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Boxcar Rocks, PA Do you know anything about it?
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gblauer
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Sep 30, 2003, 12:40 PM
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Boxcar Rocks, PA Do you know anything about it?  (North_America: United_States: Pennsylvania: Southeastern_Region: Boxcar_Rocks__aka_Chinese_Wall_)
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Does anyone know anything about Boxcar Rocks in Pine Grove, PA? Do you climb there regularly? Have you climbed the whale?


teagueblue


Sep 30, 2003, 12:45 PM
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Rob (roclimb) had pictures at one of his slideshows and they looked really cool. Pine Grove is pretty far for me to travel though.


gblauer
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Sep 30, 2003, 12:53 PM
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I was there last Sunday...the formations were cool and the climbing was fun. It actually looks like it has potential for a PA gathering. (I have to check camping etc...It is State game land). Just wondering if many people climb there and if the routes are documented. I added stuff to the database under temporary names until I can get my hands on documentation.


dontfall


Sep 30, 2003, 12:54 PM
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Lets see here. I know rwaltermyer knows alot about Boxcar Rocks. He would be the person to speak to about it, thats what I would do. He will see this pm of mine and hopefully won't get mad being that I used him as a reference online. Me in the other hand, I know nothing about this crag but would like to check it out. Gail, we should hook up for this place and check it out. Whatda say?


rwaltermyer


Sep 30, 2003, 12:56 PM
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Gail,
I can give you the scope. Thats the closest climbing I have in my neck of the woods. One way to describe it: pebble conglomerate. Imagine tons of gardening stones concreted onto the rock. Thats what it is; if you'd ever bouldering at the wall of infinity, its the same way (but more extreme.)

The climbing is about 40-45 ft. Mostly TR, although I guess you could trad lead (but those pebbles could pop at any minute) the same w/ sport possibility (do you trust drillling thru those)...

But there is an afternoon's worth of routes there if you stay creative and motivated. Again, we;re in PA, you know what to expect: not much.

http://newenglandbouldering.com/covers/boxrocks.jpg
this is the arete to the wall, which continues to the right


roclimb


Sep 30, 2003, 12:57 PM
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The whale formation at Boxcar has a nice 5.6 on it called Moby Neil. The gear isn't that great but there is a fixed anchor on it. There are nice cracks, also in the 5.7 to 5.8 range. If need any specific names grades there just let me know. The bouldering there is fantastic!
~Rob


teagueblue


Sep 30, 2003, 12:58 PM
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I thought I saw a thread on them one time where someone mentioned (Randy?) that there was very heavy undergrowth around the rocks. Am I thinking of the same place?

ChuckH


rwaltermyer


Sep 30, 2003, 1:01 PM
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undergrowth: not that bad.

to rob: did you realize how long the bouldering possibilites extend? the "wall" continues for almost three miles. (However, I discovered this not by walking along side the wall, but biking the mining trail which wraps around and runs parallel.) Not sure if its the exact same band or not, nonetheless, there is a LOT more rock up there to find cool lines.


rwaltermyer


Sep 30, 2003, 1:03 PM
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WOW:
8 posts in twenty minutes...check it out
7:40
7:45
7:53
7:54
7:56
7:57
7:58
8:01

That's awesome!


gblauer
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Sep 30, 2003, 1:08 PM
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Rob...I will post the route and grades if you send them to me. I thought the place was cool, would like to go back and check out more climbs. We only had time for 2 climbs.


rwaltermyer


Sep 30, 2003, 1:10 PM
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gail:
you're in my territory: good 'ol lebanon Counnnnnty

hhahaha
i live 15 minutes from boxcar (when i'm not in skool)


gblauer
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Sep 30, 2003, 1:11 PM
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Randy, I was there on Sunday with Perry Allen (he lives 30 miles from there). Do you know Perry?


gemiller


Sep 30, 2003, 1:42 PM
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Sounds like I really need to get directions there.. can anyone give me directions from fredericksburg, or a way to use mapquest? etc... Thanks.


gblauer
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Sep 30, 2003, 1:51 PM
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Start: Fredericksburg, Lebanon, Pennsylvania, United States
End: Gold Mine Rd, Halifax, PA 17032
Total Distance: 14.1 Miles
Estimated Total Time: 38 minutes

Directions Miles Map
Start: Depart Fredericksburg, Lebanon, Pennsylvania, United States on Doe Alley (North) < 0.1
1: Bear LEFT (West) onto (E) Main St 1.1


2: Bear RIGHT (West) onto Lickdale Rd 3.4
3: Turn RIGHT (North) onto SR-1001 2.8


4: Bear RIGHT (North) onto SR-443 1.6
5: Bear LEFT (North) onto Gold Mine Rd 5.1


End: Arrive Gold Mine Rd, Halifax, PA 17032


gemiller


Sep 30, 2003, 2:05 PM
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I'll have to map it out on a roadmap, and in reply to your pm, yes I have school. I am in a programming in VB.NET 3hour class and I am so far ahead of them, like 250 pages that I just sit back and rest sometimes...


rwaltermyer


Sep 30, 2003, 3:17 PM
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hang on.

Greg, its only 10-15 minutes to Boxcar.

I just posted Lat. Long. in the Dbase....that should be sufficient....including my directions.


gemiller


Oct 1, 2003, 1:27 AM
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But what does lat, long do for me? I don't have a gps unfortunately.


rwaltermyer


Oct 1, 2003, 1:39 AM
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click on it...it'll take you to topozone.com so you can figure out where the climbing is.


gemiller


Oct 1, 2003, 11:58 AM
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Ahhhh! Thats kinda cool!


rwaltermyer


Oct 1, 2003, 12:03 PM
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Gail: Did you use the two old shuts at the top to climb the one route (supposedly an 11)? I think there are a few bolts on the way up too.

and like you said, I usually take big lengths of static, because unless you bring a trad rack, TRing there is a bit of an adventure.

randy


gblauer
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Oct 1, 2003, 12:30 PM
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Randy, No we did not use the shuts. We used static line and set up an anchor on the opposite side of the rock. It worked very well. WOuld love to have a bolting party...what do you think?


rwaltermyer


Oct 1, 2003, 12:42 PM
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oh definitely...but (not having ANY experience in bolting), would you trust the nature of the rock (drilling into pebbles). But atleast putting in some bomber shuts up top would be nice.

[edit]
also, were the directions ok? did you use them from the dbase?
[/edit]

randy


gblauer
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Oct 1, 2003, 12:52 PM
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Randy, we followed Perry Allen in. Although i think your directions are fine. Mitchal knows how to bolt...yeah the pebbles could be a problem.

Gail
PS where are youy climbing this weekend?


gemiller


Oct 1, 2003, 12:58 PM
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If anyone would be willing to meet me there one sunday soon, I would appreciate it if you could show me how to use all the different types of equipment and anchor stuff, etc. Like I said before I'm really new and I went to a gym and loved it. All I have for equipment so far is a package I got off ebay, a harness, a locking screw gate biner, SBGII Belay/Rappel Device, but I have a little more money to get some stuff... But right now unfortunately I have to send out 250 for a tank for my paintball gun.. But anyhoo, October 12 was the day I was hoping for. My girlfriend also is getting started in climbing, well she kinda got me into it :) so she might come too..


roclimb


Oct 1, 2003, 1:25 PM
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Randy-Thats a good tip to take the road that parallels the rock. It gets a little vegitated the farther down the ridge you go. Yes it is the same ridge for 3-miles. I developed a lot of boulder problems all the way down to the reservoir some years back.

That is an old photo I took that you posted. It s a picture of a highball prob called One Man's Thimble, it tops out on Moby Neil. Where did you get a hold of that?

You guys know there is a sister area to boxcar rocks that a few miles away right?

~Rob


gblauer
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Oct 1, 2003, 2:20 PM
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No...we don't know about the sister area...beta?


rwaltermyer


Oct 1, 2003, 2:22 PM
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In reply to:
You guys know there is a sister area to boxcar rocks that a few miles away right?

~Rob

Rob, you never cease to amaze me. NO! Randy Ross mentioned something about it once. How is the bouldering as you continue beyond the main climbing??

And the pict...via NEB.com


jkarns


Oct 1, 2003, 2:45 PM
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I never realized a backwoods Pennsylvania climbing area could generate so many messages!!

But back to the topic...
I snowshoed out there this winter to scout out the place. A lot of rock, yes, but I didn't see anything that really looked to be of that great of quality. Anything steep? Both the routes and boulder probs looked to be generally less than vertical. Also I didn't see many boulder problems that looked like quality, natural, independent lines. Granted I was only tromping around up there for a few hours in three foot snow...

Is it worth a better look? Those of you who have spent time climbing up there, how does it compare to other gems in the area?


rwaltermyer


Oct 1, 2003, 2:48 PM
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In reply to:
Is it worth a better look? Those of you who have spent time climbing up there, how does it compare to other gems in the area?

are we talking about the same Pennsylvania? The main wall is definitely vertical. However, if you only looked at the area from the side which you initially see it (when you come up the trail), it wouldn't look worth while. The climbing occurs on the back side of the rocks (from when you enter on the trail).

randy


roclimb


Oct 2, 2003, 2:06 AM
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Randy,
The bouldering past the main spots are GREAT! Decent variety also. The one sister area has overhanging pebbles like MAple Canyon in Utah. With difficult overhanging sport routes up to 5.12+ on the same lovely Boxcar esque pebbles.
~Rob


rwaltermyer


Oct 2, 2003, 3:43 AM
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In reply to:
Randy,
The bouldering past the main spots are GREAT! Decent variety also. The one sister area has overhanging pebbles like MAple Canyon in Utah. With difficult overhanging sport routes up to 5.12+ on the same lovely Boxcar esque pebbles.
~Rob

BOLTED?


roclimb


Oct 2, 2003, 2:51 PM
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Yes there are a few bolted lines there. Im looking to get down that way next week sometime. If I can find someone to climb with.
~Rob


climbinganne


Oct 2, 2003, 3:52 PM
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what day rob???

PM me please!


joel_gibbel


Oct 6, 2003, 2:37 PM
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This thread is great, finally some publicity about my beloved local crag. Then again, maybe publicity is not good. I'll have to share it more. I'd love to meet up with some of you guys there (especially Rob to find out about this bolted "sister" area). This weekend would be great (October 11-12). Who's in and what time?

Joel


gblauer
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Oct 6, 2003, 2:41 PM
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Joel...very tempting...but...Mitchal and I are headed to Glen Gary WV...perhaps another time...


rwaltermyer


Oct 6, 2003, 8:14 PM
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Joel (I think I climbed w/ ya at birdsboro)...

let me know if others show some interest. I may be headed home this weekend. Yes, that "sister area" sounds enticing.

Have you ever ventured down beyond the obvious climbing area?

randy


shortcircuit


Oct 7, 2003, 1:04 AM
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Perry, and I climbed on Sunday (10/5). It was my first time at Boxcar Rocks. What an interesting formation, not to mention the climbing.

The rock is great to climb on and we had a great time.

Plenty of non-climbers around though. We started to get concerned about the spectators we were getting. There are a lot of whacko, "I'll just lean over the edge for a peek", folks.

Anybody else feel that you gotta be real particular about placing gear in this stuff. The blobs of quartz are nice for placing gear, but if you ain't careful they could pop loose, and the base rock tends to be a bit soft. The placements are there, you just gotta take the time to make sure they are solid.


roclimb


Oct 7, 2003, 2:44 AM
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Shortsurcuit,
It says you are from topton. I know some GREAT bouldering right in topton. You climb there?
~Rob


shortcircuit


Oct 8, 2003, 2:13 AM
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I've lived in Topton for 42 years now, climbing for about the last 5, but I ain't never done no bouldering round here.

However your post has gotten me extremely interested, and thinking.

There is a place I remember as a kid we used to call "The Big Rock". Can't recall how to get there, cause it's been many moons since I was there, but I do remember that it is near one of the power lines in the area.

Any short explaination of where you have in mind and I am sure I can find it.

Noticed in your profile that you are a Gunkster as well. It is not uncommon for 3 of us to head for the Gunks for a weekend, and a 4th would be welcome as we could climb as 2 teams which would allow us to cover more climbs per visit. We tend to stick to 5.5 to 5.9 climbs. Let me know if you ever need a parner!


roclimb


Oct 8, 2003, 3:01 PM
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The bouldering is actually really good. its a cross between Emmaus and Haycock if you have been there. Its not near a power line though. Its a group of pretty high large boulders behind some houses basically. My friend who lived in topton until about two months ago had permission to access the boulders. I'll ask him if it is still ok.

PM me if you are going to the Gunk's. I love hitting up that spot.
~Rob


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