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What's wrong with this anchor?
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redlude97


Jul 27, 2013, 11:35 PM
Post #26 of 29 (869 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 988

Re: [InDaDacks] What's wrong with this anchor? [In reply to]
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InDaDacks wrote:
The proper way to set up a belay from 2 bolts with 2 quickdraws and a reverso is to clip the two quickdraws directly to the reverso. Petzl demonstrates this technique. It is important that the bolts are level horizontally and not too far apart. Save your locker, simplify your setup.
How the fuck do you clip 2 full sized biners to the reverso? There is no way that hole is large enough


meanandugly


Jul 28, 2013, 4:13 AM
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Registered: Oct 20, 2004
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Re: [redlude97] What's wrong with this anchor? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
How the fuck do you clip 2 full sized biners to the reverso? There is no way that hole is large enough

That's what she said.


(This post was edited by meanandugly on Jul 29, 2013, 1:48 PM)


chris


Jul 29, 2013, 11:26 AM
Post #28 of 29 (791 views)
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Re: [meanandugly] What's wrong with this anchor? [In reply to]
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I think the OP photo is fine. This is completely adequate for bringing your second (and third) up, and with a simple directional off of one of the anchor bolts (or a piece immediately after leaving the anchor), you eliminate the possible factor 2 fall onto the master point.

The only thing I do differently is the locking carabiner turns into the master point - my ATC Guide is then clipped with an additional locking biner to the master-point locker.

Climbers also are secured to the master-point locker as they arrive to the anchor. This way the belay device can be removed from the system (for the next pitch) without having to open the master-point locker.

It adds one more locking carabiner to the system, but helps out with anchor management, so I think its worth it.

Like a couple of people have colorfully noted, I couldn't fit two carabiners directly to my ATC Guide, so eliminating the locking biner isn't really an option.


dac33


Dec 8, 2013, 3:14 AM
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Re: [noobington] What's wrong with this anchor? [In reply to]
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noobington wrote:
For anyone kind enough to offer some feedback:

I've never seen an anchor built this way (in this case it's set up to belay a second from above), but I couldn't put my finger on why it would be wrong/bad/insufficient. I understand that cordalette/sling/etc to build a master point is standard, but I'm curious as to the reasoning for why this method would not work.

.

I'm not sure it is "wrong", except that I can't see where the belayer ties in. She is going to have to form some other system to attach herself with, and hence if makes more sense for this to be part of the system used for the reverso, otherwise you are doubling up.

See http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/6TheBelay.htm
for lots of alternatives.

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