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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 4:14 PM
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... do them in your sleep.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 4:15 PM
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though, I do not yet PTFTWs dialed.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 4:15 PM
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I can do them pretty well without added resistance, but as soon as I've added 20 lbs of Franchize, I fail quickly.
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meatbomz
Jan 18, 2013, 4:21 PM
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tripperjm wrote: In other news... I noticed that teh losers in teh spci finally made 40k. So I thought I wood stroll over and offer them my gongratulations. But I thinks hopes that I wus able to rain on there parade.
I saw that you were the last pos(t)er over there and thought "hmm, Jak is running with a new crowd I see". But then I looked and was like "oh, ok".
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meatbomz
Jan 18, 2013, 4:23 PM
Post #95780 of 105309
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camhead wrote: biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs.
Welcome to my world!
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meatbomz
Jan 18, 2013, 4:26 PM
Post #95782 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs. Yay, I will have a partner for RRG spring season. I try to feel your pain, but... No, I haven't done Encores, but they would be hard. J-teh-boi was dicking around with them on the hangbored, and also with hang-until-you-fall, bc the hangbored repeater was too boring and regimented for him. As far as hangbored, I am up to 20 lb on the easiest hold, 15 lb on 4 other holds, and no weight on 6th hold. Planning to up it all by 5lb tonight. I was going to do the hangbored for 2 more weeks (should i do 3?) and then switch to campus ( really need input here, bc Manderson is not nearly as specific about this as he is about hangbored.). 1) Debating whether to add systems board to campus, also, bc I cannot see campusing session lasting very long for me. 2)Not sure how long to do the campusing, and when to switch to PE, and how to do the PE, other than 4x4s. Campusing was less regimented for me; I started by searching youtube videos to see what pros were doing on the campus bored. There's a good one of Sonny Trotter doing some different exercises; some of them will work, others will not. I could send you a rundown of some different campus routines I did. And above all, even more than handboarding, with campusing you need to rest a LOT between sets. Like, 5 minutes or more. Though, on the plus side, campusing did not completely wear my body down for days afterward as much as hangboreding did. For PE, 4x4s are great, though you want to make sure you find problems that are easy enough; you'll be surprised what you can fall off of at the end of the set. Or, if possible, try to set a lap of numbers (around 25 moves long), on the bouldering wall, which you can do with no no-hands rests,get really pumped, and then jump right into v3-ish 5-6 move boulder problems. Yes please, send me what you have on the campusing. I've done 4x4s before, so I am pretty familiar with what difficulty grade/length I need. I was just wondering if I should be doing something in addition to 4x4s, or doing them differently. Basically, before, I would warm up and boulder some in haphazard way, just doing stuff that was new or I wanted to work on, and then do 4x4. And after one 4x4 I was done. As in, completely done, couldn't climb anything other than super-easy traversing. Do you just warm up and go into 4x4? Do you do more than one 4x4 in the same session? Other things I had been considering for PE stage: -- VIR/CIR stamina laps on the rope (12 laps with timed 3 min break in between) of the difficulty where they are fairly easy as one lap on it's own, but I would be struggling towards the end. --bouldering pyramid, something like 8xV0s-4xV1s-2xV3s-1xV4-xV3s-4xV1-8xV0, but I am not sure how strictly timed this should be, and how long the breaks should be
Lena is upping her gheyme I see.
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granite_grrl
Jan 18, 2013, 5:57 PM
Post #95783 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage.  Gooooo Marmint!!
He fell. :(
Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 18, 2013, 6:49 PM
Post #95784 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: biweekly hangbored report: Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season. Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well. Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard. Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix. Muthuh fuckahs. Yay, I will have a partner for RRG spring season. I try to feel your pain, but... No, I haven't done Encores, but they would be hard. J-teh-boi was dicking around with them on the hangbored, and also with hang-until-you-fall, bc the hangbored repeater was too boring and regimented for him. As far as hangbored, I am up to 20 lb on the easiest hold, 15 lb on 4 other holds, and no weight on 6th hold. Planning to up it all by 5lb tonight. I was going to do the hangbored for 2 more weeks (should i do 3?) and then switch to campus ( really need input here, bc Manderson is not nearly as specific about this as he is about hangbored.). 1) Debating whether to add systems board to campus, also, bc I cannot see campusing session lasting very long for me. 2)Not sure how long to do the campusing, and when to switch to PE, and how to do the PE, other than 4x4s. Campusing was less regimented for me; I started by searching youtube videos to see what pros were doing on the campus bored. There's a good one of Sonny Trotter doing some different exercises; some of them will work, others will not. I could send you a rundown of some different campus routines I did. And above all, even more than handboarding, with campusing you need to rest a LOT between sets. Like, 5 minutes or more. Though, on the plus side, campusing did not completely wear my body down for days afterward as much as hangboreding did. For PE, 4x4s are great, though you want to make sure you find problems that are easy enough; you'll be surprised what you can fall off of at the end of the set. Or, if possible, try to set a lap of numbers (around 25 moves long), on the bouldering wall, which you can do with no no-hands rests,get really pumped, and then jump right into v3-ish 5-6 move boulder problems. Yes please, send me what you have on the campusing. I've done 4x4s before, so I am pretty familiar with what difficulty grade/length I need. I was just wondering if I should be doing something in addition to 4x4s, or doing them differently. Basically, before, I would warm up and boulder some in haphazard way, just doing stuff that was new or I wanted to work on, and then do 4x4. And after one 4x4 I was done. As in, completely done, couldn't climb anything other than super-easy traversing. Do you just warm up and go into 4x4? Do you do more than one 4x4 in the same session? Other things I had been considering for PE stage: -- VIR/CIR stamina laps on the rope (12 laps with timed 3 min break in between) of the difficulty where they are fairly easy as one lap on it's own, but I would be struggling towards the end. --bouldering pyramid, something like 8xV0s-4xV1s-2xV3s-1xV4-xV3s-4xV1-8xV0, but I am not sure how strictly timed this should be, and how long the breaks should be Lena is upping her gheyme I see.
Yeah, haven't found pretty danzing boys that would make me forgo climbing, so I figured I might as well try harder climbing.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 18, 2013, 6:50 PM
Post #95785 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage. Gooooo Marmint!! He fell. :( Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK!
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caughtinside
Jan 18, 2013, 7:08 PM
Post #95786 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage. Gooooo Marmint!! He fell. :( Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK!
rats
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snoopy138
Jan 18, 2013, 7:22 PM
Post #95787 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So Nathan is competing in Switzerland this morning. He is #37 of 39 in his group (I think that's right....) and the men's quialifier rounds start at 9:15am Eastern time. This is the link for the live feed: http://www.swiss-sport.tv/index.php?id=19 I have a meeting at 10:30 this morning though....if I can figure out the approxomite time that Nathan will compete (I dunno 11:30? noon?) and I'm still in the meeting I hope I can excuse myself. Does that mean that he's ranked 37 out of 39, or that that's the order he's competing in or something? Gud luck pegborder!
just clicked on this, and it was teh wimminz speed final. not very interesting. I assume I have missed nathan by now.
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camhead
Jan 18, 2013, 8:10 PM
Post #95788 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage. Gooooo Marmint!! He fell. :( Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK! rats
Aw, shit.
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granite_grrl
Jan 18, 2013, 9:50 PM
Post #95789 of 105309
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My analysis (which may not be correct):
He was in this undercling steinpull with his feet super high (there was nothing below him to put them lower) he went up for one of those bollards (??? the hanging ice plugs) and didn't quite get in the hold the first time. When he was retracting he must not have been pushing out enough with his feet and he slipped and fell.
Totally sucks because he actually did climb the rest of the route quite well. It was a stupid mistake for him to make, but I thought that would be the trickiest part for him (on account that he's 6"0" and it would be hard for him to get his footing when he was that crunched up). Some of the short guys just kicked right in there and were super solid, but I don't think he could have kicked his feet in.
He managed to get a high score considering where he fell off. I'm not sure what that actually means though.
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snoopy138
Jan 18, 2013, 11:33 PM
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got some werd from teh AB ... he is werking teh werks 7 days a weke and will not be at teh meetup.
something about it would take the whole weke end just to find his climbing gearz in the closet.
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drivel
Jan 19, 2013, 6:45 AM
Post #95791 of 105309
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: LENA! Do you do much quilting? Drivel cleaned out a bunch of old clothes that were back in the closet, and found a lot of NRG Rendezvous shirts, that are a bit worn, and don't really fit all that well (too short at the waist), btu we were thinking they might be cool to use as some sort of synthy quilt. Would you be interested? Or Mo, do you do crafty shit like this? Get the Lumberjack to buy you a sewing machine or something! Funny that you ask! I am right now making a year-in-review jean quilt, bc the kidlings are growing out of their jeans before they wear out. I could do it for you. But depending on how many shirts there are, it won't be that big a quilt. You will prob need some other fabric to fill it out to lap quilt size. Also, I do vaguely remember a promise of pot pie, never fulfilled... Oh! Seriously, tell me when you will be through Columbus again, and I will have an awesome pot pie for you. Even if you do a trip to the Red sometime in the next couple months, I'll have it for you to pick up on your way home. As for the quilt, We also have some of Drivel's old signature Bored Shorts with the loud colors and patterns. How would those and then some synthy material be for a quilt? Well, the shorts are different weight fabric than the T-shirts. The block that is made out of shorts will be much stiffer and will stick out, so I would say that it is a bad idea to combine them. You can have some variability in the fabric weight, especially if the blocks are smaller and you can cut multiple blocks from each t-shirt/shorts, but it won't work that way with the 'vous T-shirts bc the whole point would be to cut the blocks big enough to see the logo as a whole. If you really want to make it a 'climbing-related' quilt and throw in those shorts, instead of making it a 'vous T-shirt quilt, then you need to pick a sturdy backing fabric and build everything on that backing, that way the difference in fabric weight won't be a big deal. But it would require more complicated layout than just a plain T-shirt quilt. And also, for whatever quilt you decide, you would need some cotton fabric in non-busy color that will go with the shirts for the borders. And lightweight non-woven fusible interfacing. And then either fleece of batting+backing to turn this into either a blanket or a quilt. If some relatives have a fabric stash, might be a good place to raid. Hmm, taking the shirts to the thrift store is sounding more and more appealing. Yes.... this ^ iz korect. The thread has fallen on dark days when we look back on the glorious radness when we used to be into gardening and breadmaking. Now its quilting, dancing and unspecified "crafts". A nadir, now doubt. Dribble can't even pull himself away from tawking about teh swingity swingz on facespace for 5 minutes to GU, even. Won't ever even read this post.
gnot trew.
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drivel
Jan 19, 2013, 6:48 AM
Post #95792 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: notapplicable wrote: carabiner96 wrote: tripperjm wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Just came back from getting the hairs cut. I think it's too short, and there's no layers so with the blow dry/straightening they do for you at the salon, it looks a little posh spice. We'll see what it does when I shower, go to sleep with my hair wet, and wake up doing nothing to it. That's the real test. I kin tell from rite hear, even withowt looking... it's two short. I noes it's more werk, but wimin look better with teh long hairs. I prefer long hair, but Brian is a freak who likes the short hairs. Even the stylist agrees men like long hair better. It is a well documented fact that 84.6% of women look better with short hair. . and GTFO! Shouldn't you be more careful commenting on the bolded part? You are, however, correct on the second part.
bois with short hair look fine.
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drivel
Jan 19, 2013, 7:35 AM
Post #95793 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and several topix back, but Beccs and Lena both look better with longer (shoulder length) hair. Biner definitely is more of a long-hair wearer, too. I would assume that kel is as well. So, that's my opinion, man, from a dude who doesn't really matter. Is it round face => long hair/ long face => short hair? Or the other way around? I don't think it is either. But I agree that the short hair that looks cool on dribble doesn't look cool on me. This is true, I don't think it comes down to something as simple as face shape, it's more just how the person carries him or herself. Lena and Drivel have not dissimilar faces; they're both very toned, less angled than round, prominent noses (ducks fists). But Drivel looks good with short hair, and Lena doesnt. Even still, there are times that Drivel has cut her hair too short, and it didn't look good.
wut? i would have described my face as pretty angular. sharp jawline, not-round nose. I tend to think sharper facial features are kind of a prereq for looking decent with really short hair. Sharp features and short hair tends to look fey instead of just odd.
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camhead
Jan 19, 2013, 2:33 PM
Post #95794 of 105309
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drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: LENA! Do you do much quilting? Drivel cleaned out a bunch of old clothes that were back in the closet, and found a lot of NRG Rendezvous shirts, that are a bit worn, and don't really fit all that well (too short at the waist), btu we were thinking they might be cool to use as some sort of synthy quilt. Would you be interested? Or Mo, do you do crafty shit like this? Get the Lumberjack to buy you a sewing machine or something! Funny that you ask! I am right now making a year-in-review jean quilt, bc the kidlings are growing out of their jeans before they wear out. I could do it for you. But depending on how many shirts there are, it won't be that big a quilt. You will prob need some other fabric to fill it out to lap quilt size. Also, I do vaguely remember a promise of pot pie, never fulfilled... Oh! Seriously, tell me when you will be through Columbus again, and I will have an awesome pot pie for you. Even if you do a trip to the Red sometime in the next couple months, I'll have it for you to pick up on your way home. As for the quilt, We also have some of Drivel's old signature Bored Shorts with the loud colors and patterns. How would those and then some synthy material be for a quilt? Well, the shorts are different weight fabric than the T-shirts. The block that is made out of shorts will be much stiffer and will stick out, so I would say that it is a bad idea to combine them. You can have some variability in the fabric weight, especially if the blocks are smaller and you can cut multiple blocks from each t-shirt/shorts, but it won't work that way with the 'vous T-shirts bc the whole point would be to cut the blocks big enough to see the logo as a whole. If you really want to make it a 'climbing-related' quilt and throw in those shorts, instead of making it a 'vous T-shirt quilt, then you need to pick a sturdy backing fabric and build everything on that backing, that way the difference in fabric weight won't be a big deal. But it would require more complicated layout than just a plain T-shirt quilt. And also, for whatever quilt you decide, you would need some cotton fabric in non-busy color that will go with the shirts for the borders. And lightweight non-woven fusible interfacing. And then either fleece of batting+backing to turn this into either a blanket or a quilt. If some relatives have a fabric stash, might be a good place to raid. Hmm, taking the shirts to the thrift store is sounding more and more appealing. Yes.... this ^ iz korect. The thread has fallen on dark days when we look back on the glorious radness when we used to be into gardening and breadmaking. Now its quilting, dancing and unspecified "crafts". A nadir, now doubt. Dribble can't even pull himself away from tawking about teh swingity swingz on facespace for 5 minutes to GU, even. Won't ever even read this post. gnot trew.
FUCK!
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camhead
Jan 19, 2013, 2:35 PM
Post #95795 of 105309
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drivel wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and several topix back, but Beccs and Lena both look better with longer (shoulder length) hair. Biner definitely is more of a long-hair wearer, too. I would assume that kel is as well. So, that's my opinion, man, from a dude who doesn't really matter. Is it round face => long hair/ long face => short hair? Or the other way around? I don't think it is either. But I agree that the short hair that looks cool on dribble doesn't look cool on me. This is true, I don't think it comes down to something as simple as face shape, it's more just how the person carries him or herself. Lena and Drivel have not dissimilar faces; they're both very toned, less angled than round, prominent noses (ducks fists). But Drivel looks good with short hair, and Lena doesnt. Even still, there are times that Drivel has cut her hair too short, and it didn't look good. wut? i would have described my face as pretty angular. sharp jawline, not-round nose. I tend to think sharper facial features are kind of a prereq for looking decent with really short hair. Sharp features and short hair tends to look fey instead of just odd.
I must've been falling asleep when I typed that. I meant you and Lena's faces were MORE angular, and less round. But in Lena's case short hair does knot look good, whereas it does on ewe.
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meatbomz
Jan 19, 2013, 3:01 PM
Post #95796 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage. Gooooo Marmint!! He fell. :( Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK!
Choosey sucks. 
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meatbomz
Jan 19, 2013, 3:02 PM
Post #95797 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: got some werd from teh AB ... he is werking teh werks 7 days a weke and will not be at teh meetup. something about it would take the whole weke end just to find his climbing gearz in the closet.
Pathetic
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camhead
Jan 19, 2013, 3:20 PM
Post #95798 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got some werd from teh AB ... he is werking teh werks 7 days a weke and will not be at teh meetup. something about it would take the whole weke end just to find his climbing gearz in the closet. Pathetic
Any babiez on the way yet for AB?
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granite_grrl
Jan 19, 2013, 11:51 PM
Post #95799 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage. Gooooo Marmint!! He fell. :( Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK! Choosey sucks.
It's hard to tell him that next comp he should spend some time sucking less without looking like a bitch wife on facespace.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 20, 2013, 2:33 AM
Post #95800 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: fuck, I keep getting screwed up with the time change....tha prelims are actually supossed to start at 8:15am Eastern time. I'm almost certainly going to be in my meeting when Nathan takes the stage. Gooooo Marmint!! He fell. :( Fuck, I knew where he fell would be the issue (crunch part), but he was pretty much through it! He just pissed the hold he was going for off the undercling steinpull and didn't catch himself. FUCK! Choosey sucks. It's hard to tell him that next comp he should spend some time sucking less without looking like a bitch wife on facespace.
So don't do it. He is already posting on facespace about how much he sucks. Now your job is to tell him that he doesn't. 
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