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blueeyedclimber


Nov 14, 2010, 11:44 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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Took a 30 footer yesterday at Ragged. Had a piece pull and got caught about 5 feet from the deck. Phew!

Was exciting, but not something I want to make a habit out of.

I sent my second go and impressed a CT local for even getting back on it. That made it worth it. Cool

Josh


AntinJ


Nov 16, 2010, 4:08 AM
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Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped?


blueeyedclimber


Nov 16, 2010, 4:58 AM
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Re: [AntinJ] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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AntinJ wrote:
Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped?

Yes. In case you are following the flamefest, like I said in that thread, I have ripped gear twice. The first time, I kind of expected it. This time I didn't. What I think happened is that the cam may have rotated as I moved past it moving into a less ideal position. When I went back up the second time, I took more time checking out that placement, in addition to checking the one that caught me. I put a slight larger piece in the second time around. In my estimation, it fit better.

Josh


olderic


Nov 16, 2010, 6:35 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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You know Henry would never ever use cams. Of course this route was done long before cams - at least commercially available ones ever existed. Of course he could do things with hexes and opposed nuts that were amazing - although it was primarily his boldness that got him up things.


wonderwoman


Nov 16, 2010, 6:45 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
AntinJ wrote:
Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped?

Yes. In case you are following the flamefest, like I said in that thread, I have ripped gear twhrice.

1. Echo Crag (sprained ankle #2)
2. Squamish (me having a screaming fit over my knee)
3. Ragged Mountain

But who is counting? Angelic


blueeyedclimber


Nov 16, 2010, 9:12 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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wonderwoman wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
AntinJ wrote:
Nice work Josh - were you surprised that the gear ripped?

Yes. In case you are following the flamefest, like I said in that thread, I have ripped gear twhrice.

1. Echo Crag (sprained ankle #2)
2. Squamish (me having a screaming fit over my knee)
3. Ragged Mountain

But who is counting? Angelic

Oh, I don't count that first one because I was soloing and didn't know what the F I was doing. The way I look at it, it didn't come out because it was never really in.

Since I have learned to place gear and evaluate them, it has been exactly twice. Which is why I never trust my life to a single piece of gear.

But thanks for calling me out on line. Crazy

Josh


boymeetsrock


Nov 16, 2010, 9:17 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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^^^ WW512?


losbill


Nov 16, 2010, 2:37 PM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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Josh --- Glad your okay. Good job on getting back on it and getting it done. Kudos to Brooke for the catch! For the record, relative to the BS on the other thread, I also might be inclined to defer the belay for the second attempt after catching a 30 footer to within 5 feet of the ground.

I have taken 10 falls this year, forgot 2 early season falls in the earlier post, surpassing all falls taken in previous 6 years. Guess I have been a more than a bit bolder. With one exception, where I should have communicated better with my belayer, all have been pretty short.

Josh reminded me, somewhere in the other thread that I pretty quickly got bored with, that you never want just one piece between you and dire consequences. I try to adhere to that dictum pretty religiously. All my falls, with the one exception of a bolt, have been on pieces that were backed up by another piece. Haven't had a piece pull on me yet but I'm relatively early in my trad career. Thanks Josh for posting up and reinforcing a very crucial aspect of trad climbing. --- Bill


(This post was edited by losbill on Nov 16, 2010, 2:39 PM)


tks


Dec 6, 2010, 10:48 AM
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Re: [orangekyak] The MASS CLIMBERS thread [In reply to]
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Boy it's quiet around here! Anybody still climbing outside, or has everyone hung em up for the season?

Had a nice hour or two at Hammond on saturday, looking forward to heading up to Peabody in the next week or two to see those boulders. Anyone interested?


Tom


yikesbikes


Dec 6, 2010, 10:59 AM
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Re: [tks] The MASS CLIMBERS thread [In reply to]
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Didn't know there were boulders in Peabody! Any info on location and ratings? Are they listed in Boston Rocks? I'd like to check them out.


tks


Dec 6, 2010, 11:23 AM
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Lynn Woods


yikesbikes


Dec 6, 2010, 11:50 AM
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Great, thanks. Finding a spattering of info online so far. Are there enough climbs under V3/4 to justify a trip out there if that's all I'm climbing?


coldweather


Dec 14, 2010, 4:13 PM
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Re: [losbill] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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bet you can't at crow hill was that on gear


coldweather


Dec 14, 2010, 4:15 PM
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losbill


Dec 20, 2010, 8:34 PM
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Re: [coldweather] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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Just to clarify Mr. Coldweather's somewhat wise guy comment, which was directed at me. Bet'ca Can't is a 10 foot high boulder problem crack at Crow Hill. A few years ago, on my first day out after recovering from a foot fracture, I blew the exit move, fell and severely twisted my right ankle. Same foot as the fracture. Put me out of commission for another 3 or 4 weeks. Duh!!!!! No gear pulled since no gear was involved.


coldweather


Dec 29, 2010, 5:15 PM
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Re: [losbill] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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anyone climbing on the 1st crow or farley


losbill


Dec 30, 2010, 5:51 AM
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Re: [coldweather] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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Right now planning on Sunday. Suggested to partner Saturday instead. I will call you when I hear back from him.


losbill


Dec 30, 2010, 6:57 AM
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Hey Jake - Can you get out Sunday at LW? --- Bill


AntinJ


Dec 30, 2010, 7:10 AM
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Now this is what I like to see! NE Climbing @ it's finest. I guess you guys forgot its Ice season!

Have fun.

Jason


losbill


Dec 30, 2010, 7:17 AM
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Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays!

Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it.

Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill


jakedatc


Dec 30, 2010, 8:38 AM
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losbill wrote:
Hey Jake - Can you get out Sunday at LW? --- Bill

Bill if it doesn't rain I could be down for that. 40% chance at the moment but its a few days off.


AntinJ


Dec 30, 2010, 8:52 AM
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losbill wrote:
Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays!

Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it.

Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill
I did hear from Gabe! Thanks for connecting us.

J


blueeyedclimber


Dec 30, 2010, 7:54 PM
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Re: [AntinJ] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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AntinJ wrote:
losbill wrote:
Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays!

Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it.

Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill
I did hear from Gabe! Thanks for connecting us.

J

You're welcome Wink

Josh


grantjk


Dec 30, 2010, 8:31 PM
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I just made plans to be at Farley in the morning on New Years Day, as long as the forecast doesn't change. I'm sure we'll be on the sunniest walls we can find. Jason, you can look for ice on the upper tiers if you feel the need, but it looks like a rock climbing day to me!

Grant


losbill


Dec 31, 2010, 5:11 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Report? [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
AntinJ wrote:
losbill wrote:
Hey Jason -- Happy Holidays!

Regarding ice I guess I would rather be skiing on it, this is the northeast after all, than climbing up it.

Did you ever hear from Gabe? If not, Gabe drop Jason a PM, he is relocating out your way. --- Bill
I did hear from Gabe! Thanks for connecting us.

J

You're welcome Wink

Josh
It was an abbreviated 6 degrees of separation effort!

Hey Grant just might see you Saturday. Given up on Sunday due to forecast. Waiting to hear back from someone before we decide where we are heading.

Jake are you available on Saturday for LW instead of Sunday? Any interest in coming up to Farley for bouldering/clipping bolts?

Bill

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