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Odd Lead Fall
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Syd


Dec 15, 2012, 2:17 AM
Post #26 of 32 (1059 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
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Re: [jgsahm3] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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jgsahm3 wrote:

P.S. In reply to Syd: I don't know if you are trying to say I shouldn't be lead climbing or if it was just a reply to that video, but if you were trying to say that to me then I really don't appreciate that.

I said: "I reckon that at least half the people I've seen leading shouldn't be, because like the guy in the video, they don't have a clue. " I have never seen you climb nor spoken to you, so I have no idea whether you have any idea what you are doing or not.

There is a huge range of things that people can get wrong when leading. My view is that it is best to get plenty of experience first before leading outdoors. Experience may be gained by top roping, watching people, talking to good climbers, leading indoors, etc.

I assume you were smart enough to be wearing a helemt ?


shotwell


Dec 15, 2012, 6:21 AM
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Re: [jgsahm3] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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jgsahm3 wrote:
Climbing a 20-30 foot boulder V0 is a little different than climbing a 40-50 foot wall and having to stop to clip draws (even though clipping doesn't take more than a second or 2). I never free soloed something I wasn't 100% sure I could do without a fall. Also, I no longer will be free soloing anymore (Whether or not I know I can do it) the only time I did it was while I lived in California and didn't have the gear to lead/toprope or run harder boulder problems with a crash pad.

I didn't mean to make it seem like I go out and try v5's free solo. I do appreciate the concern though.


Edit before I stop monitoring the thread:
One last time I really appreciate all the advice. From the concerns of my safety to the advice on how to improve lead climbing and what I can do to make sure something that could have been prevented doesn't happen again. All of it has really opened my eyes to a lot of different factors in climbing. Thank you all :D

Hopefully you're still reading, but Jay is right. No bullshit. 20-30 feet can definitely get you killed and v0 is a pretty damn broad spectrum. Realistic v0 should be as hard as 5.10. What will you do if you wind up high above the deck on a sustained boulder problem with a hard crux? Downclimb? You clearly don't have the reserves. Cut that shit out until you have the experience and skill to do it safely (though it is clear you don't have anywhere near the judgement you'll need to figure that out.)


Syd


Dec 15, 2012, 11:39 AM
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Re: [shotwell] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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shotwell wrote:

Hopefully you're still reading, but Jay is right. No bullshit. 20-30 feet can definitely get you killed

There's a video on youtube of a guy bouldering and falling from about 1 metre off the ground. You can hear his leg break when he his his mat. Nice !

Interestingly though, 50% of babies dropped from 3 stories survive. 100% die from 5 stories.

Unless you're a baby, falls can kill or seriously injure you.


jgsahm3


Dec 15, 2012, 12:09 PM
Post #29 of 32 (1014 views)
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Re: [Syd] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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Yes I was wearing a helmet while leading and like I said before Im not going to be free soloing anymore.

shotwell wrote:
(though it is clear you don't have anywhere near the judgement you'll need to figure that out.)

Thanks for telling me how much judgment I have.

I topped out a 5.9 that overhung for the first 3/4 leading and still had the energy to do it again after (Not saying this is some ridiculous feat in general, but it was good in terms of myself). The 5.7 I fell on was a careless mistake. While preparing to take the intentional fall I let my hand slip on a grip I could have easily held on to for the rest of the day if I had to.

This thread was created so I could figure out what could have happened during the fall and what I could have improved upon in falling to keep myself safe. Not to start criticizing what I am able to do. Yes I have made some stupid decisions in climbing (Leading things I probably shouldn't have started leading on, solo freeclimbing), but honestly everyone makes dumb decisions in their life and I have learned from these experiences and taken the advice given to me by this thread to actually start improving my leading and being a safer climber in general.


(This post was edited by jgsahm3 on Dec 15, 2012, 4:02 PM)


amarius


Dec 16, 2012, 5:04 AM
Post #30 of 32 (954 views)
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Registered: Feb 23, 2012
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Re: [jgsahm3] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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I am a certified instructor at other discipline. We are taught a whole bunch of things in our teaching process.
Two are quite relevant in this context -
1. How to give constructive criticism
2. How to take criticism

#1 is probably of no use to you at this point.
#2 can be summed up like this - "mia culpa"/ "Thank you sir, may I have another". Or in less cheeky terms - you need to thank for input, no explanation is required for your actions. You may or may not chose to heed the advice, but everybody will be happy to have their advice heard.


surfstar


Dec 17, 2012, 8:29 AM
Post #31 of 32 (891 views)
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Registered: May 30, 2011
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Re: [jgsahm3] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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This gym souds awesome:
No lead test?
Helmet?
Bolts well off-center of the route?
"free-soloing" allowed?


Libbster


Dec 17, 2012, 9:33 AM
Post #32 of 32 (879 views)
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Registered: Oct 16, 2012
Posts: 48

Re: [jgsahm3] Odd Lead Fall [In reply to]
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Same thing happened to me first time. There is an infinite amount of possibilites that could have happened.

I will give you two ideas that maybe you could narrow down. These happened to me

First....I didnt really land right- Like I didnt use my legs in time...so by the time my fall was arrested I flipped upside down- I either grabed the top rope that was just hanging there in a split second OR just a theory but- I had my knot tied at the bottom of harness...therefore since I didnt use my legs properly it pulled me upside down.

Just an idea

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