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USnavy
Jun 25, 2012, 1:21 AM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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guangzhou wrote: I think most of you miss the obvious point that he isn't that experienced either. I dident miss that, but just because he is not experienced does not mean he cannot request or require that he climbs with someone who is experienced. When I was learning to belay I was climbing with someone who was climbing 5.12, as it should be. New climbers should learn from advanced climbers, not other noobs.
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guangzhou
Jun 25, 2012, 2:23 AM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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I agree, climbing with experienced climbers is great. When I was learning to climb, I didn't know any 5.12 climbers. I know very few today. In this case, the person is describing some things in his post that make me think he is scared and inexperienced and blaming his partner for what he perceives as dangerous. I think it's his perception because he keeps going back time an time with the same person. He already mentioned he has other people to climb with, if he really knew the partner in question was dangerous and not changing and adapting, he would have moved on.
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billcoe_
Jul 1, 2012, 4:25 AM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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So you heard a staff member say she needed practice. How many times have you practiced belaying with her? Not while climbing. Just belaying with a rope and your gear on, on the ground.
CurlyFries wrote: Yea, she also failed a lead belay test at a different gym than the one we usually go to. She got some feedback from the staff member doing the test basically telling her to practice more. She is one of my roommates, so it is awesome having someone who climbs always around when it's nice out. I guess what I'm asking is, does it usually take a long time to be decent at lead belaying? All of my other friends who lead have been at it for a couple years.
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jae8908
Jul 1, 2012, 7:44 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 270
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moose_droppings wrote: guangzhou wrote: In reply to: I will look down when I finish a route and ask her if she is good to lower. Almost every time she already has the cam fully open (lever out and all) when I havent even weighed the rope. Again, are you sure this isn't your perception, could she have the lever on the gri-gri out, but the cam itself not engaged? If so, what's the difference get rid of the Gri Gri. Keep the Gri Gri. Too many things can happen no matter how much experience you have climbing and belaying.
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madkiki
Sep 14, 2012, 5:02 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 62
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I work in a small climbing gym and I am the only one allowed to teach belaying. First of all I let my students know that my teaching is based on Manufacturer's recommendation. I like to take my time in teaching my students and never rush it. Always teach with a tube style belay device first because it enforces fundamental belay techniques and from my experience has better control than a device such as a Gri-Gri. I am never the climber when I am teaching belaying. There is always a student belayer and another climber, so that I can be on the floor as backup belayer while I am coaching them. The Gri-Gri is something that I teach later on after they have learned tube-style-belaying fundamentals. Every student is different, some need more time than others. Either way, I like to coach these students over a period of time. Also, I like to work with experience climbers as well to make sure that we are all on the same page. I never go climbing outdoors with anyone until I have had the chance to watch them belay in a climbing gym. There is a lot of mis-information going around constantly by a lot of people. The bottom line is Manufacturer's instructions that come with your equipment is a great place for answers.
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cracklover
Sep 14, 2012, 5:23 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Good post. The only thing I'd take issue with is:
madkiki wrote: The bottom line is Manufacturer's instructions that come with your equipment is a great place for answers to start.
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