Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
accident ... possibly belayer error
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quasenada


Jan 17, 2013, 8:28 AM
Post #51 of 53 (516 views)
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Registered: Dec 26, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [bearbreeder] accident ... possibly belayer error [In reply to]
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In reply to:
“Use 2 carabiners instead of one with the ATC and there'll be enough device friction to control the lowering even with a half rope.
rob.calm”
Good Stuff never tried but makes sense
In reply to:
""Someone new to belaying is less likely to pick up on the above issue. I mean, one can't fall back to the basic specification of the range of rope diameters the device can "handle" which in this case is 7.7mm (yikes!) to 11mm. (billl7)"
Manual for the ATC states mm between 9-11mm for single rope (In the case of TR since he has only 1 strand on the device).
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/files/M10797_A%20ATC_IS%20WEB.pdf
More I climb more I learn that the crux of most (all?) climbs is to find a reliable partner. I saw in one Messner interview they ask him what is the secret of success? He says “Your partner”.

(This post was edited by quasenada on Jan 17, 2013, 8:29 AM)


billl7


Jan 17, 2013, 10:08 AM
Post #52 of 53 (475 views)
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [quasenada] accident ... possibly belayer error [In reply to]
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quasenada wrote:
In reply to:
""Someone new to belaying is less likely to pick up on the above issue. I mean, one can't fall back to the basic specification of the range of rope diameters the device can "handle" which in this case is 7.7mm (yikes!) to 11mm. (billl7)"
Manual for the ATC states mm between 9-11mm for single rope (In the case of TR since he has only 1 strand on the device).
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/files/M10797_A%20ATC_IS%20WEB.pdf
I find even double 9's to be 'fast' on an ATC rap let alone double 7.7s. I'm also suspicious of lead belaying on a single 9mm with an ATC.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Jan 17, 2013, 10:10 AM)


bearbreeder


Jan 17, 2013, 7:56 PM
Post #53 of 53 (431 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [billl7] accident ... possibly belayer error [In reply to]
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theres no effing way anyone is belaying me period on an ATC with a 9mm single

Wink

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