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Partner cracklover


Apr 9, 2014, 6:52 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

Of course not - why should you be sorry? This is one of many questions you may ask yourself over the coming months and years. Here's another: "Why I cannot haz 5.12 now?" or "When did I become such a big fat fuck?"



source (for anyone interested in riffing on the theme):

GLaugh


Partner cracklover


Apr 9, 2014, 6:52 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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gotta perteckt


Partner cracklover


Apr 9, 2014, 6:54 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Hey it ain't perfect, but fuck it, I had to hurry for the PTFTW

GO


Partner cracklover


Apr 9, 2014, 6:55 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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And besides, I'm not here to entertain you. Much.

GO


lena_chita
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Apr 9, 2014, 7:08 PM
Post #102330 of 105309 (5183 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

In other news, I need to learn how not to eat and be hungary again for my annual spring weight loss. I'm a bit better off this year than last year and don't have as much weight to drop, but damn I love eating and damn I hate feeling hungry.

You need more friends like Banz. I am down 5 lb from Feb 14th.

But yeah, I hear you. I love food way too much. For me, the main thing these past few weeks was getting Heffe on board with the plan. He refrained from bringing me any chocolates, or ice cream, or Bailey's, since mid-Feb.

My downfall has always been snacking. I have very good discipline in the grocery store, and I am really good at not buying bad things. I am also pretty good at packing healthy food for lunch in reasonable portions. But if I am at home, and I have some chocolate-covered somethings, and I am reading a book, or watching a movie... ahh, that is a problem.

Seeing Banz's facebook status show he's lost what, 10 lbs in 2 months, makes me feel guilty. I know that I have way less extra weight to lose than he does, but I'm dreading trying to cut down 5-10lbs and I know it's going to take way longer.

he lost more like 25lb since beginning of Feb. But he also gained quite a bit, before he started losing.

And for him, he swings 5 lb up/down from day to day easily. I have not fluctuated more than 0.2 lb from weekly median since I started weighing regularly.

It is much harder to lose 5-10 lb if you are within 5-10 lb of your ideal weight than it is to lose 5-10 lb when you have 30-40 to lose.


lena_chita
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Apr 9, 2014, 7:13 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

Of course not - why should you be sorry? This is one of many questions you may ask yourself over the coming months and years. Here's another: "Why I cannot haz 5.12 now?" or "When did I become such a big fat fuck?"


I can haz 5,12 now, even with cheesecake. But I want to haz 5.13.
(Jack is coming to smack me upside the head now, I can hear him shaking his head all the way from here)


climbs4fun
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Apr 9, 2014, 8:21 PM
Post #102332 of 105309 (5171 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

In other news, I need to learn how not to eat and be hungary again for my annual spring weight loss. I'm a bit better off this year than last year and don't have as much weight to drop, but damn I love eating and damn I hate feeling hungry.

You need more friends like Banz. I am down 5 lb from Feb 14th.

But yeah, I hear you. I love food way too much. For me, the main thing these past few weeks was getting Heffe on board with the plan. He refrained from bringing me any chocolates, or ice cream, or Bailey's, since mid-Feb.

My downfall has always been snacking. I have very good discipline in the grocery store, and I am really good at not buying bad things. I am also pretty good at packing healthy food for lunch in reasonable portions. But if I am at home, and I have some chocolate-covered somethings, and I am reading a book, or watching a movie... ahh, that is a problem.

Seeing Banz's facebook status show he's lost what, 10 lbs in 2 months, makes me feel guilty. I know that I have way less extra weight to lose than he does, but I'm dreading trying to cut down 5-10lbs and I know it's going to take way longer.

mark it 55lbs for me. Sedentary jobs and asthma meds (steroids) blow


Partner camhead


Apr 9, 2014, 9:06 PM
Post #102333 of 105309 (5163 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

Oh! OH! DESSERT TAWK!

The other night at werk, I finished up a batch of peach jam, it had been stewing for a few hours, and a few unblended peach slices floated to the top. I scooped them out with a strainer, and put them in a bowl for some soupy peachy goodness. Then, I looked over at the cheesecake batter that I was working on, and had a great idea– scooped out a few spoonfuls of the batter, and drizzled it over the peaches. It was like peaches and cream, but better.

Then, I offered some to a certain hispanic (RACIST) chef who used to own a restaurant that everyone at the Gnu knows about. He took a bite, looked at me, and goes, "tastes better than virgin p____."

Tuphar!


Partner camhead


Apr 9, 2014, 9:10 PM
Post #102334 of 105309 (5162 views)
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

In other news, I need to learn how not to eat and be hungary again for my annual spring weight loss. I'm a bit better off this year than last year and don't have as much weight to drop, but damn I love eating and damn I hate feeling hungry.

You need more friends like Banz. I am down 5 lb from Feb 14th.

But yeah, I hear you. I love food way too much. For me, the main thing these past few weeks was getting Heffe on board with the plan. He refrained from bringing me any chocolates, or ice cream, or Bailey's, since mid-Feb.

My downfall has always been snacking. I have very good discipline in the grocery store, and I am really good at not buying bad things. I am also pretty good at packing healthy food for lunch in reasonable portions. But if I am at home, and I have some chocolate-covered somethings, and I am reading a book, or watching a movie... ahh, that is a problem.

Seeing Banz's facebook status show he's lost what, 10 lbs in 2 months, makes me feel guilty. I know that I have way less extra weight to lose than he does, but I'm dreading trying to cut down 5-10lbs and I know it's going to take way longer.

mark it 55lbs for me. Sedentary jobs and asthma meds (steroids) blow

Hovering around 160 right now, which means I've lost 8 lbs since winter's low(high)point, but haven't hit my high(low)point of low weight that I hit last summer, which was 152. I was climbing pretty well then, but I think the weight was too low, and mostly because of 1) lost muscle mass in the LisPaul thigh, and 2) neurotic bullshit resulting from the Big D.


Partner camhead


Apr 9, 2014, 9:16 PM
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[climbing tawk]Also[/climbing tawk], did not train as much this winter as I did when I had access to the gym, but am really psyched on still doing the obscure tard lines.

Went out yesterday with Wagner (anti-semite!) on the headphone, and TR-soloed a REALLY cool line that I may put a bit more work into. If ya'll know the NRG, it's the blank orange face that is climber's left and facing the Honeymooner ladders; one corner/arete system right of Quinsana Durp. Mikey headpointed it as a 13a tard line last fall; it's really cool crimpy reachy climbing, crux is a rightward dyno from one crimp to another, protected by equalized ballnuts, thena big rest jug, then TONS of runout OneTwo to the top. Big fall potential, but no decking chances I don't think.

Gonna TR it quite a bit more, and it needs some winter munge scrubbed off it, but I'm pretty psyched, especially since I'm a kinda facetard gumby still.


lena_chita
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Apr 10, 2014, 11:21 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
[climbing tawk]Also[/climbing tawk], did not train as much this winter as I did when I had access to the gym, but am really psyched on still doing the obscure tard lines.

Went out yesterday with Wagner (anti-semite!) on the headphone, and TR-soloed a REALLY cool line that I may put a bit more work into. If ya'll know the NRG, it's the blank orange face that is climber's left and facing the Honeymooner ladders; one corner/arete system right of Quinsana Durp. Mikey headpointed it as a 13a tard line last fall; it's really cool crimpy reachy climbing, crux is a rightward dyno from one crimp to another, protected by equalized ballnuts, thena big rest jug, then TONS of runout OneTwo to the top. Big fall potential, but no decking chances I don't think.

Gonna TR it quite a bit more, and it needs some winter munge scrubbed off it, but I'm pretty psyched, especially since I'm a kinda facetard gumby still.

With all of NRG at your disposal, your choice of line to work on is rather strange. But well, what else is new?


granite_grrl


Apr 10, 2014, 11:40 AM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet.

But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is!

And I am not sorry. Not a bit.

Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good!

In other news, I need to learn how not to eat and be hungary again for my annual spring weight loss. I'm a bit better off this year than last year and don't have as much weight to drop, but damn I love eating and damn I hate feeling hungry.

You need more friends like Banz. I am down 5 lb from Feb 14th.

But yeah, I hear you. I love food way too much. For me, the main thing these past few weeks was getting Heffe on board with the plan. He refrained from bringing me any chocolates, or ice cream, or Bailey's, since mid-Feb.

My downfall has always been snacking. I have very good discipline in the grocery store, and I am really good at not buying bad things. I am also pretty good at packing healthy food for lunch in reasonable portions. But if I am at home, and I have some chocolate-covered somethings, and I am reading a book, or watching a movie... ahh, that is a problem.

Seeing Banz's facebook status show he's lost what, 10 lbs in 2 months, makes me feel guilty. I know that I have way less extra weight to lose than he does, but I'm dreading trying to cut down 5-10lbs and I know it's going to take way longer.

mark it 55lbs for me. Sedentary jobs and asthma meds (steroids) blow


Sedentary jobs we can work with, it's the meds that will probably make it difficult.


snoopy138


Apr 10, 2014, 9:29 PM
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Australia report!

Well, the start of the Australia report; I'll probably just occasionally add days as I have time.

Flew out on a Friday night (myself, teh gf, 2xAgent, and LLL), got into Sydney on Sunday morning. Got our bags, did the customs/immigration bit. Discovered the Sydney->Hobart flight was not actually Qantas, but Jetstar instead, and had to pay $5.50/person to take the bus from the international terminal to the domestic terminal. Jetstar is somewhere between Spirit and Southwest for Australia. They noted that we could use the bathrooms free of charge.

Got into Hobart, picked up the klown kar, and drove back to teh Brit's place (with some of our baggage in the Brit's car) on the RONG side of the road. Many accidental windshield wipings ensued.

Six of us staying at teh brit's place for the weke (brit + wife, myself + gf, 2x, LLL). Wandered around Hobart, ate some seafood.

Next day we did some climbing at Mt. Wellington. Went to the Flange Buttress (not named after jak's bro The Flange, so far as I know). Warmed up on Neon God, pretty cool sport route. Crux was very thin move early on, after that it was all pretty reasonable mid-10 climbing, with the bolts getting more spaced towards the top. Then did Digitalis, a mostly carck-ish route with a thin traverse at the top out of the corner. Had to wait around on the P1 belay ledge for a bit because teh brit took forever to commit to the traverse (he and LLL had started up while we did Neon God). Followed that, then tried After Midnight. Onsighted the first half, but ran into some trouble at teh crux, with hard moves I couldn't figure out while potentially looking at a ledge fall. It was about time to get going anyway, so I tension traversed over to the anchors atop P1 of Pleasant Screams (described in the guide as "Tasmania's To Bolt or Not to Be"). Didn't have time to TR Pleasant Screams, but teh 2x cleaned up After Midnight. Headed back down, ate and drank. Teh GF was hanging out with teh Brit's wife during this time, checking out the Huon Valley, going to various sheep cheeseries and honey stores and what have you (apparently Tasmanian Leatherwood Honey is well known -- it turned out to be pretty tasty).


snoopy138


Apr 10, 2014, 9:52 PM
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pictures of climbing are from actual cameras and not available yet as far as I know. Here's teh Flange Buttress (above teh Brit's head):

https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...6649_267341035_n.jpg


snoopy138


Apr 10, 2014, 9:53 PM
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snoopy138 wrote:
pictures of climbing are from actual cameras and not available yet as far as I know. Here's teh Flange Buttress (above teh Brit's head):



Partner camhead


Apr 11, 2014, 12:16 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
pictures of climbing are from actual cameras and not available yet as far as I know. Here's teh Flange Buttress (above teh Brit's head):


Gneiss! Columnar basalt! Looks cool.


Partner camhead


Apr 11, 2014, 12:54 AM
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Second day solo Truh Ruhing the proj. Figured out the gear, I still need to get a blue slider nut, though. Did a lot of brushing and scrubbing, too. Rapped to the ground after tons of messing with moves and gear, and then managed to get the tredpoint. This kind of scares me, though, because now it means I have to do the route. The crux is still going to be hard, bad lockoff on a tiny crimp with no feet, and you have to slam in a red slider, THEN do a v7 dyno to another tiny crimp. Both of my hands have bleeding fingers right now.

Got to the top after the tredpoint, and found that I had totally core-shot my rope over a sharp edge. Not a big deal, it was an old rope, and none of the core strands broke, but was still a bit sketchy. I take it as the climbing gawds telling me to just sack up and lead the thing. That's gonna be scary.


snoopy138


Apr 11, 2014, 1:19 AM
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camhead wrote:
Second day solo Truh Ruhing the proj. Figured out the gear, I still need to get a blue slider nut, though. Did a lot of brushing and scrubbing, too. Rapped to the ground after tons of messing with moves and gear, and then managed to get the tredpoint. This kind of scares me, though, because now it means I have to do the route. The crux is still going to be hard, bad lockoff on a tiny crimp with no feet, and you have to slam in a red slider, THEN do a v7 dyno to another tiny crimp. Both of my hands have bleeding fingers right now.

Got to the top after the tredpoint, and found that I had totally core-shot my rope over a sharp edge. Not a big deal, it was an old rope, and none of the core strands broke, but was still a bit sketchy. I take it as the climbing gawds telling me to just sack up and lead the thing. That's gonna be scary.

so much for whatever lessons you claimed to have learned from teh lispaul injury.


snoopy138


Apr 11, 2014, 1:25 AM
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camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
pictures of climbing are from actual cameras and not available yet as far as I know. Here's teh Flange Buttress (above teh Brit's head):


Gneiss! Columnar basalt! Looks cool.

Yeah, they call it dolerite, which I just looked up and is the same thing as diabase or volcanic basalt.

It's pretty cool. Only did the one day there, though. The Tasman Peninsula sea stacks are similar rock, too. I don't think the crack lines are generally quite as pure as, say, the Trouser Trout, but it has pretty good face and arete climbing as well.


Partner camhead


Apr 11, 2014, 1:25 AM
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snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
Second day solo Truh Ruhing the proj. Figured out the gear, I still need to get a blue slider nut, though. Did a lot of brushing and scrubbing, too. Rapped to the ground after tons of messing with moves and gear, and then managed to get the tredpoint. This kind of scares me, though, because now it means I have to do the route. The crux is still going to be hard, bad lockoff on a tiny crimp with no feet, and you have to slam in a red slider, THEN do a v7 dyno to another tiny crimp. Both of my hands have bleeding fingers right now.

Got to the top after the tredpoint, and found that I had totally core-shot my rope over a sharp edge. Not a big deal, it was an old rope, and none of the core strands broke, but was still a bit sketchy. I take it as the climbing gawds telling me to just sack up and lead the thing. That's gonna be scary.

so much for whatever lessons you claimed to have learned from teh lispaul injury.

True. Fortunately, this route has no ledges for me to fall into.


granite_grrl


Apr 11, 2014, 12:16 PM
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So I just signed up for my first race.

Just a 9km trail race, but it should still be a good intro. Part of me would kinda like to train and do at least a half marathon, but then I realize that that's a lot of werk and I'd rather spend that time climbing.

Don't know if it was because it was finally because it's warming up, or because I'm actually getting faster, but I feel I rocked the interval run last night.


lena_chita
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Apr 11, 2014, 4:01 PM
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snoopy138 wrote:
Australia report!

Well, the start of the Australia report; I'll probably just occasionally add days as I have time.

Flew out on a Friday night (myself, teh gf, 2xAgent, and LLL), got into Sydney on Sunday morning. Got our bags, did the customs/immigration bit. Discovered the Sydney->Hobart flight was not actually Qantas, but Jetstar instead, and had to pay $5.50/person to take the bus from the international terminal to the domestic terminal. Jetstar is somewhere between Spirit and Southwest for Australia. They noted that we could use the bathrooms free of charge.

Got into Hobart, picked up the klown kar, and drove back to teh Brit's place (with some of our baggage in the Brit's car) on the RONG side of the road. Many accidental windshield wipings ensued.

Six of us staying at teh brit's place for the weke (brit + wife, myself + gf, 2x, LLL). Wandered around Hobart, ate some seafood.

Next day we did some climbing at Mt. Wellington. Went to the Flange Buttress (not named after jak's bro The Flange, so far as I know). Warmed up on Neon God, pretty cool sport route. Crux was very thin move early on, after that it was all pretty reasonable mid-10 climbing, with the bolts getting more spaced towards the top. Then did Digitalis, a mostly carck-ish route with a thin traverse at the top out of the corner. Had to wait around on the P1 belay ledge for a bit because teh brit took forever to commit to the traverse (he and LLL had started up while we did Neon God). Followed that, then tried After Midnight. Onsighted the first half, but ran into some trouble at teh crux, with hard moves I couldn't figure out while potentially looking at a ledge fall. It was about time to get going anyway, so I tension traversed over to the anchors atop P1 of Pleasant Screams (described in the guide as "Tasmania's To Bolt or Not to Be"). Didn't have time to TR Pleasant Screams, but teh 2x cleaned up After Midnight. Headed back down, ate and drank. Teh GF was hanging out with teh Brit's wife during this time, checking out the Huon Valley, going to various sheep cheeseries and honey stores and what have you (apparently Tasmanian Leatherwood Honey is well known -- it turned out to be pretty tasty).

The basalt columns look pretty cool! I wasn't following earlier, are you staying in the same place for the entire trip, or are you going to try to visit several locations?

Oh, and sheep cheeseries make me drool and swoon. Sheep's milk feta is TEH BEST!!! I remember one of our local stored here was doing a cheese tasting and they had this Australian feta that was something ridiculous like $10 for couple oz container. But OMG, was it good! Ohh, it was!


lena_chita
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Apr 11, 2014, 4:05 PM
Post #102348 of 105309 (5025 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Second day solo Truh Ruhing the proj. Figured out the gear, I still need to get a blue slider nut, though. Did a lot of brushing and scrubbing, too. Rapped to the ground after tons of messing with moves and gear, and then managed to get the tredpoint. This kind of scares me, though, because now it means I have to do the route. The crux is still going to be hard, bad lockoff on a tiny crimp with no feet, and you have to slam in a red slider, THEN do a v7 dyno to another tiny crimp. Both of my hands have bleeding fingers right now.

Got to the top after the tredpoint, and found that I had totally core-shot my rope over a sharp edge. Not a big deal, it was an old rope, and none of the core strands broke, but was still a bit sketchy. I take it as the climbing gawds telling me to just sack up and lead the thing. That's gonna be scary.

I have my doubts about your correct interpretation of the climbing god's messages. But it's your neck, and your lispaul.


caughtinside


Apr 11, 2014, 5:51 PM
Post #102349 of 105309 (5016 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
[climbing tawk]Also[/climbing tawk], did not train as much this winter as I did when I had access to the gym, but am really psyched on still doing the obscure tard lines.

Went out yesterday with Wagner (anti-semite!) on the headphone, and TR-soloed a REALLY cool line that I may put a bit more work into. If ya'll know the NRG, it's the blank orange face that is climber's left and facing the Honeymooner ladders; one corner/arete system right of Quinsana Durp. Mikey headpointed it as a 13a tard line last fall; it's really cool crimpy reachy climbing, crux is a rightward dyno from one crimp to another, protected by equalized ballnuts, thena big rest jug, then TONS of runout OneTwo to the top. Big fall potential, but no decking chances I don't think.

Gonna TR it quite a bit more, and it needs some winter munge scrubbed off it, but I'm pretty psyched, especially since I'm a kinda facetard gumby still.

With all of NRG at your disposal, your choice of line to work on is rather strange. But well, what else is new?

I read about it on mikey's blog and it sounded cool.

I tend to like routes that are dirty/new/out of the way/old/forgotten though.


caughtinside


Apr 11, 2014, 5:54 PM
Post #102350 of 105309 (5014 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Second day solo Truh Ruhing the proj. Figured out the gear, I still need to get a blue slider nut, though. Did a lot of brushing and scrubbing, too. Rapped to the ground after tons of messing with moves and gear, and then managed to get the tredpoint. This kind of scares me, though, because now it means I have to do the route. The crux is still going to be hard, bad lockoff on a tiny crimp with no feet, and you have to slam in a red slider, THEN do a v7 dyno to another tiny crimp. Both of my hands have bleeding fingers right now.

Got to the top after the tredpoint, and found that I had totally core-shot my rope over a sharp edge. Not a big deal, it was an old rope, and none of the core strands broke, but was still a bit sketchy. I take it as the climbing gawds telling me to just sack up and lead the thing. That's gonna be scary.

gotta pad those edges brah. rope bag or a grain tamer. or one of those spiroll things. worth investing in for the tr solo kit

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