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granite_grrl
Dec 4, 2012, 6:04 PM
Post #94451 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else. Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces. Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though. they are more complicated.
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granite_grrl
Dec 4, 2012, 6:05 PM
Post #94452 of 105309
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Even so, Snupe should be doing his camalots himself.
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granite_grrl
Dec 4, 2012, 6:05 PM
Post #94453 of 105309
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One more because I carez.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 4, 2012, 6:09 PM
Post #94454 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life. LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING! And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing. And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard. And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great. I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week. Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb. Oh, a bit more unsolicited advice-- most folks I've talked to agree that slopers are pretty useless to train on hangboreds. Can't remember why, though. I only use slopers for warmup/cooldowns. And as for the plan of going until January, be aware that you will very likely hit a peak around 4-5 weeks in. It will be super obvious; you'll be plugging along, adding weight, improving quickly with each session, and then all the sudden, BOOM, no more improvement. After this point, you will not be making any more gains on the hangboard, and you should just move onto campusing. When I did my first cycle last year, I planned for 6 weeks of hangboreding, because, hey, I'm all rad like that, but barely 4 weeks into it I hit the peak. You just have to do what your body tells you to do. this thread helped me a lot: http://mountainproject.com/...07446290#a_107448606
Thanks! I love me some unsolicited advice. No seriously!
So, if the big slopers are out, do you just do crimps of various sizes? I have 3 hangboarss to choose from, but am having a hard time coming up with 5 holds that are different enough.
I don't like the choice of pinches on the hangboards, either -- they are positioned weirdly, and just seem like it is way too easy to cheat and get some extra help from changing wrist position and resting the heel of the palm on the hangboard, but I tried the pinches we have on 45degree systems wall, and those seemed much better, so I think I'll hang on those instead.
Do you think the 8-9 days long break from hangboarding for the holidays will mess up the cycle?
And I hope you are right about the improvement. Right now I still feel like I am figuring things out and changing which grips I would use and how many sets/timing, etc.
On Thursday we did 6 different holds, but only 3 sets each, and no weights. That's when I figured out that i would need to subtract weight for some holds.
Sunday I was setting... I don't know if you can call it climbing, but I felt exhausted.
Monday I was planning to do 6 sets of 6 on 6 holds, but ran out of time, and only could do 5 holds, but at least now I have everything in place, weights, pulley, etc.
Today is just laps or easy climbing.
Thursday should be another hangbored.
The weather for the weekend just took a turn for the worse, so might be another hangboring session on Saturday.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 4, 2012, 6:18 PM
Post #94455 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life. LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING! And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing. And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard. And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great. I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week. Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb. Oh, a bit more unsolicited advice-- most folks I've talked to agree that slopers are pretty useless to train on hangboreds. Can't remember why, though. I only use slopers for warmup/cooldowns. And as for the plan of going until January, be aware that you will very likely hit a peak around 4-5 weeks in. It will be super obvious; you'll be plugging along, adding weight, improving quickly with each session, and then all the sudden, BOOM, no more improvement. After this point, you will not be making any more gains on the hangboard, and you should just move onto campusing. When I did my first cycle last year, I planned for 6 weeks of hangboreding, because, hey, I'm all rad like that, but barely 4 weeks into it I hit the peak. You just have to do what your body tells you to do. this thread helped me a lot: http://mountainproject.com/...07446290#a_107448606
So reading through that thread, more Qs. Do you do only 3 sets of 6 on each hold?, not 6 sets of 6 on 6 holds?
I can see that doing fewer sets will allow me to add more weight...
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caughtinside
Dec 4, 2012, 6:33 PM
Post #94456 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.
I have Fish do all mine. Shoot him an email. i don't know if he still does them, I think he declared it isn't worth his time for the $4 he charges or whatever. He could do your #3 too.
I think the gearheads shop in moab has a guy that does them too... not sure. My friend Seth can also do them, but he's in telluride now.
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caughtinside
Dec 4, 2012, 6:35 PM
Post #94457 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: Even so, Snupe should be doing his camalots himself.
Meh. It's hardly worth it to buy that kit and own that tool unless you are doing them all the time.
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snoopy138
Dec 4, 2012, 6:36 PM
Post #94458 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else. Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces. Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though. they are more complicated.
yeah, that did not look like something I'd be able to do. BD, probably could figure that out.
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snoopy138
Dec 4, 2012, 6:37 PM
Post #94459 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else. Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces. Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though. they are more complicated. At least as complicated as getting this PT?
sounds like gg carez
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camhead
Dec 4, 2012, 6:39 PM
Post #94460 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life. LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING! And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing. And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard. And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great. I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week. Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb. Oh, a bit more unsolicited advice-- most folks I've talked to agree that slopers are pretty useless to train on hangboreds. Can't remember why, though. I only use slopers for warmup/cooldowns. And as for the plan of going until January, be aware that you will very likely hit a peak around 4-5 weeks in. It will be super obvious; you'll be plugging along, adding weight, improving quickly with each session, and then all the sudden, BOOM, no more improvement. After this point, you will not be making any more gains on the hangboard, and you should just move onto campusing. When I did my first cycle last year, I planned for 6 weeks of hangboreding, because, hey, I'm all rad like that, but barely 4 weeks into it I hit the peak. You just have to do what your body tells you to do. this thread helped me a lot: http://mountainproject.com/...07446290#a_107448606So reading through that thread, more Qs. Do you do only 3 sets of 6 on each hold?, not 6 sets of 6 on 6 holds? I can see that doing fewer sets will allow me to add more weight...
Yes. Each hold gets three sets, and it has always worn me out quite a bit. Check your facespace msgs for my detailed rundown.
As for the earlier slopers thing, manderson always said that 1) you rarely have to use pure sloper strength on a route, and, when you do,
2) it is usually the same muscles that you would use for an open-handed sloping one-pad edge, so just train that.
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camhead
Dec 4, 2012, 6:43 PM
Post #94461 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life. LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING! And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing. And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard. And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great. I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week. Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb. Oh, a bit more unsolicited advice-- most folks I've talked to agree that slopers are pretty useless to train on hangboreds. Can't remember why, though. I only use slopers for warmup/cooldowns. And as for the plan of going until January, be aware that you will very likely hit a peak around 4-5 weeks in. It will be super obvious; you'll be plugging along, adding weight, improving quickly with each session, and then all the sudden, BOOM, no more improvement. After this point, you will not be making any more gains on the hangboard, and you should just move onto campusing. When I did my first cycle last year, I planned for 6 weeks of hangboreding, because, hey, I'm all rad like that, but barely 4 weeks into it I hit the peak. You just have to do what your body tells you to do. this thread helped me a lot: http://mountainproject.com/...07446290#a_107448606So reading through that thread, more Qs. Do you do only 3 sets of 6 on each hold?, not 6 sets of 6 on 6 holds? I can see that doing fewer sets will allow me to add more weight...
Oh, and regarding yore earlier comment about pinches, I agree that most hangboards that have pinches are WAY too easy.
If you really want to work your pinch strength, find a pair of hard sloping pinch holds, bolt them to a 45 degree bouldering wall as far apart as you want them, and hang on those for your workout.
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snoopy138
Dec 4, 2012, 6:44 PM
Post #94462 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else. I have Fish do all mine. Shoot him an email. i don't know if he still does them, I think he declared it isn't worth his time for the $4 he charges or whatever. He could do your #3 too. I think the gearheads shop in moab has a guy that does them too... not sure. My friend Seth can also do them, but he's in telluride now.
the info@fishproducts e-mail, or is there a better one to use?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 4, 2012, 7:42 PM
Post #94463 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life. LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING! And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing. And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard. And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great. I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week. Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb. Oh, a bit more unsolicited advice-- most folks I've talked to agree that slopers are pretty useless to train on hangboreds. Can't remember why, though. I only use slopers for warmup/cooldowns. And as for the plan of going until January, be aware that you will very likely hit a peak around 4-5 weeks in. It will be super obvious; you'll be plugging along, adding weight, improving quickly with each session, and then all the sudden, BOOM, no more improvement. After this point, you will not be making any more gains on the hangboard, and you should just move onto campusing. When I did my first cycle last year, I planned for 6 weeks of hangboreding, because, hey, I'm all rad like that, but barely 4 weeks into it I hit the peak. You just have to do what your body tells you to do. this thread helped me a lot: http://mountainproject.com/...07446290#a_107448606So reading through that thread, more Qs. Do you do only 3 sets of 6 on each hold?, not 6 sets of 6 on 6 holds? I can see that doing fewer sets will allow me to add more weight... Oh, and regarding yore earlier comment about pinches, I agree that most hangboards that have pinches are WAY too easy. If you really want to work your pinch strength, find a pair of hard sloping pinch holds, bolt them to a 45 degree bouldering wall as far apart as you want them, and hang on those for your workout.
Your GU is showing, wipe it off! That's exactly what I said I did, for the pinches.
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carabiner96
Dec 4, 2012, 11:31 PM
Post #94464 of 105309
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I got Poppa ashamed enough to delete a FB post. He puts up aGlen Beck worthy rant against the UN and ADA treaty that failed to get ratified (nice werk, limp dicks). I was just like, 'Um, Dad? You know you have a disabled daughter that, 23 years ago, could have legally been refused the job I have now? Yeah.'
Deleshunz were instantaneous! Not sure why I refreinded him after the road trip from hell.
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carabiner96
Dec 4, 2012, 11:37 PM
Post #94465 of 105309
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PM me your address if you want a Beck family Atheist Christmas Channukah card. When we moved I found last years card to the marmots, maybe a few more of you, that had been stamped but never addressed, so never sent out. I promise to have my shit together more this year.
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caughtinside
Dec 4, 2012, 11:39 PM
Post #94466 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else. I have Fish do all mine. Shoot him an email. i don't know if he still does them, I think he declared it isn't worth his time for the $4 he charges or whatever. He could do your #3 too. I think the gearheads shop in moab has a guy that does them too... not sure. My friend Seth can also do them, but he's in telluride now. the info@fishproducts e-mail, or is there a better one to use?
that one works. Several exist... but they all go to the same place. If you want to get extra slow response, tell him you know cottonside.
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camhead
Dec 5, 2012, 12:09 AM
Post #94467 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: I got Poppa ashamed enough to delete a FB post. He puts up aGlen Beck worthy rant against the UN and ADA treaty that failed to get ratified (nice werk, limp dicks). I was just like, 'Um, Dad? You know you have a disabled daughter that, 23 years ago, could have legally been refused the job I have now? Yeah.' Deleshunz were instantaneous! Not sure why I refreinded him after the road trip from hell.
I hope you took a screenshot before the deleshunz.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 5, 2012, 12:22 PM
Post #94469 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: PM me your address if you want a Beck family Atheist Christmas Channukah card. When we moved I found last years card to the marmots, maybe a few more of you, that had been stamped but never addressed, so never sent out. I promise to have my shit together more this year.  This year you have to send us both. 
'biner has a posh job now, protected by her disability status, no less! She can afford to send postcards to Canada now, yeah!
Speaking of, I don't have your addy, either.
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granite_grrl
Dec 5, 2012, 12:37 PM
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: PM me your address if you want a Beck family Atheist Christmas Channukah card. When we moved I found last years card to the marmots, maybe a few more of you, that had been stamped but never addressed, so never sent out. I promise to have my shit together more this year. This year you have to send us both. 'biner has a posh job now, protected by her disability status, no less! She can afford to send postcards to Canada now, yeah! Speaking of, I don't have your addy, either.
Grupe.
I would love to try doing xmas cards, but that would involve having the time for it. Do you guys take them to a shop and get them printed or do you do it at home? I don't know how up to date the photos that I have at home are but I might be able to chop something together.
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camhead
Dec 5, 2012, 12:51 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: PM me your address if you want a Beck family Atheist Christmas Channukah card. When we moved I found last years card to the marmots, maybe a few more of you, that had been stamped but never addressed, so never sent out. I promise to have my shit together more this year. This year you have to send us both. 'biner has a posh job now, protected by her disability status, no less! She can afford to send postcards to Canada now, yeah! Speaking of, I don't have your addy, either. Grupe. I would love to try doing xmas cards, but that would involve having the time for it. Do you guys take them to a shop and get them printed or do you do it at home? I don't know how up to date the photos that I have at home are but I might be able to chop something together.
There are a bunch of websites that you can just upload a bad pic, like of you, Chossy, and Calvin, and then choose the card. It's pretty easy. I'm not sure if there are any that will also send them all out for you, too. That would be awesomely lazy.
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camhead
Dec 5, 2012, 1:15 PM
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weakass report:
Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.
Pretty weke, after not climbing at all for a couple weeks. Could not finish a set on the shallow two-finger pocket. Could not do any holds with weight added, and I'm not sure yet how I'm going to deal with adding 35 lbs, given that I'll be dropping off the board onto one foot.
Still, I'll be psyched to ease back into it for the next couple months. Tony offered to waive my membership fee while I was injured, but I think I'll keep going in.
The biggest challenge by far was trying to crutch through all the stacks of boulder pads.
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lena_chita
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Dec 5, 2012, 1:37 PM
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camhead wrote: weakass report: Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.
Do you have this one?
http://thedrcc.com/....php?products_id=201
That's the one we have in the gym, too, but I would have thought that all the holds on it are too big for you? They seem too big for me-- I am doing the outermost/lowest crimps, and the lower/center slomper. On those crimps I am subtracting 20 lb for now, and the center slomper gets -10lb. But all the rest of the holds seem like jugs? Which holds are you using?
camhead wrote: Pretty weke, after not climbing at all for a couple weeks. Could not finish a set on the shallow two-finger pocket. Could not do any holds with weight added, and I'm not sure yet how I'm going to deal with adding 35 lbs, given that I'll be dropping off the board onto one foot. Still, I'll be psyched to ease back into it for the next couple months. Tony offered to waive my membership fee while I was injured, but I think I'll keep going in. The biggest challenge by far was trying to crutch through all the stacks of boulder pads.
You are going to have kickass balance after all this is done... but only on one foot.
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camhead
Dec 5, 2012, 2:53 PM
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: weakass report: Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of. Do you have this one? http://thedrcc.com/....php?products_id=201
Yup. All but the smallest two sizes are a bit too big for me. Another complaint that I have is that all the manufacturers tend to put the very smallest sizes in the middle of the board, which sucks. You wind up training the hard stuff from a fucking tyrannosaurus position.
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lena_chita
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Dec 5, 2012, 4:42 PM
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: weakass report: Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of. Do you have this one? http://thedrcc.com/....php?products_id=201 Yup. All but the smallest two sizes are a bit too big for me. Another complaint that I have is that all the manufacturers tend to put the very smallest sizes in the middle of the board, which sucks. You wind up training the hard stuff from a fucking tyrannosaurus position.
Well, not so on the Moonboard...
But yeah, I am already hating the one slomper in the middle.
The more I think about it, the more it seems that buying a hangboard is a waste of money for almost anyone, regardless of the level. Seems like you are better off just buying a couple of holds that you want to use, and bolting/screwing them onto a woody.
Of course it is a moot point bc I have not bought any of the boards that i have, and at the gym I can pick and choose between several hangboards, or bolting the holds onto the systems wall.
Still haven't found anything that would have good pockets.
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