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epic_ed
Aug 26, 2003, 6:11 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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Haha! Who said anything about you? :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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dsafanda
Aug 26, 2003, 6:20 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
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Damn. I guess I do indeed need to register for the "I bailed off the Prow Club." What's the Carl Marx quote?..."I wouldn't want to be a part of any club that would have me as a member." That seems fitting. The truth is that I'm not even sure why I bailed. On Sunday my partner and I hiked up with just enough gear to fix the first two pitches. The plan was to head back up on Monday with the haulbag and continue to the top. We were a bit worried about the heat but the truth is that absolutely everything went our way and we ran out of any good excuse to bail. We got up there and were the only ones there. We climbed the first two pitches faster than we thought we would. It was hot but there was a breeze and once we got off the ground it really wasn't bad at all. P2 was a bit easier than I was expecting. Everything was going to plan. Nevertheless, we sat at the anchors on top of p2 for what must have been a half hour trying to decide what to do. I was a bit stressed about missing another couple days of work and not feeling very commited. If my partner had just spoke up and said "C'mon let's send this sucker!" I would have rallied for sure but he seemed to be thinking the exact same thing. That didn't make for much of a spark in the motivation department. At some point someone mentioned just doing some casual free climbing on Monday and heading home early. Hmmm...minute by minute that sounded much better than hiking back up with the pig and hauling water. What candy asses! I'm probably going to really regret this one. I already am. Next time I'm bringing everything up in one load and hauling from p1. No fixing dam it!! If we had all of our stuff at the top of p2 we would have kept going and slept at the top of p3. Hell we had plently of time to get to the top of p4 or beyond. At that point bailing wouldn't have been such an easy and attaractive alternative. So, there you have it...the lamest non reason for bailing you've ever heard. I'm going to have to give it another shot. Aid climbing is definitely 99% mental. You have to want it! The funny thing is that the next day I was probably more scared on a wee bit of 5.8 run out than I was hanging on copperheads a few hundred feet off the deck. Now I'm back at work and thinking I could be on the Column enjoying spectacular views of Half Dome. Definitely screws with your head!
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rockitjeff
Aug 30, 2003, 2:41 AM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Jul 13, 2002
Posts: 143
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I am a member of the club… Spring ’85. . hit and run trip; drive from LA. Get to Camp 4 in the dark. Sleep in the dirt. Awake to one Walt Shipley walking past our sleeping bags.. (hey Walt!). Me and Dave Brukman grab b’fast at the cafeteria, then head out. Pitch one Bruckman climbs Jo-Jo. He struggled a tad, even though by then I think he’d climbed Astroman with Joe Hedge? Sometimes Dave’s feet just didn’t think straight. Pitch 2 back in ’85 actually requires some nailing. Wish I had sawed off angles…. .. clipped some ratty fixed rurps up higher. Was that the crux pitch? Loving life hanging under that roof at the belay.... then Brukman pulls a nut on pitch 3 and takes a BIG whipper. He claims I dropped him (too much slack in the rope?). He banged his ankle pretty good.. swoll up in the night.. . Brukman sleeps on that rocky bivy; I hang off a portaledge. All is groovy.. until Awake to a seriously persistent drizzle. This is May, not too cold, but… wet. Wet wet wet. And not looking to likely to clear up. Damn. Me and Brukman had both done enough walls. Bailing was not in our psyche, but wet, miserable and dangerous not either. So down down down.. . Stayed cold and wet all day. I am bored so I stroll up to the base of the Captain. Walk over to the Zodiac. There I found the only dry rock in the valley.. and four climbers huddled around a small camp fire. Eric Zschiesche I’d met once at JT. I had not yet met Bob Yoho. The other 2 guys I knew from bouldering at Stoney Point. What was wild is all 3 of the So Cal Boys were MD’s (one- Chris? Was a Forensic Pathologist, so he carved up stiffs for fun and profit). Zschiesche leads the 5.12 off width flake to the left of Zodiac (what’s it called… Blank Out? .. forget). Sets up a TR. The So Cal boys all fire it via laybacking the flake (makes it 5.11). I had nuthin.. no shoes, harness or chalk bag, but the boys equip me, and I layback for all I am worth, crank hard at the crux reach and actually fire off a Valley 5.11. Kind of cool considering I’d started my day bailing off a wall in the rain. Back then Yoho was a bit of a controversial and much hated climber. However, we began a friendship centered around trail running and road biking that lasts to this day. Yoho you big frickin asswipe. I am amazed you are yet not on rc.com to take the slander that is due you.
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catra
Aug 30, 2003, 3:49 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 84
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Great story...Thanks for sharing.. Onelung, I regret the day we all rapped off El Cap...... I have the battle scar that shows why you shouldn't rap.... I learned it's easier to go up then come down....... I will send El Cap with my sweety in October... Cheers, Catra http://www.rocknrun.net
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rcaret
Aug 30, 2003, 4:00 AM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 227
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Enjoyed the trip report , Better luck next trip ( hope to see ya give it another try )
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