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Nugester
Mar 9, 2013, 11:26 PM
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-Work on foot work
-Don't scrunch up so much
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skelldify
Mar 9, 2013, 11:34 PM
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There no point in giving you advice until you get climbing shoes. You won't be climbing properly without them.
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namoclimber
Mar 9, 2013, 11:40 PM
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I think it would be best to add some feet in to problem and concentrate on keeping your feet on the wall at all times. By learning some straight arm technique too you will be able to more easily send problems of this type. Grab hold push up to the next hold not pull up to the next hold. 
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DanielK
Mar 10, 2013, 7:05 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys, and yeah I see what you mean.
With running shoes the footgrip is awfull, resulting in the arms pulling the heavier load. I just ordered the Scarpa Force climbingshoe and hope I will receive it next week.
I'll keep posting my progress in this topic for you guys to comment on, might also film the easier I1 and I2 course or try speedclimbing the courses for faster completion, since I4 is way too hard for now.
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DanielK
Mar 13, 2013, 10:46 PM
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Videos shot from todays climbing:
Completion of I1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4SEvsqVcf0
Training on I4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1DusZTOwwU
Climbing shoes are ready to be picked up from the post office, so let's hope they fit.
Else I have to send them back and instead find a physical shop outside of my city to try some out.
Tuesday next week I got an appointment with our teacher from university at the local climbing club, so he can show me some techniques etc.
In 2 weeks I'm off to Poland to visit the center of climbing in Radom: http://cwgrota.pl/
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mr.tastycakes
Mar 14, 2013, 2:27 PM
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DanielK wrote: What to improve on and what to change?
Basically everything. What else would you expect with 2 weeks of experience?
Improve your hand and foot placement, learn and refine the basic climbing movements (turning, flagging, etc), improve your sequence reading, improve your movement initiation and execution, improve your inter-muscular coordination (aka "body tension") so that you can keep your feet on, etc. That'll keep you busy for several years.
Enjoy the process. Focus on learning to climb well instead of scratching and clawing your way up more and more difficult routes. You're building a foundation for long term improvement that way, as opposed to ingraining bad beginner habits.
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DanielK
Mar 14, 2013, 3:01 PM
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Thanks for the feedback tasty.
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cracklover
Mar 14, 2013, 4:51 PM
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I think the most important thing you could do is learn about turning your hips/shoulders. You climb everything straight on.
Not all about this video is great, but look at what he does at 0:37. Learn to do this, and learn the footwork that supports it. Find a couple of big holds on an overhang and practice reaching up high by turning your hips and shoulders until you get it. Then you can learn to integrate that into the rest of your climbing. It should do a lot to help keep your feet on, too, since you need to drive with your feet to make it happen.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UOWHwwxczI
GO
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DanielK
Mar 15, 2013, 7:47 AM
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Trying out the climbing shoes for the first time.
Completing I2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e9J6qglWpI
Best try so far on the I4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzRmm8AuYic
@Cracklover
Thanks for the advice and video Cracklover. I do realize my footwork is bad, which is noticeable by the higher workload on the arms. Trying to work on it, however I think I have become much better to turn and twist my hips compared to earlier videos and also to lift my center of gravity up towards the wall on horizontal walls or in at vertical walls. Also I'm working on trying to let the arms be straight eventhough I have a strong natural urge to contract the biceps.
I experimented a bit with different footholds with the new climbing shoes, but it's difficult and I need more practise in them. Any advice on how to conquer the red I4 course? Grips to change, maybe a new plan of attack? :)
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iknowfear
Mar 15, 2013, 10:48 AM
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DanielK wrote: Trying out the climbing shoes for the first time. Completing I2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e9J6qglWpI Best try so far on the I4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzRmm8AuYic @Cracklover Thanks for the advice and video Cracklover. I do realize my footwork is bad, which is noticeable by the higher workload on the arms. Trying to work on it, however I think I have become much better to turn and twist my hips compared to earlier videos and also to lift my center of gravity up towards the wall on horizontal walls or in at vertical walls. Also I'm working on trying to let the arms be straight eventhough I have a strong natural urge to contract the biceps. I experimented a bit with different footholds with the new climbing shoes, but it's difficult and I need more practise in them. Any advice on how to conquer the red I4 course? Grips to change, maybe a new plan of attack? :)
two words of advice:
silent feet. As long as you can hear a foot placement, it is not precise!
And at the start of I4, you look up again before your foot is placed, resulting in an imprecise placement.
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Syd
Mar 29, 2013, 9:59 AM
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Learning some technique is more important than shoes at your current stage. For overhangs, have someone show you how to flag for starters.
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climb4free
Mar 29, 2013, 1:58 PM
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Syd wrote: Learning some technique is more important than shoes at your current stage. For overhangs, have someone show you how to flag for starters.
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Syd
Mar 29, 2013, 7:44 PM
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climb4free, that would be my immediate reaction because like most climbers, I'm addicted to climbing shoes. However I know a very good climber who teaches beginners and doesn't advise climbing shoes initially because it allows them to avoid using good technique.
It doesn't apply so much for slabs I think, where footholds are smaller and edging etc is more important. On overhangs it's more about body position and body tension than fine footwork.
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climb4free
Mar 29, 2013, 7:50 PM
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I would say dependency on feet is the better of two extremes. Even on the steeps, pulling into the wall is only made better with rock shoes.
(This post was edited by climb4free on Mar 29, 2013, 7:51 PM)
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Syd
Mar 29, 2013, 8:23 PM
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Sure, pulling on toe hooks or heel hooks need shoes but in the video he should be pushing not pulling into his feet ... and he's on mega jugs that shouldn't need climbing shoes.
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shotwell
Mar 30, 2013, 3:33 AM
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Syd wrote: Sure, pulling on toe hooks or heel hooks need shoes but in the video he should be pushing not pulling into his feet ... and he's on mega jugs that shouldn't need climbing shoes.
You can pull your hips in and push your body up at the same time. This is a very common move in bouldering and absolutely miserable to perform without climbing shoes. You simply will never learn good foot technique without proper climbing shoes. It requires so much more than body position, even on giant jug feet.
Interestingly enough, i thought the OPs style showed good promise for a person that will be an exclusive boulderer. He instinctively keeps his toes pointed to the holds he has peeled from, lets his momentum carry himself back into the wall, and really doesn't fight the way the holds want to be pulled. Sure, he has a ton of work to do, but this is one of the many skills required for top level bouldering. Many climbers develop far too static a style to effectively boulder and eventually have to reprogram their skill set to advance.
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Syd
Mar 30, 2013, 6:39 AM
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He'll have to buy them sooner or later anyways.
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DanielK
Mar 31, 2013, 5:46 PM
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Thanks for your comments, and yeah I find the climbing shoes to be great!
Been doing some regular rock climbs with top-ropes lately. Personal best was to complete a 5.8 second time doing it.
I'll probably put up some videos soon of a hopefully successful I4 bouldering climb :)
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bentgate03
Apr 4, 2013, 9:22 PM
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DanielK wrote: \ Anyway, here are 3 videos of a bouldering route (green rocks). What to improve on and what to change? Thanks in advance.
A start would NOT be calling them green rocks  .
It would be the green route.
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DanielK
Apr 5, 2013, 10:40 PM
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Will do :)
Anyway.
Today I bouldered for the first time in 3 weeks, with only 4 regular top-rope rock climbing sessions done meanwhile.
I think the break from constant bouldering and the training sessions on the regular climbing wall, has taught me better technique together with giving me better finger strength.
I completed I1 very very easily in compare to previous attempts. I2 was likewise extremely easy.
I completed the I4 (V3-V5) on my first attempt. Notice the stronger grips, more straight arms and the twists.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF4Bh9jLkBc
Also tried top outs on the I3, but they were too difficult still.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEIthUfMcIQ
All in all, very satisfied with my progress!
(This post was edited by DanielK on Apr 5, 2013, 10:55 PM)
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cpowers15
Apr 10, 2013, 7:07 PM
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am I the only one waiting for a response on the V3-V5 rating?
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atpclimbing
Apr 10, 2013, 7:39 PM
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cpowers15 wrote: am I the only one waiting for a response on the V3-V5 rating?
If you watched the video, you know it's bull. Heck, even if you didn't you would know it's a load. Do we really wanna get into arguing about gym grades though?
I am kinda surprised it took that long though...
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DanielK
Apr 11, 2013, 7:24 PM
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So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?
On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon.
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marc801
Apr 11, 2013, 9:39 PM
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DanielK wrote: So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3? And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route? On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon.
(This post was edited by marc801 on Apr 11, 2013, 9:42 PM)
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marc801
Apr 11, 2013, 10:18 PM
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DanielK wrote: So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3? And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?
Your supposed V3-V5 just doesn't look as difficult as other problems in that range.
Here's a video of a Gunks V4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBnpfV5wmU
And of course we're talking about indoor ratings in your case, which are often to usually pretty incorrect as compared to real rock. If you want to think you're bouldering at V3-V5, go right ahead and delude yourself. Just don't be surprised when you get totally spanked by your first outdoor 5.8.
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DanielK
Apr 12, 2013, 6:20 AM
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marc801 wrote: DanielK wrote: So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3? And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route? On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon. For fuck's sake they're holds, not "grips". And no one talks about making it to holds or grips, but making moves, since climbing is 60% or more footwork.
marc801 wrote: DanielK wrote: So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3? And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route? Most experienced climbers can look at a problem and make a reasonable guess as to its grade. If they can watch someone on it, their estimation will be even closer. Not always, but often close enough. Your supposed V3-V5 just doesn't look as difficult as other problems in that range. Here's a video of a Gunks V4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBnpfV5wmU And of course we're talking about indoor ratings in your case, which are often to usually pretty incorrect as compared to real rock. If you want to think you're bouldering at V3-V5, go right ahead and delude yourself. Just don't be surprised when you get totally spanked by your first outdoor 5.8.
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amarius
Apr 12, 2013, 1:18 PM
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Glad you have intestinal fortitude to take feedback from RC ;)
Anyways, as they said, all climbing grades are subjective, but the climbs that get most traffic asymptotically approach their true grades because a whole lot climbers give them a go. Indoor routes are very subjective since only a few people grade them. Furthermore some of indoor problems are ego climbs, that is set to increase one's self worth, not technique.
If you are interested, and you sound as if you do, John Gill, an objectively serious climber, has a wonderful website on history of climbing http://www.johngill.net/
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marc801
Apr 12, 2013, 2:10 PM
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DanielK wrote: marc801 wrote: DanielK wrote: On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon. For fuck's sake they're holds, not "grips". And no one talks about making it to holds or grips, but making moves, since climbing is 60% or more footwork. How the fuck should I know. Don't be rude..
On the rudeness scale on the net, that's about a 1.
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DanielK
Apr 28, 2013, 9:39 AM
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I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack.
The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range.
The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s
Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac
(This post was edited by DanielK on Apr 28, 2013, 9:41 AM)
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cracklover
Apr 29, 2013, 2:38 PM
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You still don't seem to be using your hips much, but your feet are coming off less frequently, even when you're tired, and you're starting to turn your shoulders when you want to reach, instead of just pulling up.
Clear progress.
GO
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cpowers15
May 1, 2013, 8:07 PM
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DanielK wrote: So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3? And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?
Yes, and I think based on the number and size of the holds. You could definitely set some harder problems on that incline, but with an array of nice looking holds I would be inclined to think it's lower. But that is just one opinion
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theextremist04
May 2, 2013, 3:57 AM
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DanielK wrote: I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack. The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range. The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac
http://www.youtube.com/...mp;feature=endscreen
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cracklover
May 2, 2013, 3:39 PM
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theextremist04 wrote: DanielK wrote: I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack. The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range. The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac I'd like to echo cracklover, you should use your hips a lot more- very rarely will they be turned straight in. Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/...mp;feature=endscreen
Nice video. Does a good job of explaining a few techniques.
GO
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skalla92
May 12, 2013, 8:11 PM
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I'm on a rok climbjng team and here is what helped me get from v0 to v5 and 5.easy to 5.11.
Every time you go to the rock gym, before you star working on routes do this warmup:
(On easy routs)
Perfect toe placement: try to place your foot only on the tip of your shoe and only place each foot once.
Finding balance: every hold that you go to, first of all turn in your hip, and once you grab the hold, balance yourself (make a triangle with your had in the center and wide feet. Once you get this stance, if your holding on with your left hand, reach thru to the left and turn your right hip in. This will help with muscle memory. Eventually you will balance yourself without thinking after every move.
Momentum/strait arms: use momentum and swing from hold to hold whal keeping your arm perfectly strait. You will find this is easier when your balanced and have high feet.
Then for the rest of the warm up, do 321s. 3 climbs way below your onsight level, 2 just below your onsight level, and one at your onsight level. If your a v3 climber, do 3 v0s, 2 v2s, and one v3.
This is what we do every team practice before our exercise. Everyone from new climbers to v8 climbers does it. It seriously helps!
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squeaka
May 13, 2013, 1:35 AM
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theextremist04 wrote: DanielK wrote: I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack. The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range. The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac I'd like to echo cracklover, you should use your hips a lot more- very rarely will they be turned straight in. Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/...mp;feature=endscreen
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DanielK
May 28, 2013, 11:02 AM
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The video is private, so can't watch it :(
But to update you about my progress I have become a lot better. Remember the I4 and F1 I had so much trouble in completing? Well, my usual bouldering climbing sessions nowadays include completing F1 once (incl. top-out), I4 twice, I3 thrice, I2 four times and I1 5 times. All of these are completed within a timeframe of 10 minutes. Furthermore I almost never fail any of the routes anymore, eventhough I get tired.
I've gotten a bit back to working out with weightlifting and running again instead of doing climbing as the only form of exercise, so I now climb twice a week.
Next session, I'll be working towards completing the I3 with a top-out, which wont be that difficult I think.
I have also been looking at the hardest pink route on the wall, but the sit-start is in a position I'm just not flexible enough to start at, so I suppose stretching of the hamstrings and lower back will do me good in that compartment.
But I probably need to hurry since I heard they are thinking about rearranging completely new routes, because the current ones are too difficult for newbeginners to practise at.
Note: the pink route is supposedly somewhere around the difficulty of a V6-V10.
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gunkiemike
Jun 15, 2013, 9:45 PM
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Wow, that kid has the skinniest forearms I've ever seen on anyone climbing. Freakishly thin. He'd make the Olsen twins jealous.
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marc801
Jun 15, 2013, 11:37 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: Wow, that kid has the skinniest forearms I've ever seen on anyone climbing. Freakishly thin. He'd make the Olsen twins jealous.
Oh, and they got the name of the problem wrong as well.
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