Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE!
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


1climbergirl


Jan 14, 2014, 7:53 PM
Post #1 of 42 (4696 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE!
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Ok, so I have been climbing for like a month. I've been in the gym today, I decided to climb to the "edgy" and "more inclined" parts in the climbing gym. Problem is I CAN'T FREAKING CLIMB THE FREAKING EDGY STEEP ROCK. I've been advised by my instructor and all I CAN'T FOLLOW them, I'm so FRUSTRATED till now.

So I found what's holding me back: Instead of my weight being in my LEGS, I PUT MY WEIGHT IN MY ARMS! My arms are thin and weak. Even if I keep forcing my weight to be on my legs, I can't, it automatically goes to my arms, BECAUSE I KEEP HANGING!

Then, I also attempted to do dyno, because I can't reach some rocks because the nearby rocks are too small and slippery. Im pretty sure I do the right position but then when I reach, MY HANDS WOULD ALWAYS SLIP!

Well in general I wanna ask:
1. How to AVOID putting my weight on my arms when hanging and climbing and put the weight in my LEGS instead?
2. How do I NOT get my hands slip when doing DYNO?
3. HOW DO I CLIMB A STEEP ROCK?! I've been attempting to do them for like 5 times and I end up getting my arms very used and go home.

PS: I was thinking maybe my shoes are too slippery or my climbing methods are wrong!

At the end, I end up giving up and going home with painful and sore arms. Unsure I tried to search for climbing techniques, THEY ALL SAY THE SAME THING TO PUT MY WEIGHT ON LEGS BUT WHEN I TRY (I tried 5 mins ago in my door) I END UP USING MY ARMS!! Frown

NEED YOUR ADVICES please Im so totally frustrated! Thanks!!


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 14, 2014, 9:45 PM)


olderic


Jan 14, 2014, 8:04 PM
Post #2 of 42 (4689 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1536

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Looks like another one lobbed up for Lena - I'm sure she'll bite...


1climbergirl


Jan 14, 2014, 8:22 PM
Post #3 of 42 (4672 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [olderic] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
Looks like another one lobbed up for Lena - I'm sure she'll bite...

What are you talking about? I'm pretty sure you're being sarcastic or something. I just need people to help me about my climbing, I don't see anything wrong with that.


JimTitt


Jan 14, 2014, 11:13 PM
Post #4 of 42 (4618 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 977

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Get your feet higher.


jt512


Jan 14, 2014, 11:37 PM
Post #5 of 42 (4612 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [JimTitt] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.


1climbergirl


Jan 14, 2014, 11:50 PM
Post #6 of 42 (4607 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.

Easier said than done. My instructor told me also that but I still end up grabbing the rock and hang with my arms. Even if my feet are high enough, I still don't feel the weight in my legs but still in my arms! I've been attempting for the nth time, but my arms!
It's like instead of legs to be in support I end up doing the support in my arms. Unsure I don't know what to do anymore! Seems my arms are uncontrollable. I need better advices than that. I end up getting my arms tired and stop climbing Unsure


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 14, 2014, 11:52 PM)


JohnCook


Jan 15, 2014, 3:25 AM
Post #7 of 42 (4570 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 26, 2006
Posts: 221

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Take a step back.
Go onto some slab angled routes. Pick an easy route with big holds. Get a tennis ball on each hand, and repeatedly climb the easy route on just your legs with hands for balance. Work up from here.
At sometime or another almost every climber has been through the same problem of learning a new technique. You cannot learn a new technique if you are at your limit or even close. You will resort to old practices. So for a new technique, like making you legs do the work, you get on an easy route and get the technique imprinted, and the build up through the grade. It may take some time to get it right, but when you do the feeling is great. If your instructor is any good s/he will have recommended this type of exercise. It works for many techniques. Go back to beginnings and get it imprinted in an easy situation where there is no pressure, and then apply it to gradually increasing difficulty of routes.


Shanna


Jan 15, 2014, 8:33 AM
Post #8 of 42 (4513 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 7, 2012
Posts: 21

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You say your hands are slipping- this might be obvious but are you using chalk? I recall some post and you are in asia? is it hot in the gym? I always find dynos to be much harder when it is hot vs cold.
Climbing is a technique/movement based skill. You state you have been climbing one month?? Give yourself 3 months to learn this skill, practice it 3x/ week and report back (Patience is needed in rock climbing and there is value in appreciating the process).
How steep of a wall are you on? You might get better feedback if you can tell us if the wall is 25deg, 45deg etc. In my experience, the angle of the wall dictates some of the technique and the arm power required....


funk


Jan 15, 2014, 9:34 AM
Post #9 of 42 (4497 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 9, 2008
Posts: 109

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

1)work on your footwork. do sit ups and leg lefts. put xmas bells on your shoes. climb until you figure out how to stop them from ringing
2) stop climbing in the gym. or at least stop expecting anything meaningful with regards to actual rock climbing to come from it.
3)Dyno's are 1:10,000 on rock.
4) concern yourself more with being able to lock a crimp off at your belly button.


jt512


Jan 15, 2014, 11:05 AM
Post #10 of 42 (4472 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
jt512 wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.

Easier said than done. My instructor told me also that but I still end up grabbing the rock and hang with my arms. Even if my feet are high enough, I still don't feel the weight in my legs but still in my arms! I've been attempting for the nth time, but my arms!
It's like instead of legs to be in support I end up doing the support in my arms. Unsure I don't know what to do anymore! Seems my arms are uncontrollable. I need better advices than that. I end up getting my arms tired and stop climbing Unsure

Get this book, watch the accompanying DVD, and start doing the exercises.


hyhuu


Jan 15, 2014, 12:07 PM
Post #11 of 42 (4459 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 491

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

OP - You are new to climbing so it's natural that it feels hard. Most people go through the same process. On steep wall, you will feel the weight on your arms. It will take times to develope strength and proper techniques. Right now just have fun trying and watch how other climbers climb to see what works better for you.

Also, instead of feeling frustrated, use that as a motivation to try again.


curt


Jan 15, 2014, 2:16 PM
Post #12 of 42 (4412 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18229

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
jt512 wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.

Easier said than done. My instructor told me also that but I still end up grabbing the rock and hang with my arms...

Well, don't do that.

Curt


dorienc


Jan 15, 2014, 5:50 PM
Post #13 of 42 (4373 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2009
Posts: 49

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You've been climbing a month. It takes time to get good. If you're on overhangs, yes, they are hard, yes, you do need upper body strength, but also, yes, pushing with your legs and tightening your abs can help. It's also about body positioning, and if you are just facing the rock on an overhang, you probably are in trouble.
Forget dynos. They are for fun, when you are at that point.

A month? Climb more. That's the best thing. Climb the stuff you can climb, and then climb the stuff you almost can. This will make you stronger bit by bit.

A month? Pshaw. It takes time. "5 times"? Try 50000 times. And yes, your arms get tired and hurt. Climbing is hard work.


ConquertheCrux


Jan 15, 2014, 7:59 PM
Post #14 of 42 (4355 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2013
Posts: 8

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I agree with dorienc.

You have to be much more patient i understand that you want to become a better climber but you also want to avoid injury. You've only been climbing for one month and developing proper finger strength takes years. Attempting dyno's this early in the game is just asking for finger injuries. I'd stay away from those for now. Plus, it isn't a necessary skill you need to climb better.

As for climbing on steeper angles, the best advice I can give you to start is to focus on your body positioning. Climbing on an angle while your hips are square with the wall requires you to pull up with your arms every time to reach the next hold. This uses a lot of strength and energy. Instead, twist your body into the wall so that your hips become perpendicular with the wall. This brings you much closer to your next hold, puts more weight on your feet and doesn't require you to pull up with your arms.

Hopefully that helps, but to be honest, the most valuable advice you can get is to be patient and climb smart. Don't push your body past where it's not ready to go. The tendons in your fingers strengthen much slower than the muscles in your fingers do. Don't put yourself out before you've even started.


jt512


Jan 16, 2014, 12:11 AM
Post #15 of 42 (4317 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [ConquertheCrux] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

ConquertheCrux wrote:
blah, blah, blah

You are the most elaborate troll I have ever seen. I can't wait to find out what it is you're actually peddling.

Seriously, girl, with your skills, you should be fishing in a much deeper pond.


marc801


Jan 16, 2014, 7:34 AM
Post #16 of 42 (4261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2742

Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
ConquertheCrux wrote:
blah, blah, blah

You are the most elaborate troll I have ever seen. I can't wait to find out what it is you're actually peddling.

Seriously, girl, with your skills, you should be fishing in a much deeper pond.
Huh? You're calling ConquertheCrux a troll? But that's actually reasonable advice for the OP. Is the OP the troll?
I'm confused.
Wait! Are you suggesting that they are one in the same?


ConquertheCrux


Jan 16, 2014, 5:20 PM
Post #17 of 42 (4198 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2013
Posts: 8

Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

It's sad to see what the online climbing community is coming too. The climbing community is one of the reasons why I love climbing so much when I started.

I will always have the desire to help others and give advice. Climbing is my passion. It is not my problem if you don't agree with the advice I have. You are entitled to your own opinion.

Instead, why don't you try helping a climber out and give her some solid advice?


jt512


Jan 16, 2014, 6:04 PM
Post #18 of 42 (4189 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [marc801] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

marc801 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
ConquertheCrux wrote:
blah, blah, blah

You are the most elaborate troll I have ever seen. I can't wait to find out what it is you're actually peddling.

Seriously, girl, with your skills, you should be fishing in a much deeper pond.
Huh? You're calling ConquertheCrux a troll?

Either she's a troll, or she just has a knack for designing web sites that make her look like a snake oil salesman.



http://conquerthecrux.com/


1climbergirl


Jan 16, 2014, 7:13 PM
Post #19 of 42 (4173 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

 I am thankful for all the advices but first things first I AM NOT A TROLL. I would never understand why you are calling me that, I joined this climbing community just to have you better climber' advices for a frustrated beginner like me. It saddens me when I am asking for advices then I'll be called a troll.

In reply to the person who ask if I used chalk, well, no. Becaus one of the climbers there in the gym told me it's not needed since it's a bit cold and damp but my hands are sweating, but still I don't think that's the main reason why I can't do dyno.


Body positioning is good but when I get to the rocks I suck!! I really can't control my body Thanks anyway for all advices. I'm still open for some


ConquertheCrux


Jan 16, 2014, 8:01 PM
Post #20 of 42 (4159 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2013
Posts: 8

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Don't worry 1climbergirl, they are calling me a troll not you.

I am embarrassed for the experience you've had by just asking for some advice. It's definitely not a good representation of the climbing community. Very unfortunate. I think you'd be better off asking fellow climbers at your gym for advice, particularly climbers that you see climbing whatever your weaknesses are. It's likely that you'll find some more friendly climbers there. The space here seems a bit negative for my liking.


marc801


Jan 16, 2014, 10:48 PM
Post #21 of 42 (4142 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2742

Re: [ConquertheCrux] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (6 ratings)  
Can't Post

ConquertheCrux wrote:
I am embarrassed for the experience you've had by just asking for some advice. It's definitely not a good representation of the climbing community. Very unfortunate.
Bullshit. There's been tons of good advice (not "advices", btw) in this and her other threads. The OP is choosing to not listen to a lot of it for whatever reasons, impatience likely being one.

1climbergirl: in a nutshell, people in this thread have told you
1. it's going to take longer than a month....or 2....or 12 - get used to it.
2. you're going to hurt at various times for as long as you climb - get used to it
3. some climbs are going to totally spank you and this will happen for as long as you climb - get used to it
4. dynos are used pretty infrequently on real rock, so stop obsessing over them
5. master techniques on easier climbs first so they are internalized and they become part of your toolkit. If you keep using poor techniques on climbs that are currently too difficult for you, all you're really doing is reinforcing poor technique
6. get that book and dvd that was mentioned
7. quit whining - it puts people off


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jan 16, 2014, 10:49 PM)


1climbergirl


Jan 17, 2014, 2:50 AM
Post #22 of 42 (4117 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [marc801] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it. I don't know much about climbing since Im new in this and so in the gym, I'm still ashamed to ask climbers in the gym I go to or even my instructor since I just moved so I tend to ask online, plus I go to school so I don't have much time to find all the questions I need covered by a million post in this site because I go still go to school, when I could just ask them here and get immediate answers. Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.


ConquertheCrux- I was thinking the "from beginners-to-intermediate-climber" people are the better ones to ask because they would really complete remember and know how they conquered such difficulty what I'm having right now. The book SELF-COACHED CLIMBER isn't available in Asia (where I am in right now) so I can't read it even if I wanted to.

Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

Im still open for suggestions about my question, I don't get much of the answers, and it's like it's easier said than done to me since I also need arms to climb on steep edges (esp with arms like mine really skinny and prone to pain). Thanks


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 17, 2014, 2:53 AM)


Gravitron5000


Jan 17, 2014, 6:44 AM
Post #23 of 42 (4067 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 16, 2007
Posts: 45

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

First of all, this is the internet, and some people on the internet are rude. It doesn't make them wrong, just rude. You're best off if you learn to take it with a grain of salt. Now, Marc's tone not be to your liking, but he brings up the point that climbing is a technical sport that takes work to learn. Keep climbing, watch other people that climb well and emulate their technique, be patient, and put loads of hours in. That's your best bet to improvement at the moment.

I found that when I was starting to climb overhanging terrain, knowing what I needed to do and getting myself to actually do it were also a problem. It took hours of practice working specifically the techniques that I wasn't able to execute before something clicked and it started to sink in.

For who you should ask, I would not avoid asking "strong" climbers as well. Many climbers are very analytical about climbing, and even if they have not had to deal with the issues that you are dealing with in a long time, they can probably tell you exactly what you are doing wrong and what things you should try to fix your technique.

As for chalk, being cold usually means that chalk is not needed as much, but damp and sweaty are exactly the conditions that climbing chalk will help with. If your hands are slipping because they are damp, chalk should help.

In reply to:
Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

They are not wrong, and there is no reason to feel like an idiot. You just need to practice, practice, practice.


kennoyce


Jan 17, 2014, 7:46 AM
Post #24 of 42 (4049 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1309

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it. I don't know much about climbing since Im new in this and so in the gym, I'm still ashamed to ask climbers in the gym I go to or even my instructor since I just moved so I tend to ask online, plus I go to school so I don't have much time to find all the questions I need covered by a million post in this site because I go still go to school, when I could just ask them here and get immediate answers. Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.


ConquertheCrux- I was thinking the "from beginners-to-intermediate-climber" people are the better ones to ask because they would really complete remember and know how they conquered such difficulty what I'm having right now. The book SELF-COACHED CLIMBER isn't available in Asia (where I am in right now) so I can't read it even if I wanted to.

Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

Im still open for suggestions about my question, I don't get much of the answers, and it's like it's easier said than done to me since I also need arms to climb on steep edges (esp with arms like mine really skinny and prone to pain). Thanks

I have to agree with gravitron5000 here, you may not like the tone of mark801's post, but the advice he gives is pretty good.

The couple of things I can recommend are as follows:

You've only been climbing for a short period of time, just have fun with it, try not to get injured, and improvement will come with practice.

Don't worry about what other climbers think of you or feel embarrassed. Everyone had to start at the beginning just like you, and in real life, most climbers tend to be pretty nice people.

When asking for advice, try asking the most experienced climbers you can find. Even though it may have been longer since they were at the climbing phase you are currently at, they will be much more likely to see exactly what you are doing wrong and exactly what you need to do to fix it. People closer to your level will have a much harder time doing this.

Overhangs will require upper body and arm strength no matter what. There is no magic way to use your legs on an overhang that will take all the weight off your arms. There are techniques that will help some, but you are going to have to increase your upper body and arm strength to be able to climb overhangs, that's just a fact. What's the best way to do this you may ask? Well, the answer is to keep trying overhangs. Just get on the easiest overhanging routes and go up and down them a bunch of times, when they start feeling easy, move to a harder problem or route and do the same.

Lastly, improvement takes time. I know it can be frustrating, but try to be patient and the improvement will come.

Oh and really lastly, this is the internet, you've got to harden up a bit because people are much more rude when they are hiding behind an anonymous username on a screen.


lena_chita
Moderator

Jan 17, 2014, 8:48 AM
Post #25 of 42 (4024 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5653

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it. I don't know much about climbing since Im new in this and so in the gym, I'm still ashamed to ask climbers in the gym I go to or even my instructor since I just moved so I tend to ask online, plus I go to school so I don't have much time to find all the questions I need covered by a million post in this site because I go still go to school, when I could just ask them here and get immediate answers. Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.


ConquertheCrux- I was thinking the "from beginners-to-intermediate-climber" people are the better ones to ask because they would really complete remember and know how they conquered such difficulty what I'm having right now. The book SELF-COACHED CLIMBER isn't available in Asia (where I am in right now) so I can't read it even if I wanted to.

Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

Im still open for suggestions about my question, I don't get much of the answers, and it's like it's easier said than done to me since I also need arms to climb on steep edges (esp with arms like mine really skinny and prone to pain). Thanks

People who really want to do something, DO it. People who don't want to try hard, find excuses.

You've got plenty of advice and encouragement here, so far. But there is only so much someone on the internet can do for you.

"Self-coached climber book is not available in Asia"--waaahhhhh, oh no!!!!! -- "I can't read it, even if I wanted to!"

That is a definition of excuse. You moved to Asia from California, right? You might know one or two people who still live in California? Some school friends of yours? Your PARENTS might know one or two people? Ask them to buy the book for you, and ship it to you. Send them a check. Yes, it will be more expensive than it would be for someone in the US, but it is still worth every penny.

You are fortunate to have an instructor-- ask him/her. They are there to teach you. Being too embarrassed to ask the very person who is in the best position to help you is just plain stupid.

Getting good at climbing takes years, and every good climber continues to work hard in order to continue improvement (And that often means failing, repeatedly, until you get it)

Every sport is the same, in this respect. Knowing what you are supposed to do is not the same as being able to do it. You wouldn't get on the snowboard and expect to do a backflip on your first day, just because someone told you HOW it is done. You wouldn't expect to walk into a gymnastics class, watch an instructor show you how to do a kip, and be able to do it on the high bar on your first try.

You are young, you are still in school. Maybe up until now you had everything explained to you in detail, until you "got it". Maybe up until now you never had to try hard, to master some skill. Well, you won't be in school for much longer. In real life you have to figure things out on your own. You have to use your initiative, and you have to keep trying.


marc801


Jan 17, 2014, 8:49 AM
Post #26 of 42 (1511 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2742

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it.
<snip>
Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.
Where did I ever say it was easy? In fact, quite the opposite. It's difficult, it's physical, it's mental, and it takes a crap-ton of work to get better. All I did was boil down the excellent advice you've been given by others into a few short sentences and yes, a lot of things that you're complaining about really do require the realization that that is part of what climbing is all about, hence the need to face reality and.....get used to certain things that are part of the sport. Climbing is as much a mental puzzle as it is physical - "chess problems in the air" as Pat Ament once wrote - and climbing at the higher levels requires physical conditioning and training not unlike that of an Olympic gymnast.

1climbergirl wrote:
I don't know much about climbing since Im new...
You keep saying this. Get some books and read - stop using the excuse.
"The Self Coached Climber" is one (and was mentioned earlier - and will answer a lot of the questions you've been asking). "How to Rock Climb" by John Long is another. [ http://www.amazon.com/...Series/dp/B002WTC9VU ]

In reply to:
I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer.... Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything.
Some write multiple paragraphs, many others a single sentence or two. Don't equate brevity with rudeness. If you're that easily offended, maybe discussion forums aren't for you. It's not our job to stroke your ego and make you feel better.

Did you read the new user FAQ when you signed up for the site?


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jan 17, 2014, 9:12 AM)


1climbergirl


Jan 17, 2014, 5:29 PM
Post #27 of 42 (1469 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [kennoyce] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
kennoyce wrote:

I have to agree with gravitron5000 here, you may not like the tone of mark801's post, but the advice he gives is pretty good.

The couple of things I can recommend are as follows:

You've only been climbing for a short period of time, just have fun with it, try not to get injured, and improvement will come with practice.

Don't worry about what other climbers think of you or feel embarrassed. Everyone had to start at the beginning just like you, and in real life, most climbers tend to be pretty nice people.

When asking for advice, try asking the most experienced climbers you can find. Even though it may have been longer since they were at the climbing phase you are currently at, they will be much more likely to see exactly what you are doing wrong and exactly what you need to do to fix it. People closer to your level will have a much harder time doing this.

Overhangs will require upper body and arm strength no matter what. There is no magic way to use your legs on an overhang that will take all the weight off your arms. There are techniques that will help some, but you are going to have to increase your upper body and arm strength to be able to climb overhangs, that's just a fact. What's the best way to do this you may ask? Well, the answer is to keep trying overhangs. Just get on the easiest overhanging routes and go up and down them a bunch of times, when they start feeling easy, move to a harder problem or route and do the same.

Lastly, improvement takes time. I know it can be frustrating, but try to be patient and the improvement will come.

Oh and really lastly, this is the internet, you've got to harden up a bit because people are much more rude when they are hiding behind an anonymous username on a screen.

Kennoyce and Gravitron5000, you were right, but I don't really find marc801's comments helping at all as much as the other climber's advices. To me, he make it sound so easy by his tone.

Any way,
In reply to:
As for chalk, being cold usually means that chalk is not needed as much, but damp and sweaty are exactly the conditions that climbing chalk will help with. If your hands are slipping because they are damp, chalk should help.

I guess I was wrong about this, but still, I don't find it the major problem why I could not execute dyno or climbing at steep rocks. With all honesty, I never used a chalk before. I thought they aren't needed.


In reply to:
Overhangs will require upper body and arm strength no matter what. There is no magic way to use your legs on an overhang that will take all the weight off your arms. There are techniques that will help some, but you are going to have to increase your upper body and arm strength to be able to climb overhangs, that's just a fact. What's the best way to do this you may ask? Well, the answer is to keep trying overhangs. Just get on the easiest overhanging routes and go up and down them a bunch of times, when they start feeling easy, move to a harder problem or route and do the same.

@kennoyce- I know but, wouldn't you require good arms for overhangs? Mine is "osteoporotic" skinny (very skinny) I'm so afraid that my arms wouldn't hold my weight much. In my first post, I asked if my skinny arms are still candidate for rock climbing and people said yes and Im just confused when some people tells me "put your weight off your legs" then you said "you require arm strength". Can you please enlighten me more? I know it sounds stupid, but really that would be a good advice if you could just help me understand and all.

Im just new in Asia and alone, I feel a bit awkward, but still I'll do my best to ask my instructor. I know I still have a long way to go.

PS: I know this is the internet and a lot of rude people would be anywhere. But there's no really need to Marc801 to cuss at me, call me a troll, or anything. This is why I don't like the internet much, you would ask a question and then some people would cuss you. It's like arguing to an uncivilised person.

Any way thanks to the comments, really appreciated them.


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 18, 2014, 12:10 AM)


marc801


Jan 17, 2014, 8:53 PM
Post #28 of 42 (1452 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2742

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
PS: I know this is the internet and a lot of rude people would be anywhere. But there's no really need to Marc801 to cuss at me, call me a troll, or anything.
Reread my post. Apparently reading comprehension and learning how internet discussion forum posts work is something else for you to work on. Never cursed at you or called you a troll. If you'll notice, my post wasn't even replying to one of your posts.

When I replied, I specifically referred to you in the part where I said "To the OP". The stuff before that was the reply to ConquertheCrux.

OP = original post or poster, in case you didn't know.


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jan 17, 2014, 8:57 PM)


1climbergirl


Jan 17, 2014, 10:50 PM
Post #29 of 42 (1442 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [marc801] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

By OP you were referring to me, I assumed. By OP with what I know, is the person who started a thread. If you were talking about ConquertheCrux, then what's with this?:

In reply to:
Huh? You're calling ConquertheCrux a troll? But that's actually reasonable advice for the OP. Is the OP the troll?
I'm confused.
Wait! Are you suggesting that they are one in the same?

In reply to:
The OP is choosing to not listen to a lot of it for whatever reasons, impatience likely being one.

Of course, what would you expect to a beginner? Every beginner is automatically impatient on doing well so he or she will ask what it takes to be as good as he or she can be.

In reply to:
If you'll notice, my post wasn't even replying to one of your posts.
Then what's this:

In reply to:
1climbergirl: in a nutshell, people in this thread have told you
1. it's going to take longer than a month....or 2....or 12 - get used to it.
2. you're going to hurt at various times for as long as you climb - get used to it
3. some climbs are going to totally spank you and this will happen for as long as you climb - get used to it
4. dynos are used pretty infrequently on real rock, so stop obsessing over them
5. master techniques on easier climbs first so they are internalized and they become part of your toolkit. If you keep using poor techniques on climbs that are currently too difficult for you, all you're really doing is reinforcing poor technique
6. get that book and dvd that was mentioned
7. quit whining - it puts people off

If you are really willing to help a frustrated beginner, you can at least say it as "gentle" as possible. Call me a person who "does not belong to the internet" and all but really, there are a lot of climbers who could help me out with my struggles, to give me their advices and experiences when they began, I wouldn't need yours if you would just comment, or give me some "advices" in a bad way. I feel bad about being frustrated beginner because I envy some people who are used to it. I know what the other posters are talking about but I want to see more which might actually work for me. No need to be rude and all (even you're anonymous).


jt512


Jan 17, 2014, 11:14 PM
Post #30 of 42 (1436 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
By OP you were referring to me, I assumed. By OP with what I know, is the person who started a thread. If you were talking about ConquertheCrux, then what's with this?:

In reply to:
Huh? You're calling ConquertheCrux a troll? But that's actually reasonable advice for the OP. Is the OP the troll?
I'm confused.
Wait! Are you suggesting that they are one in the same?

In reply to:
The OP is choosing to not listen to a lot of it for whatever reasons, impatience likely being one.

Of course, what would you expect to a beginner? Every beginner is automatically impatient on doing well so he or she will ask what it takes to be as good as he or she can be.

In reply to:
If you'll notice, my post wasn't even replying to one of your posts.
Then what's this:

In reply to:
1climbergirl: in a nutshell, people in this thread have told you
1. it's going to take longer than a month....or 2....or 12 - get used to it.
2. you're going to hurt at various times for as long as you climb - get used to it
3. some climbs are going to totally spank you and this will happen for as long as you climb - get used to it
4. dynos are used pretty infrequently on real rock, so stop obsessing over them
5. master techniques on easier climbs first so they are internalized and they become part of your toolkit. If you keep using poor techniques on climbs that are currently too difficult for you, all you're really doing is reinforcing poor technique
6. get that book and dvd that was mentioned
7. quit whining - it puts people off

If you are really willing to help a frustrated beginner, you can at least say it as "gentle" as possible. Call me a person who "does not belong to the internet" and all but really, there are a lot of climbers who could help me out with my struggles, to give me their advices and experiences when they began, I wouldn't need yours if you would just comment, or give me some "advices" in a bad way. I feel bad about being frustrated beginner because I envy some people who are used to it. I know what the other posters are talking about but I want to see more which might actually work for me. No need to be rude and all (even you're anonymous).

Is your mother named Enigma, by any chance?


1climbergirl


Jan 17, 2014, 11:57 PM
Post #31 of 42 (1425 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
If you're that easily offended, maybe discussion forums aren't for you. It's not our job to stroke your ego and make you feel better.

Marc801, it's very simple. You're annoyed with my post? Then ignore them. Why do you keep coming back to bash me with your unnecessary comments? Again, I came here to ask. And what makes you think a discussion forum isn't for me? For all I know discussion forums are made for sharing ideas and enlightenment.

:Sigh: I don't what your deals are about me asking some simple questions, but it's pretty tiringFrown. If you would gladly give some experiences and advices and answer my questions, for a frustrated beginner then THANK YOU, if not then OKAY (no need for unnecessary trollish comments). I have received helpful comments and I really appreciated them. Even if I wanted the book suggested to me badly, I'm afraid I should get another alternative books. I'll do my best not to be shy to ask my instructor about some techniques.

THANKS PEOPLE for the HELPFUL COMMENTS.


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 18, 2014, 12:12 AM)


JohnCook


Jan 18, 2014, 4:17 AM
Post #32 of 42 (1399 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 26, 2006
Posts: 221

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The problem is 1climbergirl, that you came here to ask, several people answered and you then made excuses for why their advice would not work for you.
Firstly you need to work hard on the basics of climbing and get good at them. (You wouldn't do three math lessons and then expect to do calculus!)
Ignore dynos. I have climbed for many years (47) and doubt if I have done more than one or two 'dynos' a year outside. Most people in the 'lower' grades, up to 5.11 dyno to overcome lack of technique, (unless it is a specific dyno set in a gym which you should avoid).
Work up to overhangs, and in that working up and learning good technique, your arms and upper body strength with improve incrementally. Rush it and you WILL be injured. (Dynoing will almost certainly strain finger, hand and forearm muscles and tendons!)
Go on amazon and buy self coached climber, and work through it very slowly, to allow your body (especially tendons) to keep up with your improvements.
My last climbing partner in the USA was 5ft 2ins and weighed in at less than 90 lbs. (When she was in shorts and a tee shirt eagles used to follow her thinking they had found a pre-skinned rabbit. [private joke between me and her about the eagle that hovered 40ft away from her on an outdoor route!])I introduced her to climbing, and made sure that she didn't try to go through the process of learning too fast. After a year she had gained about 5lbs, could lead 10+ had brilliant footwork, and couldn't get her feet off the floor on a pull-up bar! When I left she was just breaking into overhanging stuff (after a year) and 4 years into climbing leads about 5.10d/11a.
It is a gradual process, but worth every minute of the time spent.


1climbergirl


Jan 18, 2014, 5:45 AM
Post #33 of 42 (1391 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2014
Posts: 30

Re: [JohnCook] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JohnCook wrote:
The problem is 1climbergirl, that you came here to ask, several people answered and you then made excuses for why their advice would not work for you.
Firstly you need to work hard on the basics of climbing and get good at them. (You wouldn't do three math lessons and then expect to do calculus!)
Ignore dynos. I have climbed for many years (47) and doubt if I have done more than one or two 'dynos' a year outside. Most people in the 'lower' grades, up to 5.11 dyno to overcome lack of technique, (unless it is a specific dyno set in a gym which you should avoid).
Work up to overhangs, and in that working up and learning good technique, your arms and upper body strength with improve incrementally. Rush it and you WILL be injured. (Dynoing will almost certainly strain finger, hand and forearm muscles and tendons!)
Go on amazon and buy self coached climber, and work through it very slowly, to allow your body (especially tendons) to keep up with your improvements.
My last climbing partner in the USA was 5ft 2ins and weighed in at less than 90 lbs. (When she was in shorts and a tee shirt eagles used to follow her thinking they had found a pre-skinned rabbit. [private joke between me and her about the eagle that hovered 40ft away from her on an outdoor route!])I introduced her to climbing, and made sure that she didn't try to go through the process of learning too fast. After a year she had gained about 5lbs, could lead 10+ had brilliant footwork, and couldn't get her feet off the floor on a pull-up bar! When I left she was just breaking into overhanging stuff (after a year) and 4 years into climbing leads about 5.10d/11a.
It is a gradual process, but worth every minute of the time spent.

I know you're right. I just so want to do some awesome climbing techniques and at the same time am afraid of getting major injury with my arms which are so unimaginably skinny and bony that I think it would rip it off. I don't mean to do EXCUSES, I know what people are talking about. I just want THE EASIEST TRICK AS POSSIBLE. If they sound like excuses to you all I'm sorry. it isn't easy for me especially with a very fragile body and arms like mine, I can't just quit either. I don't understand much what people are telling me (the angling and positioning and twisting), like using my legs instead of arms I'm so frustrated when I execute them. People here tell me aside from changing body positioning which I have no idea how to do and still searching for answers, they seem to tell me all TO WAIT. So I end up asking for different advices. Sorry if I sound stupid and annoying, Im just overly frustrated these days (because I still can't climb a single steeped rock no matter what I do!!)

Any way thanks for the advice. I shall do my best. Guess all I have to do is to wait and train. Frown


JohnCook


Jan 18, 2014, 6:13 AM
Post #34 of 42 (1383 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 26, 2006
Posts: 221

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am not saying 'wait'. I am saying build up to, which is a very different thing. For example, I now have arthritis in my fingers. To do routes on steep walls I have had to change technique. After 45 years of climbing I had to learn something new. It has taken me almost 2 years to manage routes without hurting my hands using the 'new to me system'.
Don't think of giving up climbing, but do be patient, or you may injure yourself to the point where you may have to give up.
If your instructor cannot teach you about body position, foot work, etc as mentioned in this series of post, find one who can.
The other thing is that climbing is probably the most social sport there is. At the wall, watch a climber who is doing a hard route gracefully (especially if they are of slight build). Wait until they are down and resting, approach them, compliment them, and ask their advice. You will 9 times out of 10, find that the person is very understanding and helpful (because we have all been there) They may offer to watch you climb, and during the climb give help and advice in a way you can comprehend, or if you don't understand, will demonstrate and show you at ground level. This is how I learned in 1967. My recent technique change was helped along by watching and asking a top international climber who was recovering from a hand injury. He spent about 2 hours of his time explaining and demonstrating what to do. I put this into practice, and now after two years it comes as second nature. (to begin with, although I knew the technique and would do it on easier (for me) routes, as soon as I got near my limits I reverted back to old painful, injurious techniques.)
Stick with it and enjoy the learning process. Even little steps can give great satisfaction. Getting up a route I had done (outdoors) many times, and still being able to open my hand afterwards was worth the effort.
You will learn in steps. Learning is not a smooth progression. You will spend hour conciously working on something, and the, suddenly, it will just happen without thought.
Enjoy your climbing and enjoy life!
cookie


Gravitron5000


Jan 18, 2014, 7:23 AM
Post #35 of 42 (1373 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 16, 2007
Posts: 45

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
@kennoyce- I know but, wouldn't you require good arms for overhangs? Mine is "osteoporotic" skinny (very skinny) I'm so afraid that my arms wouldn't hold my weight much. In my first post, I asked if my skinny arms are still candidate for rock climbing and people said yes and Im just confused when some people tells me "put your weight off your legs" then you said "you require arm strength". Can you please enlighten me more? I know it sounds stupid, but really that would be a good advice if you could just help me understand and all.

Your skinny arms are still fine for rock climbing. Just because they are skinny doesn't mean that they can not become strong (and I said strong, not big). It just takes work to get there.


marc801


Jan 18, 2014, 8:07 AM
Post #36 of 42 (1366 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2742

Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Is your mother named Enigma, by any chance?
Ha! Alas, I think the reference is lost on her.
As is much of the advice from multiple people all saying the same thing. The only variance now are the excuses. I fear we've reached the point of diminishing returns for all involved.


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jan 18, 2014, 8:24 AM)


amarius


Jan 18, 2014, 8:25 AM
Post #37 of 42 (1359 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 23, 2012
Posts: 107

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
In my first post, I asked if my skinny arms are still candidate for rock climbing and people said yes and Im just confused when some people tells me "put your weight off your legs" then you said "you require arm strength". Can you please enlighten me more? I know it sounds stupid, but really that would be a good advice if you could just help me understand and all.

Some very serious generalizations have been applied, but here it goes.
Hand strength - hanging off a pull-up bar with dangling feet. Arms straight, shoulders pulled back. One can use open hand - just one finger join - grip for this, or closed hand.

Arm strength (ignoring involvement of hands for now) - doing a slow pullup - biceps muscles, and what not, are doing a lot of work. If you care to know which muscles are involved, google. Feet dangling, of course.

Now, imagine this - the pull-up bar is chin high, and you are in semi squat, able to reach the bar. The exercise is to get as high as possible. Two ways to do this - you do a full pull-up, that is no support from legs - or you use your legs to stand up - all weight on the legs, and you use hands for balance. Substitute floor and pull-up bar in this description with real footholds and handholds, and you got yourself a vertical wall, or slabby, leaning away from you, climb scenario.

It seems that you are slightly concerned about ability to gain strength and strain on your bones and joints - perhaps you should discuss this with a medical professional, and NOT your parents, the unlikely scenario that your parents have an inkling of medical knowledge is an exception. You could start, by doing your own research


gunkiemike


Jan 18, 2014, 5:46 PM
Post #38 of 42 (1323 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2263

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

1climbergirl wrote:
I know you're right. I just so want to do some awesome climbing techniques

You're new to this sport. You won't be doing anything awesome for quite a while. As others have said repeatedly in this thread: climbing is a real challenge and one does not get good at it quickly.

1climbergirl wrote:
I shall do my best. Guess all I have to do is to wait and train. Frown

Maybe you're starting to get the idea.


brooklynclimber


Jan 19, 2014, 9:35 PM
Post #39 of 42 (1288 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2012
Posts: 94

Re: [gunkiemike] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Self coached climber is available as a kindle book. Not sure if it was mentioned above and I missed it. You can just download to a laptop/ipad. Many of the videos are available, though perhaps not legally, on youtube. But buy the book so the authors make a bit of money.


DuckBeard


Feb 1, 2014, 7:57 PM
Post #40 of 42 (1098 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2010
Posts: 29

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

>tfw bad climbing technique :'(


juststrange


Feb 3, 2014, 12:06 PM
Post #41 of 42 (1029 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 31, 2004
Posts: 80

Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Two more bits.

Overhangs require core strength. If you push with your feet and your tummy is all floppy, none of that aid goes to your arms. Do more situps and supermen.

Also, straighten your arms out, straight elbows. Now you aren't pulling with your arms. Set your feet, twist your body at the hips - as you turn one shoulder in, it'll pull the other arm across your body. Now the hand on the wall-side of your body is closer to the wall. Grasp hold, unwind, move feet, repeat.


ballerfaller
Deleted

Feb 3, 2014, 1:28 PM
Post #42 of 42 (1009 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

Re: [marc801] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

a ot of people are telling you to get your feet higher. You should also try keeping your arms straight. When they are bent, you are using your muscles to hang onto the wall. When they are straight you use your skeleton.


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$14.36 (10% off)
$17.06 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)
$8.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook