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Top Rope anchor dynamic?
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csproul


Mar 2, 2013, 11:17 AM
Post #26 of 27 (594 views)
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [bearbreeder] Top Rope anchor dynamic? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
csproul wrote:
That's not what the op bought. He was sold what was likely a $90 rope assuming he bought the entire 30m rope. You can get webbing for ~$1/m or 8mm cord for ~$1.50/m, either of which are just as safe and cheaper. Your "savings" of 10 cents per meter is only a savings if they last the same amount of time. I'd be willing to bet that no matter how well you pad the edges, the dynamic will wear out more quickly than the static.

So answer this...yes or no...that simple: Do you think the OP was given good advice by the salesman? Keep in mind that we're talking about material that will be devoted to creating natural top-rope anchors.

actually i would bet the opposite ... my mammut cordelettes become unreasonably stiff after 3 years or so of heavy use, while the half ropes stay supple and easy to knot much longer ... the wear from TRing with proper edge protection is minimal ... not to mention you should be replacing your cordelettes every few years anyways

well since were in a court of RC Wink

i dont see any issues with 8mm half ropes, where one would use a 8mm cord ... and up here its cheaper to buy the half rope, in fact the beal rando at MEC is cheaper per meter than 8mm static up here $2.30 vs $2.60

its that simple Tongue
I'm not sure what "unreasonably stiff" or "suppleness" or the ability to hold a knot has to do with rope longevity from abrasion. Either you can see the abraded rope or you can't. My time spent top-roping, & jugging and hauling off both dynamic and static ropes indicates to me that the dynamic ropes wear faster. It makes sense, because the dynamic rope will stretch cyclically with the repeated loads caused by top-roping. Even if you pad the edges well every time (how many people really do that?!), there is still some wear against the abrading surface. Which will wear faster, something that stretches and repeatedly rubs due to that stretch or something that stretches a whole lot less? It's clear that you have a difference of opinion or maybe you just like to argue (I suspect the latter), and I doubt there is any real evidence either way other than anecdotal. I've already said that I agree that it will be perfectly safe if s/he follows the basic anchoring principles that you have repeatedly laid out.


bearbreeder


Mar 2, 2013, 11:26 AM
Post #27 of 27 (593 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [csproul] Top Rope anchor dynamic? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
I'm not sure what "unreasonably stiff" or "suppleness" or the ability to hold a knot has to do with rope longevity from abrasion. Either you can see the abraded rope or you can't. My time spent top-roping, & jugging and hauling off both dynamic and static ropes indicates to me that the dynamic ropes wear faster. It makes sense, because the dynamic rope will stretch cyclically with the repeated loads caused by top-roping. Even if you pad the edges well every time (how many people really do that?!), there is still some wear against the abrading surface. Which will wear faster, something that stretches and repeatedly rubs due to that stretch or something that stretches a whole lot less? It's clear that you have a difference of opinion or maybe you just like to argue (I suspect the latter), and I doubt there is any real evidence either way other than anecdotal. I've already said that I agree that it will be perfectly safe if s/he follows the basic anchoring principles that you have repeatedly laid out.

unless the OP is doing the same darn climb every time and rigging up his anchor the exact same length ... its not like this "wear" against the padding will be very significant ...

cord can become stiff after much usage ... will it hold a knot? .. sure ... but just like those worn out old ropes, undoing weighted knots can be a total biatch ...

not that it matters anyways as you will be replacing out the 8mm cord after several years anyways ...

we all know that properly cared for ropes last a LONG time ... so its all moot ...

go out and use it ... thats what matters ...

not all this RC fun Wink

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