Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Fear of Lead Falls
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


Alimali


Oct 31, 2012, 8:57 PM
Post #1 of 47 (7669 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2012
Posts: 27

Fear of Lead Falls
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey, so I've been climbing for about 8 or 9 months. Lately I've been getting on the roof at my local climbing gym more regularly, which has been really fun, but I feel like my fear of lead falls (not just on the roof) is holding me back from making moves I know that I can do. On the other hand, it feels like a sensible thing to be cautious of.

Do other people still have this fear, no matter how long they've been climbing? Is it something that you should fear, and not something you should make efforts to overcome?

Or is it like on top-rope, where you need to stop freaking out about the heights aspect in order to get on with the climbing?


jt512


Oct 31, 2012, 9:13 PM
Post #2 of 47 (7658 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (8 ratings)  
Can't Post

Alimali wrote:
Hey, so I've been climbing for about 8 or 9 months. Lately I've been getting on the roof at my local climbing gym more regularly, which has been really fun, but I feel like my fear of lead falls (not just on the roof) is holding me back from making moves I know that I can do. On the other hand, it feels like a sensible thing to be cautious of.

Do other people still have this fear, no matter how long they've been climbing? Is it something that you should fear, and not something you should make efforts to overcome?

Or is it like on top-rope, where you need to stop freaking out about the heights aspect in order to get on with the climbing?

Although no fall is absolutely safe, some falls, when objectively analyzed, are reasonably safe, and if you are excessively afraid of reasonably safe falls, then your progress as a climber will be hindered. So climbers need to hone their skills at distinguishing reasonably safe falls from dangerous ones and learning to commit to climbing when the fall is reasonably safe. Much has been written on this subject, the best, IMO, by Arno Ilgner. I suggest, as a place to start, that you get hold of his book The Rock Warrior's Way.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Oct 31, 2012, 10:15 PM)


jomagam


Oct 31, 2012, 10:13 PM
Post #3 of 47 (7640 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 9, 2008
Posts: 364

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Keep climbing, take a few falls, and your fear will be less and less. Roofs just need some getting used to; it is a strange feeling to climb with your back to the ground.


bearbreeder


Oct 31, 2012, 11:43 PM
Post #4 of 47 (7625 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

if the fall is safe and your judgement good ... and yr belayer solid ... just take the effing fall ...

do it over and over again ...

and lead everything that has a "safe" fall and good gear/bolting ...

its that simple ... Wink


billl7


Nov 1, 2012, 11:16 AM
Post #5 of 47 (7513 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

(Answers above are more comprehensive.)

Sounds like your fear is enhanced when you are out on the roof in the gym? Seems like a natural uptick. While there is still the fear about hitting the floor or hitting someone on the floor, there is the added fear about a pendulum into a wall.

... well ... there's the above plus the fear that one won't be able to as easily "hang dog" the route into submission as on a vertical route. Wink

Bill L


jomagam


Nov 1, 2012, 11:26 AM
Post #6 of 47 (7509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 9, 2008
Posts: 364

Re: [billl7] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

billl7 wrote:
While there is still the fear about hitting the floor or hitting someone on the floor, there is the added fear about a pendulum into a wall.

That's not an issue in any of the gyms I've climbed at. The roof usually doesn't come after a vertical face, like on many climbs outside, but a progressively more overhanging wall that you have very little chance of penduluming into especially considering how close the bolts are in a gym.


billl7


Nov 1, 2012, 1:00 PM
Post #7 of 47 (7472 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [jomagam] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jomagam wrote:
billl7 wrote:
While there is still the fear about hitting the floor or hitting someone on the floor, there is the added fear about a pendulum into a wall.

That's not an issue in any of the gyms I've climbed at. The roof usually doesn't come after a vertical face, like on many climbs outside, but a progressively more overhanging wall that you have very little chance of penduluming into especially considering how close the bolts are in a gym.

I've been in gyms (and on climbs) where pendulum back into the wall is an issue.

In any case, our sense of how close we'll come to the ground often has more opportunity for tuning by experience at the point when just starting to climb out on roofs as is the OP.


theextremist04


Nov 1, 2012, 7:02 PM
Post #8 of 47 (7423 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 23, 2010
Posts: 189

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Also, falls on true roofs will be about the safest that there are- you'll fall more or less straight down and not hit anything.


Alimali


Nov 1, 2012, 7:04 PM
Post #9 of 47 (7417 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2012
Posts: 27

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for everyone's advice. I suppose, when I think about it, I'm scared of just lead falls in general. If anything, I'm less scared on the roof than on a slab or face, because I know I'm not going to hit the wall, and I'm so high up I know I'm not going to hit the ground.


madkiki


Nov 7, 2012, 9:53 AM
Post #10 of 47 (7190 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2004
Posts: 62

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I have a fear of falls myself at age 50.

One thing I noticed about climbing "Fear" is that you can overcome it, but at the same time the fear factor can easily return if you don't continue these challenges.

At the local climbing gym me and a friend do something we call the "Torpedo Drop." We are toproping and self-belaying with a Gri-Gri. Climb about half way up, take up the slack, tie a safety knot near the Gri-Gri, climb up with some slack, and then just drop. Do it again and again until you can drop with a lot more slack. Not good for the rope but it sure gets you used to dropping with less fear.

Have fun


bearbreeder


Nov 7, 2012, 10:25 AM
Post #11 of 47 (7168 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [madkiki] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

just take the lead fall ... its a gym for christ sakes ... just make sure you watch yr feet and have a good belayer ....

most gyms i know of you need to take a lead fall anyways for your lead certification

the "secret" is to lead everything in the gym you can ... and once you get up more than half way dont ask for a take, take the first fall ... after that you can work out the moves ...

or just take a whipper from the top ...


blueeyedclimber


Dec 3, 2012, 8:24 AM
Post #12 of 47 (6695 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [jt512] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Alimali wrote:
Hey, so I've been climbing for about 8 or 9 months. Lately I've been getting on the roof at my local climbing gym more regularly, which has been really fun, but I feel like my fear of lead falls (not just on the roof) is holding me back from making moves I know that I can do. On the other hand, it feels like a sensible thing to be cautious of.

Do other people still have this fear, no matter how long they've been climbing? Is it something that you should fear, and not something you should make efforts to overcome?

Or is it like on top-rope, where you need to stop freaking out about the heights aspect in order to get on with the climbing?

Although no fall is absolutely safe, some falls, when objectively analyzed, are reasonably safe, and if you are excessively afraid of reasonably safe falls, then your progress as a climber will be hindered. So climbers need to hone their skills at distinguishing reasonably safe falls from dangerous ones and learning to commit to climbing when the fall is reasonably safe. Much has been written on this subject, the best, IMO, by Arno Ilgner. I suggest, as a place to start, that you get hold of his book The Rock Warrior's Way.

Jay

^ THIS.

The key to being a safe climber and ALSO progressing is being able to analyze each situation as independent. Being able to quickly judge whether a fall is safe will allow you to commit. This comes with experience, observation, practice and common sense. Fear can hold you back but it can also save your life.

Josh


DemolitionRed


Dec 6, 2012, 2:25 PM
Post #13 of 47 (6539 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 30, 2012
Posts: 77

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I love slabs but its the one place I really don't want to take a fall, especially if there are jutting out bits underneath me. I've taken the skin off my elbows and knees from falling on slabs

There will be times when a fall is not a safe option. One is before your first quick-draw and second quick-draw when there is a good chance of hitting the ground and the other is when you have a wide ledge not far beneath you.
Vertical walls, above your second quick-draw, especially in gyms, are good places to fall. If you really start fearing the fall then you will find it hard to progress.
Deal with this now and don't let it fester.


Libbster


Dec 7, 2012, 6:53 AM
Post #14 of 47 (6454 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2012
Posts: 48

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ah I remember my first lead fall. I fell and my belayer botched catching me and I tried to grab back on to the wall. I ended up slamming the wall hanging upside down and my leg was tangled up in the rope. After I came down my heart was racing even though I was sitting for like 30 minutes.

Falling is apart of lead climbing, especially sport lead climbing.

Very rarley do I redpoint a route without falling once.

After awhile you get used to it and it can even be fun, JUST dont be the people who fall on purpose because that is stupid.

Part of rockclimbing is problem solving. If you are thinking about taking a risky move but the chances of you taking a big whipper or hitting the wall is increased you do what rock climbers do; problem solve and find a away to get through it.


kikitastrophe


Dec 7, 2012, 7:16 AM
Post #15 of 47 (6434 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2009
Posts: 25

Re: [jt512] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I find I can reduce my fear by sticking to a regular dose of "whipper wednesday" mandatory gym whippers if I haven't been sport climbing much. Pick a lead wall with a nice big over hang, climb to the top, let go. Try not to squeeeeeek


csproul


Dec 7, 2012, 7:21 AM
Post #16 of 47 (6432 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1767

Re: [Libbster] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Libbster wrote:
Ah I remember my first lead fall. I fell and my belayer botched catching me and I tried to grab back on to the wall. I ended up slamming the wall hanging upside down and my leg was tangled up in the rope. After I came down my heart was racing even though I was sitting for like 30 minutes.

Falling is apart of lead climbing, especially sport lead climbing.

Very rarley do I redpoint a route without falling once.

After awhile you get used to it and it can even be fun, JUST dont be the people who fall on purpose because that is stupid.

Part of rockclimbing is problem solving. If you are thinking about taking a risky move but the chances of you taking a big whipper or hitting the wall is increased you do what rock climbers do; problem solve and find a away to get through it.
What does this mean? If you fell while climbing a route, then it's not a redpoint. If you had not fallen on the route, then it still wouldn't be a redpoint (assuming you had not TRed or followed the pitch before), it'd be a flash or onsite.

And here's someone who knows a little something about climbing and disagrees with your advice about not falling on purpose:
http://www.davemacleod.com/...outof10climbers.html


(This post was edited by csproul on Dec 7, 2012, 7:24 AM)


Libbster


Dec 7, 2012, 9:34 AM
Post #17 of 47 (6380 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2012
Posts: 48

Re: [csproul] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just poor sentence structure. I was just saying that out off all the routes I attempt to redpoint I fall and fail.


Libbster


Dec 7, 2012, 9:39 AM
Post #18 of 47 (6376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2012
Posts: 48

Re: [csproul] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless


DaveE


Dec 7, 2012, 9:46 AM
Post #19 of 47 (6362 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2012
Posts: 5

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

As long as you are a couple bolts into the climb and your belayer is remotely competent, there is no way that you will hit the ground. Especially sport climbing in a gym, there is no way you will blow your last clip.

Get this in your head and the long, stretchy falls suddenly get fun :)

Dave

EDIT: As in remotely competent I mean someone with basic knowledge of how to belay. Gives slack when needed, Takes slack when it's not, Holds the break side always. Doesn't have to be flawless, but safe.

Maybe I should of said a belayer you trust.

Also, this advice is for climbing in a safe, controlled gym environment. Don't flame me about how this is terrible because having this mindset will kill someone climbing outside or something like that. There are only a select few I will let belay me when climbing trad or leading outside.


(This post was edited by DaveE on Dec 8, 2012, 11:10 AM)


shotwell


Dec 7, 2012, 10:27 AM
Post #20 of 47 (6339 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 366

Re: [DaveE] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

DaveE wrote:
As long as you are a couple bolts into the climb and your belayer is remotely competent, there is no way that you will hit the ground. Especially sport climbing in a gym, there is no way you will blow your last clip.

Get this in your head and the long, stretchy falls suddenly get fun :)

Dave

There are several people who have taken the whip with a belayer considered 'remotely competent.' Some of them are unfortunately no longer with us.

Belaying is a task that requires perfection, every time. Remotely competent is just not fucking good enough.

That being said, I have a very good belayer and fall frequently.


bearbreeder


Dec 7, 2012, 11:05 AM
Post #21 of 47 (6316 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [Libbster] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Libbster wrote:
Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless

if you are up high enough and theres nothing to hit on the way down ... its doesnt matter one bit

just because you dont get it doesnt mean its "reckless"


saint_john


Dec 7, 2012, 11:51 AM
Post #22 of 47 (6296 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2010
Posts: 494

Re: [DaveE] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

DaveE wrote:
As long as you are a couple bolts into the climb and your belayer is remotely competent, there is no way that you will hit the ground. Especially sport climbing in a gym, there is no way you will blow your last clip.
Dave


A climber can easily deck from the second, or even third, bolt if there's enough slack in the rope. Technically speaking too much slack can cause a climber to deck at any point on a climb. There was an article about this in R&I magazine last month.

My advice to the OP is this: Learn to recognize a safe potential fall from an unsafe potential fall.


DaveE


Dec 8, 2012, 10:46 AM
Post #23 of 47 (6208 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2012
Posts: 5

Re: [shotwell] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

saint_john wrote:
DaveE wrote:
As long as you are a couple bolts into the climb and your belayer is remotely competent, there is no way that you will hit the ground. Especially sport climbing in a gym, there is no way you will blow your last clip.
Dave


A climber can easily deck from the second, or even third, bolt if there's enough slack in the rope. Technically speaking too much slack can cause a climber to deck at any point on a climb. There was an article about this in R&I magazine last month.

My advice to the OP is this: Learn to recognize a safe potential fall from an unsafe potential fall.


I wouldn't call someone who leaves enough slack in the rope to let you hit the ground off the second or third bolt competent...

Recognizing an unsafe potential fall is extremely important though. Very well put. I hate clipping the second bolt when climbing outside. Often times the slack needed in the line to clip combined with the distance from the previous bolt is enough to hit the ground. That scares me.


(This post was edited by DaveE on Dec 8, 2012, 11:09 AM)


curt


Dec 9, 2012, 5:26 PM
Post #24 of 47 (6099 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18228

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
Libbster wrote:
Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless

if you are up high enough and theres nothing to hit on the way down ... its doesnt matter one bit

just because you dont get it doesnt mean its "reckless"

Perhaps not reckless--certainly stupid though.

Curt


bearbreeder


Dec 9, 2012, 5:33 PM
Post #25 of 47 (6087 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [curt] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

i think not climbing as hard as you can is stupid ...

as is TRing climbs that are well within your ability with clean falls and good gear

or being so scared on a lead with good gear and clean falls that you arent willing to take one ...

but thats other people's choice .... if they arent harming other people or the rock ...

of course RC is all about telling people how to climb Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 9, 2012, 5:34 PM)


curt


Dec 9, 2012, 10:00 PM
Post #26 of 47 (2448 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18228

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
i think not climbing as hard as you can is stupid ...

So, skipping 2 or 3 bolts to experience a more exhilarating fall is your definition of climbing hard? Interesting.

Curt


bearbreeder


Dec 9, 2012, 10:34 PM
Post #27 of 47 (2441 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [curt] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

curt wrote:

So, skipping 2 or 3 bolts to experience a more exhilarating fall is your definition of climbing hard? Interesting.

Curt

did i say that? .. methinks your making stuff up Wink

what i DID say is your definition of stupid aint absolute, nor is mine

but then this is RC, if you dont do as i say its STUPID

Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 9, 2012, 10:39 PM)


curt


Dec 9, 2012, 10:46 PM
Post #28 of 47 (2427 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18228

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
curt wrote:

So, skipping 2 or 3 bolts to experience a more exhilarating fall is your definition of climbing hard? Interesting.

Curt

did i say that? ..

You certainly seemed to. Perhaps you should reread this thread from the beginning, so you don't remain baffled concerning your own posts.

Curt


bearbreeder


Dec 9, 2012, 10:53 PM
Post #29 of 47 (2423 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [curt] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

curt wrote:

You certainly seemed to. Perhaps you should reread this thread from the beginning, so you don't remain baffled concerning your own posts.

Curt

perhaps you need reading glasses mista curt Wink

now youre telling people what they mean to say as well ... sweet !!!

give me the EXACT quote where i "said" that skipping bolts is climbing hard ..

can RC get any better ... now its "you said as i want you to say in my little brain" Tongue


granite_grrl


Dec 10, 2012, 4:59 AM
Post #30 of 47 (2403 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14761

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
Libbster wrote:
Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless

if you are up high enough and theres nothing to hit on the way down ... its doesnt matter one bit

just because you dont get it doesnt mean its "reckless"

Dumbass.


Libbster


Dec 10, 2012, 8:04 AM
Post #31 of 47 (2377 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2012
Posts: 48

Re: [granite_grrl] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm the dumbass? or the other guy?


curt


Dec 10, 2012, 8:07 AM
Post #32 of 47 (2375 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18228

Re: [Libbster] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Libbster wrote:
I'm the dumbass? or the other guy?

The other guy.

Curt


bearbreeder


Dec 10, 2012, 8:33 AM
Post #33 of 47 (2355 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [granite_grrl] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
Libbster wrote:
Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless

if you are up high enough and theres nothing to hit on the way down ... its doesnt matter one bit

just because you dont get it doesnt mean its "reckless"

Dumbass.

stupid gurl ... it doesnt mean its "reckless" .... where exactly did i say it was "climbing hard"

or do you equate "might not be reckless" ... to "climbing hard"

LOL

try againWink


granite_grrl


Dec 10, 2012, 9:23 AM
Post #34 of 47 (2342 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14761

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
Libbster wrote:
Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless

if you are up high enough and theres nothing to hit on the way down ... its doesnt matter one bit

just because you dont get it doesnt mean its "reckless"

Dumbass.

stupid gurl ... it doesnt mean its "reckless" .... where exactly did i say it was "climbing hard"

or do you equate "might not be reckless" ... to "climbing hard"

LOL

try againWink

Where did I say anything about climbing hard? You really do need to work on your reading comprehension. Dumbass.


bearbreeder


Dec 10, 2012, 9:30 AM
Post #35 of 47 (2338 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [granite_grrl] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
Libbster wrote:
Also I advocate taking practice falls. I don't have a problem with those. I did them all the time when I was practicing. What I meant was I've seen people skipping 2 or 3 bolts just so when the jump its a intense fall. I feel that is reckless

if you are up high enough and theres nothing to hit on the way down ... its doesnt matter one bit

just because you dont get it doesnt mean its "reckless"

Dumbass.

stupid gurl ... it doesnt mean its "reckless" .... where exactly did i say it was "climbing hard"

or do you equate "might not be reckless" ... to "climbing hard"

LOL

try againWink

Where did I say anything about climbing hard? You really do need to work on your reading comprehension. Dumbass.

projecting your fears into others then ... typical RC Wink

i bet you run around the crag shouting DUMBASS whenever someone takes a whipper Tongue


Syd


Dec 10, 2012, 8:10 PM
Post #36 of 47 (2297 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You feel fear because there is always a real chance of injury when leading. There's a lot of things you can do to reduce the risks - wear a helmet, use double ropes, climb within your ability, TR hard routes before leading them, have a very good belayer, take care of the rope crossing your legs, don't climb damp sandstone, etc, etc. However at some point, if you climb long enough, you are going to have a serious injury. Ankle injuries seem ubiquitous.


(This post was edited by Syd on Dec 10, 2012, 8:13 PM)


MikeDierson


Feb 7, 2013, 11:56 AM
Post #37 of 47 (2025 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 7, 2013
Posts: 18

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In my country the solution is simple. The climber is called names (kiciuś) and the belayer prevents them from deseding untill pitch is complete. Safe because this is after anchorbuilding skills have been dialed at the base level. Crude but effective.


Partner cracklover


Feb 7, 2013, 2:41 PM
Post #38 of 47 (1994 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9999

Re: [MikeDierson] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

MikeDierson wrote:
In my country the solution is simple. The climber is called names (kiciuś) and the belayer prevents them from deseding untill pitch is complete. Safe because this is after anchorbuilding skills have been dialed at the base level. Crude but effective.

Like your attempts at trolling?

GO


sbaclimber


Feb 10, 2013, 12:37 PM
Post #39 of 47 (1901 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 3069

Re: [cracklover] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
MikeDierson wrote:
In my country the solution is simple. The climber is called names (kiciuś) and the belayer prevents them from deseding untill pitch is complete. Safe because this is after anchorbuilding skills have been dialed at the base level. Crude but effective.

Like your attempts at trolling?

GO
Crude...yes.
Effective....thankfully, no. So far, most have had the sense to ignore this one.
Admittedly, after all the posts referencing "my country" I have been curious as which country "my country" is. Now I have a clue. Laugh

Edit: spilling


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 10, 2013, 12:38 PM)


jsunmatthews


Feb 10, 2013, 2:12 PM
Post #40 of 47 (1890 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 18, 2005
Posts: 87

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Anyone who says the thought of falling doesn't make their bum tighten a bit is lying or stupid. As you progress, you'll get a better feel of what a fall feels like. Don't avoid taking several falls on purpose. Learn to relax, let go, let the rope do it's thing. Study what the rope does when you fall. Learn to recognize when your feet are in a position that would cause the rope to tangle around them if you fell. No way through it but to do it, but don't lose the fear. Climbers without fear usually end up dead.


Syd


Feb 11, 2013, 9:59 AM
Post #41 of 47 (1847 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300

Re: [jsunmatthews] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jsunmatthews wrote:
Climbers without fear usually end up dead.

Plenty of climbers with fear end up dead too ;-)
Your point is a good one though ... complacency is a big killer. For example, 3 deaths in Australia in recent years from very experienced climbers, unroped, falling from the top of crags when walking about.


jsunmatthews


Feb 11, 2013, 10:20 AM
Post #42 of 47 (1840 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 18, 2005
Posts: 87

Re: [Syd] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

True dat!


Marylandclimber


Feb 11, 2013, 12:28 PM
Post #43 of 47 (1816 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 3, 2011
Posts: 224

Re: [jsunmatthews] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jsunmatthews wrote:
Anyone who says the thought of falling doesn't make their bum tighten a bit is lying or stupid. As you progress, you'll get a better feel of what a fall feels like. Don't avoid taking several falls on purpose. Learn to relax, let go, let the rope do it's thing. Study what the rope does when you fall. Learn to recognize when your feet are in a position that would cause the rope to tangle around them if you fell. No way through it but to do it, but don't lose the fear. Climbers without fear usually end up dead.

Perfectly Said.


chadnsc


Feb 11, 2013, 2:34 PM
Post #44 of 47 (1793 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
i think not climbing as hard as you can is stupid ...

as is TRing climbs that are well within your ability with clean falls and good gear

or being so scared on a lead with good gear and clean falls that you arent willing to take one ...

but thats other people's choice .... if they arent harming other people or the rock ...

of course RC is all about telling people how to climb Tongue


Ah the hypocrisy is strong with this one.

T3 simply because it's so blatant. Good job getting a few to bight though.


CrimpyFever


Feb 11, 2013, 2:53 PM
Post #45 of 47 (1788 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 16, 2013
Posts: 6

Re: [Alimali] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I had the exact same problem when I started and still do (particularily with clipping on crappy holds).

To get over lead falls I just kept falling.
Pick a route,
fall from the 2nd clip, pull up,
fall from the 3rd, pull up
fall from the 4th etc....
this really helps! the more you fall the less scary it will become!


bearbreeder


Feb 11, 2013, 6:32 PM
Post #46 of 47 (1758 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [chadnsc] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

chadnsc wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
i think not climbing as hard as you can is stupid ...

as is TRing climbs that are well within your ability with clean falls and good gear

or being so scared on a lead with good gear and clean falls that you arent willing to take one ...

but thats other people's choice .... if they arent harming other people or the rock ...

of course RC is all about telling people how to climb Tongue


Ah the hypocrisy is strong with this one.

T3 simply because it's so blatant. Good job getting a few to bight though.
Blah blah blah

And so the new year starts

Go take a few whippahs Wink


Libbster


Feb 12, 2013, 6:08 AM
Post #47 of 47 (1726 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2012
Posts: 48

Re: [bearbreeder] Fear of Lead Falls [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You know I don't really mind falling, usually because I can't comprehend what the hell is happening, just a huge blur


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$7.65 (10% off)
$3.56 (10% off)
$17.06 (10% off)
$5.85 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook