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Thoughts on cams over passive pro?
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desertwanderer81


Jul 3, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Re: [donald949] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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I typically only sling my cams out if there is going to be rope drag or if the placement is iffy. Otherwise I save my slings for my nuts.

Anyhow, the biggest advantage that nuts have over cams is their weight. Get used to placing passive pro as you'll be needing it later when you start doing bigger stuff.


scott.nearing


Jul 5, 2012, 3:54 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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What you say


healyje


Jul 5, 2012, 5:13 AM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
I typically only sling my cams out if there is going to be rope drag or if the placement is iffy. Otherwise I save my slings for my nuts.

Anyhow, the biggest advantage that nuts have over cams is their weight. Get used to placing passive pro as you'll be needing it later when you start doing bigger stuff.

It's very, very rare when I don't use a [trad] draw on a cam, and even then I don't hesitate to extend it if I think there is even a remote possibility of the cam moving.


billl7


Jul 5, 2012, 6:06 AM
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Re: [healyje] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
... the lack of slinging on cams results in your cams below the top piece rotating to the horizontal when tensioned in a fall. If the top piece then fails your cams are put into motion pivoting back to the loading angle and then stop in that position. I don't know about you, but once cams are in motion I don't have all the confidence in the world around them stopping where you want them to stop - they do most of the time, but you're still gambling in that regard.

... worth emphasizing ...


petsfed


Jul 5, 2012, 9:34 AM
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Re: [healyje] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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I got into the bad habit a while back of not slinging cams out on cracks that were nearly vertical. I couldn't understand, when I got to the top of the climb, why it felt like I was towing the queen mary. Recently, I started actively examing what I was climbing again, and have slung things a lot more aggressively.

Part of growing up, I suppose.


bearbreeder


Jul 5, 2012, 9:52 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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it depends ... i often do sling them, or extend them with my shiny new dragons ... on more moderate ground or good stances

but there are definately situations where you are climbing at your limit and i dont extend them, especially though the cruxes ...you just have to cognizant of drag and the possibility of a cam rotating

what i have observed is that alot of climbers who climb at their very limit at high levels (12+ trad) out here generally dont extend cams in the difficult sections if its vertical ... partly its due to the nature of the rock and the straight cracks ... and partly because in that split second it can make the difference between sending and falling

there are climbs here where extending cams can make the footwork trickier, as the draw hangs down over the good footholds, so you need to step around it ... not an issue on moderate climbs, but on harder ones you might have fun

Wink


johnwesely


Jul 5, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Thoughts on cams over passive pro? [In reply to]
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I don't really prefer nuts over cams or vice versa. It really depends on the individual placement. That being said, a good nut of almost any size feels as a good as a bolt, but a cam has to be ridiculously good to dispel any doubt about it walking, and usually those placements are also textbook nut placements. I really like to carry the huge green and grey DMM nuts on multi-pitch climbs for belays. I really hate carrying two sets of cams and having those two nuts makes doing so much more reasonable on most climbs.

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