nobody can break up with that one. You'll keep coming back."


Sending, like relationships, takes a lot of work and effort. You can't break up the first time you fight. Well, you can, but... you want to send, right?

We mostly had fun at Butcher's Branch. Tim sent Lost Souls 2nd go, then he and Norm left. I have no idea when they got to the crag, they are the be-there-at-6a.m. folks. Jeff and I were still doing the warm-ups when they left.

Jeff was super-nice, controlled his ground-exit-o-phobia, and hung the draws on Control. I struggled up it bolt-to-bolt, cursing my elbow and feeling weak and miserable, but decided that it was worth another go later.

Then we took a long break and spent a lot of time figuring out how serious was the head wound on some dude who flipped and smashed his head into the rock on the 5.10d(b?), the crappy one to the left of Greenpiece. Classic foot behind the rope thing, except he took an INTENTIONAL fall. Apparently belayer was yelling to him about the rope, and he thought he cleared his foot, but...

The entire back of his head was drenched in blood, but he was walking and talking and seemed fine. Eventually we washed off the blood, and found a gash over an inch long, and his buddies decided to take him to the hospital. None of them were feeling up to cleaning the draws off that 5.10 after seeing him flip, and for some reason the first thing they did was pull the rope, so Jeff led it and cleaned their gear. Then he decided that he was tired and done with climbing for the day.

I didn't use "for God's sake, it's only 5.10" line.

Instead I went back to Control, and sent it. Not quite sure how it happened, because the entire time I was zoned out, and not thinking of anything past one move at a time. It didn't feel like 5.12 at all, maybe 5.11a. Then I came back down and listened to a chorus of admiring gumbies who were really impressed with my impeccable technique and apparent ease and lack of grunting sounds. Ha! If only they were there earlier in the morning for my crybaby flailfest!

Maybe I need to have a second date with Apollo... Maybe my problem is that i wasn't giving him a second chance? Do you think he would double-date us, dribble? And really, that crimp on Apollo is way bigger than the crimps on Control...

You really have to wonder what these guys are thinking when they do a dangerous intentional fall. Are they really just hoping for the best? How about you use your brain, determine if the fall is safe, and then go? I mean really!! If you can't fall safe when you can dictate the fall, WTF is going to happen to you when you just fall?

Jesus fucking Christ, I don't understand the popularity of "practice falls." They make sense on, say, overhung rock, but like tick marks, projecting, and outspoken opinions, they just filter down to the lower ranks of gumbies until someone gets hurt.

I don't think it was a "practice "fall, from what I understood it was more of a

-dude, shit, I'm going to fall, you got me?
-dude, watch you foot, the rope!
-O.K, I'm falling, you got me?
-dude, the ROPE!!!!

SMASH!!!!!



The guys kept talking about how he ALWAYS wears helmet, but today he decided that he didn't need it. Like, shit, what a co-incidence! You really should wear helmet at all times!

And i kept thinking, no, really, you should just freaking not fall intentionally with the rope behind your leg.

Lesson #1.

Just got back from two days at 10-sleep. We should consider a gerks-a-thon there this summer, because it rocks. And it is in my backyard.
Nice.
There is a significant possibility I may take you up on the wind rivers...mid/end Julyish?


caughtinside


May 24, 2012, 7:40 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
might as well toss out a late weke end report. dad was in town for his 40th reunion at caltech; saturday we biked up in pasadena -- 28 miles with about 2000 ft. of vertical gain -- google maps showed a rode going up and over the first hill, unfortunately I did not check the satellite view, and at the top of the hill was a landfill which we were escorted out of. had to go back down the hill and change up the route. my legs felt like they were about to explode going up the angeles crest (which we did not go all that far up).

sunday I #16'd myself out to the hole. In a surprising turn, smvrf showed up. he stated that if he ever sees CI again, he will kill him. he sounded pretty serious.

took monday off and went biking again with my dad in the morning. not quite as bad as the saturday ride.

this weke end I'll be going to a pretty serious brofest in scottsdale.

sMurf! hahahaha!!! I still have his rant from the gordon fest on my phone. I listen to it once in a while because it is so great.


snoopy138


May 24, 2012, 9:03 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
might as well toss out a late weke end report. dad was in town for his 40th reunion at caltech; saturday we biked up in pasadena -- 28 miles with about 2000 ft. of vertical gain -- google maps showed a rode going up and over the first hill, unfortunately I did not check the satellite view, and at the top of the hill was a landfill which we were escorted out of. had to go back down the hill and change up the route. my legs felt like they were about to explode going up the angeles crest (which we did not go all that far up).

sunday I #16'd myself out to the hole. In a surprising turn, smvrf showed up. he stated that if he ever sees CI again, he will kill him. he sounded pretty serious.

took monday off and went biking again with my dad in the morning. not quite as bad as the saturday ride.

this weke end I'll be going to a pretty serious brofest in scottsdale.

sMurf! hahahaha!!! I still have his rant from the gordon fest on my phone. I listen to it once in a while because it is so great.

you want to transcribe that and put it hear?


caughtinside


May 25, 2012, 8:23 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
might as well toss out a late weke end report. dad was in town for his 40th reunion at caltech; saturday we biked up in pasadena -- 28 miles with about 2000 ft. of vertical gain -- google maps showed a rode going up and over the first hill, unfortunately I did not check the satellite view, and at the top of the hill was a landfill which we were escorted out of. had to go back down the hill and change up the route. my legs felt like they were about to explode going up the angeles crest (which we did not go all that far up).

sunday I #16'd myself out to the hole. In a surprising turn, smvrf showed up. he stated that if he ever sees CI again, he will kill him. he sounded pretty serious.

took monday off and went biking again with my dad in the morning. not quite as bad as the saturday ride.

this weke end I'll be going to a pretty serious brofest in scottsdale.

sMurf! hahahaha!!! I still have his rant from the gordon fest on my phone. I listen to it once in a while because it is so great.

you want to transcribe that and put it hear?

I'll see if I can get to that after the weekend. It wouldn't be quite as good, as the drunken inflection is sidesplitting, but what content is understandable is pretty funny.

I will say that it is grupe style kontent.


snoopy138


May 25, 2012, 9:19 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
might as well toss out a late weke end report. dad was in town for his 40th reunion at caltech; saturday we biked up in pasadena -- 28 miles with about 2000 ft. of vertical gain -- google maps showed a rode going up and over the first hill, unfortunately I did not check the satellite view, and at the top of the hill was a landfill which we were escorted out of. had to go back down the hill and change up the route. my legs felt like they were about to explode going up the angeles crest (which we did not go all that far up).

sunday I #16'd myself out to the hole. In a surprising turn, smvrf showed up. he stated that if he ever sees CI again, he will kill him. he sounded pretty serious.

took monday off and went biking again with my dad in the morning. not quite as bad as the saturday ride.

this weke end I'll be going to a pretty serious brofest in scottsdale.

sMurf! hahahaha!!! I still have his rant from the gordon fest on my phone. I listen to it once in a while because it is so great.

you want to transcribe that and put it hear?

I'll see if I can get to that after the weekend. It wouldn't be quite as good, as the drunken inflection is sidesplitting, but what content is understandable is pretty funny.

I will say that it is grupe style kontent.

yeah, by "put it hear", I pretty much meant "put it in grupe".


camhead


May 25, 2012, 9:42 AM
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Posts: 20395

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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this is a funny climbing video. You have to have facespace, though.

https://www.facebook.com/....php?v=1595655188939


lena_chita
Moderator

May 25, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 4792

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
this is a funny climbing video. You have to have facespace, though.

https://www.facebook.com/....php?v=1595655188939

Awesome!

Offtopic... It is at the Gunks, right? I am pretty sure i climbed it during the weekend with Gail and her friend. That roof looks awfully familiar, I am pretty sure I did that reaching thing. But I didn't have the ropegun, so I did get the rope up there.


snoopy138


May 25, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
this is a funny climbing video. You have to have facespace, though.

https://www.facebook.com/....php?v=1595655188939

I haz teh fasespase, and it is unavailable.

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