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rgbscan


Nov 21, 2013, 2:42 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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In reply to:
IIRC, this is also around when Climbsomething was forced out as a moderator?

That's about the time I left. I've still been lurking on and off for a decade or so. Not much of a poster though. I think after a bunch of the heavy handed moderation and bans that followed the whole Amber_Chk incident taking her ball and going home and then threatening to sue everyone and anyone left me feeling like this was too hostile of a place. Quality mods are hard to find, and I felt like things got too heavy handed there for a while. Drove me to go elsewhere. I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Interesting read here though. Most I've read in a long , long time.


Partner cracklover


Nov 21, 2013, 8:11 PM
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Re: [rgbscan] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO


carabiner96


Nov 21, 2013, 8:25 PM
Post #329 of 430 (3715 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?


Partner cracklover


Nov 21, 2013, 8:58 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

I think the original thread, along with a lot of superb commentary and insights, was deleted. But here's a link to a post that quoted the OP.

GO


sungam


Nov 21, 2013, 9:18 PM
Post #331 of 430 (3696 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Isn't that the story that a 3rd party said was vastly exaggerated? Like the fall was like 1/8th the claimed length etc.
Gnarly photos though IIRC.


edge


Nov 21, 2013, 10:28 PM
Post #332 of 430 (3669 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;


Gmburns2000


Nov 22, 2013, 3:36 AM
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Re: [edge] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

fantastic with her edit saying she'd sue over copyright and someone did, in fact, quote it.

It's a good read and a valuable thread for sure.


Partner cracklover


Nov 22, 2013, 7:15 AM
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Re: [edge] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Thanks for finding the original thread. Great discussion there. Combined with my link, that has the original post, you get pretty much the whole story.

GO


rgbscan


Nov 22, 2013, 7:38 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

Haha, I wasn't going to reveal my "mad wayback skills" out of respect for dredging up old crap, but looks like someone linked it already. The wayback route involved knowing that she changed her name to "calamity_chk" and then pulling old threads against that user name.

Since the cat's out of the bag..... The profile still exists with the pix if you want to see.... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ername=calamity_chk;

And you can read the rest as others have posted.


carabiner96


Nov 22, 2013, 11:06 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

fantastic with her edit saying she'd sue over copyright and someone did, in fact, quote it.

It's a good read and a valuable thread for sure.
Does anyone have a link to the op? After reading all of that I feel I'm missing out!


Partner cracklover


Nov 22, 2013, 11:13 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

fantastic with her edit saying she'd sue over copyright and someone did, in fact, quote it.

It's a good read and a valuable thread for sure.
Does anyone have a link to the op? After reading all of that I feel I'm missing out!

Yes. I posted it. Can't you see it?

GO


Partner cracklover


Nov 22, 2013, 11:16 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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Since you missed it the first time, maybe I need to be more clear? Click on the underlined part. It's a hyperlink. It links to her post. OP = Original Post.

GO

cracklover wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

I think the original thread, along with a lot of superb commentary and insights, was deleted. But here's a link to a post that quoted the OP.

GO

GO


carabiner96


Nov 22, 2013, 11:24 AM
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cracklover wrote:
Since you missed it the first time, maybe I need to be more clear? Click on the underlined part. It's a hyperlink. It links to her post. OP = Original Post.

GO

cracklover wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Linky?

I think the original thread, along with a lot of superb commentary and insights, was deleted. But here's a link to a post that quoted the OP.

GO

GO
Thought they all linked to the same place, and in on the iyup. Was going to say, the original thread was rage free.


sungam


Nov 25, 2013, 8:16 PM
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sungam wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Isn't that the story that a 3rd party said was vastly exaggerated? Like the fall was like 1/8th the claimed length etc.
Gnarly photos though IIRC.

Yeah, here was the post I was talking about
shaun wrote:
Amber, Tim and everyone else:

Doug and I (shaun) were also there that night. I read Amber's post and about 8 pages of replies and could stand no more. There were several things that I disagree with.

Amber first off, we both want to say how thrilled we are that you are alive and safe. There was a moment when we thought you were going to die. We are so happy that you had the strength and sheer will to live. And after your fall, you kept it together enough to build an emergency anchor and get down safely. It was incredible. That being said, I have a different perspective on the accident and have decided to share it.

From our perch a few feet below Tim at the top of pitch 3, it seemed to us that there were some major red flags that were missed. We sat there on our porta ledge for several hours while Amber finished the pitch and rappelled. Much of it was very tense as Amber and Tim argued over Amber's lack of experience, what to do about the gear that was being left behind, etc. It was a very tense and unenjoyable couple hours listening to you two argue.

Amber, you were on rappel for about two hours before you ran out of rope. You started the rap around dusk (6:30ish) and the accident happened around 9:00. After getting safely to the top of the block you guys spent an hour or more there finally rapped off around 11:00.

I thought you fell about 20 - 30 feet - no more. You basically took a lead fall. As you fell past the piece below you, it became your top anchor. The rope burn occured as the single line rushed through your rap device. Somehow you came to a stop. It was a combination of the friction created by the rope getting caught in the belay device, around your arm, and in your daisy. That's how I remember it.

Anyway, my real focus is Tim.

Tim thought Amber was rapping on two ropes. Fair enough, but why didn't he notice that one of her ropes was moving as she rapped down. If her ropes were truly fixed, they would have been stationary, but one rope was clipped to Amber's haul line and so was lowering as Amber was lowering. Tim should have seen this, especially since he gave at least 2-3 fireman's belays as Amber rapped (to keep her secure while she worked to remove certain pieces of gear). It's incredible that he was actually pulling directly on Amber's haul line, but somehow neither of you noticed.

And finally, Amber was rapping in the dark for about two hours before the accident actually happened. Tim had a flashlight but never offered it to Amber. After an hour and a half or so, we offered one of ours (which ran out of batteries unfortunately). 10 - 15 minutes before the accident Tim told amber (part of all the aguing that was happening) he had done everything he could do for Amber, and that this was her fault for biting off more than she could chew, but he never offered her his headlamp which may have helped significantly.

Why?


marc801


Nov 25, 2013, 8:34 PM
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Ya know, I read that thread back then and even reposted parts after the attempt to remove it from the net. Frankly, I don't think it needs to be rehashed here. Or, if people feel it necessary, it should really be in a different thread. Anything further on that thoroughly analyzed and dissected incident here just serves to dilute the intent of this thread.


carabiner96


Nov 25, 2013, 9:02 PM
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sungam wrote:
sungam wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Isn't that the story that a 3rd party said was vastly exaggerated? Like the fall was like 1/8th the claimed length etc.
Gnarly photos though IIRC.

Yeah, here was the post I was talking about
shaun wrote:
Amber, Tim and everyone else:

Doug and I (shaun) were also there that night. I read Amber's post and about 8 pages of replies and could stand no more. There were several things that I disagree with.

Amber first off, we both want to say how thrilled we are that you are alive and safe. There was a moment when we thought you were going to die. We are so happy that you had the strength and sheer will to live. And after your fall, you kept it together enough to build an emergency anchor and get down safely. It was incredible. That being said, I have a different perspective on the accident and have decided to share it.

From our perch a few feet below Tim at the top of pitch 3, it seemed to us that there were some major red flags that were missed. We sat there on our porta ledge for several hours while Amber finished the pitch and rappelled. Much of it was very tense as Amber and Tim argued over Amber's lack of experience, what to do about the gear that was being left behind, etc. It was a very tense and unenjoyable couple hours listening to you two argue.

Amber, you were on rappel for about two hours before you ran out of rope. You started the rap around dusk (6:30ish) and the accident happened around 9:00. After getting safely to the top of the block you guys spent an hour or more there finally rapped off around 11:00.

I thought you fell about 20 - 30 feet - no more. You basically took a lead fall. As you fell past the piece below you, it became your top anchor. The rope burn occured as the single line rushed through your rap device. Somehow you came to a stop. It was a combination of the friction created by the rope getting caught in the belay device, around your arm, and in your daisy. That's how I remember it.

Anyway, my real focus is Tim.

Tim thought Amber was rapping on two ropes. Fair enough, but why didn't he notice that one of her ropes was moving as she rapped down. If her ropes were truly fixed, they would have been stationary, but one rope was clipped to Amber's haul line and so was lowering as Amber was lowering. Tim should have seen this, especially since he gave at least 2-3 fireman's belays as Amber rapped (to keep her secure while she worked to remove certain pieces of gear). It's incredible that he was actually pulling directly on Amber's haul line, but somehow neither of you noticed.

And finally, Amber was rapping in the dark for about two hours before the accident actually happened. Tim had a flashlight but never offered it to Amber. After an hour and a half or so, we offered one of ours (which ran out of batteries unfortunately). 10 - 15 minutes before the accident Tim told amber (part of all the aguing that was happening) he had done everything he could do for Amber, and that this was her fault for biting off more than she could chew, but he never offered her his headlamp which may have helped significantly.

Why?
I kinda wish someone had told me to skip to the second to last page, I read the whole damn thing. Definitely read like a well neutered thread.


granite_grrl


Nov 26, 2013, 4:27 AM
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sungam wrote:
sungam wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rgbscan wrote:
I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO
Isn't that the story that a 3rd party said was vastly exaggerated? Like the fall was like 1/8th the claimed length etc.
Gnarly photos though IIRC.

Yeah, here was the post I was talking about
shaun wrote:
Amber, Tim and everyone else:

Doug and I (shaun) were also there that night. I read Amber's post and about 8 pages of replies and could stand no more. There were several things that I disagree with.

Amber first off, we both want to say how thrilled we are that you are alive and safe. There was a moment when we thought you were going to die. We are so happy that you had the strength and sheer will to live. And after your fall, you kept it together enough to build an emergency anchor and get down safely. It was incredible. That being said, I have a different perspective on the accident and have decided to share it.

From our perch a few feet below Tim at the top of pitch 3, it seemed to us that there were some major red flags that were missed. We sat there on our porta ledge for several hours while Amber finished the pitch and rappelled. Much of it was very tense as Amber and Tim argued over Amber's lack of experience, what to do about the gear that was being left behind, etc. It was a very tense and unenjoyable couple hours listening to you two argue.

Amber, you were on rappel for about two hours before you ran out of rope. You started the rap around dusk (6:30ish) and the accident happened around 9:00. After getting safely to the top of the block you guys spent an hour or more there finally rapped off around 11:00.

I thought you fell about 20 - 30 feet - no more. You basically took a lead fall. As you fell past the piece below you, it became your top anchor. The rope burn occured as the single line rushed through your rap device. Somehow you came to a stop. It was a combination of the friction created by the rope getting caught in the belay device, around your arm, and in your daisy. That's how I remember it.

Anyway, my real focus is Tim.

Tim thought Amber was rapping on two ropes. Fair enough, but why didn't he notice that one of her ropes was moving as she rapped down. If her ropes were truly fixed, they would have been stationary, but one rope was clipped to Amber's haul line and so was lowering as Amber was lowering. Tim should have seen this, especially since he gave at least 2-3 fireman's belays as Amber rapped (to keep her secure while she worked to remove certain pieces of gear). It's incredible that he was actually pulling directly on Amber's haul line, but somehow neither of you noticed.

And finally, Amber was rapping in the dark for about two hours before the accident actually happened. Tim had a flashlight but never offered it to Amber. After an hour and a half or so, we offered one of ours (which ran out of batteries unfortunately). 10 - 15 minutes before the accident Tim told amber (part of all the aguing that was happening) he had done everything he could do for Amber, and that this was her fault for biting off more than she could chew, but he never offered her his headlamp which may have helped significantly.

Why?

That post from Shaun makes me sad.

In terms of things being exagerated, probably. How many times have you fallen: "that must have been a 40ft wipper!", but in reality you only fell 20ft.


rgbscan


Nov 26, 2013, 9:13 AM
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marc801 wrote:
Ya know, I read that thread back then and even reposted parts after the attempt to remove it from the net. Frankly, I don't think it needs to be rehashed here. Or, if people feel it necessary, it should really be in a different thread. Anything further on that thoroughly analyzed and dissected incident here just serves to dilute the intent of this thread.

I don't think it needs to be rehashed either, but I think it illustrates a couple things for the new owner....

1) There used to be a very strong community here where everyone knew everyone. That's hard to bottle up and recapture, but it doesn't really exist here anymore. 2)That community IMHO sort of fractured into cliques. This pro-amber/anti-amber thread sort of illustrates. Any attempt to disagree with the cool kids was a good way to get banned or down modded - even before the accident. I always felt there was an "in crowd" here that sort of had their way with the forums. That should be addressed (again IMHO). 3) The terms and conditions of the site should lay out clear rules around how mods should act and who owns what content. 4) Threads like this, while controversial, had a lot of good lessons for noobs - and rc was known as the main noob destination. This sort of thing is what noobs need to see so they can learn from it, It shouldn't have been hidden. Locked perhaps, but not hidden.

Anyway, just my two cents. Not at all looking to rehash dead threads. This one especially. That horse has been beat to a pulp :-)


sungam


Nov 26, 2013, 10:25 AM
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I quoted it here because I got some "permission denied" and thought the threadhad been binned or something, so I wanted to save that post.


pedro_sandchez


Dec 9, 2013, 11:41 AM
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How much work is it going to take to get the news on the landing page updated?
Right now those articles are almost a year old. It drives me insane.


mojomonkey


Dec 9, 2013, 12:38 PM
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pedro_sandchez wrote:
How much work is it going to take to get the news on the landing page updated?
Right now those articles are almost a year old. It drives me insane.

Looks like those are fueled by user submissions. Going to articles I (eventually) found the Submit an article link.

I'd guess that folks aren't generally aware of that feature. There is likely nobody employed to look for and post relevant news. Clicking on a few, they are "submitted by 'admin'", though clicking on the 'admin' user name shows it not to exist.


pedro_sandchez


Dec 9, 2013, 12:40 PM
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mojomonkey wrote:
pedro_sandchez wrote:
How much work is it going to take to get the news on the landing page updated?
Right now those articles are almost a year old. It drives me insane.

Looks like those are fueled by user submissions. Going to articles I (eventually) found the Submit an article link.

I'd guess that folks aren't generally aware of that feature. There is likely nobody employed to look for and post relevant news. Clicking on a few, they are "submitted by 'admin'", though clicking on the 'admin' user name shows it not to exist.

Excellent info! Thanks checking into that.
Just followed your directions. It would be nice if the news could just link to already published articles rather than having to enter an entirely new report. I'd gladly start submitting articles on the reg if that were the case.


(This post was edited by pedro_sandchez on Dec 9, 2013, 12:53 PM)


ncrockclimber


Dec 10, 2013, 12:02 PM
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Re: [Jeff] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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The first thing you see on the hompage is the photo. Have you looked at these photos?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Profile/Me__122089.html

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Misc/Nic_and_Natalie_while_on_the_Bear_Mountain_Trail_122337.html

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Misc/80_degrees_tropical_humidity_and_lots_of_Mosquitos_ill_have_a_swig_of_water_to_that__122338.html

Those three have NOTHING to do with climbing.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/Tahquitz__122186.html

Honestly, this looks like a parody of a new climber who does not know what they are doing. There are 19 photos that rotate on the front page. I picked out the 4 worst, but some of the others are not that great either.

Take a look at Supertopo or MP.com. Both sites have some great photos on their front page.


(This post was edited by ncrockclimber on Dec 10, 2013, 12:03 PM)


mojomonkey


Dec 10, 2013, 12:46 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2006
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Re: [ncrockclimber] Hi--I'm the new RockClimbing.com owner--ask me anything [In reply to]
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This has been mentioned - in this thread I think. I don't fault those users for submitting lots of pictures for their profiles - it is a symptom of the site's apathetic participation, just like articles. There are so few people submitting photos and that the bar to reach the front page is pretty low. All it apparently takes is a couple of votes. Ed can get a few friends to guarantee a front page slot. Or a picture with a girl will get voted up (and get creepy comments like bearbreeder asking for a close up of her tie in point).

It takes more people submitting climbing photos, and more folks voting on them. Perhaps in the meantime some tweaks can be made, and later adjusted if participation picks up? Maybe photo editors, since they have to approve of photos anyway, could flag non-front-page-eligible based on some site guidelines (with non-climbing "avatar" shots in the not bin?).

As for increasing photo submissions, the submission and album interface would probably need to be redone to be more user friendly. Presentation is pretty poor now in terms of finding photos and the postage stamp sized previews available. Look at how little of the photo page for recent submissions is actual image - there is more text and whitespace per entry than there is photo!

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