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Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday
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robx


Oct 8, 2012, 1:14 PM
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Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday
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after a fun climb up clip a dee doo dah at jimmy cliff my climbing partner and I came down and decided to do the route next to it to the right. We walked up and saw a woman lowering her partner from the first pitch, and while he was still ~40 ft up, she was down to the last 8 ft of rope with no knot tied in the end. I grabbed the rope, tossed a knot in the end and she thanked me, but they still had a climber on the wall, and didn't know how to solve the problem.
The man stuck on the wall climbed back up to the first pitch belay ledge, with no personal anchors, no extra quick draws, no belay device, and when I asked if they knew how to munter hitch belay, they looked at me puzzled.
I belayed the lady up, and after about an hour, they figured out how to get to the top with all of their stuff and with both people.
The ironic part of all of this, is that other people in their climbing group made a similar mistake not an hour earlier when they stranded one of their climbers on the exact ledge trying to lower him. We were on clip a dee, and had to walk them through how to solve the problem while we were anchored in.

rc.com - would you have stepped in in either or both situations? I know both routes are free soloed all the time, but I'm wondering if you would have solved the problem differently.


gblauer
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Oct 8, 2012, 3:27 PM
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Re: [robx] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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Of course I would help. When someone needs help, you help.


wonderwoman


Oct 8, 2012, 4:18 PM
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Re: [robx] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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Moved from general to A & I by WW.

And, what Gail said ^^^^


RobAT


Oct 8, 2012, 4:42 PM
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Re: [robx] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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Loan them a rope. The guy and their gear are down in 20 min or less. No?


louBlissab


Oct 8, 2012, 4:43 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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Why don't people simply pick-up a book or get professional instruction before someone gets hurt or worse!

Closing the system is basic safe climbing practice, that these people obviously had no clue.


robx


Oct 8, 2012, 4:54 PM
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Re: [RobAT] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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RobAT wrote:
Loan them a rope. The guy and their gear are down in 20 min or less. No?

I loaned them my rope and a belay, got her to the top, then they sorted out anchor/belay stuff to do the second pitch, I guess they played around up there for a while trying to figure things out.

Honestly, the whole group of canadian uni students were a little terrifying to climb near, but at a place as packed as rumney I guess it's to be expected.


billl7


Oct 8, 2012, 5:55 PM
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Re: [RobAT] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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RobAT wrote:
Loan them a rope. The guy and their gear are down in 20 min or less. No?
Yep - and I'll wager 5 minutes or less. Smile


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 8, 2012, 5:55 PM)


billl7


Oct 8, 2012, 6:39 PM
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Re: [robx] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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robx wrote:
I'm wondering if you would have solved the problem differently.
I don't know ... but I guess it doesn't sound like they were ready to go up more than one pitch in terms of knowledge ... having trouble with just one pitch.

Is it possible you put both of them in even greater probability of serious accident by encouraging them to solve it by doing the second pitch when obviously they were planning on doing just the first pitch?

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 8, 2012, 6:41 PM)


Partner robdotcalm


Oct 8, 2012, 9:09 PM
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louBlissab wrote:
Closing the system is basic safe climbing practice, that these people obviously had no clue.

There are some climbers of renown who also don't seem to have a clue.

http://davemacleod.blogspot.ca/...for-short-while.html

Rob.calm


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 12:04 AM
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Re: [robx] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?


robx


Oct 9, 2012, 3:44 AM
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hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).


billl7


Oct 9, 2012, 5:34 AM
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Re: [robx] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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robx wrote:
In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it.

Hopefully, you are just being sarcastic and don't really think that way about other people.

Okay - the decision to go to the top sounds more like it was theirs and that this was their ultimate plan.

Since they are not posting here and explaining themselves, seems the best use of this thread is to look at the alternatives you didn't know about ... like you originally asked.

... and thanks for preventing what would have been a serious accident (twice it seems).

Bill L


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Oct 9, 2012, 8:43 AM
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I still don't understand what happened. But if it's just me, no problem, I guess everything's cleared up now for the OP.

I guess the only thing I want to add is that seeing people do scary near-deadly things is somewhat of a common event at Rumney. I honestly believe that the reason why there aren't many more accidents there is *precisely* because the place is so crowded that there's usually someone like you to step in and help out.

I'm not trying to make light of it - it does kind of suck to watch a party of gumbies try to kill themselves when you're just trying to have a good day out on the rocks. But if you spend enough time at Rumney, or any other popular climbing destinations with easy climbs, this is not the last time you'll see it.

Anyway, good job being "that guy", in the good sense, this time.

Cheers,

GO


jt512


Oct 9, 2012, 10:01 AM
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cracklover wrote:
I still don't understand what happened. But if it's just me, no problem,

I don't get it either.


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 10:42 AM
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robx wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).

Rather than climb up yourself and lower him, you should have just had him clip his harness directly into 1 of the draws on the wall, then tie your rope to the end of their rope and rig your rope in your belay device, then have her go off belay, then have him unclip from the wall and lower him. You'd have him down in less than 5 minutes.


wonderwoman


Oct 9, 2012, 12:09 PM
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hugepedro wrote:
robx wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).

Rather than climb up yourself and lower him, you should have just had him clip his harness directly into 1 of the draws on the wall, then tie your rope to the end of their rope and rig your rope in your belay device, then have her go off belay, then have him unclip from the wall and lower him. You'd have him down in less than 5 minutes.

For this to work, the stuck climber would have to pull up all the rope on the belayer side in order to get them out of the quickdraws. Otherwise, the knot would have to be pulled through the quickdraws. Then you would have to assume the climber would be knowledgeable enough to thread the anchor.

Anyway - glad the OP was there to help out. Even if it was not apparent, I hope the stuck climbers reflected on what went wrong so they can learn from the experience.


wonderwoman


Oct 9, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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On further thought - Isn't clip-a-dee-doo-dah a 5.3 slab climb? Why not have the climber downclimb?


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 12:22 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
robx wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).

Rather than climb up yourself and lower him, you should have just had him clip his harness directly into 1 of the draws on the wall, then tie your rope to the end of their rope and rig your rope in your belay device, then have her go off belay, then have him unclip from the wall and lower him. You'd have him down in less than 5 minutes.

For this to work, the stuck climber would have to pull up all the rope on the belayer side in order to get them out of the quickdraws. Otherwise, the knot would have to be pulled through the quickdraws. Then you would have to assume the climber would be knowledgeable enough to thread the anchor.

Anyway - glad the OP was there to help out. Even if it was not apparent, I hope the stuck climbers reflected on what went wrong so they can learn from the experience.

I'm not familiar with the route, but I assumed he could clean any lower draws on the way down if they were in the way?


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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wonderwoman wrote:
On further thought - Isn't clip-a-dee-doo-dah a 5.3 slab climb? Why not have the climber downclimb?

Better yet, just lasso him and drag his lame ass down!


wonderwoman


Oct 9, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
robx wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).

Rather than climb up yourself and lower him, you should have just had him clip his harness directly into 1 of the draws on the wall, then tie your rope to the end of their rope and rig your rope in your belay device, then have her go off belay, then have him unclip from the wall and lower him. You'd have him down in less than 5 minutes.

For this to work, the stuck climber would have to pull up all the rope on the belayer side in order to get them out of the quickdraws. Otherwise, the knot would have to be pulled through the quickdraws. Then you would have to assume the climber would be knowledgeable enough to thread the anchor.

Anyway - glad the OP was there to help out. Even if it was not apparent, I hope the stuck climbers reflected on what went wrong so they can learn from the experience.

I'm not familiar with the route, but I assumed he could clean any lower draws on the way down if they were in the way?

Didn't he only have 8 feet of rope left before he was off belay? but if we are talking about a 5.3 slab climb, he should have just down climbed.

Here is the epic climb:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...e_Doo_Dah_18972.html


(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Oct 9, 2012, 12:29 PM)


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 12:34 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
robx wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).

Rather than climb up yourself and lower him, you should have just had him clip his harness directly into 1 of the draws on the wall, then tie your rope to the end of their rope and rig your rope in your belay device, then have her go off belay, then have him unclip from the wall and lower him. You'd have him down in less than 5 minutes.

For this to work, the stuck climber would have to pull up all the rope on the belayer side in order to get them out of the quickdraws. Otherwise, the knot would have to be pulled through the quickdraws. Then you would have to assume the climber would be knowledgeable enough to thread the anchor.

Anyway - glad the OP was there to help out. Even if it was not apparent, I hope the stuck climbers reflected on what went wrong so they can learn from the experience.

I'm not familiar with the route, but I assumed he could clean any lower draws on the way down if they were in the way?

Didn't he only have 8 feet of rope left before he was off belay? but if we are talking about a 5.3 slab climb, he should have just down climbed.

Here is the epic climb:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...e_Doo_Dah_18972.html

Call a cab to come pick him up, you could drive up there.


Gmburns2000


Oct 9, 2012, 12:53 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
On further thought - Isn't clip-a-dee-doo-dah a 5.3 slab climb? Why not have the climber downclimb?

no, the first poster said that HE had just finished climbing CDD when he came upon the mess.


Partner cracklover


Oct 9, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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Ugh, this thread is already such a muddled mess, but here goes...

wonderwoman wrote:
On further thought - Isn't clip-a-dee-doo-dah a 5.3 slab climb? Why not have the climber downclimb?

This didn't happen on Clip a Dee Doo Dah. The OP said that he and his partner had just finished Clip a Dee Doo Dah, while the party in question was on "the route next to it to the right", which in my old guidebook, is Standard Route a 5.3 trad route. It is described in Ward Smith's guidebook as follows:
In reply to:
A two-pitch wandering line up the vegetated slabs to the right

I still don't really understand what the OP says occurred, though. I don't understand what a munter hitch belay has to do with anything, or why the OP would belay the current belayer up the climb, when they already had a rope too short to get down - how does that help anything? Seems to me now you just have two stranded climbers two pitches up.

GO


wonderwoman


Oct 9, 2012, 1:03 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Ugh, this thread is already such a muddled mess, but here goes...

wonderwoman wrote:
On further thought - Isn't clip-a-dee-doo-dah a 5.3 slab climb? Why not have the climber downclimb?

This didn't happen on Clip a Dee Doo Dah. The OP said that he and his partner had just finished Clip a Dee Doo Dah, while the party in question was on "the route next to it to the right", which in my old guidebook, is Standard Route a 5.3 trad route. It is described in Ward Smith's guidebook as follows:
In reply to:
A two-pitch wandering line up the vegetated slabs to the right

I still don't really understand what the OP says occurred, though. I don't understand what a munter hitch belay has to do with anything, or why the OP would belay the current belayer up the climb, when they already had a rope too short to get down - how does that help anything? Seems to me now you just have two stranded climbers two pitches up.

GO

5.3 slab - trad or sport - either way, downclimbing would have been helpful.


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 1:07 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Ugh, this thread is already such a muddled mess, but here goes...

wonderwoman wrote:
On further thought - Isn't clip-a-dee-doo-dah a 5.3 slab climb? Why not have the climber downclimb?

This didn't happen on Clip a Dee Doo Dah. The OP said that he and his partner had just finished Clip a Dee Doo Dah, while the party in question was on "the route next to it to the right", which in my old guidebook, is Standard Route a 5.3 trad route. It is described in Ward Smith's guidebook as follows:
In reply to:
A two-pitch wandering line up the vegetated slabs to the right

I still don't really understand what the OP says occurred, though. I don't understand what a munter hitch belay has to do with anything, or why the OP would belay the current belayer up the climb, when they already had a rope too short to get down - how does that help anything? Seems to me now you just have two stranded climbers two pitches up.

GO

I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second?

I still don't understand why he didn't just tie his rope on theirs and finish lowering the guy. N00bs rescuing n00bs, I guess.


Partner cracklover


Oct 9, 2012, 1:19 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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OK, on further research, it looks like a new sport route was bolted there since my guidebook came out, and they were on Lady and the Tramp. Two pitch, 5.4, bolted.

Anyway...

To answer your question directly, robx - I have no idea what the deal was in the first situation, when you were still on CDDD, but in answer to the second situation, when you were at the base, it sounds like this was the situation:

Leader was getting lowered off pitch one of Lady and the Tramp, cleaning his draws as he went. His rope was roughly 30 feet too short. Am I describing correctly the scene you came upon? If so...

If there were no bolts in the first 30 feet, I would just tie my rope to his, pass the knot in the belay, and lower him the rest of the way.

If there were bolts in the first 30 feet, I would probably solo up to clean the draws, climb back down, and then do the same as above.

If there were bolts in the first 30 feet, and for whatever reason I didn't feel comfortable soloing it, I'd do the following:
1 - Tie my rope to theirs.
2 - Have the belayer lower the leader until the rope runs out.
3 - Put the leader on belay below the knot, and mule it off.
4 - Have the belayer take the leader off belay (now the leader is on me.)
5 - Climb the first 30 feet, using the leader as a counterweight to protect myself, cleaning the draws as I go.
6 - Once the climber is on the ground, and I have cleaned all the gear, undo the mule knot, and single-strand rappel (still using the leader as a counterweight) to the ground myself.

GO


Partner cracklover


Oct 9, 2012, 1:22 PM
Post #27 of 35 (1501 views)
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Re: [hugepedro] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second?

How does that help anything? Now you just have two climbers stranded with a too-short rope, instead of one.

In reply to:
I still don't understand why he didn't just tie his rope on theirs and finish lowering the guy. N00bs rescuing n00bs, I guess.

That's pretty much what I suggested.

GO


hugepedro


Oct 9, 2012, 2:16 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second?

How does that help anything? Now you just have two climbers stranded with a too-short rope, instead of one.

GO

Lots of assumptions here, but I assume he was going to suggest a munter hitch belay by the leader so that they would have a means of finishing the climbing and then using whatever standard descent is there, rather than trying to lower off.


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Oct 9, 2012, 2:41 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second?

How does that help anything? Now you just have two climbers stranded with a too-short rope, instead of one.

GO

Lots of assumptions here, but I assume he was going to suggest a munter hitch belay by the leader so that they would have a means of finishing the climbing and then using whatever standard descent is there, rather than trying to lower off.

Okay, that makes sense. In fact, I see that one of the comments on the route description on MP suggests that parties walk off. So perhaps that's what the OP had in mind. Certainly very unusual for Rumney, so I had no idea that's what he meant (if it is indeed what he had in mind).

GO


ClimbSoHigh


Oct 10, 2012, 10:16 AM
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Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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Since this took place on CDD with roped teams, I second the less of a gumby helping more of a gumby theory.

Assuming the guy was about to be lowered off the end of the rope, good to hear the OP got that safety knot tied in time, or this jumbled mess of an almost accident could have been an actual accident report.

To clarify the climb, the first 40 feet you can walk up standing up with no hands. The first pitch is over 30M long (guessing a 40M pitch), so you cannot double rope rap from the ledge on a single 60M rope. If you try you will come up about 30 feet short.

What really confuses me (other than the munter part) is that the party could not lower the climber back to the ground since there was not enough rope to do so, resulting in an almost accident. If you have enough rope for the leader to climb to the ledge, you also have enough rope to lower the same distance + rope stretch. Also, lowering the climber would strand the belayer on the 1/2 way ledge.

To save the day all you would have had to do when you got to the ledge is lower both of them single strand back to the ground. Then finish your climb.

Or you could help them fix their rope to the anchor, have them both rap single strand to the gournd, and then booty their rope. Think of it as helping to prevent future accidents.


jakedatc


Oct 10, 2012, 3:20 PM
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Re: [ClimbSoHigh] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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or they could have just swung over 10' to the woods and walked down.

it amazes me people rappel Clippity.. it takes 5 minutes to walk down and much longer to rap.. Crazy


jt512


Oct 10, 2012, 4:13 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
or they could have just swung over 10' to the woods and walked down.

it amazes me people rappel Clippity.. it takes 5 minutes to walk down and much longer to rap.. Crazy

N00bs rap. You know that.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 10, 2012, 5:34 PM
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Re: [jt512] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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I have only done clippity oce. Not familar with the terrain up there so I strapped a rope on my back and hiked up it and rapped back down. 60m made it fine. Find it hard to believe they retroed a rout to the right and did not rig it for 60's?
I would have simply walked up to the guy and coached him through whatever was nessicary to get out of his situation.


jakedatc


Oct 10, 2012, 9:09 PM
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Re: [jt512] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
or they could have just swung over 10' to the woods and walked down.

it amazes me people rappel Clippity.. it takes 5 minutes to walk down and much longer to rap.. Crazy

N00bs rap. You know that.

truth..


jakedatc


Oct 10, 2012, 9:13 PM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
I have only done clippity oce. Not familar with the terrain up there so I strapped a rope on my back and hiked up it and rapped back down. 60m made it fine. Find it hard to believe they retroed a rout to the right and did not rig it for 60's?
I would have simply walked up to the guy and coached him through whatever was nessicary to get out of his situation.

book says it takes 4 rappels to get down. i think if you go from just the first bolted anchor to the bottom you end up on this small "ledge" which is just a outcrop of the woods that you can walk down from. if they hadn't freaked out i bet they could have turned around and walked.. at the very least could have butt slid down. if it was not an exaggeration of 30' then they could have had 50m rope and came up way short.

If they were on lady and the tramp i'm not sure where you get with either length from P1 anchor..


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 10, 2012, 9:25 PM)


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