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caughtinside
Jul 27, 2012, 2:32 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yes, the money would be better spent on BLL. or BLL-a-ritas!
Those are dangerous malt beverages! Way tasty though!
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caughtinside
Jul 27, 2012, 2:33 PM
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caughtinside
Jul 27, 2012, 2:33 PM
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caughtinside
Jul 27, 2012, 2:34 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yes, the money would be better spent on BLL. or BLL-a-ritas! I totally bought a 12 pack of BLL for the heat wave. that is unfortunate.
that is incorrect.
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snoopy138
Jul 27, 2012, 4:21 PM
Post #92980 of 99598
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caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yeah, some guys are big fans of non-monetary compensation in the form of kissing. Others are just cheap jerks. I'm the latter.
my belayers just take pleasure in giving good second.
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camhead
Jul 27, 2012, 4:39 PM
Post #92981 of 99598
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Well, shit. Partner officially fell through for the next two days, which I have free before going back out gumby-wrangling for 9 days.
Slim possibility that I could snag a partner for the last day I'm here in two weeks. Really want to go finish off these last two cracks here. Gargh.
Trashie! Aug 7! Now!
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dr_feelgood
Jul 27, 2012, 7:02 PM
Post #92982 of 99598
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meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Whoa, just got done working a comically pain-in-the-ass trip. Got three folks on this 5-day camping horseback trip who were the most out of shape, out of their element people I've ever seen. All in their late 60s, pretty white trash, way overweight, out of shape, crohn's disease, heart conditions, etc., and had neglected to put any of this info on their profile sheets that we require. Turns out that one of them was a bit "slow," looked just like that "Patsy" character that Terry Gilliam plays in Monty Python's Holy Grail, kind of leering and stumbling all over the place. I guess he had saved up thousands with a janitor job over the past 50 years, decided he wanted to go be a cowboy, and paid for his two neighbors' trips as well, so that they could come with him. Was nice enough, but a total disaster. Couldn't walk 50 feet without meatbombing, fell off his horse multiple times a day. Once he almost cratered into my lit stove with a full pot of chili on it as well, but I power spotted him away from it. I asked if he was all right, and he said, "yeah, I fall all the time! Once, my group put on a play at the community center, and I fell off the stage!" I had to hide a laugh at that one. Getting worse, the woman of this group announced that she had a severe wool allergy, and that she couldn't use our sleeping bags. Rather than argue with her that our bags were not wool, I wound up lending her mine, just to shut her up. Just threw it in the front loading washer, and it smelled like moldy cigarettes. Anyway, the whole trip they just complained (even the retarded guy), huffed around at the 10k elevation, and sat on their asses. They were really butthurt that we weren't serving steak every night. By the end of the trip I was just staying in a haze of alcohol and [redacted]. They didn't tip us anything. Fuckers. That is awl. Yer just bangin two halves of a coconut together
I laugh at camhat's pain.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 27, 2012, 7:29 PM
Post #92983 of 99598
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carabiner96 wrote: Cleaning out the closet. Anyone want: Nemo Losi 2p Big Agnes Seedhouse SL1 Moonstone side zip hardshell pants w/ suspenders, mens L -20* down sleeping bag, mens Long (I think it's TNF) Sure to be more to come
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dr_feelgood
Jul 27, 2012, 7:30 PM
Post #92984 of 99598
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carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: And I think we alreayd have birthday presents lined up for each other this year. I've decided that Nathan can get a new hammer drill before he hits the road this winter. Me, I want this: http://www.mec.ca/...ze-jacket-womens.jsp (in fennel). No hood (boo!) but the arms seem to be longer than the Guide jacket. It's actually the only softshell I've found yet that I don't have to size up on the body to get long enough arms. Ugh, keep me away, I friggen love jackets. Can never have enough!
I'm never buying another jacket for ice climbing without a hood.
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climbingtrash
Jul 27, 2012, 9:18 PM
Post #92985 of 99598
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camhead wrote: Well, shit. Partner officially fell through for the next two days, which I have free before going back out gumby-wrangling for 9 days. Slim possibility that I could snag a partner for the last day I'm here in two weeks. Really want to go finish off these last two cracks here. Gargh. Trashie! Aug 7! Now!
Might be able to make that happen.
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camhead
Jul 28, 2012, 8:03 AM
Post #92986 of 99598
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climbingtrash wrote: camhead wrote: Well, shit. Partner officially fell through for the next two days, which I have free before going back out gumby-wrangling for 9 days. Slim possibility that I could snag a partner for the last day I'm here in two weeks. Really want to go finish off these last two cracks here. Gargh. Trashie! Aug 7! Now! Might be able to make that happen.
Dude, that would be awesome. I am really hard-up, and need to get these FA's out of the way before I leave.
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Jul 28, 2012, 2:29 PM
Post #92987 of 99598
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meatbomz wrote: lena_chita wrote: meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Oh yeah we've been getting sprayed down. Threatening to again right now. I had to cancel a trip last week because of rain and most of the canyons are full of water and quicksand now. Looks like a good climb. What's your schedule looking like the end of next week/first of the week after? Pretty booked with trips, but will have parts of this upcoming FriSatSun available. The more trips to Aug 7, then have to drive home to my dribble. Would be way psyched to show you this area though; calling it The Borderlands. Spring in the Creek? Yes pleeze. What do you folks consider "spring"? March/early April? Yore probably still in school? Last week of March. Please? In my somewhat limited experience, the last weke of march is a good time to get rained/snowed on in teh creke. We got snowed on this year in the first week of April. DISLIKE! O.K., I'll re-phrase it this way: where would you go in the last week of March, if you had a week to go anywhere? So far for that time frame I've done --Smith Rock (good climbing conditions, but I don't want to go back there) --Hueco (borderline too hot, but pretty good) --RRG (great, assuming it doesn't rain or snow). But this is the backup destination. Red Rocks is usually pretty gud then.
Can be iffy. Could snow in the higher canyons and rain in the lower. But there is fun stuff to do around town if it does. 
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Jul 28, 2012, 2:47 PM
Post #92988 of 99598
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lena_chita wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: Ugh, how hard can it be to find online the climbing shoes you like in the size you want? Plenty hard, apparently! Success, finally, after 2 days of looking! And I found them not on any of the usual sites (backcountry, mountain gear, etc. etc. or even zappos), but at some weird places I have never used before. But man, oh man, paying full price for a pair of shoes SUCKS! What shoes? Usually when you can't find them at the big boys it means they've been discontinued. You think testarossas are discontinued? I didn't hear that. But I had a very hard time finding my size... the 5.10 Sirens ( the old blue/grey ones) are discontinued, so I expected the difficulty there ,but I found a pair of old ones in my size more easily than the Testarossas.
I have a pair of sirens from when they first came out. Never wore them really. Size 7. They're yours if you want them. I'll double check my bin to make sure that they are still there. I haven't looked in a long time.
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kachoong
Jul 28, 2012, 7:00 PM
Post #92989 of 99598
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yes, the money would be better spent on BLL. or BLL-a-ritas! I totally bought a 12 pack of BLL for the heat wave. that is unfortunate. that is incorrect.
I'm gonna have to agree with snoppy on that one.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 29, 2012, 9:48 AM
Post #92990 of 99598
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dr_feelgood wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Whoa, just got done working a comically pain-in-the-ass trip. Got three folks on this 5-day camping horseback trip who were the most out of shape, out of their element people I've ever seen. All in their late 60s, pretty white trash, way overweight, out of shape, crohn's disease, heart conditions, etc., and had neglected to put any of this info on their profile sheets that we require. Turns out that one of them was a bit "slow," looked just like that "Patsy" character that Terry Gilliam plays in Monty Python's Holy Grail, kind of leering and stumbling all over the place. I guess he had saved up thousands with a janitor job over the past 50 years, decided he wanted to go be a cowboy, and paid for his two neighbors' trips as well, so that they could come with him. Was nice enough, but a total disaster. Couldn't walk 50 feet without meatbombing, fell off his horse multiple times a day. Once he almost cratered into my lit stove with a full pot of chili on it as well, but I power spotted him away from it. I asked if he was all right, and he said, "yeah, I fall all the time! Once, my group put on a play at the community center, and I fell off the stage!" I had to hide a laugh at that one. Getting worse, the woman of this group announced that she had a severe wool allergy, and that she couldn't use our sleeping bags. Rather than argue with her that our bags were not wool, I wound up lending her mine, just to shut her up. Just threw it in the front loading washer, and it smelled like moldy cigarettes. Anyway, the whole trip they just complained (even the retarded guy), huffed around at the 10k elevation, and sat on their asses. They were really butthurt that we weren't serving steak every night. By the end of the trip I was just staying in a haze of alcohol and [redacted]. They didn't tip us anything. Fuckers. That is awl. Yer just bangin two halves of a coconut together I laugh at camhat's pain.
I see a similar future for you too.
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meatbomz
Jul 29, 2012, 9:49 AM
Post #92991 of 99598
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yeah, some guys are big fans of non-monetary compensation in the form of kissing. Others are just cheap jerks. I'm the latter. my belayers just take pleasure in giving good second.
And inviting you into their tents at HVCG
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meatbomz
Jul 29, 2012, 9:51 AM
Post #92992 of 99598
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kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yes, the money would be better spent on BLL. or BLL-a-ritas! I totally bought a 12 pack of BLL for the heat wave. that is unfortunate. that is incorrect. I'm gonna have to agree with snoppy on that one.
I am ambivalent
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granite_grrl
Jul 29, 2012, 5:18 PM
Post #92993 of 99598
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dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: And I think we alreayd have birthday presents lined up for each other this year. I've decided that Nathan can get a new hammer drill before he hits the road this winter. Me, I want this: http://www.mec.ca/...ze-jacket-womens.jsp (in fennel). No hood (boo!) but the arms seem to be longer than the Guide jacket. It's actually the only softshell I've found yet that I don't have to size up on the body to get long enough arms. Ugh, keep me away, I friggen love jackets. Can never have enough! I'm never buying another jacket for ice climbing without a hood.
It kills me to get one without but they don't seem to make too many jackets for tall ladies with monkey arms, go figure.
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snoopy138
Jul 29, 2012, 9:22 PM
Post #92994 of 99598
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meatbomz wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yes, the money would be better spent on BLL. or BLL-a-ritas! I totally bought a 12 pack of BLL for the heat wave. that is unfortunate. that is incorrect. I'm gonna have to agree with snoppy on that one. I am ambivalent
I'd like to think that if you were going to relapse, it wouldn't be by drinking BLLs.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 30, 2012, 6:03 AM
Post #92995 of 99598
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climbs4fun wrote: lena_chita wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: Ugh, how hard can it be to find online the climbing shoes you like in the size you want? Plenty hard, apparently! Success, finally, after 2 days of looking! And I found them not on any of the usual sites (backcountry, mountain gear, etc. etc. or even zappos), but at some weird places I have never used before. But man, oh man, paying full price for a pair of shoes SUCKS! What shoes? Usually when you can't find them at the big boys it means they've been discontinued. You think testarossas are discontinued? I didn't hear that. But I had a very hard time finding my size... the 5.10 Sirens ( the old blue/grey ones) are discontinued, so I expected the difficulty there ,but I found a pair of old ones in my size more easily than the Testarossas. I have a pair of sirens from when they first came out. Never wore them really. Size 7. They're yours if you want them. I'll double check my bin to make sure that they are still there. I haven't looked in a long time.
You are sweet! but I need size 6. Anyhow, I did find a pair in the old style at EMS, they are theoretically on their way.
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meatbomz
Jul 30, 2012, 10:04 AM
Post #92996 of 99598
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snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Thre is some kind of paradox here, where the people who you bust your ass for the most are those who are least likely to tip, and those who tip the best are those who you don't really have to do much for. It's just payback for the trip I worked just before Xzzz, which was totally chill, and wound up tipping us $700/apiece. That is a sizable tip, wow! On a much smaller scale, I have noticed the same thing when belaying groups in the gym. The groups that make you look at the clock every couple minutes, wishing the time would magically speed up, never tip. The groups that you actually enjoy will tip more often than not. I never tip my belayer. Yes, the money would be better spent on BLL. or BLL-a-ritas! I totally bought a 12 pack of BLL for the heat wave. that is unfortunate. that is incorrect. I'm gonna have to agree with snoppy on that one. I am ambivalent I'd like to think that if you were going to relapse, it wouldn't be by drinking BLLs.
It would be analogous to breaking out of prison and getting hit by a truck on the street outside.
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snoopy138
Jul 31, 2012, 6:10 PM
Post #92997 of 99598
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YO FUCKERS WHY ARE YOU NOT POSTING?
I spent the day up in Silicon Valley and am now drinking at the airport.
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carabiner96
Jul 31, 2012, 6:37 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: YO FUCKERS WHY ARE YOU NOT POSTING? I spent the day up in Silicon Valley and am now drinking at the airport.
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granite_grrl
Aug 1, 2012, 4:39 AM
Post #92999 of 99598
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I'm busy trying to find a new roommate/an affordable 1 bdrm.
I also went to the crack ma'am last night and decided not to undo all her work by hopping on a bike and riding 50km, so I went and TR soloed at this little crag in town.
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granite_grrl
Aug 1, 2012, 4:54 AM
Post #93000 of 99598
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Speaking of TR soloing, what setups do you guys use? Do you use any sort of backup?
I find myself climbing at a much lower level when TR soloing, being kinda parinoid about the device catching.
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