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granite_grrl
Jan 17, 2013, 6:26 PM
Post #95751 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and several topix back, but Beccs and Lena both look better with longer (shoulder length) hair. Biner definitely is more of a long-hair wearer, too. I would assume that kel is as well. So, that's my opinion, man, from a dude who doesn't really matter. Is it round face => long hair/ long face => short hair? Or the other way around? I think I would look better with bangs but my hair dresser refuses to give them to me. He says they'll be too long in no time and I'm going to be too lazy to go in and get them fixed up. He refuses to give you the bangs? Some hair stylists are gay. Or have moral principles. Or something like that. He's just an old friend and knows I won't do the up keep.
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granite_grrl
Jan 17, 2013, 6:28 PM
Post #95752 of 105309
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macherry wrote: epoch wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Paid ski day to Vahl today...if only there were snow! Been dry and way cold here for a month... no pow. Where have you been? Tahoe was slammed over Christmas/New Years. There was a storm last week... Plenty of snow in between storms and this year overall to not rock ski, otherwise... lots of snow in canuckistan No there's not.
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meatbomz
Jan 17, 2013, 9:36 PM
Post #95753 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: So CI I noticed yore buddy Will wus looking for partners.... I pm'd him an invite to teh BET meetup this weekend. Told him to drag teh fish and snooze owt with him. Hopefully they will show. I also invited him owt to teh hole when it gets back in season. I also has teh big local crew cumming this weekend. We are probibly going owt to teh mexi place for dinner and drinks on sat nite. oh yeah? I missed the will thing. That'd be rad if he shows. I did email Fish and Sooze but they're working on a project and are non committal. I'm hoping they'll pop out for a day, but we'll see. I got one guy coming down with me. Never climbed with him outdoors before but he does fine in the gym and he emailed me yesterday about climbing so I said come on down. The rest of the local posse is all climbing in the valley. Terrierist is in of course. Which Mexican are we in for? That big place? Or the one with the taxidermy? I think I may prefer the food at the taxidermy spot, but I know you're friends with the other guys, I'll do either. snupe, you can crash on our floor sat night if you like. Teh will thing wus on MP and wtf fish and snooze are non committial? fuk teh e-mail, get on teh blower and talk directly to them. Get them owt there... tell them to bring Blitzo and any other losers that are hanging owt at teh compound. Just talked to teh smurf... he says he's in. Big Tony and his babe terri will be there. Nino, Nate, Brent, Sam, Brian... will awl be there. Probibly go to teh big place.... drinks are better and I noes teh guys there. Nau it's up to ewe... get on teh blower and gets teh fish, snooze and blitzo there. Due it nau! NAU!!!1 teh asiant and teh AB *RIP, PO CIz BLL* have still not responded. It's a fucking jamboree
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caughtinside
Jan 17, 2013, 9:49 PM
Post #95754 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed.
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snoopy138
Jan 17, 2013, 9:49 PM
Post #95755 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: So CI I noticed yore buddy Will wus looking for partners.... I pm'd him an invite to teh BET meetup this weekend. Told him to drag teh fish and snooze owt with him. Hopefully they will show. I also invited him owt to teh hole when it gets back in season. I also has teh big local crew cumming this weekend. We are probibly going owt to teh mexi place for dinner and drinks on sat nite. oh yeah? I missed the will thing. That'd be rad if he shows. I did email Fish and Sooze but they're working on a project and are non committal. I'm hoping they'll pop out for a day, but we'll see. I got one guy coming down with me. Never climbed with him outdoors before but he does fine in the gym and he emailed me yesterday about climbing so I said come on down. The rest of the local posse is all climbing in the valley. Terrierist is in of course. Which Mexican are we in for? That big place? Or the one with the taxidermy? I think I may prefer the food at the taxidermy spot, but I know you're friends with the other guys, I'll do either. snupe, you can crash on our floor sat night if you like. Teh will thing wus on MP and wtf fish and snooze are non committial? fuk teh e-mail, get on teh blower and talk directly to them. Get them owt there... tell them to bring Blitzo and any other losers that are hanging owt at teh compound. Just talked to teh smurf... he says he's in. Big Tony and his babe terri will be there. Nino, Nate, Brent, Sam, Brian... will awl be there. Probibly go to teh big place.... drinks are better and I noes teh guys there. Nau it's up to ewe... get on teh blower and gets teh fish, snooze and blitzo there. Due it nau! NAU!!!1 teh asiant and teh AB *RIP, PO CIz BLL* have still not responded. It's a fucking jamboree I'll be rolling owt their with teh asiant ... CI, I told her she could probibly find a spot on teh floor for zatyrday night.
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snoopy138
Jan 17, 2013, 9:50 PM
Post #95756 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed. and yore just admitting this and coming clean? seems very unlike ewe.
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meatbomz
Jan 17, 2013, 9:55 PM
Post #95757 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed. You're a disgrace.
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tripperjm
Jan 17, 2013, 10:00 PM
Post #95758 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: So CI I noticed yore buddy Will wus looking for partners.... I pm'd him an invite to teh BET meetup this weekend. Told him to drag teh fish and snooze owt with him. Hopefully they will show. I also invited him owt to teh hole when it gets back in season. I also has teh big local crew cumming this weekend. We are probibly going owt to teh mexi place for dinner and drinks on sat nite. oh yeah? I missed the will thing. That'd be rad if he shows. I did email Fish and Sooze but they're working on a project and are non committal. I'm hoping they'll pop out for a day, but we'll see. I got one guy coming down with me. Never climbed with him outdoors before but he does fine in the gym and he emailed me yesterday about climbing so I said come on down. The rest of the local posse is all climbing in the valley. Terrierist is in of course. Which Mexican are we in for? That big place? Or the one with the taxidermy? I think I may prefer the food at the taxidermy spot, but I know you're friends with the other guys, I'll do either. snupe, you can crash on our floor sat night if you like. Teh will thing wus on MP and wtf fish and snooze are non committial? fuk teh e-mail, get on teh blower and talk directly to them. Get them owt there... tell them to bring Blitzo and any other losers that are hanging owt at teh compound. Just talked to teh smurf... he says he's in. Big Tony and his babe terri will be there. Nino, Nate, Brent, Sam, Brian... will awl be there. Probibly go to teh big place.... drinks are better and I noes teh guys there. Nau it's up to ewe... get on teh blower and gets teh fish, snooze and blitzo there. Due it nau! NAU!!!1 teh asiant and teh AB *RIP, PO CIz BLL* have still not responded. It's a fucking jamboree Well, as we awl noes.... teh klown has proven to be hard to kill. I fingered that ifs we had more assassins, mabe we cood actually kill teh klown this tyme around.
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tripperjm
Jan 17, 2013, 10:01 PM
Post #95759 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed. But, uhumm... that knot teh BET way.
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tripperjm
Jan 17, 2013, 10:04 PM
Post #95760 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: So CI I noticed yore buddy Will wus looking for partners.... I pm'd him an invite to teh BET meetup this weekend. Told him to drag teh fish and snooze owt with him. Hopefully they will show. I also invited him owt to teh hole when it gets back in season. I also has teh big local crew cumming this weekend. We are probibly going owt to teh mexi place for dinner and drinks on sat nite. oh yeah? I missed the will thing. That'd be rad if he shows. I did email Fish and Sooze but they're working on a project and are non committal. I'm hoping they'll pop out for a day, but we'll see. I got one guy coming down with me. Never climbed with him outdoors before but he does fine in the gym and he emailed me yesterday about climbing so I said come on down. The rest of the local posse is all climbing in the valley. Terrierist is in of course. Which Mexican are we in for? That big place? Or the one with the taxidermy? I think I may prefer the food at the taxidermy spot, but I know you're friends with the other guys, I'll do either. snupe, you can crash on our floor sat night if you like. Teh will thing wus on MP and wtf fish and snooze are non committial? fuk teh e-mail, get on teh blower and talk directly to them. Get them owt there... tell them to bring Blitzo and any other losers that are hanging owt at teh compound. Just talked to teh smurf... he says he's in. Big Tony and his babe terri will be there. Nino, Nate, Brent, Sam, Brian... will awl be there. Probibly go to teh big place.... drinks are better and I noes teh guys there. Nau it's up to ewe... get on teh blower and gets teh fish, snooze and blitzo there. Due it nau! NAU!!!1 teh asiant and teh AB *RIP, PO CIz BLL* have still not responded. It's a fucking jamboree I'll be rolling owt their with teh asiant ... CI, I told her she could probibly find a spot on teh floor for zatyrday night. Just makes sure she brings her ninja shitz.... We really due kneed to kill teh klown this tyme.
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macherry
Jan 17, 2013, 10:09 PM
Post #95761 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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granite_grrl wrote: macherry wrote: epoch wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Paid ski day to Vahl today...if only there were snow! Been dry and way cold here for a month... no pow. Where have you been? Tahoe was slammed over Christmas/New Years. There was a storm last week... Plenty of snow in between storms and this year overall to not rock ski, otherwise... lots of snow in canuckistan No there's not. wrong province
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tripperjm
Jan 17, 2013, 10:11 PM
Post #95762 of 105309
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In other news... I noticed that teh losers in teh spci finally made 40k. So I thought I wood stroll over and offer them my gongratulations. But I thinks hopes that I wus able to rain on there parade.
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tripperjm
Jan 17, 2013, 10:16 PM
Post #95763 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed. and yore just admitting this and coming clean? seems very unlike ewe. Whut ewe talking about willis??? CI iz a pilliar ov honesty and integri.... Well, uhumm... OK, yore rite. fuking loser deleate monkey.
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tripperjm
Jan 17, 2013, 10:16 PM
Post #95764 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed. You're a disgrace. Yore just fingering this owt nau?
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caughtinside
Jan 18, 2013, 1:00 AM
Post #95765 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: WHY???? Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill? after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed. and yore just admitting this and coming clean? seems very unlike ewe. Whut ewe talking about willis??? CI iz a pilliar ov honesty and integri.... That's me!
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 2:36 AM
Post #95766 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 18, 2013, 12:36 PM
Post #95767 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs. Yay, I will have a partner for RRG spring season. I try to feel your pain, but... No, I haven't done Encores, but they would be hard. J-teh-boi was dicking around with them on the hangbored, and also with hang-until-you-fall, bc the hangbored repeater was too boring and regimented for him. As far as hangbored, I am up to 20 lb on the easiest hold, 15 lb on 4 other holds, and no weight on 6th hold. Planning to up it all by 5lb tonight. I was going to do the hangbored for 2 more weeks (should i do 3?) and then switch to campus (really need input here, bc Manderson is not nearly as specific about this as he is about hangbored.). 1) Debating whether to add systems board to campus, also, bc I cannot see campusing session lasting very long for me. 2)Not sure how long to do the campusing, and when to switch to PE, and how to do the PE, other than 4x4s.
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granite_grrl
Jan 18, 2013, 12:48 PM
Post #95768 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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So Nathan is competing in Switzerland this morning. He is #37 of 39 in his group (I think that's right....) and the men's quialifier rounds start at 9:15am Eastern time. This is the link for the live feed: http://www.swiss-sport.tv/index.php?id=19 I have a meeting at 10:30 this morning though....if I can figure out the approxomite time that Nathan will compete (I dunno 11:30? noon?) and I'm still in the meeting I hope I can excuse myself.
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granite_grrl
Jan 18, 2013, 12:53 PM
Post #95769 of 105309
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fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 2:46 PM
Post #95770 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs. Yay, I will have a partner for RRG spring season. I try to feel your pain, but... No, I haven't done Encores, but they would be hard. J-teh-boi was dicking around with them on the hangbored, and also with hang-until-you-fall, bc the hangbored repeater was too boring and regimented for him. As far as hangbored, I am up to 20 lb on the easiest hold, 15 lb on 4 other holds, and no weight on 6th hold. Planning to up it all by 5lb tonight. I was going to do the hangbored for 2 more weeks (should i do 3?) and then switch to campus ( really need input here, bc Manderson is not nearly as specific about this as he is about hangbored.). 1) Debating whether to add systems board to campus, also, bc I cannot see campusing session lasting very long for me. 2)Not sure how long to do the campusing, and when to switch to PE, and how to do the PE, other than 4x4s. Campusing was less regimented for me; I started by searching youtube videos to see what pros were doing on the campus bored. There's a good one of Sonny Trotter doing some different exercises; some of them will work, others will not. I could send you a rundown of some different campus routines I did. And above all, even more than handboarding, with campusing you need to rest a LOT between sets. Like, 5 minutes or more. Though, on the plus side, campusing did not completely wear my body down for days afterward as much as hangboreding did. For PE, 4x4s are great, though you want to make sure you find problems that are easy enough; you'll be surprised what you can fall off of at the end of the set. Or, if possible, try to set a lap of numbers (around 25 moves long), on the bouldering wall, which you can do with no no-hands rests,get really pumped, and then jump right into v3-ish 5-6 move boulder problems.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 2:48 PM
Post #95771 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: So Nathan is competing in Switzerland this morning. He is #37 of 39 in his group (I think that's right....) and the men's quialifier rounds start at 9:15am Eastern time. This is the link for the live feed: http://www.swiss-sport.tv/index.php?id=19 I have a meeting at 10:30 this morning though....if I can figure out the approxomite time that Nathan will compete (I dunno 11:30? noon?) and I'm still in the meeting I hope I can excuse myself. Does that mean that he's ranked 37 out of 39, or that that's the order he's competing in or something? Gud luck pegborder!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 18, 2013, 3:08 PM
Post #95772 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs. Yay, I will have a partner for RRG spring season. I try to feel your pain, but... No, I haven't done Encores, but they would be hard. J-teh-boi was dicking around with them on the hangbored, and also with hang-until-you-fall, bc the hangbored repeater was too boring and regimented for him. As far as hangbored, I am up to 20 lb on the easiest hold, 15 lb on 4 other holds, and no weight on 6th hold. Planning to up it all by 5lb tonight. I was going to do the hangbored for 2 more weeks (should i do 3?) and then switch to campus ( really need input here, bc Manderson is not nearly as specific about this as he is about hangbored.). 1) Debating whether to add systems board to campus, also, bc I cannot see campusing session lasting very long for me. 2)Not sure how long to do the campusing, and when to switch to PE, and how to do the PE, other than 4x4s. Campusing was less regimented for me; I started by searching youtube videos to see what pros were doing on the campus bored. There's a good one of Sonny Trotter doing some different exercises; some of them will work, others will not. I could send you a rundown of some different campus routines I did. And above all, even more than handboarding, with campusing you need to rest a LOT between sets. Like, 5 minutes or more. Though, on the plus side, campusing did not completely wear my body down for days afterward as much as hangboreding did. For PE, 4x4s are great, though you want to make sure you find problems that are easy enough; you'll be surprised what you can fall off of at the end of the set. Or, if possible, try to set a lap of numbers (around 25 moves long), on the bouldering wall, which you can do with no no-hands rests,get really pumped, and then jump right into v3-ish 5-6 move boulder problems. Yes please, send me what you have on the campusing. I've done 4x4s before, so I am pretty familiar with what difficulty grade/length I need. I was just wondering if I should be doing something in addition to 4x4s, or doing them differently. Basically, before, I would warm up and boulder some in haphazard way, just doing stuff that was new or I wanted to work on, and then do 4x4. And after one 4x4 I was done. As in, completely done, couldn't climb anything other than super-easy traversing. Do you just warm up and go into 4x4? Do you do more than one 4x4 in the same session? Other things I had been considering for PE stage: -- VIR/CIR stamina laps on the rope (12 laps with timed 3 min break in between) of the difficulty where they are fairly easy as one lap on it's own, but I would be struggling towards the end. --bouldering pyramid, something like 8xV0s-4xV1s-2xV3s-1xV4-xV3s-4xV1-8xV0, but I am not sure how strictly timed this should be, and how long the breaks should be
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granite_grrl
Jan 18, 2013, 3:20 PM
Post #95773 of 105309
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Posts: 15084
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So Nathan is competing in Switzerland this morning. He is #37 of 39 in his group (I think that's right....) and the men's quialifier rounds start at 9:15am Eastern time. This is the link for the live feed: http://www.swiss-sport.tv/index.php?id=19 I have a meeting at 10:30 this morning though....if I can figure out the approxomite time that Nathan will compete (I dunno 11:30? noon?) and I'm still in the meeting I hope I can excuse myself. Does that mean that he's ranked 37 out of 39, or that that's the order he's competing in or something? Gud luck pegborder! The order he is competing.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 4:10 PM
Post #95774 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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lena_chita wrote: Yes please, send me what you have on the campusing. I've done 4x4s before, so I am pretty familiar with what difficulty grade/length I need. I was just wondering if I should be doing something in addition to 4x4s, or doing them differently. Basically, before, I would warm up and boulder some in haphazard way, just doing stuff that was new or I wanted to work on, and then do 4x4. And after one 4x4 I was done. As in, completely done, couldn't climb anything other than super-easy traversing. Do you just warm up and go into 4x4? Do you do more than one 4x4 in the same session? Other things I had been considering for PE stage: -- VIR/CIR stamina laps on the rope (12 laps with timed 3 min break in between) of the difficulty where they are fairly easy as one lap on it's own, but I would be struggling towards the end. --bouldering pyramid, something like 8xV0s-4xV1s-2xV3s-1xV4-xV3s-4xV1-8xV0, but I am not sure how strictly timed this should be, and how long the breaks should be Campus dissertation sent via facespace. On the PE, I've never done real 4x4s seriously. After warming up, and maybe 30 minutes of projecting boulder problems at my max, I usually did one of two things: 1. Descending Pyramid-ish circuits: Find 3 or 4 groups of problems that are all similar to each other, and which you have dialed. For example, find a set of 4 v4s, 4 v3s and 4 v2s. Start hard, and do each set without resting between problems, but rest 5 minutes or so between each set. You should be failing at the end of the v2s. Although each set should contain problems similar in grade, we all know that some v4s you have more dialed than others. Depending on how you feel, you can challenge yourself by starting on the problems that you have more dialed, and finishing with the ones that are harder for you at the end of the set. Or, less challenge would be to save the ones you have dialed for the end of each set. You may have to add more problems to this, depending on your gym. All problems in these sets that I did were 6-10 move problems on the 70 degree "Mothership" wall. OR, 2. My favorite, which I do on the Mothership wall again: Get a few boulder problems that are just above your onsight max, DIALED, like they take you 3 goes to project, but then you can do them in your sleep. They should be longish, like at least 7 moves. Also, you will have set a "numbers lap" (as I mentioned before) of around 25 moves that traverses along the bottom of a wall, then moves up, and then back down to finish where you started. There should be jugs for shaking on, but NO no-hands rests to cheat yourself on. When you are done, you should not be trashed, but should feel like you just climbed a pumpy 5.11b/c. IMPORTANT: each of the problems you have dialed should start somewhere off of the numbers lap. Now, do the numbers lap, breathing, chalking, resting, and go directly into one of the problems you have dialed. Obviously, this is supposed to simulate a more endurance route, in which you have to pull off moves that are hard for you, while you are really pumped. It's really fun to figure out what your threshhold is. At peak fitness, I was able to do 7-10 move v6s under full pump, which felt no different than redpointing a solid 5.13. Ok, that's awl.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 4:13 PM
Post #95775 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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oh, and it is also good to get PTFTWs really dialed, so you can just...
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