Aug 27, 2012, 9:33 AM
Post #26 of 26
Registered: May 24, 2007
|That actually made me laff.
There are certain free climbing transgressions, for example. The current climbing magazine issue, page 33. Taint o meter. One end of the meter is a total free climb, the middle is questionable free climb, the end is not free at all. In between free and questionably free, includes: chalk, climb off route to rest, pre hang quick draws, stick clip bolts, pre place pro. In between questionably free and not free at all includes: take, grab bolt or draw, stand on bolt, stand on sling, aid.
OK, so there are at least two people with mistaken ideas about what a free climb is: you and the author of that article.
I fear that damned page in Climbing is going to haunt us for years. Experienced climbers can see the humor and understand the satire, but n00bs and the clueless will interpret it as some sort of iron-clad definition and start spouting bull shit like "degrees" of "true free climbing".
Just like the nonsense of being able to on-sight a climb on your 4th attempt
or numerous other examples from this site.