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Nuts for Anchors
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csproul


Sep 26, 2012, 7:29 AM
Post #26 of 29 (553 views)
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [gunkiemike] Nuts for Anchors [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
csproul wrote:

If you can't evaluate the nuts that you rapped off of, how did you evaluate the gear that you used to protect the climb?

The OP never said (s)he was leading.
No, you're right, they didn't. So that likely places the new follower in a position where s/he is relying on their leader to asses the quality of the gear and anchor while on the climb. This also means that this new follower is relying on their leader to assess the quality of the rappel anchor. Nothing particularly wrong with that, most all of us had to do this at one time. But, the bottom line is that this climber is still responsible for their own safety. If s/he is unsure about the rappel anchor, then they should not have used it as is. If you do not like the rap anchor, back it up. Leave gear if you have to. Find another way down. There are situations where this might be impractical, but this is not one of them. I know the area and the anchor well.

What this really boils down to is a noob trad climber in an area that does not embrace bolted permanent anchors, who unnecessarily freaked out over a somewhat unconventional but very solid anchor. S/he was unable to assess the quality of the anchor and we got the OP instead of their admitting this and trying to learn those skills. I am glad to see that this thread has possibly shed some light on the situation for the OP and that maybe they now understand Moore's and traditional climbing a little better. I hope they continue down this path and find it as rewarding as I have.


csproul


Sep 26, 2012, 7:49 AM
Post #27 of 29 (549 views)
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Re: [curt] Nuts for Anchors [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
madkiki wrote:
I did my first Trad climb at Moore's Wall in North Carolina and it was the first climbing area where they don't have bolted anchors like I see at other climbing areas such as Pilot Mountain.

Anyway, we trad climbed up Wailing Wall and when it was time to Rappel down I noticed that the anchor system was nothing but three nuts in a crack. I was scared out of my mind but at the same time I knew that I did not have a choice.

One thing I did not mention was that my glasses had been accidentally kicked off my face after first pitch and therefore could not see much after that. So, I did not get a very good look at the anchors and had to trust the people that I was with. We did find my glasses after we were all safely on the ground

Anyway, I could not believe that the Nutty Anchors that are placed there instead of solid bolted anchors.

I get the impression that after so many people using this anchor it begins to wear-and-tear or some idiot could easily mess with the anchors.

One thing for sure, I am no longer climbing there.

When did North Carolina become the new Pennsylvania?

Jay

They seem to troll better in NC.

Curt
I don't think so in this case. I'm pretty sure I was climbing not too far away from the OP at the time. I definitely heard some people come down that rappel anchor with panic in their voice.


billl7


Sep 26, 2012, 9:01 AM
Post #28 of 29 (535 views)
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [louBlissab] Nuts for Anchors [In reply to]
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louBlissab wrote:
My point is still accurate and true. In fact, you yourself do not soley and blindly rely on your partner's opinion regarding anchor building.

You have climbed with your partner and vetted her anchor building technique to such an extent, as to feel comfortable to follow. You are both experienced and are familiar with each other and the routine.
I'll concede that as mitigating. And yet "never" is just too absolute of a word.

louBlissab wrote:
However, the original poster and related partners are obviously very new to trad climbing and are unsure of the whole system and process.

Not sure I'll concede that everyone was obviously very new. Maybe that's been cleared up - haven't read all posts up to this point in time. My hope is the OP had someone experience who checked out the anchor before its use. If that is what happened, not being able to make the judgement yourself is indeed solely and blindly relying on other people.

Bill L


bearbreeder


Sep 26, 2012, 9:08 AM
Post #29 of 29 (532 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [csproul] Nuts for Anchors [In reply to]
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Newbie panics on multi the sprays all about it on the intrawebs rather than ask the leader or other climbers quietly?

Better stick to being a toppu roperu tofu guy Tongue

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