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climbingtrash
Jul 21, 2012, 11:23 AM
Post #92826 of 99587
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climbingtrash
Jul 21, 2012, 11:23 AM
Post #92827 of 99587
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wo0?!?
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climbingtrash
Jul 21, 2012, 11:27 AM
Post #92828 of 99587
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black yellow ops?
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camhead
Jul 21, 2012, 3:27 PM
Post #92829 of 99587
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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Hey Trashy, ewe gheys getting rained on a bunch over there?
Violent thunderstorms here, and today was the one day I had lined up a climbing partner. She was psyched to just check out the area, so we headed out, hiked up on the Mesa where I've scoped some shit, and the clouds just unleashed. Found shelter under a rock, and a few of the cracks I'd had my eye on began pouring waterfalls. Fuck. This Wingate is softer than the Creek, so wet rock was an issue, definitely.
Rain stopped, awesome after-storm-desert feeling, and we headed over to this short little crack that I had talked up to the partner since it had looked pretty easy. Turns out it was short enough, and sheltered by a 200 foot overhang, that it was still dry.
Got on it, and it was clear that this was a bit harder than 5.9. Slight offset, sandy as all hell, and never really widened beyond ringlocks. I think I grunted mantling up to the anchors. It is only 40 ft or so, but has some good qualities: salvation handjam for clipping the chains, good rock at the base to lay back on and talk shit, and now two shiny new bultz at the top, thanks to trapper jim.
Checked out the other two lines in the area that I was psyched on, but they both have unprotected starts in the Chinle that will be sketchy without wet rock. Hopefully we'll get back out there next week.
Still, given the thunder and rain this morning, we were lucky to get anything in.
Oh, and we called the carck Lil Brudder. 10+/11-.
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climbingtrash
Jul 21, 2012, 5:57 PM
Post #92830 of 99587
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after?
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camhead
Jul 21, 2012, 6:23 PM
Post #92831 of 99587
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after?
Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands.
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kachoong
Jul 21, 2012, 7:31 PM
Post #92832 of 99587
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands.
Spring in the Creek?
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drivel
Jul 22, 2012, 7:37 AM
Post #92833 of 99587
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands.
ewe comes home to me? really?
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carabiner96
Jul 22, 2012, 9:26 AM
Post #92834 of 99587
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek?
Yes pleeze.
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caughtinside
Jul 22, 2012, 10:35 AM
Post #92835 of 99587
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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climbingtrash wrote: caughtinside wrote:  clipping the chains... God of Thunder rp. drizzle led this thing at the gerkoff last year. weke... i noes weke iz knot awl teh way up to teh bomber clipping jug.
It looks close... but you wouldn't go to that jug unless you were doing the .12c Fight THe Power extension.
I did sissy clip off that terrible sloper. I looked up, saw I could reach and clipped. I was pretty damn pumped and the gear is visible just below my feet. I should have actually made a half move left and clipped off a sinker horizontal jam.
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caughtinside
Jul 22, 2012, 10:37 AM
Post #92836 of 99587
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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climbingtrash wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Hey Camhat, I think I finally found the replacement for katanas. I got some Scarpa Vapor Velcorz and they are awesome. Wide forefoot. They have the same front velcro fold over the outside of the foot as katanas so no good for cracks but as a face velcro shoe they are great, wider toebox which fits my foot. Different, more asym shape than the Force or Feroce. We've been moving more and more away from stiffy shooz. My katanas were made for Xzzz, but I barely wore them. Just like sensitive floppy shoes better. Seems if your feet are strong enough, you don't need edges as much. I hate standing on small stuff in floppy shoes. Part of the issue is that I have sweaty feet, which will slide and roll more in a softer shoe. ewe have moar issues than just sweaty feet.
No argument there.
I did once read a blurb by steph davis, whose theory was that the harder the rock, the stiffer the shoe you should use. and vice versa of course. Seems to hold up?
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dr_feelgood
Jul 22, 2012, 7:23 PM
Post #92838 of 99587
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25318
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carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze.
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carabiner96
Jul 23, 2012, 5:27 AM
Post #92839 of 99587
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze. What do you folks consider "spring"?
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granite_grrl
Jul 23, 2012, 6:41 AM
Post #92840 of 99587
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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So went out for a pathetic day of climbing yesterday. We didn't do anything harder than 10+, I top ropped it all.
Finger hurt a lot, which might really screw up my climbing season this year...and this makes me sad :(. I should be fine for the fall, but a big break mid season doesn't give me much of a chance to improve on my climbing much this year.
Finger does feel better today than yesterday so maybe I should be more optimistic. We'll see what next weekend brings I guess.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 23, 2012, 6:57 AM
Post #92841 of 99587
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 4807
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carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze. What do you folks consider "spring"? March/early April? Yore probably still in school?
Last week of March. Please?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 23, 2012, 7:01 AM
Post #92842 of 99587
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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granite_grrl wrote: So went out for a pathetic day of climbing yesterday. We didn't do anything harder than 10+, I top ropped it all. Finger hurt a lot, which might really screw up my climbing season this year...and this makes me sad :(. I should be fine for the fall, but a big break mid season doesn't give me much of a chance to improve on my climbing much this year. Finger does feel better today than yesterday so maybe I should be more optimistic. We'll see what next weekend brings I guess.
Oh noez! I missed the finger-screwing story. What did you do? You should be more careful with this stuff, you know?
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carabiner96
Jul 23, 2012, 7:06 AM
Post #92843 of 99587
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze. What do you folks consider "spring"? March/early April? Yore probably still in school? Last week of March. Please?
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carabiner96
Jul 23, 2012, 7:07 AM
Post #92844 of 99587
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So went out for a pathetic day of climbing yesterday. We didn't do anything harder than 10+, I top ropped it all. Finger hurt a lot, which might really screw up my climbing season this year...and this makes me sad :(. I should be fine for the fall, but a big break mid season doesn't give me much of a chance to improve on my climbing much this year. Finger does feel better today than yesterday so maybe I should be more optimistic. We'll see what next weekend brings I guess. Oh noez! I missed the finger-screwing story. What did you do? You should be more careful with this stuff, you know?
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climbingtrash
Jul 23, 2012, 7:33 AM
Post #92845 of 99587
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 4618
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caughtinside wrote: climbingtrash wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Hey Camhat, I think I finally found the replacement for katanas. I got some Scarpa Vapor Velcorz and they are awesome. Wide forefoot. They have the same front velcro fold over the outside of the foot as katanas so no good for cracks but as a face velcro shoe they are great, wider toebox which fits my foot. Different, more asym shape than the Force or Feroce. We've been moving more and more away from stiffy shooz. My katanas were made for Xzzz, but I barely wore them. Just like sensitive floppy shoes better. Seems if your feet are strong enough, you don't need edges as much. I hate standing on small stuff in floppy shoes. Part of the issue is that I have sweaty feet, which will slide and roll more in a softer shoe. ewe have moar issues than just sweaty feet. No argument there. I did once read a blurb by steph davis, whose theory was that the harder the rock, the stiffer the shoe you should use. and vice versa of course. Seems to hold up?
Sounds like a good guideline fore teh n00b, but I don't think that's always teh case. But I mostly climbing on sandstone choss anymore so it's awl soft shooz awl teh time for me.
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granite_grrl
Jul 23, 2012, 7:37 AM
Post #92846 of 99587
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So went out for a pathetic day of climbing yesterday. We didn't do anything harder than 10+, I top ropped it all. Finger hurt a lot, which might really screw up my climbing season this year...and this makes me sad :(. I should be fine for the fall, but a big break mid season doesn't give me much of a chance to improve on my climbing much this year. Finger does feel better today than yesterday so maybe I should be more optimistic. We'll see what next weekend brings I guess. Oh noez! I missed the finger-screwing story. What did you do? You should be more careful with this stuff, you know?
Just being a dumb ass. Strained it, but kept climbing on it and made it worse. It's only been two weeks though so hopefully I'll have more improvment over the next week or two?
And yes, I should have been more careful. 
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caughtinside
Jul 23, 2012, 8:47 AM
Post #92847 of 99587
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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climbingtrash wrote: caughtinside wrote: climbingtrash wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Hey Camhat, I think I finally found the replacement for katanas. I got some Scarpa Vapor Velcorz and they are awesome. Wide forefoot. They have the same front velcro fold over the outside of the foot as katanas so no good for cracks but as a face velcro shoe they are great, wider toebox which fits my foot. Different, more asym shape than the Force or Feroce. We've been moving more and more away from stiffy shooz. My katanas were made for Xzzz, but I barely wore them. Just like sensitive floppy shoes better. Seems if your feet are strong enough, you don't need edges as much. I hate standing on small stuff in floppy shoes. Part of the issue is that I have sweaty feet, which will slide and roll more in a softer shoe. ewe have moar issues than just sweaty feet. No argument there. I did once read a blurb by steph davis, whose theory was that the harder the rock, the stiffer the shoe you should use. and vice versa of course. Seems to hold up? Sounds like a good guideline fore teh n00b, but I don't think that's always teh case. But I mostly climbing on sandstone choss anymore so it's awl soft shooz awl teh time for me.
Well sure. Like everything else in climbing there are general rules of thumb with a myriad of exceptions.
I wear my moccs on lots of easy stuff on granite but basically never on anything over .9. They're my favorite shoes to wear but not always the best shoe for teh jorb.
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snoopy138
Jul 23, 2012, 9:01 AM
Post #92848 of 99587
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28105
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lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze. What do you folks consider "spring"? March/early April? Yore probably still in school? Last week of March. Please?
In my somewhat limited experience, the last weke of march is a good time to get rained/snowed on in teh creke.
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caughtinside
Jul 23, 2012, 9:08 AM
Post #92849 of 99587
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze. What do you folks consider "spring"? March/early April? Yore probably still in school? Last week of March. Please? In my somewhat limited experience, the last weke of march is a good time to get rained/snowed on in teh creke.
The creek has a short season. Donny and I were there first week of May. We had the place with no crowds but it was damn hot.
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caughtinside
Jul 23, 2012, 9:08 AM
Post #92850 of 99587
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Do you guys know how maple is in September? Still good? Or getting too chilly?
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